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Building First Comp

L

Lantoka

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
71
Hello everybody. Some of you may remember a post I made back in December expressing my wishes to build my first computer and asking for help compiling the parts that I would need. Unfortunately, I was unable to start work on the computer at that time. However, I did compile the parts that I wanted to use on the computer.

Now that school is out, I can begin work on it, although I'd like to run my parts by you guys one more time before I start to check for compatibility issues and to see if any newer parts have come out that some of you might recommend in place of what I have here.

Here are the specs.

Mobo: ABIT IC7-G Max II Advance, Intel 875P DDR Chipset
Processor: Intel Pentium 4 3.00GHz 512KB L2 Cache PGA478 800MHz FSB Supports HT
Case: Antec Performance Plus Case 1080 AMG
Power: Antec True 430W 12V ATX
Memory: MUSHKIN 512MB PC3200 Level 2 DDR/SDRAM x2
Video: ATI Radeon 9800PRO 128MB DDR
Hard Drive: Western Digital 250GB 7200 RPM 8MB

If you guys have links to any tutorials for constructing a computer, I would also be interested in some of those. I have one fairly decent tutorial, but it's always nice to have a few back-ups. ;)

Lastly, where should I get the parts? Several people have recommended NewEgg. How does that work? Do you just order the parts and they ship them to you ready to go?

Thanks in advance for answering my many questions. I'm a first-timer, so bear with me. :p
 
Pretty good, though you might want to consider instead two smaller drives that add up to around the same as the 250gb, so that you can make a raid array.

Edit - Also, I'd go with the Max III instead... Someone on the board I go to has one, and it rocks his EE at a 0.6 overclock.
 
so_cal_forever said:
Pretty good, though you might want to consider instead two smaller drives that add up to around the same as the 250gb, so that you can make a raid array.
Click to expand...

How does a raid array work?
 
looks good...

newegg is the best place to buy computer hardware, in my opinion. Cheap shipping, cheap prices and you'll see it at your front door within three business days.
 
My current computer. Some of you will get a kick out of this. =P

OS: Microsoft Windows 95

Processor: Intel 82440FX Pentium Pro 150-200 MHz
Power: Power Man SPI-235HA 235W
Memory: 64 MB RAM
Video: Graphics Blaster Exxtreme
Sound: Sound Blaster CT4170
NIC: 3Com EtherLink III ISA (3C509b-TPO)

Floppy Disk: Generic NEC
Hard Drive: NEC Corporation DSE2 2.37 GB
Hard Drive: EDC WD10 2AA-00BAA0 7.82 GB
CD ROM: ATAPI 48x

*barf*
 
Well I dare say you'll see some speed increases across the whole playing field :).
 
If youve never assembled a pc before, make sure you have a "support" line. Likea geeky friend, or something like that.

Be careful, because quite often they wont warrenty improperly inserted/configured parts, which means if you bork your processor installing it for example and it has bent pins, you may (or may not) be out of luck.

Most motherboard manuals go into some good detail on installing memory and cards,as well as the processor. Most dont go into how to actually install it into the case.

Heres some common first time errors:

To much thermal paste.
An extra motherboard standoff that shorts the motherboard. (the standoffs are usually plastic, gold, or silver color and screw/clip into the motherboard tray)
No standoffs at all.
Improperly setting hard drive jumpers
Not installing the heatsink/fan, or installing it improperly

So theres some things to watch out for.Hope that helps.
In this case, id reccomend either a local chain, like compusa, or some other local store. Its far easier to get some help if you need it.
 
The best advice I can give is double check everything before powering up.

The other thing is just to start with just the cpu, vid card and one stick of memory.
If it boots up like that and switch off and unplug and put the rest of the hardware in.
It takes a little longer to build it like that but if anything is DOA then trouble shooting is a lot easier and you findout whats wrong faster.

Other common errors.

Not switching power supply on at the back.
IDE/ floppy cables in backwards, not so common as most new ones are keyed.
Case/ mobo switch cables on wrong headers.

Luck......... :D
 
I'd recommend Newegg for overall price and customer support. If you haven't already found retailers....

And yeah, you may want to have a friend with you or walk you through it. I just put together my first computer from scratch a couple months ago without any help but I had alot of experience with misc hardware issues before that.
 
