Budget 2.1 setup

[coolhandluke]

I've been searching this forum for the last hour or so looking for opinions on a decent 2.1 setup. I do not want a 'prepackaged' computer speaker setup. A popular suggestion seems to be the t-amp, the insignia bookshelf speakers from best buy, and the dayton 10" sub. This setup is for a dorm and will be used for movies, music, and games. I have no experience with this kind of thing though, so bear with me.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-958
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7705307&st=insignia+bookshelf&lp=1&type=product&cp=1&id=1138085354138
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-633

I have three questions: it seems that the dayton sub is powered and has its own amp built in. Why do I need the t-amp as well?

Also, how does this all connect together? Is it source > t-amp > sub > speakers?

Lastly, this setup will mainly use my computer as the source but what if I also want to plug in a game console or an ipod? Is there a way to switch between the sources without physically swapping whats plugged into the t-amp?

 

[aznpxdd]

You need the T Amp to power the speakers, the subwoofer has its own amp.

 

[spaceman]

What source?

Ok

The T-amp only has a mini or 1/8th stereo input

source > rca stereo to mini or if a sound card mini to mini (mini is the 1/8 headphone size plug) > T-amp

You will need a separate cable to go to the subwoofer. If you have a sound card, just get a really long mini to rca stereo cable.

That setup will blow you away though. great sound.

I have a similar setup. Better speakers but still close enough and I am really impressed. I do use a Pre amp for all my connections though.

 

[MikeDeuce]

You will need a separate cable to go to the subwoofer. If you have a sound card, just get a really long mini to rca stereo cable.

Keep in mind if you do that, you will either have to control volume at your source (PC?), or adjust the t-amp knob AND the sub gain.

Alternatively, you can use the speaker level in/out on the sub and pass through to the bookshelf speakers, which may or may not meet your SQ requirements.

 

[coolhandluke]

The source will be mostly my computer. Thanks for the info.

I'm having second thoughts about the Insignias and came across some Infinitys on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primus-Single-bookshelf-speaker/dp/B000LKC37W

I would have to buy them separately, but each is only $40. Are the P152's better than the insignias? Is it futile to even compare at the low end, are they all basically the same? I guess what I'm asking is what bookshelf speakers give the best value in the sub $100 range. Since the insignias are more expensive now, I'm thinking they would not be such a good choice.

edit: also, could I use something like this to connect multiple sources to the t-amp?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882123072

 

[scottatwittenberg]

i am confused about the t-amp too..
is it just being used as a preamp? (to have a volume knob) a headphone amp? i mean, its 4.5w x 2 at 8 ohms (or 10w at 10% thd) and the sub is 125w..
the bookshelf speakers would be powered off of the plate amp in the back of the dayton sub, right?

have fun with a sub in a dorm... i had 2 x 12 inch subs in a 5 cubic foot ported box.. and with only about 100 w going to each, i was able to rattle windows in another dorm connected to me, and in certain rooms around the corner from me it felt like you were sitting in a car with subs, it would compress your head.. i eventually got a noise violation for it.. and this was pretty much the party dorm and no one cared.. not like dorms at friends schools where you would get yelled at for playing music moderately loud through computer speakers on a friday night at 10 pm..

short story long... you might not be able to really even use the sub much in a dorm.. depending on the dorm..

 

[batmanwcm]

The source will be mostly my computer. Thanks for the info.

I'm having second thoughts about the Insignias and came across some Infinitys on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primus-Single-bookshelf-speaker/dp/B000LKC37W

I would have to buy them separately, but each is only $40. Are the P152's better than the insignias? Is it futile to even compare at the low end, are they all basically the same? I guess what I'm asking is what bookshelf speakers give the best value in the sub $100 range. Since the insignias are more expensive now, I'm thinking they would not be such a good choice.

edit: also, could I use something like this to connect multiple sources to the t-amp?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882123072

It's really up to preference. You can buy the Insignias audition them and if you don't like them, return them to BB within 30 days. I'm going the same route as you and I have the Insignia's waiting for the T-amp I ordered on buy.com. I wish they would ship my T-amp already.

 

[coolhandluke]

Alternatively, you can use the speaker level in/out on the sub and pass through to the bookshelf speakers, which may or may not meet your SQ requirements.

