Before Making a Thread About Buying a PSU....

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alright sorry for no update guys but i have a legit excuse:

1. I was in Yosemite for the last few days, and they DONT HAVE CELL OR INTERNET THERE!!!!!! Being from Connecticut, this concept is extremley foreign to me. We had a $500 a night (normally, not what I paid) hotel suite and they don't have internet of any kind. Amazing

2. We got stranded twice in the airports on the way back and had to get another hotel because of the damn snow in BOTH Chicago and CT.

So I'll get it done this weekend, I promise. Things I'll be doing are:

1. Adding Coolermaster Realpower Line
2. Adding Silenx iextremea (I can't figure out what I ommitted them in the first place, must have been a dumb oversight on my part). They are good quality supplies, and Ice Czar, I can dig out a quote from you saying that their 600w is "the most intelligently desinged interior I've seen since my pcp&c" or something to that extent.
3. Weeding out dead links and changing new ones.

Anything else I'm forgetting?
 
computerpro3 said:
alright sorry for no update guys but i have a legit excuse:

1. I was in Yosemite for the last few days, and they DONT HAVE CELL OR INTERNET THERE!!!!!! Being from Connecticut, this concept is extremley foreign to me. We had a $500 a night (normally, not what I paid) hotel suite and they don't have internet of any kind. Amazing
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Sounds like fun! You were experiencing being close to nature, devoid of all the trappings of modern society. ;)

I've always wanted to visit Yosemite but never got around to it. But I did visit Yellowstone. The grizzlies were amazing.
 
I have an "Award" brand PSU, 400W. Any knowledge of this brand?

It runs hot, powering my Athlon 2600+, ATI 9800 Pro, Turtle Beach Santa Cruz, single hard drive, single CD-RW unit, even when e-mailing or web browsing. During heavy gaming (NR 2003) I will get brief video stutters, and CTD when moving between menus (no CTD when actually playing.)

Yeah, I know, if it runs hot under those conditions, I shouldn't need to ask if its adequate. But, I also don't want to just go & buy a bigger Award unit if it's just death waitin' to happen.

Edit:

Also, it was mentioned earlier in this thread that for each modular connector, you "lose 1 amp". Please clarify. Is it a matter of extra voltage drop making the PSU run hotter and thus reducing current delivery capability?

mdaskalos
 
gclg2000 said:
Surelyl you can't leave the OCZ 600w off the list!!!!!!!!!
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well when the list was started that 600 was dropping +$1000 video cards like flies :p
course that issue has been addressed, and OCZ replaced those cards which certainly wasnt cheap

but it aint my list, its computerpro3's

it is however our lighting rod :p
 
mdaskalos said:
Also, it was mentioned earlier in this thread that for each modular connector, you "lose 1 amp". Please clarify. Is it a matter of extra voltage drop making the PSU run hotter and thus reducing current delivery capability?
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seemed to have missed that
an extra interface will add approx 0.1 ohms of resistance as far as Im aware
that isnt going to add up to anywhere near 1 amp loss
its generally considered a trivial amount

http://www.dansdata.com/top686p6.htm
Well, 60cm of 18AWG wire should have little more than 0.01 ohms of resistance. The "Molex" plugs on the end, though, can be expected to contribute another 0.1 ohms or so,
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as far as "award" goes never heard of an Award PSU and its a name that ceratinly fouls most search queries,
personally I wouldnt trust it, nor go out and "upgrade" to a bigger one
it seems to be a rebrand bundled with cases, of what I dont know,
but most PSUs bundled with cases should be avoided like the plague
 
What do you guys know of HEC PSUs?

I've got an HEC 350W supply. Just got me an XFX 6600GT (PCI-E) card (minimum system power recommendation is 300W). Will be buying a PCP&C 510 in a few weeks.

Question: Should I wait till I buy the PCP&C to fix and use my Video card, or shall I go ahead with the Video card installation now and fix the PCP&C once I get it?

My system:

P4 3.6GHz Prescott.
Intel D915GAV mobo
CD-RW
120GB Maxtor HDD
2 case fans.

What should I do?

Thanks.
 
Heroichi PSUs are generally considered workhorses of basic complinace
a major manufacturer thats been around for a long time ;)

made older Antecs that started with PP as the designate
also compucase

as far as the use or wait
run the numbers
if thats a PCI-E card add 75W on the +12V rail for the Videocard (6.25 amps)

all in all safer to wait
average and typical draw are generally alot lower than most people think
but buying a PSU isnt about averages and typical loads, its about the worse case senerio ;)
 
Consider the following power supply, an Enermax Noisetaker ATX 12V Ver 2.01:

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-459&depa=1

A user review in the link says the 20/24 pin adapter is built into the 24-pin connector - slip off the portion with the last four pins and - presto! - 20-pin connector. Sounds nice.