The following is a guide I wrote for a friend of mine several months back. Its based on a cheap case with removeable motherboard tray and using a retail HSF PIV ...
1) put motherboard in removable motherboard tray - it has 6 standoffs that are in the correct spots for standard ATX Mobo, and has additional support clips to fit under other locations if you need them.

2) install processor and heatsink (flip up lever on ZIF socket - match CPU pattern to socket patter, drop in, flip ZIF lever down. Clip heatsink into retention clip, then flip the latches to lock it down - try to do both latches at once to avoid asymmetrical loading on the processor) Plug fan power into motherboard fan header near the CPU socket.

3) install RAM - open up the levers, push the stick into the slot, click into place such that the levers snap shut. The RAM is keyed so it can only go in one way. Be sure you have it right, then push firmly.

4) connect case connectors (LED's, switches, etc) to motherboard - do NOT use the slip of paper that comes with the case to make the connections. Follow the Motherboard manual. Note that the little black cylinder with a red wire and a black wire coming from it is the case speaker (for BIOS beeps, etc).

5) Connect front connect USB cable to motherboard USB header - the case connector labels do not exactly match what the motherboard calls them, but it can be figured out. Sort the "1" connectors from the "2" connectors. power to power. "+ to "+" "-" to "-" and ground to ground. (it will be clearer if you're looking at the connectors and the port header diagram while reading this)

6) swap out motherboard passthrough panel for the one that comes in the case. 50/50 they don't match. If they do, you can leave the one that came with the case in the case.

7) insert assembled motherboard tray into the case. Plug in power - primary motherboard power (biggest connector) and PIV power (small four pin connector)

8) install fans into case. (7/8 can be swapped - depending on where you are putting fans and access you want.)

9) install video card into AGP slot. (9/10 can be swapped - depending on room in case. For the Maxtop, there's enough room to do it either way.

10) install drives into drive bays. Be sure that all cabling reaches from the motherboard to the drives before you screw them down. Drives nowadays usually come set to "cable select" or "CS" using jumpers on the back of the drive. I typically override them to force master or slave as appropriate. If HD and CD are sharing an IDE cable, HD is master (MA), CD is slave (SL). If CD and CDRW are sharing an IDE cable, I don't think it matters - just make sure one is master and one is slave.

11) install drive cabling. Everything nowadays is keyed to make it difficult if not impossible to install the cable the wrong way. Also if you have 3-pin fans, attach as many as you can to the fan headers on the motherboard (typically Motherboards have 1 or two additional fan headers for case fans) ANy remaining fans, attach using adapters (if necessary) to 4 pin 12 volt Molex connectors (the biggish ones that connect to drives).

12) double check drive cabling and power leads. connect monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers to the motherboard.

13) start system - it should go directly to BIOS to confirm your processor speed. In BIOS - set BOOT order to CD-ROM first, HD- second - though most motherboards check the CDROM by default nowadays. Leave everything else at default, for now. Put WINXP in CD tray, Save and Exit BIOS, which will reboot system.

14) When system boots, it will ask to boot from HD or CD, boot from CD, then if given the choice (i.e. if it doesn't do it automagically), start WinXP setup and install WinXP - when asked, do not use FAT32 - use NTFS file system.

15) after windows installs itself, install motherboard drivers (shipset, sound, LAN) from CD - reboot after each individual install - don't do all three at once. Then install Video Card drivers. There may be an AGP driver for the motherboard - typically you install the AGP driver after you install the video driver. Why, I dunno, but thats the way the last 3 different motherboards I installed did it (SiS based systems).

16) Go online and grab windows updates and DirectX9. Shut case.

17) Install software and controllers and play WB.

Should take just under 4 hours, since this is your first build.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
 
PS - you can read about his experiences (Mac user building his first PC at our urging) here

BB
 
Thanks for all the great info, guys! Keep it coming! I'll be starting on my comp soon and I could use as much help as I can get. :)
 
Don't ever put the RAM in backwards, it may be hard to see how people do, but believe me. They do.

Make sure the processor is in the right way, and read the Manual/Instruction things that come with the Mobo/Proc to make sure.

Make sure all connections are secure, and everything has power etc.

If it doesn't boot the first time, check the Jumpers, the power button connectors etc...
Make sure the CPU fan is plugged in to the motherboard, and the computer is plugged in, and the ATX connector is plugged into the motherboard.

