ASUS Z77 Motherboards - Official Support Thread

Can you please elaborate on this part of your post?

How is the system connected to the monitors?

Which monitors (make and model)?

Do the monitors have built in USB hubs?


What do you mean by "extension cord"?


Sorry I cannot be of more help, the details in your initial post are too sketchy and ambiguous for me to make out what is going on.

The details are:
* ASUS 238QR DVI plugged to integrated DVI port.
* Samsung 930 VGA plugged to integrated DVI port.

Plug an MP3 to USB which is connected to a USB extension cord (this is extra info..may or may not be cause)...and 20 minutes later...screen displays fuzzy colors and flashes.

I checked bios and wonder if the system is auto-overclocking the iGPU. So I reduced the max IGPU to 1200 from 1400. Wonder if i should lower it down to 1100 or so.
 
Could be iGPU and combination of memory clocks that cause that kind of display corruption.
 
Am hoping some one can help with this, am not a pro so any advice will be helpful.

Have recently installed gtx680 lightening, afterburner software and VIRTU MVP into my rig.

When the display is plugged into the motherboard (i-mode), everything works fine, including Afterburner (at stock settings, haven't tried OCing). The problems arise when trying to plug the monitor directly to the graphics card (d-mode). Windows begins to load normally, but just prior to the login screen the monitor looses the signal and goes blank (except then entering windows safe mode, then it loads OK.)

Have removed all drivers, reinstalled windows and reinstalled drivers & software – first graphics driver, then afterburner and finally VIRTU (this order seemed to work the best).

Now, if I "restart" the PC from windows then the screen will go blank right before the logon, but if I do a full "shutdown" through windows, or by pressing the power button, then everything starts and works fine - both Afterburner and Virtu. From the documentation I read on win8, restart is supposed to be a "full" shutdown, opposed to "shutdown", which is a hybrid restart. Tried disabling hybrid restart for the full shutdown, but it made no difference.

What I noticed is than when doing a restart from windows, all LEDs on the VID card stay on whereas if the PC is "shutdown" either through windows, or power button, then all lights go off.

Not sure if this is a Win8, driver, motherboard, FW, or specific card problem.

System is:

Windows 8 64-bit
Asus P8z77 PRO – FW 1805
Core i7 3770K
16 GB (2x8) Patriot Gamer Series RAM
MSI GTX 680 Lightening
Corsair 850TX V2 Power Supply
OCZ Vertex 4 SSD, 128 GB

Any ideas?
 
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Can't be sure but it sounds like the iGPU is set to be the primary output device instead of your GPU and it seems Windows is defaulting to the iGPU when it starts. It's either that, or the screen display options for the 680 GPU are out of range on the monitor (should not happen, but seeing as you're okay in safe mode there is a possibility). Disable multi-monitor display mode if it is enabled in UEFI and see if that helps.
 
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Thanks Raja

Just received a new Asus VG278 and problem is the same, so not a range issue.

Disabled multi-monitor support and same problem. When switching back to multi-monitor enabled, when restarting windows it went into diagnostic and repair with the suggestion to do a restore. After cancelling out of that a few times and doing hard restarts, it finally loaded back into windows and still with the same problem during "restart". Have tried switching monitor detection in Bios from auto to pci-e and still the same thing.

I recently upgraded to the gtx 680 from a gtx 460 and did not have this issue previously.
 
Multi monitor setting in bios is ONLY for Lucid Logic sw and the multi monitor setup has to be configured correctly in the sw also. Then the sw auto controls which way for the system to go - d or i. You need to find a good tutorial for setting it up (youtube)
Actually as a self confessed newb, setting up LL MVP with Win 8 would not be a walk in the park fer sure.

I am a bit unclear as to whether MVP actually worked for you as intended with older vidcard, or just without the boot issues?
In other words - no startup probs, but never tried the program?

