• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Beautiful......Yes? 56K warning

J-M-E

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Messages
1,955
83cef719.jpg

And one in low light
LowLight.jpg

And one I kind of messed up but is still cool
LowLight2.jpg

Twinplex
Twinplex004.jpg


All the other stuff is in a box over there >_> somewhere
 
Could you please use a flash or run those pic's through Photoshop to lighten them up a bit? Can't see any detail :( Otherwise looks correct on the mounting. :)

So much for not being able to use 3/8" tubes on AC gear. :)
 
Nice. :) Damn, I mounted my Cuplex XT with the springs underneath the block (they seemed much too long to put on top) Guess I'll try it the other way when I get my motherboard back from RMA. :(
 
Nice, you answered a question that no one else has, I think? I am about to switch my MB from Asus to DFI. I am concerned about the Cuplex NB cooler fitting under 2 graphic cards. Do you intend to have 2 graphic cards?
 
Yes I do intend to, ill test it out for you when im getting my comp up.
 
Yea, from what I can tell, seeing that block, and having a DFI myself, it is going to be CLOSE if it will fit or not.
 
won't work! I tried it already....... :mad:

freaking DFI board is just a few mm off and it would work.

The XT looks sexy and I really like your RAM!

Here's a peek at my sexy goods.

ACBlocks.JPG
 
The only blocks that currently work are the dfi freezer which is available overseas and the koolance block :mad:
 
R1ckCa1n said:
won't work! I tried it already....... :mad:

freaking DFI board is just a few mm off and it would work.

Great, looks like ill be taking the twinplex off...
 
tbooth said:
Damn, I mounted my Cuplex XT with the springs underneath the block (they seemed much too long to put on top) Guess I'll try it the other way when I get my motherboard back from RMA.

I originally did the same thing as you , but then I asked on the AC Forum and some a-hole over there told me to RTFM even though it was in German. If they are to long did you use the machine screw or the post that screws into the backing plate. The post was to short on my A8N-SLI board. :(
 
J-M-E said:
Great, looks like ill be taking the twinplex off...

Well the new TwinPlex Pro is supposed to be thin enough to work on that board. :) Unfortunately some a-hole mentioned to them that their blocks were concave so all that stuff is on hold while they fix their mill. ;)
 
Top Nurse said:
Well the new TwinPlex Pro is supposed to be thin enough to work on that board. :) Unfortunately some a-hole mentioned to them that their blocks were concave so all that stuff is on hold while they fix their mill. ;)

who was that a-hole ..:rolleyes:... i need a block for my DFI and i don't care if i have to lap it or scrape it
 
Top Nurse said:
I originally did the same thing as you , but then I asked on the AC Forum and some a-hole over there told me to RTFM even though it was in German. If they are to long did you use the machine screw or the post that screws into the backing plate. The post was to short on my A8N-SLI board. :(

The screws I used were the longer of the 2 sets (these don't have the nut connected to them) but the springs still stuck way over the top of the screws. I removed the back plate too.
 
tbooth said:
The screws I used were the longer of the 2 sets (these don't have the nut connected to them) but the springs still stuck way over the top of the screws. I removed the back plate too.

The springs are supposed to stick over the screws, you push them down with the nut, causing them to apply pressure to the cpu and keep the waterblock in place...
 
J-M-E said:
The springs are supposed to stick over the screws, you push them down with the nut, causing them to apply pressure to the cpu and keep the waterblock in place...

Gotcha. I couldnt even get the nut onto the screw without what seemed like an extraordinary amount of pressure. I guess next time I'll try and be less worried about crushing the CPU :) .
 
tbooth said:
Gotcha. I couldnt even get the nut onto the screw without what seemed like an extraordinary amount of pressure. I guess next time I'll try and be less worried about crushing the CPU :) .

yea its pretty strong..
 
eumskickin said:
who was that a-hole ..:rolleyes:... i need a block for my DFI and i don't care if i have to lap it or scrape it

I think their initials are TN or something close to that. ;)
 
OCZ and DFI.....both in the same system.....it makes me hurt inside.......

anyhow, have you read up on the 5 volt VDIMM jumper issue?

and if you EVER have something that resembles a cold boot problem, something that works more often that it should to get that thing living, and is a lot less risky than most of the cold boot procedures, is to slap a PCI vid card in there.

for some reason, DFI boards sometimes look for the PCI vid card that they are set by default to initialize first, find one that isn't there, and continue to post and boot without checking the AGP bus.

putting a PCI card in there lets you get into the BIOS and set the board to look for an AGP card first, and continue on from there normally.

my NF2 has that problem, and the same thing crops up from time to time on their more recent nForce boards as well.

my hatred for DFI knows very few bounds.
 
