Cable keeps dropping my connection..

[Deleted member 88227]

Got this in the logs on the cable modem.

Mar 02 2013 03:12:18 	6-Notice 	N/A 	MDD Recovery following MDD Loss;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:11:13 	5-Warning 	T202.0 	Lost MDD Timeout;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:11:13 	5-Warning 	N/A 	DS Partial Service Fallback: MDD Lost-> CM in DOCSIS 3.0 Recovery Mode ;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:08:14 	6-Notice 	N/A 	MDD Recovery following MDD Loss;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:07:31 	5-Warning 	T202.0 	Lost MDD Timeout;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:07:31 	5-Warning 	N/A 	DS Partial Service Fallback: MDD Lost-> CM in DOCSIS 3.0 Recovery Mode ;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:06:22 	6-Notice 	N/A 	MDD Recovery following MDD Loss;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:05:54 	5-Warning 	T202.0 	Lost MDD Timeout;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:05:54 	5-Warning 	N/A 	DS Partial Service Fallback: MDD Lost-> CM in DOCSIS 3.0 Recovery Mode ;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:05:29 	6-Notice 	N/A 	MDD Recovery following MDD Loss;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:05:29 	5-Warning 	T202.0 	Lost MDD Timeout;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:05:29 	5-Warning 	N/A 	DS Partial Service Fallback: MDD Lost-> CM in DOCSIS 3.0 Recovery Mode ;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:01:50 	6-Notice 	N/A 	MDD Recovery following MDD Loss;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:01:45 	5-Warning 	T202.0 	Lost MDD Timeout;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 03:01:45 	5-Warning 	N/A 	DS Partial Service Fallback: MDD Lost-> CM in DOCSIS 3.0 Recovery Mode ;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 02:58:26 	6-Notice 	N/A 	MDD Recovery following MDD Loss;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 02:57:45 	5-Warning 	T202.0 	Lost MDD Timeout;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 02:57:45 	5-Warning 	N/A 	DS Partial Service Fallback: MDD Lost-> CM in DOCSIS 3.0 Recovery Mode ;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 02:56:06 	6-Notice 	N/A 	MDD Recovery following MDD Loss;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;
Mar 02 2013 02:55:47 	5-Warning 	T202.0 	Lost MDD Timeout;CM-MAC=38:6b:bb:7f:7c:bf;CMTS-MAC=00:26:99:8a:99:9e;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0;

Gonna be calling them if this keeps up. However, I'd like to know what is going on if anyone could look at those logs and tell me. My signals look good on the modem I think.

Downstream
Signal to Noise Ratio: 37, 37, 38, 37 dB
Downstream Modulation: QAM256
Power Level: 0,0,0,0 dBmV

Upstream
Power Level 33 dBmV

Currently trying to upload ~2.3GB worth of Left 4 Dead 2 campaigns and it's really slowing it down when it keeps disconnecting me.

 

[p11]

How direct is your incoming line to your modem? (eg. how many splitters?)

Could just a be a modem on its way out as well.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

There are two, two way splitters between the modem and the line feed to the house. The modem is brand new. I bought it last month, its a Motorola SB6141. Both the splitters appear to be 1Ghz splitters. 5 - 1002 mhz is written on them, Extreme is the brand.

 

[p11]

Try eliminating the last splitter, does your modem function as a router as well? If so, throw it in bridge mode and direct connect to it. If your connection stills drops its an issue with your ISP.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Try eliminating the last splitter, does your modem function as a router as well? If so, throw it in bridge mode and direct connect to it. If your connection stills drops its an issue with your ISP.

I have noticed that it seems to only drop the connection during heavy uploads.

If I max out my upload, connection tends to drop. Also the rest of my Internet connection seems to stop. For example, when I am uploading GB worth of data to my server in large files, teamspeak will drop it's connection. If I throttle that upload using Filezila's built in bandwidth limits and set it to ~75% of the upload speed I see no issues.

 

[p11]

I have noticed that it seems to only drop the connection during heavy uploads.

If I max out my upload, connection tends to drop. Also the rest of my Internet connection seems to stop. For example, when I am uploading GB worth of data to my server in large files, teamspeak will drop it's connection. If I throttle that upload using Filezila's built in bandwidth limits and set it to ~75% of the upload speed I see no issues.

