Black Ice Pro II ok?

[DanD]

Im building a custom water cooling system and moving my Koolance system to my server. Anyway should the Black Ice Pro II radiator be ok for this system. I already ordered it but just want some reassurance it will be enough to dissapate the heat i got. I wanted to get a Black Ice Extreme II but it was too think to fit in my case correctly so I had to opt for the thinner BI Pro II.

Parts ordered so far...
DD TDX 1/2"
PolarFlo TT GPU 1/2"
DD D4 12v Pump
5 1/4 Bay Res
Black Ice Pro II radiator.

Gonna be cooling system specs in signature.

 

[Bio-Hazard]

It's not the best rad out there, but it should work. Remember the greater the surface area the better the cooling..................

 

[Dark Ember]

I would be much more apt to recommend a heatercore from Danger Den, Dtek, or even getting one from Autozone and making it. They will work much better than any black ice product, especially the pros. Something to think about anyway...

 

[Optimummind]

Im building a custom water cooling system and moving my Koolance system to my server. Anyway should the Black Ice Pro II radiator be ok for this system. I already ordered it but just want some reassurance it will be enough to dissapate the heat i got. I wanted to get a Black Ice Extreme II but it was too think to fit in my case correctly so I had to opt for the thinner BI Pro II.

Parts ordered so far...
DD TDX 1/2"
PolarFlo TT GPU 1/2"
DD D4 12v Pump
5 1/4 Bay Res
Black Ice Pro II radiator.

Gonna be cooling system specs in signature.

I would've ordered a DangerDen 6800 waterblock instead of the Koolance one. I just ordered one myself today and I can't wait to try it out. From what I've read of the thing from few users, it works really great.

I got an email from DangerDen saying they have the parts in stock.

 

[thelostrican]

its a good radiator and you will be fine with it, i cool my cpu and gpu with one of those.build a shroud for it. i got mine outside my rig in the back, with 2 120mm panaflos pulling, i usually run the fans @ 7 volts and its great, because the rad its thin. overall i wouldnt change it, the only complaint is the price, if you dont care about it, then you are set.

 

[DanD]

I would've ordered a DangerDen 6800 waterblock instead of the Koolance one. I just ordered one myself today and I can't wait to try it out. From what I've read of the thing from few users, it works really great.

I got an email from DangerDen saying they have the parts in stock.

I have the koolance block atm with my koolance system on my GT. Ordered the Polarflo GPU TT block for this new setup.

 

[weapon--]

they are not too bad - but you could save yourself a lot of $ and likely get much better performance if you went to autozone, bought a '77 bonneville heatercore (without ac, fedco 2-199 for the easy mod) and then just trimmed the factory tubes for the inlet and outlet back to about 1 1/2" long. Dual 120s will fit on it and it shouldn't set you back more than $20. with a proper shroud, it will eat the black ice's lunch and come back for seconds...

for a slightly more difficult mod, get a 2-302, '77 bonneville with ac - you will have to remove the factory tubes and solder in new ones but it will seriously hammer a black ice. also about $20...with a little black gloss and some time, it can look like this:

with a shroud and fans attached:

 

[DanD]

they are not too bad - but you could save yourself a lot of $ and likely get much better performance if you went to autozone, bought a '77 bonneville heatercore (without ac, fedco 2-199 for the easy mod) and then just trimmed the factory tubes for the inlet and outlet back to about 1 1/2" long. Dual 120s will fit on it and it shouldn't set you back more than $20. with a proper shroud, it will eat the black ice's lunch and come back for seconds...

for a slightly more difficult mod, get a 2-302, '77 bonneville with ac - you will have to remove the factory tubes and solder in new ones but it will seriously hammer a black ice. also about $20...with a little black gloss and some time, it can look like this:

with a shroud and fans attached:

Thats a nice looking shroud/radiator you got modded there. Nice work. I have a clear acrylic case so space is extremely limited. Reason I went with the black ice pro2. Gonna get a normal Lian Li case and put in a nice heatercore in later cause i can hide that thing much better than in a total see through case. Should be ok then for the time being.

 

[thelostrican]

they are not too bad - but you could save yourself a lot of $ and likely get much better performance if you went to autozone, bought a '77 bonneville heatercore (without ac, fedco 2-199 for the easy mod) and then just trimmed the factory tubes for the inlet and outlet back to about 1 1/2" long. Dual 120s will fit on it and it shouldn't set you back more than $20. with a proper shroud, it will eat the black ice's lunch and come back for seconds...

for a slightly more difficult mod, get a 2-302, '77 bonneville with ac - you will have to remove the factory tubes and solder in new ones but it will seriously hammer a black ice. also about $20...with a little black gloss and some time, it can look like this:

with a shroud and fans attached:

want to build me one for testing, and i pick up the tab.

 

[EbolaZaire]

How'd you build that shroud? I've heard some discouraging things about the shroud you can order with the DangerDen double heatercore and am contemplating making my own, but I don't have any idea where to start.