Question: If one does this with this model, do they lose either of the 12V1 or 12V2 side of the unit's 12A capability? If I buy this thing now to run my Athlon XP+ board, intending to keep it for when I go Intel LGA 775/24-Pin, will I be getting only half of its 12V capability when running with its 20-pin connector?

The add-on adapters I've seen merge the extra 4 wires so that all current is made available to the board. But pulling the "extra" wires away does....what?

mdaskalos
 
what about adding the seasonic s12s? lee garbutt gave the 600w a good review and the 500w is available at newegg
 
computerpro3 are the coolermaster reals going on the prize cow or cow shit list?
 
So instead of making a new thread about, yes, buying a new psu..I'm going to ask you guys for help real quick. Looking into buying something to replace my 500w Ultra X-connect, it should be priced around $100, and come with SATA connectors (This is for a stable gaming system, no OC'ing here). Profile's in the sig, but I'll list it if anyone asks. Any ideas?
 
at that price point your just making a lateral move more or less
FSP Blue Storm comes to mind, but unless you actually have an issue with the Ultra
I dont see much of a point

Personally Id save up toward a supply for the next gen
(PCI-E heavy weight with likely an 8 pin aux, ATX12V spec seems to be changing again)
 
Yah..there are a few problems with it. A few come to mind like the cords pushing against the Antec p-160 case door, so it bulges out. And there are no clips for the hard drives, so the WD Raptor SATA cable keeps looking like it's going to just shimmy right off (it gets very, very loose).
 
well the Fortron Blue Storm is a strong entry level ATX12V v2.0 supply of basic spec compliance and its under $100 ;)
 
Ice Czar said:
well the Fortron Blue Storm is a strong entry level ATX12V v2.0 supply of basic spec compliance and its under $100 ;)
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I just picked up a Blue Storm and I'm very impressed. All the cables come sheathed and it's quite a solid performer... ;)
 
jesus why are all the "good" power supplies so ugly. Here it goes

I just bought a Gigabyte SLI Board (Features i need/like) It has a 20 pin connector. So should I be looking at a 24 pin or a 20 pin PSU? Will the 24 pin work on it? If you look at the board there isnt much clearing on the connector. Do they sell or include 24 pin to 20 pin adapters? All ive seen is 20 to 24.

Pic of Board here
http://www.newegg.com/app/Showimage.../13-128-269-06.jpg&CurImage=13-128-269-02.jpg

I REALLY want a modular PSU. What choices do I have besides OCZ Modstream, Antec Neopower and the SuperFlower Plug n Play. If these are it, which would be the better choice of the three for my setup?

Newegg has more choices. But none ive seen have been talked about much here. No i wont get a Pc Power and Cooling Turbocool 510 Deluxe. I can't justify spending that much on anything right now. My budget for a PSU would be 130 Max Shipped. I do plan on sli 6600GT's down the road. Little to NO overclocking, 1-2 Hds, 1 Dvd burner, pci sound, tv tuner, PPU card if it ever gets released. Currently i have an Aspire Bling bling psu (I know, but hey was free) I tend to wait hardware out and I never get first gen anything(Look at my sig, its lasted me awhile) That said if I buy a PSU now i wont change it for at least 2-3 years. I upgrade my CPU/Mobo/Vid approx every 1.5-2.0 years. Which means waiting for the next spec just isnt for me
 
Ruffy said:
jesus why are all the "good" power supplies so ugly. Here it goes

I just bought a Gigabyte SLI Board (Features i need/like) It has a 20 pin connector. So should I be looking at a 24 pin or a 20 pin PSU? Will the 24 pin work on it? If you look at the board there isnt much clearing on the connector. Do they sell or include 24 pin to 20 pin adapters? All ive seen is 20 to 24.

Pic of Board here
http://www.newegg.com/app/Showimage.../13-128-269-06.jpg&CurImage=13-128-269-02.jpg

I REALLY want a modular PSU. What choices do I have besides OCZ Modstream, Antec Neopower and the SuperFlower Plug n Play. If these are it, which would be the better choice of the three for my setup?
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Those are about it...that are worth a damn. The OCZ is very good but it is an atx1.3 PSU so no dual 12v. The Superflower is also an ATX v1.3 and a little unknown...I have asked around abit on it. I might still get one to play with in a second computer. The NeoPower is very good and is an ATX2.0 PSU.
 
