Best Water Block

[Erasmus354]

Isn't the whole point of the G7 (and the G-series in general) is that it is the best performing water-block at every level bar the lowest of flows.

So in every situation (bar the lowest flow setup) the G7 would be the best choice, including using it with a reserator.
A G7 + a reserator would probably = lower temps than any other block mated with a reserator.

Just because the G7 is considered the best performing block when at higher flows, doesn't mean people have to use the best performing high flow radiator with it. They should get improved performance just plugging the G7 into their existing setup as the G-series is designed to be the 'best block' at a range of flows, whether mated with a higher flow chevvy heater core, BIXs and TCs or lower flow EVOs, reserators and passives.

Hopefully Cathar will come along and point us in the right direction.

I am not referring to flow when I said choking. I am saying that the reserator isn't the best cooling radiator, unless you put a big fan blowing over it which defeats the point. If you want the reserator then you want silence, and frankly any number of blocks would perform very similar when you are using a radiator such as the reserator.

I just dont see the point in spending 150$++ on a waterblock that is the best performing and then choking its performance by not having a radiator that performs up to par with the waterblock.

 

[J-Pepper]

What you have to understand here is that Happy Hopping seems to be set on having his radiator outside the case based on his comments here and in other threads. Seems that he doesn't think you can get good/better performance by having a radiator mounted inside the system case.

Ah icic.. i was under the impression he already had a reserator and was wanting to improve performance by just changing the cpu block.

 

[nealio]

wow I had no idea this thread would be flaming , in any case I'm still looking for answers, Ill be back in sf on Monday to talk with our thermal engineer, but until then, if I were to go with a high flowing system, what would be the best components? I know everyone has their own opinion and I appreciate everyone’s, so lets keep it clean and no shots below the belt

Lets start with CPU block:

Then GPU

Chipset

Then HD

Something that I left out before, but what about a rad? what rads do you guys use and why?

Tubing, 1/2"??? res vs no res?


Mind you the GPU has to be SLI block, right now I have one 850XTplat but I’m thinking about getting two 6800’s.

Thanks for all your help so far guys/gals

 

[HiJon89]

For a good system without spending an arm and a leg I'd recommend:
AquaXtreme MP-05 - $65
Maze 4 Acetal - $45
No Chipset Block
No HD Block
Black Ice Pro 3 - $45
DangerDen D5 - $75
8 ft. of Clearflex 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Tubing - $10
1/2" T-Line - $2
12 Oz. Bottle of Zerex - $9

 

[nealio]

For a good system without spending an arm and a leg I'd recommend:
AquaXtreme MP-05 - $65
Maze 4 Acetal - $45
No Chipset Block
No HD Block
Black Ice Pro 3 - $45
DangerDen D5 - $75
8 ft. of Clearflex 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Tubing - $10
1/2" T-Line - $2
12 Oz. Bottle of Zerex - $9

thanks for the quick response, but I need a chipset block, I have the a8n sli deluxe, and the chipset fan crap out on me, so I added a new line and just used my old koolance block for my GPU on my chipset. I really love this mobo, and I bought it to upgrade with, that being said, what chipset block would you use? that koolance block would definitely not fit in that setup that you had there.

 

[HiJon89]

thanks for the quick response, but I need a chipset block, I have the a8n sli deluxe, and the chipset fan crap out on me, so I added a new line and just used my old koolance block for my GPU on my chipset. I really love this mobo, and I bought it to upgrade with, that being said, what chipset block would you use? that koolance block would definitely not fit in that setup that you had there.

This is probably your best bet: http://dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=160&cat=46&page=1

 

[Cathar]

Isn't the whole point of the G7 (and the G-series in general) is that it is the best performing water-block at every level bar the lowest of flows.

My goal was to offer second-to-none performance down to 1LPM, and then to stretch its legs (and its lead) at anything above that. The only blocks that could potentially perform any better at flows <1LPM would be the thick base-plated blocks, such as the MCW6000's. I'm still establishing low-flow performance results in an actual system (hit a minor snag in the last week with respect to controlling super-low flows), but that's how the theory works out and without meaning to sound smug, so far the theory has been matching the actual results with the results I've gathered so far.

 

[Russ]

thanks for the quick response, but I need a chipset block, I have the a8n sli deluxe, and the chipset fan crap out on me, so I added a new line and just used my old koolance block for my GPU on my chipset. I really love this mobo, and I bought it to upgrade with, that being said, what chipset block would you use? that koolance block would definitely not fit in that setup that you had there.

http://jab-tech.com/Zalman-Northbridge-Cooler-ZM-NB47J-pr-1829.html
^Use that for a chipset cooler.

Lets start with CPU block:
Storm = $75

Then GPU
MCW55 = ~$48 (x 2 = $96)
Ramsinks = $10

Chipset
Zalman passive = $6

Then HD
none.

Something that I left out before, but what about a rad? what rads do you guys use and why?
For a big one, any 3x120mm rad will be fine. Take the cheapest one.

