Best watercooling equipment

J

jpopa

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 8, 2003
Messages
252
Anyone know where to get a good top of the line watercooling kit for my pc? I need to cool an amd athlon xp, the chipset on an asus a7n8x dx, and a radeon 9800 pro. I'm looking for 1/2 inch tubing, and a raging pump. Thanks!
 
how should i run things?

like



rez-> pump > cpu > chipset > rez ?

let me know, thanks kids
 
well u missed out the rad for starters.

most people have it setup like this:

pump -> CPU -> other blocks -> rad -> res

i know most people have already seen it, but here is mine for a reference on a closed loop without a reservoir. I like it this way alot because it looks tidy and I don't have to change the water for months and months.

newgamingsystem02.jpg
 
Lets not forget the D-Tec White Water. (formally Little River) I've got one in my system and it does a pretty damn good job.
My system:
D-Tec White Water CPU block
Maxijet 1200 Pump
B&M 3" x 2" x 11" oil cooler
About 18 feet of 1/2" ID nylon braid tubing
Custom 1.5 gallon plexi reservior
Window AC unit.

I have the cooler mounted inside the AC unit right after the cooling core (it actually rests against it) and the reservior sitting in the windowsill next to it. The pump sits on the bottom of my case. With this configuration, my CPU (Barton 2500+) is ALWAYS lower temp than my mobo. The hottest I have been able to get it is 29*C and that was after 3 hours of playing COD and then running Prime95 for 6 hours. Idle temp usually hovers somewhere between 23* and 25*C. At this very minute SiSoft Sandra is reporting CPU @ 27*C and mobo @ 29*C.
 
I've heard mixed results with the Maze 4. It's a good water block but people who switched from a Maze 3 found their temps went up a couple degrees.

The white waters are really good but a little more pricey.
 
ok, i got the whitewater... my only question is... it has 3 1/2" fittings.... how do you rig that up?
 
you have the water flowing into the block in the middle. Then you have 2 pieces of tubing that are the same length attached to the other two side fittings. Then you use a Y adapter and connect the two exit tubes to the double part of the Y and then another piece of tubing that goes to the res/rad.
 
thanks :D such a noob here. you could say im a water virgin... ANYWAY so im thinking this is how it should be?


Pump (Hydor L30)
V
WB(D-Tek White Water)
V
WB(Z-Chip Chipset WB)
V
WB(SMCW50 Radeon WB)
V
Rad(Black Ice Xtreme)
V
Rez(Circle thingy rez)
 
Well, I don't understand why people like kits so much. I did my very first water cooled computer without a kit.

I'd get a car's heater core, and cut off the barbs and solder on new ones. I did that to a 1986 chevette core, no issues.

Then go for whatever blocks you want (WW, z-chip, maze4 GPU or swifty equivalent)

Also, try out the Danner Mag3 or Eheim 1250. I've owned both and can vouch for them being excellent pumps. The Mag3 is slightly more powerful than the 1250, and cheaper/smaller too.

I use a T with a cap for my fill line. I used to have a Bay-res, but I wanted something that wouldn't let bubbles into my system when I moved it, and was tidier.

I also went the resless/t-less way like the above poster for a while, but it was a PITA to bleed.
 
Well I wouldn't mind that, and I ended up only using a kit cause it saved me ~10 on the pieces I got. i would also prefer to get parts i dont have to work with to get them the way i want them. thats the same reason they sell pre modded cases. it makes life easy. ok, so more ?'s... i got this rez
resnew_large.jpg


it looks like that will allow me to fill the system right from that without having to use a T with a plug... correct?
 
thanks for the help. im sure when it all gets here(next week) i will be back asking all kinds of questions
 
Well, kits in and of themselves aren't so evil... especially the dtek/dangerden kits. However, I royally dislike the BlackIce products. I feel they are a waste of money for what is basically a repainted car heater core, and they tend to come with kits.