Ground yourself lots by touching the chassis of the Case, not by touching the parts :)

Handle all parts with care, and don't rub your feet on the ground, then touch your parts to see how big of a shock you get.

Don't lick molex connectors when the computer is turned on...

Be extra careful, and check everything thrice before moving on.

and last but definetly not least...


HAVE FUN :D
 
Well, it looks like I'll be sticking with the parts I specified, and ordering them from NewEgg. Thanks to everybody for all of your informative info! I'll make sure to refer back to this thread often as I'm building my new comp. :)

Let's hope I can get everything ordered today.
 
Looks like a pretty nice system. And about newegg.. they're teh roxx0r boxx0r. I freaking buy EVERYTHING from them. They're so quality. I couldnt live w/o newegg. During last summer, I was buying something from them every other day. There checkout is so simple and their site is so well maintained and prices always rule. I got my XP pro for 150$ dollars cheaper than at Bestbuy!! If you order on a monday...you wont ever be delayed past thursday..and they have fedex so you get delivers on sat...w00t.

btw I feel like coming to your house just so see the beautiful newegg box and their glorius packaging..makes me all giddy inside..I might just go buy a new computer myself hahaha.

GL man
Welcome to the PC build cult
 
Lantoka said:
My current computer. Some of you will get a kick out of this. =PProcessor: Intel 82440FX Pentium Pro 150-200 MHz
Power: Power Man SPI-235HA 235W
Memory: 64 MB RAM
Video: Graphics Blaster Exxtreme
Sound: Sound Blaster CT4170
NIC: 3Com EtherLink III ISA (3C509b-TPO)

Floppy Disk: Generic NEC
Hard Drive: NEC Corporation DSE2 2.37 GB
Hard Drive: EDC WD10 2AA-00BAA0 7.82 GB
CD ROM: ATAPI 48x
Click to expand...

wow my pocket pc is faster than that thing
 
desta23 said:
Don't even put the ram in backwords....! nuff said...
Click to expand...
How is that possible? The notch isn't in the middle of the module, so you'd have to like, shove it down in there with a lot of force and you'd just break the module.

Building a computer is extremely easy. I built my first one three years ago, the whole process took about an hour ( non-magnetic screwdriver = :( ), it posted, installed Windows 2000, worked fine.

One problem I did run into when I was building a recent machine for my neighbor was that a screw had somehow managed its way inside the case where it was touching the motherboard, however I could not see it and it didn't appear to move at all the rest of the time. I go to turn on the computer, doesn't turn on. I take out everything, one by one. Finally decide to run the comp out of box, it works. I bring the case over and I hear a damn screw rolling around. That wasted like three hours of my life :mad:
 
Lantoka said:
Hello everybody. Some of you may remember a post I made back in December expressing my wishes to build my first computer and asking for help compiling the parts that I would need. Unfortunately, I was unable to start work on the computer at that time. However, I did compile the parts that I wanted to use on the computer.

Now that school is out, I can begin work on it, although I'd like to run my parts by you guys one more time before I start to check for compatibility issues and to see if any newer parts have come out that some of you might recommend in place of what I have here.

Here are the specs.

Mobo: ABIT IC7-G Max II Advance, Intel 875P DDR Chipset
Processor: Intel Pentium 4 3.00GHz 512KB L2 Cache PGA478 800MHz FSB Supports HT
Case: Antec Performance Plus Case 1080 AMG
Power: Antec True 430W 12V ATX
Memory: MUSHKIN 512MB PC3200 Level 2 DDR/SDRAM x2
Video: ATI Radeon 9800PRO 128MB DDR
Hard Drive: Western Digital 250GB 7200 RPM 8MB

If you guys have links to any tutorials for constructing a computer, I would also be interested in some of those. I have one fairly decent tutorial, but it's always nice to have a few back-ups. ;)

Lastly, where should I get the parts? Several people have recommended NewEgg. How does that work? Do you just order the parts and they ship them to you ready to go?

