Bought new DD pump,problem/question!?!

[dracos]

Hey I just bought the new Danger Den DDC-12V



Is is possible that this pump actually goes to fast? What I mean is I bled my system, and have NO air in the lines... It runs fine with no bubbles/air for about 1/2 and hour then bubbles start to form coming out of the pump on the out flow side, first they are small but then they get bigger, I have NO leaks in my system, the level actually goes up, I assume because of the added air..



Does this pump agitate the liquid so much that it CREATES bubbles in my system, if I turned the comp off for a while the bubbles will dissapate and the fluid level goes back to normal, so i know I am not losing fluid, I thought maybe I had a small leak, just enough to let some air in, but the fluid level never changes...



If I slowed the pump down would it help stop these bubbles??



and Next question is.... The pump I bought came with a molex connector, AND it came with a BLUE wire attached to a female 3 pin fan connector..... THIS setup is not ont he DD site, nor is it in ANY of the reviews for the pump.... WHAT is this blue wire for???????

 

[DFI Daishi]

are you running with an open loop or closed?

if you're running closed, are you sure that your pump was initially primed and you coolant was actually circulating?

it is not uncommon to leave the loop running for several hours to work all the air out of the loop, when you are first getting started. i'm just suprised about you saying that there was not air at first.

 

[Erasmus354]

are you using a resevoir or T-Line?

 

[Top Nurse]

I believe that the extra wire is a rotational signal so you can monitor RPM, but check with a DVM to make sure it ain't hot before attaching to MB. Some of those pumps were made like that, but I thought they were confined to engineering samples. Where can I get one?

 

[dracos]

I'm using a t-line....

and I got rid of all bubbles, I un hooked all cables from system, and rotated the comp every which way possible, tapped the rad, tapped the pump everything I could think of to get rid of bubbles........... System will run fine for approx 1/2 hour, then bubbles will start to form at the outflow of the pump, small at first, but then get larger.... i let the system sit overnight last night and then fired it up... no probs, no bubbles no nothing, I had to actually get a flash light and shine in to make sure water was flowing and actually feel the pump to make sure it was on (very quiet pump) and yes it was on and circulating, with no bubbles in the lines, but then as I said, bubbles formed...

If I had a leak my water level would drop right? Well it doesn't drop, I can take the system again and rotate it to remove all the bubbles, and the level will be back to where it was originally so no fluid loss at all!! I marked my fill hose so I know if I am leaking....

strange.... but the agitating action of the pump is all i can think of doing this..... I was hoping someone might tell me something more than 'you have air in your lines' I Promise you, I bled the hell out of the system first.........

i don't know... I guess keep playing with it.....

 

[thewhiteguy]

You may have a leak on the intake side* of the pump, it will suck in air and create bubbles.

In a T-line setup the intake side is everything after the final resistance like the last block in the line.

 

[DFI Daishi]

i'll say from experience that you can get some air being drawn into your pump without much leakage at all. only a few drops a day can be enough.

as for the pump forming bubbles..........the trailing side of the impeller blades represents a low pressure region, where water can go from a liquid to a gas state at room temperatures. this phenonoma is called "cavitation" and applies to pump and props both.

that being said, cavitation only happens to any noticable extent if the impeller is turning too quickly, or the fluid that it is turning in has a higher vapour pressure than the fluid that it was intended to turn in. it should not be a problem for you, assuming that you are using normal water and antifreeze/additive mix, and running the pump at normal 12 volts.

 

[dracos]

Well.. I think part of my pressure problem was that the Filiport cap was not tightened all the way (DUH), I may add Leak Lock to it it seal it...

And I am not using water at all.....

I am R&D testing a non-conductive fluid for a company..... So there are a lot of bugs to work out...

But I have to say IT IS NON CONDUCTIVE (happily) My seal on the cpu block was not on all the way and it sprayed most of the fluid in the system on my mobo and down onto my new 6600gt while it was powered on... NOT ONE PROBELM.. Good stuff!!.


Haven't got into a lot of o/c yet, doing gradually... I think my proccc is dying actually, I need a new one... before i could run the voltage higher and have no probs, but now it won't let me bump it up .5 before windows crashed.... SO.. I am ordering a new procc....I got the Amd Barton Athlon Xp 2600+ when it came out about 2 years ago... so I think it needs to be replaced...

 

[Punx_Clever]

Side note, the third wire is in fact a sensor, and I have one on mine. IT takes a different divider than a standard fan, but I thikn if you can make it divide by 4 it will tell you how fast your pump is spinning. I e-mailed Laing about it a while back and it's supposed to be at around 3600RPM