I think that's what I'm going to to. If I understand spaceman correctly, he's basically saying that I need two separate outputs from the source (one for sub and one for t-amp). Unfortunately, the computer is a laptop and has only one 'headphone size' output. Will passing through the sub cause any noticeable difference in the sound?

 

[spaceman]

there is no optical output?

ok then you need a y-adapter

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage...t&productCategoryId=cat08054&id=1069301596185

passing thru the sub may work fine too btw.

u really need a pre amp at some point lol

 

[Nicolaskl]

There's really no reason not to pass through the sub. 3.5mm to 3.5mm from source to T amp, speaker wire from T amp to sub, speaker wire from sub to speakers.

 

[weasel2htm]

Take a look at this instead of the T-AMP
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2407171&cp=2032057.2032180&parentPage=family
for $20 more, you get more power, AM/FM Tuner, and a source selector and little bookshelf speakers nowadays seem to be a bit on the power hungry side.

Just run your sub off the speaker level inputs, not as good quality in theory, but some people won't notice the difference. It's also getting close to garage sale season, see it you can pick up a 1970s Sansui ( or Marantz, Pioneer, H/K) receiver or something of the like a a garage sale or flea market, you will get something with excellent build quality (better then you will find now), and it will be cheaper. Those older receivers usually have a pre-out main-in loop, perfect for connecting the sub.

BTW, I might have to get one of those subs for my bedroom

 

[spaceman]

There's really no reason not to pass through the sub. 3.5mm to 3.5mm from source to T amp, speaker wire from T amp to sub, speaker wire from sub to speakers.

That works with that sub? Cool

That Sherwood receiver does not sound like a good idea in terms of SQ though. The T Amp has great detail and sound stage. It is also about $50-60 atm.

 

[Nicolaskl]

It works with any sub that has speaker level inputs, which pretty much any decent sub does.

There actually probably is a reason not to do it, I think it probably gives up a little in SQ to wiring it more "normally" but on a relatively low end system I don't think there's anyway it will be discernable.

 

[Fenris_Ulf]

Try running the T-amp through the subwoofer. The sub just monitors the speaker level inputs and sends that to its own internal amp. It (probably) uses a voltage divider and op-amp as input to the sub amp and the impedance is probably in the 10's of Kohm. Bottom line - it theoretically shouldn't make a difference in sound and should allow for a single volume control.

But - the original T-amp had an internal high pass filter that would filter out the lows. Low frequencies take lots of power to produce and the T-amp isn't designed for lots of power, so it would filter them out to keep the amp from overexerting itself. Since these frequencies are filtered out before they are amplified, they won't pass to the subwoofer. You'll have to try it out to see how it performs.

The ideal solution would be an active or passive pre-amp which would split the signal to the T-amp, subwoofer, and headphones, while providing a single volume control. It could be built for a few dollars with some soldering skills.

 

[coolhandluke]

The infinity P152 bookshelves have an efficiency of 88dB. Will the T-amp be able to drive those comfortably?

Also, I have a pair of old (like 1980's) Pioneer TS-X9 speakers. They're pretty small but built like a rock. The specs on the speakers say "input: nom 20w, max 40w, impedance 4 ohms". How much sound could I get out of these speakers (I can't hook them up to test)?

 

[khanable]

comfortably yea, but don't expect to hear them from outside + down the road..

the t-amp really shines on speakers with >90dB if I remember correctly.

 

[shadowlord]

Pioneer TS-X9 seem to be car stereo speakers ( back in the 80s it was state of the art to put speakers in own enclosures on the place behind the passengers seat).

assuming they are pretty small they won't put out much bass but youre safe hooking them up to the t-amp.

infact i have a similar pair myself and i always wonder how good they sound despite their small size.

 

[Minsc]

There's really no reason not to pass through the sub. 3.5mm to 3.5mm from source to T amp, speaker wire from T amp to sub, speaker wire from sub to speakers.

This is how mine is setup currently. The t-amp runs to the high-level inputs on my Yamaha sub, and the Polk's are connected to the high-level outputs. I have the gen2 t-amp, and there does not appear to be a high-pass filter on the output as the sub appears to reproduce frequencies well below it's 80Hz crossover point without any issue. There could be a sub-sonic filter, which is definitely not a bad idea on an amplifier of this type, but I would have to hook it up to the scope to verify.