Then theres the issue of having to have both Intel onboard graphics drivers, and vidcard drivers showing at same time in dev manager.
You have to have Intel Graphics drivers installed before anything
Another boobytrap no one told you is that any old Intel drivers would work for Sandy Bridge, but IVY Bridge Gen 3 CPU need Intel 9/27/2012 drivers or later


Another thing is that only the very latest MVP shows as qualified for Win 8, and since they are over time a problem laden sw company, I would take that with a grain of salt. And all the latest vers can only be found on THEIR site.
http://www.lucidlogix.com/driverdownloads-mvp.shtml

Just to prove to yourself everything works, as a baseline I would install Win 7 as normal and DO NOT install any Lucid sw and do NOT set multi monitor in bios and do set PCIe as primary and use DVI connections. Only then would I move along to Win 8, then Win 8 with MVP.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvoMWXPzTlg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3miDw2Iw1SI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHSs0HRsWzU (@5:32)

All this does not even take into account everytime you update the bios up or down you may lose the LL License and will take you into trial mode.

http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=22375
 
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Thanks Raja

Just received a new Asus VG278 and problem is the same, so not a range issue.

Disabled multi-monitor support and same problem. When switching back to multi-monitor enabled, when restarting windows it went into diagnostic and repair with the suggestion to do a restore. After cancelling out of that a few times and doing hard restarts, it finally loaded back into windows and still with the same problem during "restart". Have tried switching monitor detection in Bios from auto to pci-e and still the same thing.

I recently upgraded to the gtx 680 from a gtx 460 and did not have this issue previously.

1) Which output are you using to connect the 680 to the monitor?

2) In safe mode uninstall all display drivers. Then go back into the OS in D-mode and see if you get a display.

It sounds like something got borked on the driver side when you switched out cards. So you've got to bypass whatever Windows is defaulting to that is causing this issue. If that does not help, then a reinstall of the OS in D-mode will fix it.

-Raja
 
Thanks for the help and suggestions Cisco Guy and Raja. Am about to head away from home for a month and will try to play around a bit more before I go, but it may have to wait till my return... will update once I try all the suggestions, or find the solution...

With the GTX460 VIRTU worked fine and there were no start up issues, this has only appeared since installing the 680, which is connected to the monitor through its DVI 1 port. After installing and initially having these problems, I did a "refresh" of windows, rather than a full reinstall, so maybe there were some driver issues carried over...

I will see what I can do before I go,
 
I'm setting up a new P8Z77-I DELUXE/WD, it came with year-old BIOS so I updated to v 0702

-- BCLK setting doesn't seem to work, stuck at 99.8 regardless.

-- Ai Tweaker tab, bottom section does not show actual voltages. e.g. DRAM voltage.

-- BIOS and boot menu are very hard to get into, DEL and F8 are mostly ignored at boot.

-- Boot Override doesn't work, prompts to save bios instead.


Any ideas?
 
How did you update bios? Sounds like you have a corrupt me firmware. As for actual voltages not being shown, can you clarify what you mean? Are you referring to not being able to set them or something else?

Did you update the me firmware? Latest bios is 0902 as well.

These boards do boot fast. You can set a longer boot delay if you are struggling to get into uefi in the fast boot menu.
 
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How did you update bios? Sounds like you have a corrupt me firmware.

I downloaded then used EZ flash utility in BIOS. ME Corrupt? Do you mean "Intel Management Engine Firmware "? I didn't install that. I use Linux, do I still need ME? Asus.com says it's for "Win8 compatibility".



As for actual voltages not being shown, can you clarify what you mean? Are you referring to not being able to set them or something else?

The voltage column in the middle is missing (see image). My Sabertooth shows voltages correctly.

130323235034.png





Did you update the me firmware? Latest bios is 0902 as well.

No, Latest BIOS per asus.com is 0702. Perhaps you mean the P8Z77-I DELUXE? Doesn't it have different BIOS than the P8Z77-I DELUXE/WD? Though I understand they're both the same board except for the wifi device.





These boards do boot fast. You can set a longer boot delay if you are struggling to get into uefi in the fast boot menu.

What do you mean? The item below "full screen logo"?
 