Tubing, 1/2"??? res vs no res?
7/16" Masterkleer, 10ft = $5

MCRES-525 (5 1/4" drive res) = $18

All from www.jab-tech.com

 

[DFI Daishi]

you need to have some pretty unusual system requirements to need a HDD cooler.

i would suggest that you use some software to take a look at what your HDD SMART reported temps are like, and if they are lower than manufacturer ratings (usually about 55C) than you shouldn't worry too much, since you are not going to be overclocking your HDD or doing anything else to require lower than rated opperating temps.

even if your HDD is running a bit hot, a very low CFM 20 db fan, or a passive cooler can probably do the job.

so far as chipset watercooling on your board goes, the DD maze 4 chipset block for asus is one of the very few big-bore chipset blocks that will do the job.

i would honestly look at modding a good aftermarket chipset air cooler to fit your install FAR before watercooling that chipset, if i were you.

 

[Happy Hopping]

What you have to understand here is that Happy Hopping seems to be set on having his radiator outside the case based on his comments here and in other threads. Seems that he doesn't think you can get good/better performance by having a radiator mounted inside the system case.

Actually, I'm not the one who said having a radiator mounted inside won't work. The First Law of Thermodynamics -- The Law of Conservation of Mass and Energy, tells me that.

If you have any doubt on a decade old first principle of physics, go ahead and debunk it in unverisity like Yale or Princeton.

Meanwhile, get it over your head -- your computer is enclosed in a metal case, that case is what physics defines as a "Closed System" The temp. of a Closed System is the same. You bring the heat off the CPU/GPU, then dissipate those heat 1 ft. lower w/i that Closed System. Those heat travel around the Closed System, heat up the temp. of every components again. What you done is counter productive.

 

[Happy Hopping]

The reserator would probably be choking the G7. If you are going to get such a high performing waterblock why get a piss poor radiator (in terms of cooling performance)?

If G5 or G7 can only make a 3 degree C or less difference, then I'll go w/ one of those that you mentioned instead.

If G5 or G7 can make a 5 degree C or higher difference, I'll definitely go w/ it.

I know Zalman is average only, but it is totally sclience, and I don't OC anyway.

 

[Erasmus354]

If G5 or G7 can only make a 3 degree C or less difference, then I'll go w/ one of those that you mentioned instead.

If G5 or G7 can make a 5 degree C or higher difference, I'll definitely go w/ it.

I know Zalman is average only, but it is totally sclience, and I don't OC anyway.

In that case the G5/G7 is a complete and utter waste. Get the Zalman Reserator, a Swiftech MCW6000 and call it a day. (The reserator already has a pump inside the tower so you dont need another one). That will provide you with decent temps and complete silence.

 

[DFI Daishi]

Actually, I'm not the one who said having a radiator mounted inside won't work. The First Law of Thermodynamics -- The Law of Conservation of Mass and Energy, tells me that.

If you have any doubt on a decade old first principle of physics, go ahead and debunk it in unverisity like Yale or Princeton.

Meanwhile, get it over your head -- your computer is enclosed in a metal case, that case is what physics defines as a "Closed System" The temp. of a Closed System is the same. You bring the heat off the CPU/GPU, then dissipate those heat 1 ft. lower w/i that Closed System. Those heat travel around the Closed System, heat up the temp. of every components again. What you done is counter productive.

hey bright-boy, there is one minor problem with your bit of reasoning: your case isn't a closed system.

the box is made of metal, meaning that it conducts heat pretty well from the inner face to the outer face, and then radiates the heat to the room. even at a first year level, anyone who has done any thermal physics at all should realize that if you want to simulate a closed system even roughly, you use an insulated container.

now, the much larger issue is that you case has an even better heat outlet than the walls: vent holes and fans that move air through them. if you mount a rad in a case, you usually place the thing such that it blows air through a hole in the case from inside the box to the outside, or outside the box to the inside. you should NEVER be moving air from within the case to another location inside of the case, because that defeats the purpose of watercooling.

do you think that the people using internally mounted rads are brain-dead or something?

 

[revenant]

the box is made of metal, meaning that it conducts heat pretty well from the inner face to the outer face, and then radiates the heat to the room. even at a first year level, anyone who has done any thermal physics at all should realize that if you want to simulate a closed system even roughly, you use an insulated container.

we used to use styrofoam containers for calorimeters in chem lab... I guess you could put the whole PC in one of those styro-coolers if you wanted to simulate a closed system with a cheap apparatus.. ... ohh - just thinking about that much styrofoam makes my skin crawl.. that squeeky sound it makes when you rub it.. lol

 

[Happy Hopping]

now, the much larger issue is that you case has an even better heat outlet than the walls: vent holes and fans that move air through them. if you mount a rad in a case, you usually place the thing such that it blows air through a hole in the case from inside the box to the outside, or outside the box to the inside. you should NEVER be moving air from within the case to another location inside of the case, because that defeats the purpose of watercooling.

You think I don't know that? Look at his case (Bio-H), his rad. is at the bottom, show me a fan moving the hot air from the rad to the outside?

do you think that the people using internally mounted rads are brain-dead or something?

