Budget HTPC

For the quality thing...there is the 23.976fps vs. 24fps problem. Most movies are shot at 23.976fps, while the i3's IGP will only output at an even 24fps. What this means is that you will get 1 duplicate frame every 42-ish seconds, which you may or may not notice. Personally, neither myself nor my wife have seen it as a problem. Some people notice it, others don't.

If you had spare parts laying around, I would say to use whatever processor you have. Since you don't have an extra chip, I'm recommending the i3 just because I have always been a "best performance for the price" person. Right now, that's the i3 for $100.

You can't really go wrong either way. Either you have a more powerful chip (i3) that's overkill for strictly HTPC applications other than faster encoding (if you do any), or you have a less powerful chip with discrete graphics card that you won't use for gaming/3D anyway, that will be limited in performance should you decide to repurpose the box down the line. Obviously, it's completely up to you. Personally, I'd just go with whatever the best deal is that you can find that will work for you.
 
That setup for that price would absolutely outperform an i3 in pretty much anything. In fact, you could shave quite a bit off still...

XFX Radeon 5450 Fanless VGA ($35, minus $10 MIR)
or, if you don't mind a fan
Gigabyte Radeon 5450 ($40, minus $20 MIR)

The Phenom II X4 would be way overkill for HTPC use also. You could drop to the X2 I linked earlier and save another $45 there.

EDIT: The 5450s would be more than sufficient for standard HTPC stuff. The only reason you'd need a 6570 is if you wanted to do some light gaming with it also.
 
MrHood22 said:
Those were more or less my thoughts at the beginning of this thread, now i'm not too sure.

Do any of you "Go i3 with no IGP or dedicated card" supporters have a retort?
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My HTPC has a Core Duo E6850 (CPU 4 or 5 years old now). CPU usage is mostly less than about 13% on a demanding movie like The Dark Knight and most of the time way less than that. The I think he is correct in stating that if all do is watch Blu-rays then the CPU will be wasted. You don't need an i3. However, my chip can get loud (fan) even though most of the time I can't hear it. I'd rather have no fan and less than 65W, even though I could under clock it. But the machine feels responsive on everything I do, too, and as long as it remains like that I'm a happy camper. I should state that the 5450 I had in there before getting the 6750 really got warm when driving it hard. The 6750 doesn't seem to get as warm but I also have added some always on, low rpm fans to my case.

If you don't mind paying for new parts later should you decided to go another way, get the system that does your job as you see it now and move on. I probably could go for the i3 if I were building new, but that's just how I see things. It certainly doesn't mean your way won't work for you.
 
I have made several changes to my build. After looking deeper into the potential game server I have decided against it. I'm too nervous that verizon will rage on me for using too much bandwidth. I use a lot of download and with a server I will use a lot of upload so I have decided against it.

Now this computer will be strictly a HTPC (Movies and music from NAS, 1080p HDMI)


I've cut back on a lot of the performance because it isn't necessary if it will be strictly an HTPC. I also am going to buy from amazon because prime shipping is awesome and i'd spend an extra $25 at newegg between price difference and shipping.

MSI 880GM-E43
Corsair XMS3 4gb x 1 DDR3 1066
Athlon II x2 250
HIS HD5450 1gb
Cooler Master elite 360

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT4LPS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZDJ42O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z4PB3O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00368CIBC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TUYTZ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER



Edit:

It appears that the 5450 is a small step above the integrated 4250. If that's the case, do I even need the 5450?
 
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Newegg has stuff on sale though =) Check this out:

Crucial Ballistix 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1333 (Shell shocker, $26.99, free shipping)
MSI 880GM-E41 ($64.99, $15 MIR, free shipping)
***Not sure what the difference is between the E41 and E43 you linked, but to me it looks like this one would work too for $30 less after MIR.
AMD Athlon X2 250 ($54.99 with promo code EMCKCHD35, free shipping)

Either of the 5450s I linked earlier are cheaper after MIR, even after you have to pay shipping. I can't beat the case on Amazon though.

Anyway, I'm going to bow out of this thread now. Good luck, hope it works well for you!
 
I'm not certain about needing the 5450. That'd be a question for someone else. It would fix the 23.976 vs 24 fps issue, but aside from that, I couldn't tell you. I've never used integrated graphics in any of my builds, aside from the i3.

Could go with a 6570 as you mentioned earlier ($80, $15 MIR, free shipping). AQ_OC mentioned his 5450 generating quite a bit of heat, might be something to think about.
 