Don't have that board here in front of me so not sure on the location of all settings.

1) I would have thought some of the later builds need ME 8.1 for full functionality. If your ME is corrupt, updating it should "set it straight". The other way of doing things is to use Coderush's methods here on the forum (unofficial).

2) WRT the Boot delay, just look for a setting that says 3 seconds for default and increase it.

3) The BCLK issue sounds like a corrupt ME to me or that the build you have flashed to NEEDs ME 8.1. I am not sure on the voltages being displayed there, can't say for sure.
 
Don't have that board here in front of me so not sure on the location of all settings.

1) I would have thought some of the later builds need ME 8.1 for full functionality. If your ME is corrupt, updating it should "set it straight". The other way of doing things is to use Coderush's methods here on the forum (unofficial).

2) WRT the Boot delay, just look for a setting that says 3 seconds for default and increase it.

3) The BCLK issue sounds like a corrupt ME to me or that the build you have flashed to NEEDs ME 8.1. I am not sure on the voltages being displayed there, can't say for sure.

Thank you, though that doesn't help me much. Asus should ship a functioning product, it's not my job to "fix" it. The "Management Engine Interface" will not install, it says "the computer doesn't meet minimum requirements...", the Intel Management Engine Firmware upgrade program won't run either, it whines about "unrecognized platform..".

BIOS shows nothing for ME version (photo 1) and EZ mode doesn't even know what speed memory is running (photo 2), so unless you have a quick fix I'm inclined to return it because I'm starting to feel like an unpaid quality control technician.

130324165555.png


130324192155.png
 
Thank you, though that doesn't help me much. Asus should ship a functioning product, it's not my job to "fix" it. The "Management Engine Interface" will not install, it says "the computer doesn't meet minimum requirements...", the Intel Management Engine Firmware upgrade program won't run either, it whines about "unrecognized platform..".



Are you trying to run the Windows update tools on Linux? Linux isnt supported officially so there are no update tools for it (Linux isn't advertised as a supported OS either). Your ME is corrupt or the UEFI you are using requires ME 8.1 (if you're doing this on Windows, then the ME is corrupt somehow). If you want to use official methods, you'll need to use Windows to update the ME. If the ME is corrupt and will not update, your other option is to get a BIOS chip from ASUS Support or RMA the board if you don't want to do things yourself.

You can check out Coderush's unofficial tools for updating the ME as an alternative to all of the above.
 
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Are you trying to run the Windows update tools on Linux? Linux isnt supported officially so there are no update tools for it (Linux isn't advertised as a supported OS either). Your ME is corrupt or the UEFI you are using requires ME 8.1 (if you're doing this on Windows, then the ME is corrupt somehow). If you want to use official methods, you'll need to use Windows to update the ME. If the ME is corrupt and will not update, your other option is to get a BIOS chip from ASUS Support or RMA the board if you don't want to do things yourself.

You can check out Coderush's unofficial tools for updating the ME as an alternative to all of the above.

Thank you. No, I booted Windows 7. Windows VMs under Linux have no access to the hardware, I know better than to run a Windows firmware updater in a virtual machine.

But just in case, I powered off, pressed the CMOS reset button, and the mobo never woke up after that. No boot, no beep, just the fan spinning. So I'm sending it back to newegg for refund.

This mobo is an ingenious design, best ITX layout I've ever seen, but Asus needs to work on QA.
 
Which board, which UEFI build?

Sounds like you may have had corrupt ME fw.
P8z77-V Pro

BIOS 1805
EC Version MBEC-Z77-0130
ME Version 8.0.4.1441
South Bridge Stepping C1

I updated it to 8.1 and now I can change the setting
 
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Thank you. No, I booted Windows 7. Windows VMs under Linux have no access to the hardware, I know better than to run a Windows firmware updater in a virtual machine.

But just in case, I powered off, pressed the CMOS reset button, and the mobo never woke up after that. No boot, no beep, just the fan spinning. So I'm sending it back to newegg for refund.

This mobo is an ingenious design, best ITX layout I've ever seen, but Asus needs to work on QA.