Thanks in advance for answering my many questions. I'm a first-timer, so bear with me. :p
Click to expand...
great mobo

you could save a LOT more money by not buying a brand name case but thats up to you...personally, id buy a nice looking generic one, then use the money i save to mod it to my liking...

another thing is.. for the sometimes the video and ESPECIALLY the harddrive... i strongly recommend you to wait for a sale at best buy or circuit city and get it onsale for cheap after MIRs... very good deals

how much are you spending?... so far, i think you have a pretty nice system
 
dig_em said:
WOW! I'm building my first one too this week... there about the same computers too!


we have the same ram(except mines OCZ), u have a little better cpu, same v-card...

I dont know which card ur getting but im getting this one, and i recommend it:

http://www.hypermicro.com/product.asp?pf_id=VDHE100B
Click to expand...
i bet you recommended that because of the flashy lights :D


one more thing to add... newegg is gooooood... just order what you want and follow their instructions and print out the receipt just incase.... their service is like the best, fast shipping, cheap prices, etc 90 to 95% of my online/offline computer parts purchases are from newegg


dont use a dummies book for tutorials... thats what i started out with and its ALWAYS outdated... i bought the newest version like last year and it was still like teaching me to install 32mb ram sticks... they do help a lil tho but only for the an intro purpose

or google it... look for computer building how-tos
 
I'll be ordering the parts tonight. I made a list, including the exact model, prices, and why I chose each part. I also chose my drives. I'll worry abt accessories later. If you guys have any final comments, shoot.

Mother Board
Model: ABIT IC7-G Max II Advance, Intel 875P DDR Chipset
Quantity: 1
Price: $139.00
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-127-152&depa=0
Choice: This mother board comes very highly recommended by other forum users.
People tell me that it is very easy to install and that is is a high-
quality mother board. It also has audio ports, saving me the cost of
a sound card.

Processor
Model: Intel Pentium 4 3.00GHz 512KB L2 Cache PGA478 800MHz FSB Supports HT
Quantity: 1
Price: $219.00 (went down)
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=19-116-156&catalog=343&depa=0
Choice: The fastest processor is 3.20 GHz, but is also $100 more expensive.
That is hardly any difference, so this is clearly the better deal.

Case
Model: Antec Performance Plus Case 1080 AMG
Antec True 430W 12V ATX
Quantity: 1
Price: $119.00
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=11-129-115&depa=1
Choice: While not as cheap as a generic case, this case also came highly
recommended and is a good deal. It comes with a 430W power supply
(300 is the minimum requirement), five fans for very good ventilation,
and is very large. It's a good case. I also took measurements and it
will fit under my desk.

Memory
Model: MUSHKIN 512MB PC3200 Level 2 DDR/SDRAM
Quantity: 2
Price: $367.00 (went up)
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...146-288&catalog=147&manufactory=BROWSE&depa=0
Choice: Many people say that Mushkin is the best manufacturer of RAM. 512MB is
currently the highest quantity out, and Level 2 is more sophistocated.
1 GB of RAM will allow my computer to handle even the most modern and
sophisticated programs and games.

Video
Model: ATI Radeon 9800PRO 128MB DDR
Quantity: 1
Price: $223.00 (went down)
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=14-102-286&catalog=48&depa=0
Choice: A good video card that also comes highly recommended. The best in its
series, with plenty of memory right onboard. $60 less than the same
card with more memory.

Hard Drive
Model: Western Digital 250GB 7200RPM SATA
Quantity: 1
Price: $192.50
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=22-144-154&depa=0
Choice: 250GB is the largest available HDD on the market. SATA is the most
modern and fastest HDD interface (as opposed to IDE), and my mother
board supports it.

Floppy Drive
Model: Alps Silver 3.5in Floppy Disk Drive
Quantity: 1
Price: $16.99
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=21-103-303&depa=0
Choice: The only floppy drive in silver, to match the case. Any floppy drive
will do, really. There's not much difference between any of them, and
they start at $10.

Optical Drive
Model: NEC 8X Dual Layer DVD+/-RW Drive, Model ND-2510A SVR
Quantity: 1
Price: $88.99
URL: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=27-152-025&depa=0
Choice: This CD drive comes in silver, and serves as both a CD RW and a DVD
RW. CD-ROM: 40X Max, DVD-ROM: 12X Max, CD-RW: 16X max, DVD+RW: 4X
max.

Total
Price: $1365.48
Availability: All in stock.

Muahahaha! Now my dream will become a reality. :D Thanks for all of your helpful tips; I'll be sure to utilize them as I construct my computer.
 