Sounds pretty normal, when your upload connection is fully saturated it makes it impossible for your modem to send out any other data. Typically it wont cause a complete disconnect but it will make things come to a complete halt. Might just be best to limit your upload speed and see if that alleviates your problem.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Sounds pretty normal, when your upload connection is fully saturated it makes it impossible for your modem to send out any other data. Typically it wont cause a complete disconnect but it will make things come to a complete halt. Might just be best to limit your upload speed and see if that alleviates your problem.

This is what I am currently doing, seeing if that changes.

I will also make a note that my TV has distorted images sometimes when I am watching TV on my HTPC. The TV tuner is on the other end of that splitter.

Due to recommendations from a thread I started in the HTPC forum, I'm going to install an amplifier to the line outside to see if that alleviates the issue.

I was mostly just wondering about the numbers reporting on my cable modem. Curious to know if they were in the right range and if a cable modem can accurately record that. If so, I want to see what kind of improvement I will see using the amp.

 

[p11]

This is what I am currently doing, seeing if that changes.

I will also make a note that my TV has distorted images sometimes when I am watching TV on my HTPC. The TV tuner is on the other end of that splitter.

Due to recommendations from a thread I started in the HTPC forum, I'm going to install an amplifier to the line outside to see if that alleviates the issue.

I was mostly just wondering about the numbers reporting on my cable modem. Curious to know if they were in the right range and if a cable modem can accurately record that. If so, I want to see what kind of improvement I will see using the amp.

Strange because your numbers look great, especially your downstream power levels (almost too perfect).

What type of coax cabling do you have in your home? Are all the end connections compression fittings or crimp on?

If you do buy a splitter, buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Signal-Booster-1-Port-Amplifier/dp/B003T2RY7I/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_1

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Well don't get me wrong. I get great speeds when it works like it should which is most of the time. I'm provisioned for a 10 Mbps connection, yet I usually get 12 Mbps up to 13 Mbps regularly.

The ends are all, I have no idea. What does a compression fitting look like? They are most likely just walmart specials. I can take pictures of them if you can tell by that.

This is the splitter/amp I am getting.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EKCGT8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Complete with the end caps and an inline power adapter so I can run the power over the coax cable, so I don't have to run any separate lines to it.

 

[p11]

Well don't get me wrong. I get great speeds when it works like it should which is most of the time. I'm provisioned for a 10 Mbps connection, yet I usually get 12 Mbps up to 13 Mbps regularly.

The ends are all, I have no idea. What does a compression fitting look like? They are most likely just walmart specials. I can take pictures of them if you can tell by that.

This is the splitter/amp I am getting.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EKCGT8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Complete with the end caps and an inline power adapter so I can run the power over the coax cable, so I don't have to run any separate lines to it.

Truthfully, I dont think the amp will fix anything based on your signal levels. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try though since you are experiencing other issues on your tuner card.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Truthfully, I dont think the amp will fix anything based on your signal levels. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try though since you are experiencing other issues on your tuner card.

Well now that I know my signal levels are as good as you say they are, I don't think it will help the cable connection much either. Hopefully it helps with the TV signal though.

I just really want to do research on this before I call them; since I'm not using an "officially supported cable modem" I fear they'll try to give me the run around on it. Had similar issues with my TV Tuner when getting a cable card. Eventually I just told them it's a damn Tivo and it got what I needed. (Some channels I was supposed to get I wasn't subscribed to, so when I told them I wasn't getting those channels they asked what kind of device I'm using, when I told them exactly they automatically blamed that. When I called back, talked to a different person, told them it was a Tivo, pretended to go through the setup they recited off the screen they was reading, they finally looked and seen that it was on their end and set me up with them.)

 

[Ehren8879]

What modem are you using? Is it docsis 3.0

If you're only maxing your upload and not trying to download, does the upload keep going?

 

[Deleted member 88227]

What modem are you using? Is it docsis 3.0

If you're only maxing your upload and not trying to download, does the upload keep going?

Motorola SB6141, not sure of a faster modem.

The only time the uploading stops is when the connection gets dropped. When that happens, the uploading pauses itself. If it takes too long for the connection to establish, then the uploads get flagged as completed and I have to resume them manually.

 

[Ehren8879]

Motorola SB6141, not sure of a faster modem.

The only time the uploading stops is when the connection gets dropped. When that happens, the uploading pauses itself. If it takes too long for the connection to establish, then the uploads get flagged as completed and I have to resume them manually.