I think the screw up here was flashing a ME 8.1 UEFI build, without performing the ME update first, a bad flash or failed OC attempts leading to a corrupt ME block. Should be better instructions up for that I agree. One of the reasons our boards ship with BIOS chips on sockets is so that they can be replaced in situations like this - if the user is willing to get it a try that is. Other than that, good luch with your next board (whichever it happens to be).

-Raja
 
Hey all,

Now that Bioshock infinite is out Ive decided its time to upgrade my gaming htpc and Im looking at getting a Asus P8Z77-M motherboard to use but I have a question that I cant seem to find an answer to and Im hoping that some one here can help me out.

What does the power LED do during standby/sleep/s3 suspend? Does it flash or stay off?
 
new issue on my P8Z77-V Deluxe

the Bluetooth module stopped working... when Bluetooth module is on in bios, it will show up as "unknown device" under USB in device manager.

If I disable Bluetooth the in bios, "unknown device" will disappear.

I can't install drivers for it, because unknown device basically means computer can't recognize it, it won't accept any drivers.
 
Greetings,

Bought an ASUS P8Z77-V LE PLUS main board today. All seems to be working fine *EXCEPT* for some problems with the RAM.

It looks like only one DIMM will work (blue slot), and if I happen to use all 4 slots, my board fails to POST and I see a very red LED right next to the "MemOk" button. If I seat each memory stick individually in the first blue slot, the board continues to POST and works as intended.

I am using 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance RAM (16GB total for all 4 slots)

CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9

I've left all settings default, no POST with all sticks.

I've set the Ai Overclock Tuner to X.M.P, which seems to have auto-detected all settings (CAS, voltage, all), but no POST with all sticks.

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K

Video card: Nvidia GTX 580

HD: OCZ Revodrive

Please advise :D

Thanks!

Edit: There are no bent CPU pins, and the BIOS should be the latest (0901).
 
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Seems you have combined two kits. This can cause issues because the SPD and XMP profile is for a single kit only - not two together. To get it POSTing and stable will need some timing and possibly voltage adjustments.

What I would do to start: Set XMP, but go into the DRAM timing section and add +1 to CAS and tRCD over the XMP value - if XMP sets 9, you set 10 instead. Save and exit UEFI, and let the board POST. Once it POSTs, enter UEFI again. Once in UEFI, power down the system at AC and insert the remaining modules. See if the board will then POST.

If it will not, repeat the above process, only this time, add +1 to the secondary and third timing sets in UEFI also. Repeat and see if it will POST.

-Raja
 
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So Raja, would you have recommended him buy a Quad channel kit (4x8gb) instead of two Dual channel kits? Just wondering cause I'm gearing up for my Haswell build, speaking of which, you wanna share any juicy details Raja :))
 
So Raja, would you have recommended him buy a Quad channel kit (4x8gb) instead of two Dual channel kits? Just wondering cause I'm gearing up for my Haswell build, speaking of which, you wanna share any juicy details Raja :))

I'm not Raja, but I have two different kits, same model, same timing everything and they work great on my -V Deluxe. So, unless you have two different kits, different model, different timing, I don't see why it would be any problem.
 
I agree 100% with Raja's answer.
Anytime you mix kits - even exactly the same, you are rolling the dice.

DDR 1600 1.5V would be your best shot at a working mix
The little 1/4" black SPD mem profiles/timings chip on the PCB would not be super crtiical in this case.
You go DDR1866 or higher and/or 1.65V, then things get even more dicey.

One kit may be manuf 6 months earlier than other.
Companies like GSkill or Corsair buy their DRAMs from others, may require single sided or dual sided array depending on size. Thats why companies that use their own chips like Crucial (Micron) and ADATA are safer to try mixed.

If you go to superbiiz.com and search Super Talent DDR3 memory, you will see chips by Micron/Hynix/Elpida and Samsung. This is the only site that I have seen list the actual dram manuf.

Mixed kits are prob the greatest cause of new builds boot issues.