DFI Daishi said:
OCZ and DFI.....both in the same system.....it makes me hurt inside.......

anyhow, have you read up on the 5 volt VDIMM jumper issue?

and if you EVER have something that resembles a cold boot problem, something that works more often that it should to get that thing living, and is a lot less risky than most of the cold boot procedures, is to slap a PCI vid card in there.

for some reason, DFI boards sometimes look for the PCI vid card that they are set by default to initialize first, find one that isn't there, and continue to post and boot without checking the AGP bus.

putting a PCI card in there lets you get into the BIOS and set the board to look for an AGP card first, and continue on from there normally.

my NF2 has that problem, and the same thing crops up from time to time on their more recent nForce boards as well.

my hatred for DFI knows very few bounds.

OCZ makes insanely overclockable ram thats stable and speedbinned. And DFI has the most options of any motherboard ive ever seen. Whats your problem with OCZ?
 
J-M-E said:
OCZ makes insanely overclockable ram thats stable and speedbinned. And DFI has the most options of any motherboard ive ever seen. Whats your problem with OCZ?
they boned a friend of mine on a very expensive pair of dual channel BH-5 sticks that would not even hit stock speeds within the allowable voltage range.

OCZ also has a history, which most people now consider to be well behind the current face of the company, of producing sticks that need a lot of voltage to hit stock speeds. their current stuff is supposed to be better about that particular issue, and their warrenty coverage is good these days, but it didn't used to be.

i guess that you could say that i am holding a grudge.

and just BTW, UTT memory is, by definition, not speed binned by winbond. if OCZ is speed binning individual chips themselves after the fact.....oh well, problem solved. i just don't know that they are doing so, and quite frankly doubt it.
 
DFI Daishi said:
they boned a friend of mine on a very expensive pair of dual channel BH-5 sticks that would not even hit stock speeds within the allowable voltage range.

OCZ also has a history, which most people now consider to be well behind the current face of the company, of producing sticks that need a lot of voltage to hit stock speeds. their current stuff is supposed to be better about that particular issue, and their warrenty coverage is good these days, but it didn't used to be.

i guess that you could say that i am holding a grudge.

and just BTW, UTT memory is, by definition, not speed binned by winbond. if OCZ is speed binning individual chips themselves after the fact.....oh well, problem solved. i just don't know that they are doing so, and quite frankly doubt it.

This VX 4000 Gold ram I bought uses UTT CH-5 chips. It DOES require a lot of voltage, but the DFI can provide up to 4 volts, which makes this set up work awesome together :)
 
I like the barbs you have on your AC gear. Never was a fan of the push fits.

WRT OCZ

I bought 2x512 OCZ plat. rev. 2 and it hit well over 300mhz at 2.5-4-3-7
I'm under the impression that the only OCZ parts not speedbinned are the value series rams. If you buy vx3200 you are likely getting sticks that didn't make the vx4000 cut. OCZ seems fine to me.
 
J-M-E said:
This VX 4000 Gold ram I bought uses UTT CH-5 chips. It DOES require a lot of voltage, but the DFI can provide up to 4 volts, which makes this set up work awesome together :)
yes, the board can supply up to 4 volts if you move the 5 volt VDIMM jumper into the 5 volt position.

remember how i asked if you have read up on the issue with moving that jumper?

there is a glitch, that i do not believe has yet been resolved, whereby regardless of the volotage setting that you use for your chipset and and memory, some of these boards are cooking thermselves and somethimes the memory as wel, when the jumper is set to the 5V positionl.

i know that it does not happen to every board and every user, but that's a pretty serious problem in my mind. DFI is presently reccomending that all users leave the jumper in the 3.3 volt position, limiting your VDIMM to 3.2, until this issue has been fully resolved.

i would strongly suggest that you read up on user problems with the two boards that you are thinking of getting, in various support forums.

don't take my word for it: search for yourself. also look into "4 leds of death", "warm boot problem", "bios corruption" and "cold boot problem" to understand why i don't reccomend DFI product. i have had all of those problems and more. my board will also not go past 200 FSB with adequate stability regardless of what settings i use. the soldering on every DFI board that i have seen looks like hell.