I'm my experience D3.0 modems may be more sensitive to traffic stability during periods of max upload qos.You may want to ask your ISP if you are experiencing forward error correction issues, or any, upstream issues.

It's a stretch, but if your ISP is relatively new to docsis 3.0 they may still be using an old feature on their CMTS called rate-adapt. Rate adapt caused some of our customers issues like the one you're experiencing. Good luck talking to somebody at the ISP that knows the config though .

Who's your ISP?

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Cable One.

I do believe they are new to D3.0, they haven't had it that long. In fact, I don't even have their 50M plan because it comes with a 100GB monthly cap, my current plan 10M has a 250GB monthly cap; I've gone over it a few months before doing entire server backups of my remote server and they haven't said anything to me about it.

If I continue to experience the problem, I will see about talking to one of their high level technicians; I've been forwarded to them before to talk with them directly about issues I've had in the past they've resolved, so maybe now that I have some background I could talk to them about it on a more technical level to get that high level tech.

 

[LostStorm]

I have one and you shouldnt hook it to your modem, specially amp. port on it. I try alot things to fix my service over the years. Depending on your isp, have them check connection inside and outside.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

You mean I should not hook the amp to modem? What about the TV Tuner?

 

[LostStorm]

No amp to modem, yes to tv turner. At least after four TWC techs came to my house is what I running with now.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Hmm didn't know you can't put an amp on the line going to the modem...

 

[bds1904]

i had that modem with comcast and had the same problem. tech came out and swapped the modem right away. signal levels were about the same as yours too.

the tech said that they weren't giving those modems out to customers anymore because of a firmware issue that motorola couldn't/wouldn't fix that caused random disconnects on certain types of neighborhood nodes.

 

[valve1138]

Hmm didn't know you can't put an amp on the line going to the modem...

It depends on the amp The one you bought has the return path for modems, Thats why I recommended it, and it works great with my modem hooked up to it btw.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

It depends on the amp The one you bought has the return path for modems, Thats why I recommended it, and it works great with my modem hooked up to it btw.

Thanks for verifying that for me. I've been sitting here researching it all morning trying to figure it out before I went back to the other thread about it.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Got it all hooked up. Power level across the channels are now reading:

7 dBmV 6 dBmV 6 dBmV 7 dBmV

Previous readings were 0.

Now to see if it fixes the issue with the TV Tuner and in the process helps with my cable disconnects.

Additionally, I need to redo the cable inside where the splitter in the house are being used. The cables are all so long and one of them I'm using is a "slip" on cable and it seems to be very thin overall, very, very flexible. Gonna order some shorter cables since all the hardware (except the cable modem) is literally right next to one another. Thinking something around 1' cables should provide enough, just gotta make sure it doesn't crimp them up.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Just realized that the upstream power level went up to 37 dBmV as well from the 33 dBmV that it was.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Think I might have some noise problems. Check out what I've discovered.

Downstream Channel ID: 237
Frequency: 543000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio 36 dB
Downstream Modulation QAM256
Power Level: 7 dBmV

Downstream Channel ID: 238
Frequency: 549000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio 30 dB
Downstream Modulation QAM256
Power Level: 7 dBmV

Downstream Channel ID: 239
Frequency: 555000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio 36 dB
Downstream Modulation QAM256
Power Level: 7 dBmV

Downstream Channel ID: 240
Frequency: 561000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio 36 dB
Downstream Modulation QAM256
Power Level: 7 dBmV

Notice channel 238 SNR down to 30 dB?

Then take a look at the Signal Stats (Codewords)

Channel ID			237 		238 		239 		240 
Total Unerrored Codewords	99964665 	69056924 	99093284 	99101997 
Total Correctable Codewords	19 		766365 		29 		29 
Total Uncorrectable Codewords	3639 		1512197 	572 		506

Shows a huge spike in uncorrectable codewords on channel 238, as well as a higher than normal correctable codewords on the same channel. Refreshing the page I've seen it drop as low as 28 dB SNR on that channel and the Total Uncorrectable Codewords just keep getting higher and higher; currently at 5775297 uncorrected and corrected 2616497, the other channels are showing almost no change. The SNR is all over the place though, from 28 dB to 34 dB; and at least once it was dropped off the page completely (no stats for just channel 238)

Now I just need to figure out what's causing the noise problems. Any suggestions?

Going to inspect the outside cable tomorrow to see if it might be time to replace it. Anything I should look for?