and yes if you want any hope of using this supply to power another board in the future
get the 24 pin

also modular supplies while a neat idea do add some resistance
not much of an issue on say the +12V rail, but not insubstantial on the +3.3V rail either
all in all I recommend fixed cabled and traditional modding as a better overall solution
if less flexible
 
Ice Czar said:
and yes if you want any hope of using this supply to power another board in the future
get the 24 pin

also modular supplies while a neat idea do add some resistance
not much of an issue on say the +12V rail, but not insubstantial on the +3.3V rail either
all in all I recommend fixed cabled and traditional modding as a better overall solution
if less flexible
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Honestly I really dont care about the small ammount of resistance added.
And the PSU most likely wont make the transition to another machine in 2-3 years.
 
http://www.systemcooling.com/thermaltake_pp_680-04.html

Lee Garbutt said:
With the 20-pin adapter cable inserted, the primary voltages dropped slightly due to the added resistance of the connector, but was still well within spec. This was particularly noticeable on the 3.3V rail as all the 3.3V power (~10 Amps) flows thru this connector during testing.
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+3.3V rail
with adapter > 3.20V
without > 3.29V

and thats just a 24pin to 20 pin adapter not an additional cable to PSU interface
something to be aware of in any event ;)
 
Ice Czar said:
http://www.systemcooling.com/thermaltake_pp_680-04.html


+3.3V rail
with adapter > 3.20V
without > 3.29V

and thats just a 24pin to 20 pin adapter not an additional cable to PSU interface
something to be aware of in any event ;)
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Considering id be buying a 20 pin PSU for a 20 pin mobo. And all the "good" modular psu's dont have modular ATX connections, I dont see how i would be affecting the 3.3 Line. At most my molex connections would gain the resistance, and generally those are using the 12v?
 
the modulars
Antec Neopower 24 pin native + 20 pin adapter (1 extra interfaces)
TTGI Superflower 24 pin native + 20 pin adapter (1 extra interfaces)
OCZ Modstream 20+4 pin connector (extra 4 slides on to the 20) direct connect to the PSU

Good Luck ;)
 
Ice Czar said:
the modulars
Antec Neopower 24 pin native + 20 pin adapter (1 extra interfaces)
TTGI Superflower 24 pin native + 20 pin adapter (1 extra interfaces)
OCZ Modstream 20+4 pin connector (extra 4 slides on to the 20) direct connect to the PSU

Good Luck ;)
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so from the looks of it my choice is the modstream. I've had a bad terrible experiance with OCZ years ago(Abit K7Ta-Raid, Amd Tbird 1.33c, their heatsinks at the time, *shudders*)

I guess its time to forgive and try again.
 
you can connect any of them directly and have the extra 4 pins hang off they are keyed the same.
I have an old 800MHz board being powered off a 24 pin EPS12V ;)
youjust need clearence and a spot of hotglue possibly since the clips wont line up
in my case there is no strain on the connection and no hotglue
 
Ruffy said:
Honestly I really dont care about the small ammount of resistance added.
And the PSU most likely wont make the transition to another machine in 2-3 years.
Click to expand...

you might care to know that it is half an amp PER CONNECTOR. So for example, if you have 5 splits in the cables on the 12v line, you have 10 connectors, and 5 entire amps taken off. I would care about it if I was you.
 
Okay guys, another "which PSU should I buy?" question...

I'm in the market for a new PSU, and I have about $80 USD to spend. It will be running:

2500+ Barton @ 2.3Ghz (1.8 vcore) -
ABIT NF7-S rev2
128MB 9800PRO (moderarely overclocked)
1x WD JB800 aka 80GB 7200rpm 8mb cache HDD
1x OCZ "Performance Series" 512MB PC3200
2x Optical drives

Other than probably getting another 512MB of RAM for this system, I think it will be its last upgrade. *Maybe* another HDD later down the road, but nothing more than that.

I think i've narrowed it down to the following:

500W Fortron Blue Storm
420W OCZ Powerstream
450W OCZ Modstream

I'm a little reluctant to choose the Modstream because of the supposedly very stiff cables, but i'm still open to it. I really like the Powerstream, excellent finish, very sharp.
One major thing going for the Blue Storm are the fancy molex connectors and the well sleeved cables.

So, I really don't know what to choose, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Oh yeah, if you have any other PSU suggestions, please voice them, but here in Canada that selection isn't that great...

Thank you!
 
Well if you really aren't going to upgrade anything any of those should work. If it was me.....I would probably still get an Atx 2.0 supply.
 