WJH516N.jpg


rm0V3sz.jpg
 
I'll give it a shot later tonight when I return to work, but in theory...

I should be able to run 8GB minimum with both 4GB DIMMs (occupied on both blue slots) correct? The board doesn't POST at all if I use one kit solely :(
 
Only certain RAM slots working problem possibilities>

mis aligned pin in CPU socket
havent set XMP profile in bios
a RAM slot too tight, not allowing full down and level insertion of stick
Need to do a one minute minimum PSU unplugged cmos reset
Since +5VSB always on - never insert or remove RAM with PSU plugged in
Corsair is most problematic RAM for SB IB ASUS mobo for some reason (IMHO)
Case shorting to underside soldered leads of mobo (standoffs too short)
9 mobo install screws too tight - pinching mobo layers
(both of the previous can be tested for with mobo out of case)
CM 212+ hex nuts overtightened.
 
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Seems you have combined two kits. This can cause issues because the SPD and XMP profile is for a single kit only - not two together. To get it POSTing and stable will need some timing and possibly voltage adjustments.

What I would do to start: Set XMP, but go into the DRAM timing section and add +1 to CAS and tRCD over the XMP value - if XMP sets 9, you set 10 instead. Save and exit UEFI, and let the board POST. Once it POSTs, enter UEFI again. Once in UEFI, power down the system at AC and insert the remaining modules. See if the board will then POST.

If it will not, repeat the above process, only this time, add +1 to the secondary and third timing sets in UEFI also. Repeat and see if it will POST.

-Raja

Followed the procedure exactly as explained, but still not getting any POST. However, I am able to use a pair of DIMM on each slot (one 4GB DIMM on the blue slot, one 4GB DIMM on the black slot), which seems not-so-ideal.

Sadly, I saw cisco guy's post a bit too late, and ordered these from Amazon:

Corsair Dominator 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 2133 MHz (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory (CMT16GX3M4X2133C9)

Should get here tomorrow, but ordered it since it was in the QVL list. I was depressed when cisco guy mentioned that Corsair RAM seems to be the most problematic.

It would suck to have to buy another kit, but I am really out of options unless I want to take another early forced upgrade (kinda already am since I'm moving from a 2600K to a 3770K) to Socket 2011/X79.

Any other advise? A bit bummed that I can't use both 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance RAM kits on the same box, but it is how it is. :|

Thanks for the quick response and support everyone!
 
Got the new Dominator RAM today and shut down the computer + unplugged the PSU. Waited a bit and installed all modules on all slots. No POST.

Removed all modules, and left one DIMM in (the blue socket) and it finally POST, BUT in addition to this, one of the physical volumes on my Revodrive failed (WTF)

I remove the Revodrive (which had a fresh install of Windows 8 a few hours ago, with the old 4GB DIMM in the first blue slot) and continued to navigate to the BIOS screen -> Ai Tweaker to set the XMP profile. I save, let it POST, turn off, unplug, and reseat all 4 modules. No POST.

I'm truly at a loss here. I bought a set of RAM that was indicated on the QVL to work as advertised, and now I have another dead component (one of the two physical volumes on my Revodrive).

I'm not sure if I should just return the board + CPU, and go 2011 instead, and try to avoid ASUS, which would truly suck since I've been using their boards for quite some time.

Someone please throw me some suggestions :(
 
Sounds like the CPU socket LGA has a bent pin, as I mentioned in my previous post. If you return a mobo which does in fact have this condition to Amazon, they will just send you a new in the box mobo, which will then fix your problem.

Amazon always allows X-ship with credit card info from original order as collateral that you will ship back the first board (not debited). It usually takes 5 working days for new board unless you pay extra for 1-2 day ship. Returns are just 3 clicks on the website from your order history.

Had you bought this mobo from Newegg, they would note the socket condition and refuse the RMA.
 
AFAICT, the pins look like theyre in great condition (magnifying glass + lamp to check it out)

I'll head to Fry's tomorrow, and try to get this swapped out since I've only had the board for a few days. Trying to figure out if this is a general problem with the chipset, board, or just plain bad luck as it seems that there are others on the interwebs experiencing the same problem.