Hmmm, do I want to buy a bix2 extreme for $100+, or buy a caprice core and mod it for $25 (including parts/fuel/tax)
 
Well considering the BIX2 extreme has 2 120mm fans on it and it is not $100 everywhere, it can be had for $76.00 here http://www.directron.com/xtreme2.html . So I dont really think that you are comparing apples to apples here. Not to mention one of the you dont need to to mod and solder/or weld on and it has more fans and more surface area. For some people time is money. And they would rather pick a raadiator for $50 more that you dont have to mod and it better to boot.
 
i always thought it was better to have ur config like this:

pump/rez > rad > block(s) > back to pump/rez.

does going: pump/rez > blocks > rad > pump again better for low temps?:confused:
 
Originally posted by enforcer17
well u missed out the rad for starters.

most people have it setup like this:

pump -> CPU -> other blocks -> rad -> res

i know most people have already seen it, but here is mine for a reference on a closed loop without a reservoir. I like it this way alot because it looks tidy and I don't have to change the water for months and months.

newgamingsystem02.jpg
Click to expand...

what are your temps looking like with that setup?
 
You're telling me the BIX2 is better than a caprice core? Have you seen the caprice core? They're about the same size. Performance should be able the same, at 1/3 the cost, and an extra fifteen minutes of modding. If you make $200 an hour, by all means, go for the BIX2.
 
great opinion klepto, want to stop shoving it down peoples throats?
 
In all honesty, it is merely a good performing, cheap alternative to the BIX2. You asked for my opinion, you got it, and you don't have to flame me for trying to help you. It doesn't get you very far.
 
yes but you posted your opinion again 2 times AFTER i had given your first opinion, like somehow we didnt get it the first time.... like the only way was your way... enforcer and i both said some people just dont want to do it that way...

You're telling me the BIX2 is better than a caprice core? Have you seen the caprice core? They're about the same size. Performance should be able the same, at 1/3 the cost, and an extra fifteen minutes of modding. If you make $200 an hour, by all means, go for the BIX2
Click to expand...

Well, kits in and of themselves aren't so evil... especially the dtek/dangerden kits. However, I royally dislike the BlackIce products. I feel they are a waste of money for what is basically a repainted car heater core, and they tend to come with kits. Hmmm, do I want to buy a bix2 extreme for $100+, or buy a caprice core and mod it for $25 (including parts/fuel/tax)
Click to expand...

Well, I don't understand why people like kits so much. I did my very first water cooled computer without a kit.

I'd get a car's heater core, and cut off the barbs and solder on new ones. I did that to a 1986 chevette core, no issues.

Then go for whatever blocks you want (WW, z-chip, maze4 GPU or swifty equivalent)

Also, try out the Danner Mag3 or Eheim 1250. I've owned both and can vouch for them being excellent pumps. The Mag3 is slightly more powerful than the 1250, and cheaper/smaller too.

I use a T with a cap for my fill line. I used to have a Bay-res, but I wanted something that wouldn't let bubbles into my system when I moved it, and was tidier.

I also went the resless/t-less way like the above poster for a while, but it was a PITA to bleed.
Click to expand...
 
You hadn't posted your opinion of it. I defend my ideas, and I provide backup for them. I'm not going to make a blind suggestion and run off.

The first was a pure suggestion, the second was a response to the subject of kits, the third was a retort to an uninformed statement about performance and cost. It'll take two 120mm fans, it has nice round holes, it is easy to mod, and is a perfectly valid suggestion.

You asked, you received, don't flame the person who tries to help. There were a ton of people recommending BIXes all the time not so long ago, without having explored other options. Is it wrong to try to let people see what a $17.99 heater core can do? No. Is it wrong to stand by your statements? No. Is it wrong to flame those who help? Yes.

It's like you didn't get it when you signed up last month that this is a forum where people are free to discuss topics. Discussion does not mean one post per person per thread, quite the contrary. We generally look down on people that abandon their stance and run off and hide.

Please take your attitude and stuff it.
 
no in every post you had said just mod a caprice core, just in a different way. each consisted of a) reason to do so, b) costs, and c) what to do. if each post had one of these points each i wouldnt care. it's just that it seems like you wanted to just drill the subject. and yeah i know i can get a caprice. but price isn't everything. yes it may preform just as well as a BIX, but so what? i like astetics. how many people do you know with a chromed mobo and chromed radeon? thats why i got a black ice xtreme. if you wanted the case to look its best, would you want:

cooling-system-core.jpg


or....
BIXtreme_med.jpg



also, size comes to play. i know you can get heater cores somewhat small, but the BIX is smaller in almost all cases(unless you have maybe an isetta's core :p) and it cools just as well. so time + money + mod time and money for the auto core vs. the time and money for the BIX is worth it to me.
 
