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Best watercooling block

H

HybridLifeRemixx

n00b
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
18
im getting a 3500+ winchester, whats the best watercooling block and a good pump for it? i have a radiator from freshcooling.tk and i need a resevoir, and coolant too what would everyone suggest? :confused: ive heard nothing good about anything
 
how expensive?
*the* best would arguably be the storm G5.. but it's pure silver, so.. $$$
if you get a high flow pump, the dd rbx or tdx works quite nicely, and isn't too expensive.
with a lower flow pump, the swiftech 6000 or 6002 do pretty well.
 
i know it sounds newbieish but it would be nice to have it lit up with a led also. trying to make it look cool to other viewers :p
 
not one WITH a led, but having modded my own dangerden block (maze 4-1) i can say that dangerden blocks take pretty easily to modification, and that you could put your own led into a RBX or TDX block.

there is some luxite plastic that sticks out to form part of the retention system. you could drill into that area, and superglue a led in there. to be clear: i am talking about the area out past where the metal ends, so you are not drilling over an area that seals or contains water.

as for coolant and additive: de-ionized (distilled) water and royal purple/purple ice/water wetter works well.

pumps.............whatever is available, has the output that you are looking for at the head you will be running at and is in your pricerange. go to an aquarium specialty store.
 
thanks alot man you helped out alot, 2 more questions, what is the head most people get, and also, how much do i have to worry about condensation in my case from water cooling? im really worried ima fry something? this is the first tiem ive water-cooled.
 
condensation is not a concern unless you are using thermoelectrics in combination with your watercooling solution.

i AM using thermoelectrics, and i have applied waterproof coating to all of my PCBs and rubbed dielectric greas on all my pins and slots. you should not need to worry about that.

as for head...........i went with 3x the actual height that i am pumping to when i worked out how much head that i would be running, to take into account all the bends in the tubing and the impingement from my waterblocks.

if you assume a 1.5 m head, and select your pump to have adequate flow to that height, you should be safe, with a fair bit of overkill. since you are using normal blocks, as opposed to thermoelectrics, you might want to look at dangerden's default option and select something with similar flow characteristics.
 
now what is "head" and thermoelectric? like petlier? and hwo well does petlier work i saw something that was a 220Watt petleir thing i dont know what it is it has power leads and its a peice of metal? what is it used for?
 
if the pump that you are buying is reputable, it should include a chart that lists how much water (galons/minute) it will pump to to a given height

head is basically just a measure of how much resistance the pump is working against. the pump will pump more water, faster, along the flat than it will up a hill. the pump should say how much water it will pump (galons/minute) up a given hill (feet of head). that's simplifing it a bit, but..............

thermoelectrics == peltier in this case.

they let you chill down the CPU below room temperature.

trust me: it is too much trouble for you to bother with.

they are expensive to buy. expensive to maintan. need a bigger rad. need waterproofing. need saftey shutdown hardware. bigger pump. dedicated 12 volt PSU. extra cabling. fatter hoses. more headaches..............

trust me: don't do it.

i have killed a lot of hardware before i got this rig up and running smoothly.

i had the choice of going thermoelectric A32 or going A64 last year. i chose to go thermoelectric. in many ways, i regret it.

all that being said, once you have it working, you can keep it for a long time. i plan to port my current cooling over to A64 this summer.
 
coool, thanks man you really really helped me out alot. i needed to have this stuff explained or i would have never learned. ill stay away from petlier cooling for now then. im buying my rad from www.freshcooling.tk do you think it will be big enough for 2 SLI Geforce 6600's and a 3500+ 64bit? and possibly a chipset cooler since i will be going with a A8n - SLI since i havent heard anything good with the chaintech SLI or the DFI Lan party SLI.
 
forget the chipset cooling, at least while you start, it will kill your flow, that rad will be able to take it....and go for the dfi, pretty good board some issues here and there, most of them behind the keyboard, there are a lot of options, and not everybody can deal with them.....but of the bunch, i think is the best board
my 2 cents

best block, g5, for a little less a g4, the nexxos xp is great too, best bang for the buck the swiftech 6002, or 6000
good luck
 
which DFI can dual SLI? and i need a good bord for OC'ing and i need atleast 5.1 audio. ive heard alotta good things about the Asus, but what is the advantages of the DFI? and which specific SLI model are you talking about
 
thelostrican said:
forget the chipset cooling, at least while you start, it will kill your flow, that rad will be able to take it....and go for the dfi, pretty good board some issues here and there, most of them behind the keyboard, there are a lot of options, and not everybody can deal with them.....but of the bunch, i think is the best board
my 2 cents

best block, g5, for a little less a g4, the nexxos xp is great too, best bang for the buck the swiftech 6002, or 6000
good luck
Click to expand...