Hasn't been a great week :(

...SO TORN...I could just return the CPU/MB and just go X79, ARGH!
 
I didnt realize you bought from Fry's - thats good.
They will test your mobo right there - at least at my Fry's they do.
As a last effort, I would try mobo out of case
Just curious: what Heatsink are you using?
Sometimes using stock Intel heatsink and installing it when mobo out of case involves severe warping of mobo.
 
I'm using a Cuplex Kryos CPU waterblock in a single-loop system at the moment. I did test with the stock HSF prior to getting the waterblock installed, but no success either. The mount for the block doesn't warp the board at all as there are springs between the screws that push the block down to make contact with the heat spreader.

I sure hope that Fry's can test all DIMM slots, maybe there's another culprit here (PSU?)
I'm using a Corsair 750HX PSU at the moment, but I do have a 750TX that I was able to also try out to rule out the PSU, which had no effect on the end result :(
 
I'm not Raja, but I have two different kits, same model, same timing everything and they work great on my -V Deluxe. So, unless you have two different kits, different model, different timing, I don't see why it would be any problem.

You got lucky. It does not work for everyone - depends on IC used, speed of the bin and IMC'sa ability to handle the load at the rated timings. Users generally lack the patience and knowledge to configure the kits for stability when they don't work together plug-and-play. Some end up RMA'ing boards and kits as a result.

There is a reason why single kits rated at high density and speeds command a price premium over going the route of putting two kits together. Sadly, most users think DDR3 is DDR3 so it will just work. Many don't understand what the IMC has to do, or the potential difficulties the IMC experiences having to run dissimilar or even similar kits in tandem at the same speed as single kit rating.

-Raja
 
@Raja, anyword on when we should see a new bios for the p8z77-v Pro? Last one was dated January which was version 1805. In particular it would be nice to see updated OROM supplied by the vendor and having to use any unofficial means to get the OROMS updated.
 
Will Asus release a new bios for Sabertooth Z77? I'm having problems that I cannot change my multiplier... my multiplier is set to 45x and if I put any number it still holds the 45x.
 
To all -V Deluxe owners: What BIOS is everyone running now? I'm on 1709 and I am afraid to update to 1805 for the many reasons stated herein about the problem everyone is having.

If someone/everyone can just say what BIOS they are running, stable or non-stable, that'll be nice.
 
To all -V Deluxe owners: What BIOS is everyone running now? I'm on 1709 and I am afraid to update to 1805 for the many reasons stated herein about the problem everyone is having.

If someone/everyone can just say what BIOS they are running, stable or non-stable, that'll be nice.

1805 has been running great for me. I updated to it soon after it was released.

I did, however, update the various ROMs (VGA, GbE, RST). But other than that, no issues.
 
I think the screw up here was flashing a ME 8.1 UEFI build, without performing the ME update first, a bad flash or failed OC attempts leading to a corrupt ME block. Should be better instructions up for that I agree. One of the reasons our boards ship with BIOS chips on sockets is so that they can be replaced in situations like this - if the user is willing to get it a try that is. Other than that, good luch with your next board (whichever it happens to be).

-Raja

Thank you. Updating the BIOS shouldn’t brick to mobo. Is that what happened here?

So . . . I got ready to pack the mobo for the return and damaged some socket pins with the pin-protector, how ironic.

The plastic covers used to go under the metal clamp but the new ones go over it. I put it under and started to close the clamp, then realized it doesn’t fit. People are used to the old design, Intel should have anticipated that and made sure that the new protector is designed so that it doesn’t ever cause damage, especially if used as per the original design.

Anyway, the socket would probably work if the mobo wasn’t defective, . . . but honestly I can’t return it now. Do you have any ideas? Can Asus replace the socket for a reasonable fee? Does anybody want to buy a brand new mobo with corrupted BIOS and several bent pins for 100 bucks? :eek:
 
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