Originally posted by kleptophobiac
You're telling me the BIX2 is better than a caprice core? Have you seen the caprice core? They're about the same size. Performance should be able the same, at 1/3 the cost, and an extra fifteen minutes of modding. If you make $200 an hour, by all means, go for the BIX2.
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I am telling you. They are not about the same size. One is much longer than the other one. Let me see you fit 2 120's on the front of a Caprice core and have those 120's not going off on any sides and blowing only on metal. Not gonna happen unless you fit one on the front and one on the back. And if you want to go that route you can always fit 4 120's on a BIX2 that way.

And you must be a much faster modder than me to be able to get the caprice core, get out all the equipment to cut the tubes, the soldering gun, solder, mod it, then clean up in 15 minutes. For some people it just inst worth it. Thats why you can buy a barbed caprice cores.

You need to understand that for some people kits are easier than piecing out all the equipment yourself. If you are into cars at all you should be able to see this clearly. Some people would rather pay more and get equal or even lesser performance so they dont have to mess with anything. Thats just the way it is. Now you can stuff it.
 
If you really want to break it down -
trip to the wreckers yard - 10min to an hour (if you have to get it out yourself)
time to remove barbs - 5 minutes
time to get new barbs, 10min-?
money to solder on new barbs... well, soldering iron/blow torch, solder etc, flux...
clean up rad... 10 min-?
paint rad?
etc etc
really you are looking at at least 3 hours work, not 15... and then there is the added costs. Not everyone has a blow torch and a suitable place to do it floating around 'out back' *huuk*

At the end of the day its personal preference... if you have the time, the heatercore will more than likely provide you with similar if not better results... if you simply are lazy, dont have the time nor equipment or just hate the looks and the idea of modding a heater core, then each to their own.

I personally will use a heatercore when i begin modding, but thats because there is more of a variety of choice when it comes to heatercores, and i plan to build my own case, water blocks, the whole works... that is, of course, when i have the place floating around to do it ;)
 
I never said it looked good, mainly because I don't care. I don't have windows, I don't do LED's, I don't have ccfl's. From my point of view, its the best solution. Autozone and home depot are right next to each other, so buying stuff would be 10mins to get there, 10 mins of shopping, 10 mins to get back. Plus, I never said anything about time to obtain these things, it was time to perform the mod.

Getting the old barbs out is a few minutes, putting new ones in is a few minutes. Why would I use a soldering pencil when I have a torch?

Good grief, you people are testy.

Here's another suggestion, you could go with a chevette core too.

Here's what I would do:

Dtek WW
1/2" clearflex
Danner Mag3 pump
Chevette/Caprice heater core
Panaflo L1A/M1A
DD Maze4 GPU or Swiftech GPU block

But that's just me. You're free to ignore, listen to me, or just make note of my statements and move on.

Personally, I would not use a Hydor or a Via pump, but that's just due to bad personal experiences with them, and I've heard others praise them highly. Just like I wouldn't use a BI product (too damn costly, and I like spending time on my hobby anyway... why would you overclock if time is money to you?) because they're too expensve, and too blingy.
 
well ok due to all the arguing, im going to try both suggestions. right now im about to head out to get some parts, wish me luck :D (10 degrees out and im going to u-wrench-it)
 
ok so i got a core, but it wasnt from uwrench it. i got one from a parts car(1984 300zx) suprisingly in OK condition, little rust which i will sand off. also, it's about 6" by 6" approx. so i will have to mount 2 fans, BUT i know exactly how im going to do this. a while back there was a /. article about a guy who baked his plexi, so im gonna try that to make a custom 120mm fan adapter. and then i will add one on front. hopefully this will turn out ok. then after that im going to polish the core up as much as poss and put a black paint on the outer edge and then IF things go right i will drill into the side of the plexi and insert a few LEDs. we'll see. keep watch on this cause i hope to do this tonight
 
I used a $0.39 sandwich box from walmart, cut it up, and stuck it onto the heater core. Cheap as hell, and highly effective.
 
holy hell, you're going to go deaf!

I think my box is unacceptably loud running four panaflo L1A's....
 
Originally posted by jpopa
how should i run things?

like



rez-> pump > cpu > chipset > rez ?

let me know, thanks kids
Click to expand...

you need a rad, that goes before the cpu.
 
yeah, i got those tornados a LONG time ago and at the time i was like, "holy sh*t! 80cfm on an 80mm fan for 9?!?!?! i'll get 5!!!!" when they arrived i installed them all right then and powered up. all the dogs in the neighborhood still attack me...
 
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