yes, i'm biased by my own experiences. yes, i hold a grudge against a company that i feel has sold me a defective product. that is why i am suggesting that you search for yourself and find your own stories, and form your own opinions.

i stopped frequenting DFI-street because every time i asked about anything or commented on anything, i was an idiot that couldn't overclock because i didn't volt things aggressively enough and was too timid about testing every step of the way and trying to find out what would help with getting things stable and what didn't, stepping things up from stock speed a little bit at a time. i found that other users with legitimate problem boards also left pretty quickly, as that forum seems to be n00bs getting perfectly functional boards up and running for the first time, or hoardcore overclockers who had good boards up and running, and were trying to squeeze the last bit of performance out of their systems. not a lot of diagnosis and troubleshooting for boards on there.
 
MikeyB said:
I like the barbs you have on your AC gear. Never was a fan of the push fits.

WRT OCZ

I bought 2x512 OCZ plat. rev. 2 and it hit well over 300mhz at 2.5-4-3-7
I'm under the impression that the only OCZ parts not speedbinned are the value series rams. If you buy vx3200 you are likely getting sticks that didn't make the vx4000 cut. OCZ seems fine to me.
OCZ plat = samsung TCCD chips, not winbond.

additionally, i believe that OCZ is speed binning complete sticks, as opposed to the individual chips. that's what most manufacturers do. it just means that by using un-tested (UTT) chips to start with, there is more variation within the batch than there would be if they were starting with speed binned chips, and so the batch testing tht they use to grade and sell their complete sticks is more likely to let a few under-achievers through.

my mushkin TCCD hits a bit better than 240 FSB memtest stable with 2-3-3-11@3.0 volts, and can go as high as my board will POST with 2.5-4-4-11@2.8 volts. i can get some pretty awsome FSB OCs memtest stable on this board, both with this TCCD and my dearly departed PC3500 level 2 BH-5. it's when i try to do anything usefull that i am limited to 200 FSB.

now, my PC4400 is warrenty replacement for my PC3500. when i called to ask for warrenty support, after establishing that the stick was dead, they outright gave me the pick of their catalogue as it stood at the time. i asked what memory they make uses TCCD chips on a brainpowered PCB. she said that their PC4400 memory meets those requirement, and asked if i would like a set of that. i said yes. she noted that they do not have a NF2 testbed that goes up to the rated speed for those modules, and wanted to know if i would prefer to have my memory tested up to the speed that the NF2 goes up to, or if i would like to have them tested to full speed in one of their other testbeds. i requested that they be tested to full speed in an A64 rig. i recieved my replacements within 3 days. now THAT is service.

i highly reccomend mushkin, because all of my experiences with them have been positive. my friends's experiences with OCZ were not at all positive, so i avoid them, even though i am hearing good things about the company these days.
 
According to DFI street. I should just flash the bios and ill be good to go, that fixes most all of the problems.
 
I have had over 10 boards in the past 24 months and find DFI to be the best, by a far margin. If people are SO concerned about the potential 5volt problem, you can use a RAM Booster to acheive the desired voltage. I am running my VX @ 265 2,2,2,5 1T (3.2volt) with zero issues.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
I have had over 10 boards in the past 24 months and find DFI to be the best, by a far margin. If people are SO concerned about the potential 5volt problem, you can use a RAM Booster to acheive the desired voltage. I am running my VX @ 265 2,2,2,5 1T (3.2volt) with zero issues.
i have had 4 boards in the last 24 months. of them all, i had by far the best experience with my NF7-S rev. 2.0 board. then i went and quite spectacularly cooked it.

i wanted to get past 230 FSB, and i thought that DFI was the way to do it, having read the stories of people who got them, and had them work properly.

POW! right in the jimmies for me!

i have come across several others online who have had really bad experiences with their DFI boards. in the face of all of the people touting the virtues of these boards, i just want to make sure that there is at least some warning for a young user saving up and looking for a board, that buying DFI and overclocking is not a sure-fire path to high-performance and reliable computing, for a reduced price as compared to getting a top flight CPU.

i know that every board has good units and bad ones. there is just SO MUCH good press about the DFI boards that i feel the need to be a voice of caution.
 
DFI Daishi said:
i have had 4 boards in the last 24 months. of them all, i had by far the best experience with my NF7-S rev. 2.0 board. then i went and quite spectacularly cooked it.

i wanted to get past 230 FSB, and i thought that DFI was the way to do it, having read the stories of people who got them, and had them work properly.

