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rainman

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2000
Messages
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With the desire to push my Q6600 further...a box of goodies arrived:

1-box.png


My personal postal inspector decided to make sure the box was safe.


Inside the box were many wonderful things:

2-supplies.png



The first order of business was to open up the brand new D5 (Swiftech MCP655) pump and port it:

3-pump-mod.png




After some test fitting and measuring and more test fitting, I was able to tuck my loop in the case with minimal modifications. In fact, the only mods were:

1) Removing the front drive cage. If I need more drive space, I'll add one of those spiffy Lian Li cages to my 5.25" bays.

2) Drilling two small holes in the motherboard tray (I drilled out two screw mount points) to mount the reservoir.

3) Drilling two small holes in the case bottom to mount the pump (I drilled out two of the vent holes to accept the screws).

4) Flipping the front fan mount upside down to fit the front radiator.

5) Removal of the rear fan guard.


This is the (unfilled) result:

4-installed.png


I snapped the picture right before filling and hooking the last few things up (like the pump and additional video power cords). As my webserver is sitting right next to this desk, I rummaged up an unused molex and hooked up the pump. This way I was powering the loop without powering the components...perfect for testing, and I didn't have to jump a PS to do it.

Filled the loop, ran the pump on low, and filled some more. After getting the level pretty much set, I turned up the speed on the pump and bled the system. I also tested for leaks. I found one small leak in the base of the reservoir, due to not screwing the delrin bottom cap all the way into the acrylic tank...it was an easy fix. After leak testing, I added two drops of Petra's PT_Nuke. Since I don't have any windows into my case, I didn't concern myself with any fancy lighting or coolant dye. I also said "the heck with it" and got the silver lined tygon (again no need to see the water in the loop).


I made one final modification to the case. I pulled out my 4.5" hole saw, my dremel, my drill, and a sheet of acrylic. I removed the vent screen from the case and cut a new fan mount / blow hole in place of the old mesh.

004.png


I guess I do have a "window" in my case after all...





Results pending, but initially it looks like around a 10*C drop in temperatures over the TRUE.
 
Interesting porting the D5, link to more info on this?

Is there really much point to it? I seem to get really great flow with mine even stock, I don't notice much difference turning it down a little.
 
I'm running Everest Ultimate 4.20.1170 and it is an option in the preferences.


According to flow numbers obtained by the guy who concieved the mod...it's about as good as a DDC-3.2 with Petra's top. So, I figured "about as good" plus "more reliable" was a win/win situation.

I'll post the link once I dig it back up, from a post by martinm120 on overclock.net.
 
It's tough. Took way more patience than I normally have...


I used the smallest sphere-shaped bit I have. Looks kind of like a dentist's drill bit. I set it in the dremel (I have the flexible head) and just worked it around the lip slowly. I then used one of the angled grinding stones to open up the intake and output a little. I didn't want to go too crazy on the intake or output and cause a leak potential.

http://www.shed.com/tutor/CM15mods/CM15 mods-Images/4.jpg

Like #100 in this picture for the porting on the output.
 
how much space is there between the rad and the side panal as im interested in mounting another rad there.
 
I assume you're talking about the rad in the back.

It is about 0.5 mm away from the side panel or less. It just fits. The real test will be seeing if I can fit a HR-09 under the rad to cool the MOSFETs. I'm going to replace the stock NB/SB/MOSFET cooling solution this week.
 
I assume you're talking about the rad in the back.

It is about 0.5 mm away from the side panel or less. It just fits. The real test will be seeing if I can fit a HR-09 under the rad to cool the MOSFETs. I'm going to replace the stock NB/SB/MOSFET cooling solution this week.


i wanna add a window to my case but if theres that narrow of a space it might hit the acrylic and not fit. what u think?
 
It's tough. Took way more patience than I normally have...


I used the smallest sphere-shaped bit I have. Looks kind of like a dentist's drill bit. I set it in the dremel (I have the flexible head) and just worked it around the lip slowly. I then used one of the angled grinding stones to open up the intake and output a little. I didn't want to go too crazy on the intake or output and cause a leak potential.

http://www.shed.com/tutor/CM15mods/CM15 mods-Images/4.jpg

Like #100 in this picture for the porting on the output.

Looks like a great excuse to buy some more tools lol. Well maybe I can borrow my buddies flexable head, although I have have always wanted one of those anyways. Maybe someone can build a version with a tripple exhaust port lol? I just got my Thermochill Metal barbs and have to pull my system back apart to install them so i might give it a shot then. Looks like an excelent mod, although it definately is not for everyone. I'll keep an eye on your thread your really making me want to dump my S939. Finaly something worth while upgrading to for a non absurd amount of money.
 
i wanna add a window to my case but if theres that narrow of a space it might hit the acrylic and not fit. what u think?

Don't run the window all the way back to where the radiator is. Otherwise, it will probably hit.
 
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