agreed, so far as cooling goes. i can only choose between dangerden and swiftec, where i live. at the time that i built my rig, dangerden has better thermoelectric offerings.

it would take a miracle for me to use DFI product agin, so far as motherboards are concerned, though.

have you looked at teh AV8 3rd eye and the AX8 3rd eye? i have had a MUCH better experience with Abit than with my DFI. the AN8 only has single channel memory, and although that is not as big a deal on A64 as it is on A32, i regard that as a strike against it. as for asus.............i had isues with my A7N8X deluxe rev. 2.0, and i understand that little details like thermal protection shutoff have yet to be resolved with asus' current s939 offering.
 
1) It sounds like you are doing first time H2O Cooling. if you have decent budget this is what I would recommend.

a) PUMP -> MCP600 Rev2. might be hard to find but aquaextreme 50 is same pump. Blocks are getting more restrictive and there is nothing like having good head (torque in car engine sense) pump as it will retain better water flow.
b) Radiator -> Don't know how good the one you mentioned is but heatercores will always be better option other than aesthetic. Make shroud yourself to remove dead zone.
c) Blocks -> If having both GPU and CPU with single pump, I suggest either going MCW-600x + Silverprop Fusion HL or DD TDX + Maze4 GPU (or MCW50). Best blocks for these price range would be TDX+Silverprop Fusion HL but the restriction is so high with single pump that you will be most likely losing performance under the condition.

For reference I use dual heatercore + 2 MCP 600 rev2 in series, Storm G4 (very restrictive) and silverprop fusion HL. Temp is as good as it will get in watercooling setup but cost of setup probably is double what typical good H2O system would be.
 
does anyone here with liquid cooling have a system that shuts the water off a certain amount of time after the computer shuts off? for like saftey or anything? is it needed and if so how do i do it
 
i don't think that setting it up to keep the pump running is necessary or benificial.

convection currents will keep the fluid moving somewhat as the system cools off, and with a watercooling rig, there is no reason to let you cooland temps exceed 40 - 45 C, meaning that you processor thinks that things are positively FROSTY.
 
Just a note to DFI Daishi....your concept of what head is needed for in pumps is off. The height of the system has nothing to do with anything. It is a closed loop, taking out the resistance of pumping through lengths of tubing...a closed loop that is 200ft high and a closed loop 2 ft high would both pump at the same flow. The reason why you need good head pressure is merely to overcome the restriction of the waterblocks and what not.

Pumps like the D4 which have good head pressure but not as much flow as say an eheim 1250 will actually perform better. If you look at a graph that has a pumps PQ curve and the resistance curve of a loop you can see that the pumps with higher head and lower flow more often than not will have a higher flow in a real watercooling loop thanks to their increased head pressure.
 
so......someone who is new to watercooling asks me what head is, and i am suppsoed to give him a fully developed answer including all the intricies of flow impingement of his blocks and what bends in his coolant tubes will do? should i also include industry guidelines and sample equations?

i noted in my explanation that i was simplifing it. specifically, i was trying to provide a description of what head is measuring, in terms of a situation that is easy for someone with little or no background in science or pumps to grasp.

i did not, in fact, reccomend high flow, vs high head. instead, i reccomended that he make a reasonable assumption of the amount of head that his system will need, and then select a pump that provides adequate flow at the level of head.

now, i could be mis-remembering, but when i made my WB purchase, the manufacturer gave no actual numbers regarding how much impingement their block generates.

so, for my own system, i worked out the worst case heat output for all of my hardware, assumed that manufacturer specs on my rad were at least CLOSE to reality, and worked out how much flow i needed to keep a reasonable component temperature. i then pick a pump that would give a bit more flow than that, at double the head that i though that i would be running, and here i am now.

room is a about 25 C coolant is at about 40 C and diode reads 14 C, while priming.
 
thank you dfi, you helped out alot and told me in an idiot proof way what it ment, thats all i needed, not an in-depth 4 paragraph thing explaining it, just the basics, :-P... you live, and learn. ive been workin with computers for a long time, this was the first time ive done water cooling and i just needed to know the basics so i could learn more.. everyone is a n00b as sometime in there life, and once a new thing comes into there life there a noob at that untill they learn... ie.. me in water cooling
 
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