 

[weapon--]

How'd you build that shroud? I've heard some discouraging things about the shroud you can order with the DangerDen double heatercore and am contemplating making my own, but I don't have any idea where to start.

the shroud in the above pic is made from 1/4" thick plexi.
making one goes something like this -- measure the core, measure the spacing you want for your fans, cut a top plate from the plexi that is about 5mm wider than the fans on all sides with a 5mm space between the two fans. For the '77 b'ville with ac (fedco 2-302) you need a rectangular top plate that is right at 255mm x 130mm. that will be the plate the fans are mounted upon - so, you need to space the fans on that plate and cut two 4.5" holes and then add the 4 mounting holes for each fan. once that is done, get some 1" or 1.25" nylon spacers from lowes and some six inch 4-40 threaded rods w/2 nuts and 2 washers for the threaded rods (you will need 8 threaded rods, 16 4-40 nuts and 16 #4 washers). thread the rods thru the core so they line up with the 8 holes you drilled in the top plate for the fan mounting - slip the nylon spacers onto the threaded rods once they are thru the core and then sit the plate on top of the spacers. From there, measure and cut 2 side panels that will form the diagional side plates and 2 for the top and bottom plates. Use acrylic solvent cement to bond those to the top plate and let it dry over night. Sand and smooth corners and seams as needed - prime and paint. From there, you just slide the fans on the threaded rods, add the washers and nuts on the tops of the fans and the back side of the core and thats about it.

they can also be bent out of metal - I have a few I have made from either 22 gauge, 24g or 26g. they have brazed seams and are fairly bulletproof.

the core above had metal side plates silver soldered onto the sides of the core to get rid of the wavy sided look -- it also makes the core a bit stronger. The fins on the outer edge of the cores are bent way too easily so I added a little armor plating to them.

just sent one off that was made from 22g - it was a full enclosure for a top mount with an internal venturi shroud. the core and the venturi were totally enclosed in the outer shell - it turned out like this:

want to build me one for testing, and i pick up the tab.

I have a new one that is getting more tweakage added to it - it should have more airflow and better waterflow. if you want something to test, wait until I get that one finished.

 

[thelostrican]

the shroud in the above pic is made from 1/4" thick plexi.
making one goes something like this -- measure the core, measure the spacing you want for your fans, cut a top plate from the plexi that is about 5mm wider than the fans on all sides with a 5mm space between the two fans. For the '77 b'ville with ac (fedco 2-302) you need a rectangular top plate that is right at 255mm x 130mm. that will be the plate the fans are mounted upon - so, you need to space the fans on that plate and cut two 4.5" holes and then add the 4 mounting holes for each fan. once that is done, get some 1" or 1.25" nylon spacers from lowes and some six inch 4-40 threaded rods w/2 nuts and 2 washers for the threaded rods (you will need 8 threaded rods, 16 4-40 nuts and 16 #4 washers). thread the rods thru the core so they line up with the 8 holes you drilled in the top plate for the fan mounting - slip the nylon spacers onto the threaded rods once they are thru the core and then sit the plate on top of the spacers. From there, measure and cut 2 side panels that will form the diagional side plates and 2 for the top and bottom plates. Use acrylic solvent cement to bond those to the top plate and let it dry over night. Sand and smooth corners and seams as needed - prime and paint. From there, you just slide the fans on the threaded rods, add the washers and nuts on the tops of the fans and the back side of the core and thats about it.

they can also be bent out of metal - I have a few I have made from either 22 gauge, 24g or 26g. they have brazed seams and are fairly bulletproof.

the core above had metal side plates silver soldered onto the sides of the core to get rid of the wavy sided look -- it also makes the core a bit stronger. The fins on the outer edge of the cores are bent way too easily so I added a little armor plating to them.

just sent one off that was made from 22g - it was a full enclosure for a top mount with an internal venturi shroud. the core and the venturi were totally enclosed in the outer shell - it turned out like this:

I have a new one that is getting more tweakage added to it - it should have more airflow and better waterflow. if you want something to test, wait until I get that one finished.

i am actually looking not only to test but to buy, got something for me?

 

[weapon--]

i am actually looking not only to test but to buy, got something for me?

what kind of loop are you running? i.e. which block(s) and what pump?
dual pass cores the size of the ones I posted above require a pump with good flow and fairly high max head for optimum performance. On the other hand, provided you have a pump that can hack it, they can provide serious heat removal. dual pass cores are also a little more pleasing to the eye (as they appear more symetrical than single pass) and they are usually easier to mount because the inlet and outlet are placed side-by-side.

single pass cores -
lower flow rate hit
still very high cooling capacity
can be a little harder to mount due to inlet and outlet being on opposite sides of the core
right paint and shroud = still looks like pimpage.

pm me - otherwise, this will become an unavoidable and massive threadjacking.