The customer reviews on NewEgg mention problems with the Gigabit LAN, and somebody in this post also mentioned it. What exactly is that?
 
I have to correct you on only one thing. 250 GB's is not the largest size available for a hard drive. A company called Lanie makes a full terrabyte hard drive, but as you can probably guess, the seek and write times are quite high. However, that's unbelievable to even fathom in a single drive casing.

I'd definitely agree too that the system is styling and profiling although, I'm not a big fan of the Antec cases. I'd also recommend a lesser known brand as my own Chieftec, which looks just like an Antec case, just at a fraction of the cost.

Dark Assassin
 
Parts ordered. :D

Tax: $112.61
Subtotal: $ 1,364.98
1 year extended warranty fee: $ 0.00
Shipping & Handling: $15.00
Grand Total: $ 1,492.59

Phew! I've never spent that much on any single purchase in my life! My daddy's credit card is going to have a nice spike in it this month. :p

Good thing I have $1300 left over for accessories... :cool: If things go well and I have enough left, I might even consider building a server and using old accessories for it, as well. We'll just have to see...

I'll keep this thread updated. Thanks for all of your support, you guys!
 
crazyvato said:
no point in buying the ic7 g unless u use gigabyte networking
Click to expand...
i think he wants to overclock?


and he should overclock... perfect system for that
 
Lantoka said:
Parts ordered. :D

Tax: $112.61
Subtotal: $ 1,364.98
1 year extended warranty fee: $ 0.00
Shipping & Handling: $15.00
Grand Total: $ 1,492.59

Phew! I've never spent that much on any single purchase in my life! My daddy's credit card is going to have a nice spike in it this month. :p

I'll keep this thread updated. Thanks for all of your support, you guys!
Click to expand...
thats quite a lotta money.. but its all good...lol

i never spent that much for computer purchases in one breath... maybe like 800 to 1000 at max every once in a while

MY daddys credit card has like ten spikes in it... o well, still room to add more :D
 
Dark Assassin said:
I have to correct you on only one thing. 250 GB's is not the largest size available for a hard drive. A company called Lanie makes a full terrabyte hard drive, but as you can probably guess, the seek and write times are quite high. However, that's unbelievable to even fathom in a single drive casing.

I'd definitely agree too that the system is styling and profiling although, I'm not a big fan of the Antec cases. I'd also recommend a lesser known brand as my own Chieftec, which looks just like an Antec case, just at a fraction of the cost.

Dark Assassin
Click to expand...
you thinking LACIE? if so its an external RAID array.. think its 5 drives RAID 5ed to make the TB
 
Hehe, I got the case today. :) The rest should be coming in from New Jersey tomorrow.

Question. Will I need tools to put this together that doesn't come with the hardware? I have an old computer tooklit with various sized screwdrivers and other gizmos that should do the job, but anything else? I saw in the back of my Antec manual that came with the case that they were selling "thermal glue". Will I be needing that? Because now's the time to buy it. =P

Thanks in advance.
 
Lantoka said:
Hehe, I got the case today. :) The rest should be coming in from New Jersey tomorrow.

Question. Will I need tools to put this together that doesn't come with the hardware? I have an old computer tooklit with various sized screwdrivers and other gizmos that should do the job, but anything else? I saw in the back of my Antec manual that came with the case that they were selling "thermal glue". Will I be needing that? Because now's the time to buy it. =P

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
well, basically you just need a phillips screwdriver (and lotsa tools for modding IF you mod)... but i guess the greater variety of tools you have, the better

thermal glue is just compound that you put between a processor and a heatsink to insure better thermal transfer... i recommend you NOT to buy the glue kind for cpus because altho i didnt use glue types, i had a bad experience where the heatsink melted the thermal pad and glued itself on my p4 and i couldnt had just unlocked the lever and take out the processor since theres brackets around it so i ended up accidently pulling it off bending half the pins... just get thermal compound, ive heard AS5 was good but havnt heard that for a while btw, you only need a lil dash of thermal compound.. too much is very bad, try to get a very thin coating thin enough to almost see the metal... and dont use your fingers because it has oil... i use a piece of clingwrap (the stuff that keeps food fresh) and i wrap it around my finger and then use that to wipe.. you dont want finger oil in your thermal compound because it'll interfere with the heat transfer
 
Thanks, wayne. I'll go get thermal compound, then. Does that happen to come with the processor and/or mobo?