POW! right in the jimmies for me!

i have come across several others online who have had really bad experiences with their DFI boards. in the face of all of the people touting the virtues of these boards, i just want to make sure that there is at least some warning for a young user saving up and looking for a board, that buying DFI and overclocking is not a sure-fire path to high-performance and reliable computing, for a reduced price as compared to getting a top flight CPU.

i know that every board has good units and bad ones. there is just SO MUCH good press about the DFI boards that i feel the need to be a voice of caution.
I would blame your power supply more than a board at this point (not the best for real overclocking). I did not start to achieve nice stable overclocks until I switched to my OCZ power supply. I have both the NF-7 Rev1 and Rev2 but they don't compare to the quality of DFI boards. I can't wait for the crossfire edition DFI is making! !~! :)
 
R1ckCa1n said:
I would blame your power supply more than a board at this point (not the best for real overclocking). I did not start to achieve nice stable overclocks until I switched to my OCZ power supply. I have both the NF-7 Rev1 and Rev2 but they don't compare to the quality of DFI boards. I can't wait for the crossfire edition DFI is making! !~! :)
umm.....please notice that i was previously using that NF7 and getting at least SOME overclock. also, i have tried a nice antec 550 watt on loan, that did not do a thing to help my ability to FSB overclock. low multies don't help, high voltages don't help, and my PSU's output is rock solid as probed with a multimeter while under load, overclocked to my current setting, and while experimenting with FSB overclocking. i have done everything reasonably possible to isolate where my problem lies, and the board is what i come back with.

the retailer that i purchased from has had no end of trouble with DFI product as well, and it is the one product line that they carry that they offer NO warrenty on.

as for quality.......maybe if you spell it with a capital k, i'll start to agree with that. i have checked out a number of DFI boards, and all of them evidence lousy soldering, and slap-dash component mounting.

i know very well how many options there are in the BIOS on these boards. i know that they can allow you to get some really incredible hand-tweaked overclocks. i know that DFI also has their stuff on the market early, and supporting tonnes of new feaures.

quality? no.
koalaty? well, perhaps.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
I would blame your power supply more than a board at this point (not the best for real overclocking). I did not start to achieve nice stable overclocks until I switched to my OCZ power supply. I have both the NF-7 Rev1 and Rev2 but they don't compare to the quality of DFI boards. I can't wait for the crossfire edition DFI is making! !~! :)

You'll forgive me, but if a server grade PSU isn't appropriate for OCing, then what the hell is? They have decent tolerances, are rock solid, and put out a hell of a lot of power on all the rails.

 
DamienThorn said:
You'll forgive me, but if a server grade PSU isn't appropriate for OCing, then what the hell is? They have decent tolerances, are rock solid, and put out a hell of a lot of power on all the rails.


Server grade has nothing to do with how well it will perform with a CPU at high voltage, a video card at high voltage, and RAM pushing serious voltage. Server grade power supplies are for long term reliablity. Check the inside of all the top overclockers and you will not find Antec and such.... :eek:

I hate to see people blame a motherboard or CPU when they run cheap ram and power supplies.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Server grade has nothing to do with how well it will perform with a CPU at high voltage, a video card at high voltage, and RAM pushing serious voltage. Server grade power supplies are for long term reliablity. Check the inside of all the top overclockers and you will not find Antec and such.... :eek:

I hate to see people blame a motherboard or CPU when they run cheap ram and power supplies.

Unless I'm very mistaken, there shouldn't be a significant issue getting some wicked OCs using the RAM that DFI Daishi is using. At the same time, assuming that I accept your hypothesis that he doesn't have an "overclocking PSU" he should be able to hit far higher OCs that he is currently able to. He may not be able to hit the best OCs in the world, but he certainly shouldn't be constrained in his OCs like he currently is.

 
DamienThorn said:
Unless I'm very mistaken, there shouldn't be a significant issue getting some wicked OCs using the RAM that DFI Daishi is using. At the same time, assuming that I accept your hypothesis that he doesn't have an "overclocking PSU" he should be able to hit far higher OCs that he is currently able to. He may not be able to hit the best OCs in the world, but he certainly shouldn't be constrained in his OCs like he currently is.

