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AVR or UPS

C

ChrisTracker

n00b
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
12
I dont know if Im on the right forum but I think its better to post here.
I have my 42" LED 3D TV as a monitor for my PC with a PSU of 620 watts
I want to use a 1 voltage regulator to plug in my monitor and CPU. In our place the electricity fluctuates more often.
Some says I need to buy an AVR, some says I have to buy UPS. But also someone suggested a surge protector
I dont know which one to buy. I need what's best for my setup. Im not after saving my files when there is an electric interruption. Im not into saving files. I just want to protect my device from electric fluctuation. My monitor blinks more often these days that's why Im seeking for some help here.
And please indicate the wattage I need for my setup
Thanks!!!
 
Without additional specs on the TV I made this assumption based off the specs for an LG 42" LED 3D TV; it uses an average of 87w with a max of 120w. Taking the max potential of 120 and adding it to the max potential of your PC (since we don't know what the actual draw is, but we can assume it does not use max), that gives you a total of 740w of max potential draw.

I recommend getting a UPS with a built in regulator, since you're well within the affordable range for that draw.

If you want to go new, here is a GOOD unit form Cyberpower.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP...c&ie=UTF8&qid=1369081466&sr=1-8&keywords=pure

If you don't mind used with new batteries, RefurbUPS is a great place to go. Here is a BETTER unit.
http://www.refurbups.com/APC-SC1500-Smart-UPS-SC-1500

When it comes to the BEST choices, they tend to get pricy. An Online UPS (also known as double conversion) with a pure sinewave output will be at least $400-500 for what you need in the wattage output you require. If it were my setup, I'd be happy with either of the first two choices.
 
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ChrisTracker said:
its LG 42LM6200 3D LED TV
should I buy a 1000 or 1500 watts device?
Thanks for the reply
Click to expand...
Note: VA* != Watts. A 1500VA unit can't deliver 1500 Watts. You'll have to dig into it's specs in order to get the wattage it can deliver.

*Volt Amps
 
As long as the wattage output is equal to or greater than your maximum potential draw, then you can somewhat ignore the VA rating. At that point, a higher VA rating would indicate a longer runtime during blackout.

If I didn't already have a nice unit, I'd get that APC Smart-UPS 1500VA unit from RefurbUPS. Guaranteed to work, fresh batteries, nice price, and all the specs you want with additional headroom to spare.
 
After searching over the net I found out that my LED TV (as monitor) consumes a max wattage of 100-142. And to be exact together with my PSU (620watts) its somewhat around 750-800 watts. Do I need to buy a UPS that has 1000w? or is there any watts between 700-800? Sorry for some noobie question I'm not into this type of device. No idea, really! :confused:
And another question. What VA do I need if I need those wattage? because most of the brands shows only the VA not the wattage capacity of the UPS
Thanks!!!
 
These days most show them together, because you can have two units with the same VA rating but different max draw ratings (watts); this is because of differences in the power conversion circuitry. Both of the units that I linked are rated higher than 762w (your maximum potential draw), but if you decide to go with a different one just make sure the watt rating is higher than 762. Typically speaking, you'll find that a UPS higher than ~1200VA will supply enough juice for your potential draw. To be safe, I recommend 1500VA because that is a common VA rating to find, and it even if you happen to be drawing 762w, which you never will because we're calculating MAX potential not average, there's still some headroom so that you don't lose efficiency or stress the batteries.

For some manufacturers, they say the watt rating right on the front label, for others you'll need to look at the detailed specifications. Make sure you go with one of the reputable brands, and pick one that has a high customer satisfaction rating. In my experience, CyberPower, APC, Tripp Lite, and Liebert have done me well at work and at home, but don't just take my word for it. Also, don't go cheap and get a standby UPS, you want at least Line Interactive or Online, and you'll pay more if it has a pure sinewave output, but in the end it's worth it. Some PSUs with Active PFC don't like the simulated/stepped sine wave and will shut down during the UPS AC-to-batt switchover time.
 
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