Liam
thats not a horribly power hungry config these days
5.7A on the +12V for the CPU no PCI-E
any of those will do fine
the OCZs are rated at 40C and Fortron is known for conservatively rating thier supplies
they all have plenty of amps where you need them

that board is a 20 pin however and employing an adapter from a 24 pin supply might actually have enough resistance to matter on the +3.3V rail
see > http://www.pcper.com/article.php?aid=106
(drop from 3.24 to 3.18)

so the Powerstream or Modstream solution of a 20 pin +4pin addon without an adapter would be my choice
besides it has tighter load regulation and at least on the leads with the ferrite cores and caps a better AC Ripple ;)
(both an advantage in overclocking)

Id pick the Powerstream personally they are rumored to be a bit better than the Modstreams and dont have the resistance on the other connectors
the additional interfaces add, keep in mind that in a higher voltage the impact isnt nearly as great and that the other connectors dont have the +3.3V rail, all the main connectors are hardwired and not modular, the other reason is that you wouldnt accidently have one work loose in a fixed wire :p
but thats just an opinion

If on the other hand your looking for this supply to migrate into PCI-E and Prescotts or AMD64's, especially in an SLi config there are likely better choices
 
Thanks Ice Czar.

Do you know, which is quieter, the modstream or the powerstream?

Also, if threw the 520W Modstream and *maybe* a Neopower, would this change anything?
 
Id opt for the 520 in that event, for the same reason the 20+4 connector and ferrite leads
neither the Modstream or Powerstream are particularly quiet supplies but Mike Chin reviewed both at SPCR :p

http://www.silentpcreview.com/section4.html
(470 Powerstream + Modstream 520 + Neopower)

you can lookup and compare the dba ;)

The Seasonic S12 is a pisscutter of a supply (linked above for the adapter example)
highly efficient = less waste heat = less airflow required = quieter)
and has a ton of capacity, but there is that slight drop in the +3.3V might not be that big a deal, or you could adjust the pot ip potentially to compensate, though I havent seen any tutorial in the innards of that supply
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=765175

youd want a pretty good DMM
 
Alright, let me throw another couple PSU's into the mix. A 430W Seasonic S12, a 400W Super Tornado and a 460W Super Silencer. I also haven't heard anything about the Enermax CoolerGiant line, so let me throw in a 480W CoolerGiant.

Sorry to drag this on so long!

Liam
 
well as mentioned the adapter is a small issue
one that can often be remedied with a multimeter and pot adjustment
or simply ignored, but it is less than optimal

for competant reviews
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article166-page1.html
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article226-page3.html
they all appear to need an adapter (at least from the photos a newegg)
though Id check the Tornado elsewhere its supposedlu an ATX12V v1.3 and might have the 20 pin

there is the obvious differences in +12V amps
but the finer points of each supply might be better answered over at SPCR's forum
the Seasonic line really being a favorite with silent PC enthusiasts
youd get considerable firsthand feedback
we tend toward the "big guns" over here, more power hungry configs and "flexible" Power solutions where upgrading is the norm
(a serious silent rig is generally a set peice solution)
and the Seasonics arent as widely adopted here as of right now
but thats probably going to change with the S12-600

Id opt for the S12-430 with the greater upgrade path between those three
but in truth any of those will power your current config

as far as the S12-430 vs a Powerstream
well if quiet is important the Seasonic wins
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article173-page1.html
the OCZ might have an edge in power quality (AC Ripple)
and it does have the 20+4 pin connector
so Id opt for it if overclocking
 
Update. I ended up buying the fortron blue storm
Neweggs price cracked me. Guess I go modular next upgrade cycle(2-3 years)

It was a tossup between the black vantec and the bluestorm tho. Price ended up winning this battle.
 
Spent the last several hours looking around, and based on what will eventually end up in this rig I'm assembling, I decided it needed 480-500 watts for headroom..

Seasonic's S12-500 looks good, but only 17 amps on the 12v? compared to 26 amps for the OCZ Modstream 520w, or 25 amps from it's younger cousin the 460watt SuperSilencer? And check out that price tag, compared to the (much louder) Fortron Blue Storm 500watt.

At least buying a CPU is very clear-cut, and GPU only slightly muddled (PS 3.0 or not, SLI or not, ATI or Nvidia loyalties) :p

Any input? I'd go for the Fortron, but SPCR says she's a screamer, and from it's sound clip, i'd agree. :( I'm not getting my friend to hand over a Zalman Reserator just to hear my PSU from the next room over :p

edit: oh, and need native 24pin.. motherboard manufacturer says a 20-24pin adapter can cause instability

edit 2: you know, also too bad this isn't like a CPU in another regard; buy a 300 watt psu, OC it to push out 450 watts, slap on a waterblock and have it push 500. Shine a cathode on it, and it'll look like it's putting out 600.
 
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