Quite frankly, yeah I do. I see no logic, and no pt. to force the water cooling sys. to do all the extra work, in which a 2 sec. soln. is to PUT THE RAD OUTSIDE.

And in case you didn't notice, there is a significant temp. difference btwn. the interior of the metal case vs. outside the case rm. temp. So even if you are right, and it's not a 100% Closed System, it's pretty damn close.

 

[zer0signal667]

You think I don't know that? Look at his case (Bio-H), his rad. is at the bottom, show me a fan moving the hot air from the rad to the outside?



Quite frankly, yeah I do. I see no logic, and no pt. to force the water cooling sys. to do all the extra work, in which a 2 sec. soln. is to PUT THE RAD OUTSIDE.

And in case you didn't notice, there is a significant temp. difference btwn. the interior of the metal case vs. outside the case rm. temp. So even if you are right, and it's not a 100% Closed System, it's pretty damn close.

.... Basically everyone with a radiator mounted in or on their case has it exhausting or intaking to/from outside the case, NOT recirculating inside a closed case. You're still failing to recognize that there are fans moving air in and out of the case. Even if you just have a power supply fan, your case is not a closed system. Now please take any further arguments to PM - this has little to do with the topic of the thread.

 

[penguin]

we used to use styrofoam containers for calorimeters in chem lab... I guess you could put the whole PC in one of those styro-coolers if you wanted to simulate a closed system with a cheap apparatus.. ... ohh - just thinking about that much styrofoam makes my skin crawl.. that squeeky sound it makes when you rub it.. lol

I used two styrofoam cups nested togethor for a calorimeter... The wonders of Homeschooling. Ghetto science lab. Worked pretty well, though.

Anyway, I still give my vote for the Storm g5/57 or the PolarFlo TT.

Pretty sad, coming from a guy who bought a TDX

 

[ikellensbro]

Back to the Reserator + Eheim 1048 block choice, remember to unplug, or preferably remove the puny Eheim compact pump that comes with the Reserator, as simply sticking the 1048 in the loop won't help very much. Like Erasmus said, a 6000 (or 6002 if you want to replace the Reserator's fitting to be 1/2" for more performance) would be your best bet, the main reason why a G5/G7 would be pointless is that it would give you a couple degrees improvement over a 6000, but the cost diffeence between the two blocks could be spent on a BIP2 or BIX2 and a D5 or DDC, which would give you a much bigger performance increase. Heck, with a D5 or DDC, you could use a TDX (with accelerator plates) or WhiteWater to see even more performance, for just a couple bucks more than the 6000.

If you did get a new pump, radiator, and block, you're making a new loop at this point anyway. Just stick a 6000 (6002 if you want 1/2") and Eheim 1048 (removing or turning off the puny Eheim compact) in the loop, and you'll definately see some better temps, for about $70-$80 (less if you buy used).

 

[el rolio]

storm storm storm and oh so pretty!

 

[Happy Hopping]

If you did get a new pump, radiator, and block, you're making a new loop at this point anyway. Just stick a 6000 (6002 if you want 1/2") and Eheim 1048 (removing or turning off the puny Eheim compact) in the loop, and you'll definately see some better temps, for about $70-$80 (less if you buy used).

thanks for the info. I try to reply earlier, but this board was down.

 

[Happy Hopping]

What would be a few good, top notch water block for ATI X1800, X1600 series Video cards? What do you guys use?

 

[Bio-Hazard]

Seeing as the new cards aren't out on retail yet and they use a new/differant mounting system, it'd be really hard to say as there aren't any blocks with the new mount brackets out yet as far as I've seen.

 

[Happy Hopping]

It's out on retail. Newegg is already selling it. Check out a few threads at Video Card section. Knowing this is HARDforum, I would expect some of us are already using this card.

 

[Top Nurse]

It's out on retail. Newegg is already selling it. Check out a few threads at Video Card section. Knowing this is HARDforum, I would expect some of us are already using this card.

Unless by some chance the card fits some existing mount then it is highly unlikely you will see any waterblocks for at least 45-60 days from release date of the card. By release date I mean actual sales of cards in sufficient quantities to entice a waterblock manufacturer to make a run of waterblocks. Waterblocks for the 7800 series cards are just hitting about now unless you were just happy with a GPU cooler, in which case people have been watercooling them since day one.

So are you looking for a combined GPU/RAM cooler or just a GPU cooler? If your looking for just a GPU cooler then go get one that fits your fancy and bolt it on. Might take a little bending or drilling, but basically a minor problem if you are sufficiently motivated.

BTW, you have been talking about modding this Reserator for months now and have just about hashed and rehashed this into oblivion. Do you just like talking about modding it or are you really interested in doing it?

 

[Bio-Hazard]

It's out on retail. Newegg is already selling it. Check out a few threads at Video Card section. Knowing this is HARDforum, I would expect some of us are already using this card.

The card just hit retail yesterday, so like what TN said, I wouldn't expcet to see a water block for it for at least a month or so.