What should I replace it with? Actually, I think I am going to replace all the cables throughout the entire house. Where do you guys recommend I buy some quality (outside) cables for all cables run through the walls to the outside and all inside cables?

 

[valve1138]

Make sure the cables are RG-6 and not RG-59.

Also look at what kind of coax connectors have been installed. Compression fittings are best.

You can use any coax you want outside if it has a black jacket, white isn't UV resistant and will fall apart eventually.

A simple redo of the coax connectors can make a world of difference.

 

[bds1904]

Make sure the cables are RG-6 and not RG-59.

True, you want RG-6 and not RG-59. BUT there are several types of RG-6. You will want to use dual-shield (or better) RG-6. Don't buy the cheap single shield available at the local home store, it's crap. Solid copper core is better than copper clad aluminum (CCA), but it is significantly more expensive.

Also look at what kind of coax connectors have been installed. Compression fittings are best.

True, crimp on connectors are bad, compression fittings are better. There are lots of different kind of compression connectors out there. Outside, one with an o-ring and a sealing surface on the back will last, cheap ones won't.

You can use any coax you want outside if it has a black jacket, white isn't UV resistant and will fall apart eventually.

Completly false. UV resistant cable is UV resistant cable. Black non-UV rated cable won't last either.

A simple redo of the coax connectors can make a world of difference.

Only true if you are changing from crimp to compression or your current fittings were installed incorrectly or damaged. Wallplates (and the fittings behind them) are commonly overlooked. If the barrel isn't blue on the inside, junk it. If it's blue it's rated for the frequencies modern cable requires.

Fittings here
Crimper here
RG-6 here

How your home coax network is wired is also important. Ideally, you should only have 1 or 2 splitters. 99% of the time noise issues come from INSIDE the house. 99% of the time your modem run should not be amplified. I can guarantee you have no reason to amp your modem, which is why you have a noise issue.

Your house should be wired as such:

Cable company in - 2 way splitter (one to modem, one to amp) - amp - splitter - TV's

Ideally, you shouldn't have ANY open ports or drops, if you do, they need to be capped with a 75ohm terminator or you will suffer ingress.

As I've said before you also have a shit modem with shit software. That modem dropping is a known issue on some types of neighborhood nodes that Motorola won't fix.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Thanks for the links, much appreciated!

I only have two splitters. One outside that's a 4-way amp and the one inside that splits to the modem then to the tv tuner.


I've had the issue before I installed the amp, still think it's the amp? Could be the modem too, but my connection had issues before I got this new modem too. It was one of the reasons why I got a new modem in the first place besides not having to pay $8 a month to rent the other one.

Also I wonder if it's just something going on at night that causes this. It seems to happen around the same time every night. Right now, the cable signal looks awesome.

 

[bds1904]

I don't think it's the amp, I think you are amping a crappy signal from wet/damaged/corroded ends and/or cable.

Like I said before, 99% of situations should be "drop from cable co - 2 way splitter (one to modem, one to amp) - amp connected to tv tuners".

If your running your modem off of anywhere but that first 2-way splitter then the system is set up incorrectly.

The cable company drop should be connected to a barrel that is grounded, then to the 2 way (one to the modem, one to the amp) then everything else connected to the amp.

All barrels should be "blue centered" including the barrel that is grounded. Your splitter inside should also be rated 5-1005 mhz. Open all the conncections and see if they are made correctly. All connections should be compression, all fittings outside should have a weather boot. Most importantly the dielectric should be flush with the bottom of the fitting and the stinger should be 2-4mm past the end of the fitting.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Well I just took the time to bypass the amp and all splitters. I took the modem outside, connected it to the line coming from the ground and the modem didn't appear to drop any connections.

However, I by passed the amp outside and put it on a 2-way splitter. Only one end connected to the splitter goes straight to the modem directly. Connection dropped.

Took modem outside, connected it directly to the ground, no connection dropped. At least the lights on the modem didn't reboot itself like it normally does. Could have been "fixed" like it is now, all hooked up like before, numbers look good, connection is good, all is good.

I got a tech coming out Monday to take a look at the setup.

Right now it's setup.

Ground >> 4 way amp >> amp power insert >> 2 way splitter >> modem & tv tuner

I intend to set it up the way you mentioned, but I do need more cable to run all this since I don't have that I'm running it this way for now. Once the tech comes out and he tells me whatever it is he wants to say; I will go from there. Maybe he will replace that line free (doubt it) that goes to this room from the outside.