Correct! He should get something with all the cooling he is using but to blame a board that is know as the best overclocking board made is silly. ;)
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Correct! He should get something with all the cooling he is using but to blame a board that is know as the best overclocking board made is silly. ;)
and DFI has never shipped a defective board out the door? ever?

i HAVE posted on DFI-street looking for advice, and what i got was a constant littany of up the voltage, drop the multi, burn in the ram, loosten the timings, disable command per clock, etc.

newsflash: if the basic, easy, stuff worked, i would be asking about how to top 230 FSB, not how to top 200 MHz.

i tried with an 8 x multi, and upped the FSB from 166 MHz in 5 MHz incriments, stabliity testing each step, and adding enough voltage at every step to stabilize my system in memtest and prime. the system became unstable as soon as i got past 200 MHz FSB every time. CL2.0, CL2.5 and any other reasonable setting adjutment would not get it past 200 MHz, windows/game/prime stable.

through all of that, my rails have been running a little, tiny, bit high and VERY stable. once again, that is probing into the molex block with a digital multi-meter, to check and make sure that the board sensors were not missing anything. as it happens, the board sensors were reporting a tiny bit low, and also very stable.

if you REALLY think that there is something that i should be trying, then we can start a thread, and you can try to talk me through this. my DFI rig is down at the moment, but if your suggest something that is actually helpfull, i would be nothing but greatfull.
 
hey for the record: i loved how the dfi boards looked, how they were laid out and if any of your WC'ers removed the chipset hsf and dont mind parting with it i'll gladly pick it up. added to that i even waited and highly considered picking up the dfi nf3 939 agp board to replace my msi board for the supposed reasons of board layout, high ram voltage ability. well the agp 939 board is nothing like the nforce4 boards but if that wasnt enough to turn me off:

im subscribed to the thread over at DFI street which is in the hundreds of pages, and all i see is a crap load of guys running 2T timing. struggling to get the board running, booting multiple times, blah blah. at that point in disbelef i was like "fuk this". yea i dont see how so many folks are just struggling with the board just becuz its DFI.

anyhoo i still love the layout of that NF4 board and the sinked mosfets and all. i still respect DFI as a buying choice but then again i have used the great amd boards from each of the manufacturers in my socket A days: the asus deluxe, nf7, now i have the msi neo2 plat....

anyhoo just adding my dash of info in there. i can see where DFI dashai is coming from. tons of folks are hyping over dfi and there are known probs and silly answers to them, and not like that is very unique a situation or anythign but the sheer number of folks on the dfi forums struggling with issues is remarkable. i still think tho that if i was nforce4'ing it my choice would easily have been between the dfi and msi and i still would have a hard time choosing even with what i know.

however: dont crap on ocz. i have the luxury myself to stat my intense purchasing of good ram basically AS THEY GOT THEIR ACT together, which means that of the bunches and bunches of sticks i have bought and that i have HAD bought by frens etc: ocz has never failed me, dissapointed or cost nearly as much as say corsair. after half a year of ocz-lovin i heard about their tattered past thru various reviews and then found out that all changed as they went under some new management and other major changes. so i had no reason to doubt any of it. and my gold sticks ARE bh-5 not utt. awesome.
 
DFI Daishi said:
umm.....please notice that i was previously using that NF7 and getting at least SOME overclock. also, i have tried a nice antec 550 watt on loan, that did not do a thing to help my ability to FSB overclock. low multies don't help, high voltages don't help, and my PSU's output is rock solid as probed with a multimeter while under load, overclocked to my current setting, and while experimenting with FSB overclocking. i have done everything reasonably possible to isolate where my problem lies, and the board is what i come back with.

Interesting. I had the same problems with my DFI NF2 Ultra Infinity. Just could not do a fsb overclock with it. My old Gigabyte mobo clocked better on the fsb. I too tried everything, it just would not clock over 200, and be rock stable, no matter what.
 
el rolio said:
however: dont crap on ocz. i have the luxury myself to stat my intense purchasing of good ram basically AS THEY GOT THEIR ACT together, which means that of the bunches and bunches of sticks i have bought and that i have HAD bought by frens etc: ocz has never failed me, dissapointed or cost nearly as much as say corsair. after half a year of ocz-lovin i heard about their tattered past thru various reviews and then found out that all changed as they went under some new management and other major changes. so i had no reason to doubt any of it. and my gold sticks ARE bh-5 not utt. awesome.


Yeah, my Ocz Value VX which cost me just over $100 is better than the Corsair Xl ram I had that cost me $259 at Micro Center. Needless to say Corsair got returned. I also have a Gig of Corsair TwinX 1024 3200C2PT sitting here that I paid around $160 for from the Egg. It too pails compared to the Value VX ram.

And my Ocz Powerstream 420 rocks man! Adjutable rails is the only way to go....
 
Back
Top