Xonim said:
Newegg has stuff on sale though =) Check this out:

Crucial Ballistix 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1333 (Shell shocker, $26.99, free shipping)
MSI 880GM-E41 ($64.99, $15 MIR, free shipping)
***Not sure what the difference is between the E41 and E43 you linked, but to me it looks like this one would work too for $30 less after MIR.
AMD Athlon X2 250 ($54.99 with promo code EMCKCHD35, free shipping)

Either of the 5450s I linked earlier are cheaper after MIR, even after you have to pay shipping. I can't beat the case on Amazon though.

Anyway, I'm going to bow out of this thread now. Good luck, hope it works well for you!
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The 5450's were cheaper but I read into the reviews and they were saying that the rebate is hit or miss. Something about the rebate company being investigated. I wasn't trying to deal with that.

As far as the RAM, i'd rather spend the extra $3 to go with corsair because it looks like it has a better heat spreader on it and it will free up a RAM slot.

The main difference I see between the Mobo's are the PCI slots. The one I'm looking at has 2, the one you're looking at has 1. I may not like the integrated sound so I might buy a soundcard. I like the idea of having an extra PCI slot for some room to breathe.
 
I think the 24fps issue is fixed. That might have been true with older IGPs.

Don't bother getting the HD5450, get the HD6450. If you get a 5xxx card, get the HD5550.
 
Why would you need a soundcard? Are you using DVI/VGA/component? HDMI sends audio out.
 
450 said:
Why would you need a soundcard? Are you using DVI/VGA/component? HDMI sends audio out.
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I'm thinking in terms of quality. I haven't used integrated audio for a long time so I don't know where it's at.


I ended up ordering all the stuff.

I switched Mobo's at the last minute.


ASUS M4A88TD-M
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131654

in addition to what i mentioned previously:

Corsair XMS3 4gb x 1 DDR3 1066
Athlon II x2 250
Cooler Master elite 360

The total came out to $220ish (with a 10ft HDMI and Wireless mouse/keyboard).
 
But if you are going via HDMI you don't need a soundcard. What speakers/sound system are you using?
 
450 said:
But if you are going via HDMI you don't need a soundcard. What speakers/sound system are you using?
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I realize I don't NEED a sound card for it to work. Let me try to rephrase...

I understand that I can use the integrated sound card. However, If a week or two down the road I feel like the integrated sound card doesn't put out the level of quality I want then I will look into a PCI sound card.
 
He has a TV and a PC. Either he uses speakers of the TV or speakers on the PC. Does just a TV and a PC make a home theater? Personally, I think you need some kind of real speaker system (amplified sound), preferably a 5.1 setup.
 
lol The audio isn't processed by the intergrated audio. That's why you don't need a sound card if using HDMI. Putting a sound card isn't going to change anything if you are using HDMI. That's kind of the whole point for HDMI.

What you should be doing is buying a receiver and some speakers instead of a sound card.
 
Ahh I thought the sound card/Integrated sound still processed the sound and then sent it through the HDMI cable so I was just going to hook my speakers directly to the computer.

If I hook my 5.1 speakers to the computer and then connect my computer to the TV via HDMI. Will sound come out of both my 5.1 and my TV speakers?

For this simple application, how much would a receiver cost?
 
Nope. In that situation you would be using the onboard sound to process your audio or you'd only get sound from the TV's crappy speakers. You need to be using only HDMI to benefit from it.

Mine set was $210 for the receiver and $99 for some decent speakers. I bought a decent reciever (that has last me a few years now, no plans to upgrade it) and some speakers for an old Logitech speaker setup (the old one that used speaker wire for hooking up). They're decent little speakers for my apartment, maybe in a year or three I might upgrade to something better but probably only when I move.
 
CrimandEvil said:
Nope. In that situation you would be using the onboard sound to process your audio or you'd only get sound from the TV's crappy speakers. You need to be using only HDMI to benefit from it.

Mine set was $210 for the receiver and $99 for some decent speakers. I bought a decent reciever (that has last me a few years now, no plans to upgrade it) and some speakers for an old Logitech speaker setup (the old one that used speaker wire for hooking up). They're decent little speakers for my apartment, maybe in a year or three I might upgrade to something better but probably only when I move.
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Ehhh I'm not trying to spend $200 more. Is there anyway to tell the computer to only send video through HDMI and then look to the onboard sound for the audio?
 
Yes you can do that.

Honestly though, just search craigslist and pick up a cheap receiver that accepts optical input and get some HT speakers to match. You should be able to get it less than $75-125 if you bargain with the sellers.
 
450 said:
Yes you can do that.