And more questions. =P

1) What sort of surface should I work on? I'm tempted to use the side panel of my case, which is made of steel. Any problems with that?
2) My power supply contains a 20-pin, 6-pin, and 4-pin +12 volt connection for my mobo. It also has five 4-pin perephrial connections and two 4-pin floppy connectors. There is also a blue 3-pin connector to hook up to the mobo to monitor the fans. However, there is also one cable not mentioned in the booklet that came with the case. It has five wires running from it (yellow-black-red-black-orange) and an odd head. The head is like flat with very little pinholes, and the actual insert is long with no defined holes. There's also a notch at one end. What is this cord for?

Thanks again. ;)
 
Lantoka said:
Thanks, wayne. I'll go get thermal compound, then. Does that happen to come with the processor and/or mobo?

And more questions. =P

1) What sort of surface should I work on? I'm tempted to use the side panel of my case, which is made of steel. Any problems with that?
2) My power supply contains a 20-pin, 6-pin, and 4-pin +12 volt connection for my mobo. It also has five 4-pin perephrial connections and two 4-pin floppy connectors. There is also a blue 3-pin connector to hook up to the mobo to monitor the fans. However, there is also one cable not mentioned in the booklet that came with the case. It has five wires running from it (yellow-black-red-black-orange) and an odd head. The head is like flat with very little pinholes, and the actual insert is long with no defined holes. There's also a notch at one end. What is this cord for?

Thanks again. ;)
Click to expand...
right, thermal compound should come with most retail processors and heatsinks... sry

1) you should work on a CLEAN surface, maybe cover the bottom with a piece of clothe or newspaper to prevent your case from scratching
2) i believe that cable MIGHT be some adapter for a SATA connection... maybe a picture if possible?.. or other people may be able to answer your question... OH WAIT... or if this cable is attached ON the powersupply, then i think its one of those old AT powersupply heads... i dont know why but old AT motherboards needed two of those symmetrical cables but new powersupplies only come with one... quite odd... i doubt you'll ever need that.. thru out my whole life, i never came into the need to use that cord on new powersupplies for new mobos... only used it in old AT boards

one more tip to keep in mind as you work is to always ground yourself... the reason is your body may pick up electricity here and there and build up static and if you touch a computer component, ZAP, you could kill it... if you have the money, invest in a grounding strap that can be bought at many computer stores that you tie around your wrist and attach to a ground... ground means a place to discharge electricity and preferably the ground instead of inside your computer... if you dont feel like buying the anti-static wrist strap, dont worry, there are alternatives... i dont use those straps, too cheap to get one :D ...... just make sure to touch the metal part of your case or something else thats a big piece of metal BEFORE you work on your computer and always touch it everyonce in a while to keep yourself grounded and with minimum static
 
wayne said:
OH WAIT... or if this cable is attached ON the powersupply, then i think its one of those old AT powersupply heads... i dont know why but old AT motherboards needed two of those symmetrical cables but new powersupplies only come with one... quite odd... i doubt you'll ever need that.. thru out my whole life, i never came into the need to use that cord on new powersupplies for new mobos... only used it in old AT boards
Click to expand...

Yes, all of the cables I mentioned above are attached to the power supply. It's an Antec 430W 12V power supply that came with my case (also Antec). I was just wondering what that was, since the user's manual didn't even mention it when it went over the cables.

The cable had two heads... one halfway up the wire and one at the end. I don't have my mobo and other parts yet... just trying to make sense of the power cables and get familiar with my case for today. ;)
 
Lantoka said:
Yes, all of the cables I mentioned above are attached to the power supply. It's an Antec 430W 12V power supply that came with my case (also Antec). I was just wondering what that was, since the user's manual didn't even mention it when it went over the cables.

The cable had two heads... one halfway up the wire and one at the end. I don't have my mobo and other parts yet... just trying to make sense of the power cables and get familiar with my case for today. ;)
Click to expand...
yea, i believe it is the AT cable thing... i usually cut it off to organize the cables in some of my computers

i ve noticed how rapid your last few responses were... and ive noticed that you happen to be online right now... if you see this reply in time or whenever else i m on, you can IM me on AIM where i can further help you if you need more advice/help

hit me at bladderoverclock <-aim
 
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