Honestly thought, just search craigslist and pick up a cheap receiver that accepts optical input and get some HT speakers to match. You should be able to get it less than $75-125 if you bargain with the sellers.
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What would be the downside of using HDMI for video and the onboard sound card for audio? Is this process called something so I can look up the method of doing it?


What are HT speakers?
 
MrHood22 said:
Ehhh I'm not trying to spend $200 more. Is there anyway to tell the computer to only send video through HDMI and then look to the onboard sound for the audio?
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Well, then you'll be spending to get a sound card. As I said, that's what mine cost me and it has worked great for three years now. A receiver is an investment that should be made, check out Craig's list, eBay, etc. Seriously, it's not that bad. Use your head and look around.
 
CrimandEvil said:
Well, then you'll be spending to get a sound card. As I said, that's what mine cost me and it has worked great for three years now. A receiver is an investment that should be made, check out Craig's list, eBay, etc. Seriously, it's not that bad. Use your head and look around.
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Well I spent $200 on this so adding another $100 on there is increasing my overall cost by 50% which seems like so much. A quick google turned up that I could get an entry level receiver for about $100.

http://www.amazon.com/Sherwood-RX-4105-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B0002EPWC0?tag=5336055023-20

I think I will hold off on the receiver though. I may just hook my speakers up to my TV and see how they work with that set up. If i'm really unhappy with it I will end up buying a receiver. I will just play it by ear (pun intended) :p
 
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If you don't have a receiver/speaker setup, whether your audio is sent through HDMI or an optical out or old school composite cables isn't going to matter one bit. Once you get a receiver & speakers, just run HDMI through the receiver. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
 
Xonim said:
If you don't have a receiver/speaker setup, whether your audio is sent through HDMI or an optical out or old school composite cables isn't going to matter one bit. Once you get a receiver & speakers, just run HDMI through the receiver. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
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If he gets an older receiver another option would be to get the optical audio output from the TV and plug that into the receiver.
 
Update:

I tested it and I do not need a receiver too hear sound through my speakers connected to my PC.

What I did:

-Hooked computer (integrated ATI 4250) up to TV via HDMI

-Hooked 5.1 Logitech speakers up to computer (integrated sound card) via those 3 cables (green, orange, black)

Video displayed on TV and sound came out of 5.1 speakers.

*Note: Sound DID NOT come out of the TV speakers or the 2.1 speakers I have hooked up to the TV. I didn't look into this too much so maybe I just need to change a setting.
 
450 said:
I think the 24fps issue is fixed. That might have been true with older IGPs.

Don't bother getting the HD5450, get the HD6450. If you get a 5xxx card, get the HD5550.
Click to expand...
No, the 24fps thing has to do with the way the clock signal is generated and is a fundamental hardware flaw. The re-used that part of the IGP exactly from clarksdale, so until they redesign that piece of silicon you're stuck with the 24fps bug
 
MrHood22 said:
Update:

I tested it and I do not need a receiver too hear sound through my speakers connected to my PC.

What I did:

-Hooked computer (integrated ATI 4250) up to TV via HDMI

-Hooked 5.1 Logitech speakers up to computer (integrated sound card) via those 3 cables (green, orange, black)

Video displayed on TV and sound came out of 5.1 speakers.

*Note: Sound DID NOT come out of the TV speakers or the 2.1 speakers I have hooked up to the TV. I didn't look into this too much so maybe I just need to change a setting.
Click to expand...
Yep that'll work, using your computer speakers connected directly to your PC

To make the HDMI audio work, you are also right, you may have to change your sound settings in your OS.

I had HDMI handshake issues with my receiver -- plugged my HDMI from my HTPC into my Denon receiver and got blinking video -- so I used my SPDIF/optical out from my HTPC and connected to my receiver to just get the audio working. In that case I had to also change settings in my Windows 7 in my HTPC.

I looked at that ASUS you bought. Nice that it also has a SPDIF digital audio out, so if you ever get a receiver and it has issues with HDMI video from your HTPC, you can just instead use your SPDIF from your motherboard to get the audio to your receiver and then just plug the HDMI into your TV to see the video. You've got some flexibility with that mobo. I might pick that same board when upgrading my old HTPC.

BTW, like others have said, for improvement sound and home theater experience, you may want to look into getting a receiver in the future with a nice budget set of speakers. It makes a world of difference, especially with a decent subwoofer and a good center channel, but yeah, it does cost more, so I can understand your hesitation, but you can get a good budget system these days. As for me, you don't want to know how much I've spent on home theater over the years...it's an addicting hobby.
 
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