Asus Z68 and Cool Master Hyper212 Plus

[OneWideBoard]

Just got my items in Asus P8Z68-V LE,Intel i5 2500,16gig G-Skill Sniper DDR3 1600 and Cooler Master 212 Plus.
Well I follwed directions on installing this massive cooler.After all was together,it wouldn't post,it would boot once,auto turn off then come back on.Memory light staying lit.Held Mem Ok button and it would do it's tests then stay on.
I read some boards and apparently there is a problem with the back plate shorting out.So I removed the cooler.After removing the back plate,I did notice some indentations in the insulating material that was on the leg.Fearing the worst,hoping for the best,I put it back together with the stock cooling fan.
It did the same thing,fake boot,then error.So I removed memory,turned it on and got the beeps,so i knew at least it was doing something.Then I tried installing 1 stick of memory in each slot at a time.A1 and A2 had the memory faults.When I put it in B1 slot,it posted,no faults and booted up.Removed and tried in B2..Same thing,booted right up no errors.
So in the end it looks like I shorted out the A channel memory slots.Anytime I put a stick in the A channel with one in the B,It gets the memory error.Remove the A stick and good to go.Looks like I am going to have to try and RMA this.Hoping I won't have a problem.
I think Cool Master needs to address this issue with a warning or at least add some type of thicker insulating material to the backing plate legs.I did notice some thicker rubber spacers but these were for the addition of another fan.
I tried clearing CMOS in another hail Mary attempt but no luck with that either.So I guess this is just a heads up.I really didn't notice any high solder points putting it together but then again,I wasn't really looking,I was just following their directions and did notice insulation material on the feet that went against the board.

 

[OneWideBoard]

following up after a lot of Google searching,seems like this has been a common problem with this particular motherboard.So maybe it was not do to the Coolmaster.Still trying any last ditch efforts to have to avoid doing an RMA but looking like my efforts and not panning out.

 

[jgreen]

Now you have me worried. I just put together a very similar system last night. It's the LX version instead of the LE, but the layout is the same. Have the Hyper 212+ as well, but used the 2nd and 4th slots for memory though.

I haven't tried to boot up yet though because my fron case fan wiring won't reach to an available fan header on the mobo. I'm going to run over to Microcenter to grab an extension first. I'll be on pins and needles the first time I hit the power button!

 

[RealityCrunch]

I'll be on pins and needles the first time I hit the power button!

Don't just power up and hope for the best Remove the cooler, check the insulation material, and perhaps modify it to make sure it's not shorting anything.

 

[OneWideBoard]

Don't just power up and hope for the best Remove the cooler, check the insulation material, and perhaps modify it to make sure it's not shorting anything.

I would recommend just starting out with the stock cooler.That way if you do have problems,you will at least know it wasn't the cooler.If you choose to go ahead and try it,you could eliminate the chance of shorting the board by using the supplied spare fan cushions between the board and feet.
I know this board is real picky on memory,and needs to be in the slots they recommend.that's why made absolutely sure my memory would work with this board.I stated I used 16gig 8x2 but it was actually 8gig.2x4
Good luck!

 

[jgreen]

I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow and see what it looks like. I had been debating going with the Antec water cooling kit, but went the cheaper route with the 212+. Depending on what I find after pulling the backplate off, I may just switch.

 

[jgreen]

Well, pulled it apart, and what I found makes me uncomfortable enough not to use the Hyper 212+. I can see slight indentations on the insulating material in a couple of spots, but it doesn't appear that it goes all the way through to contact metal.

The area that bothers me is on the back edge of the one leg where the insulating material does not cover all of the way to the edge of the metal. There is one solder point in that area that could possibly make contact. It is too close to be absolutely sure. I'd just as soon put a different cooler on.

These pictures should help illustrate the situation:

In this first one, it just shows the backing plate resting on the motherboard. The leg at the upper left is the only one of concern.

In this second photo the upper two circled spots are where there are corresponding indentations on the insulation. The other circled area to the right is the main concern. This is where it could short out.

This last shot shows the insulated side of the leg, and where the insulation doesn't quite cover the metal all the way to the edge.

 

[OneWideBoard]

Yes,this is the exact thing I noticed and same spot,also didn't look like the holes went all the way through but they are such small pinholes,can't be 100% sure.

 

[jgreen]

The Coolermaster is all boxed up, and ready to be returned tomorrow. I'd just as soon get something else that will work straight away.

 

[alphaproject]

Well, I use the same cooler, the 212-plus and my board is the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3

And with the i5-2500k I get a nice 4.3 OC and it posted the very first time.

 

[cisco guy]

Dead specific RAM slots (usually pairs, but not always) is either CPU socket pins ever so slightly off position, or perhaps that CM 212 (and evo) backplate
Borked pins come from bad plastic protector plate removal and CPU insertion proceedure. If you just TOUCH those pins under any condition, they will move, or if you drop in/drop in at angle first the CPU they will move. Your single most important PC building operation is avoiding touching pins during removal/install or CPU pads with fingers. I have never ever had anyone ever admit to me they have misaligned pins after looking carefully, yet with one glance I can see them.
http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030850.htm

As far as the CM212 goes, its a crapshoot. Every mobo version is different, with solder blobs on component leads in all different places. Also the 6 layer mobo can be pinched despite the little notch on standoff post. There used to be mandatory CLEAR areas around HS mounting holes, but they are gone and extremely fine traces are everywhere. And including a wrench socket with phillips/slotted area avail was a major mistake I feel. The public at large has many dif notions of what is "tight". Bottom line: I have studied this mount system to the nth degree going all the way back to last January, and in my own personal humble opinion, if any of my friends asked, I would say dont do it. But people buy by price and at $17 after discount, MILLIONS think of it as first choice/no brainer. (ASUS sold 20.6 million mobo last year) I am not saying YOU shouldnt use it, I am just saying I wouldnt use it! And I cant help but feel thats one reason Intel went to top mount HSF system - no backplate.

 

[jgreen]

I had intended on returning the CM Hyper 212+, but my son said he'd like to have it on his P5K system. It worked fine in that application, and has much lower temps than the stock Intel cooler he'd been using.

I ended up going with the Antec Kuhler H2O 620 on my P8Z68-V LX, and it has been great so far.

 

[Retsam]

Funny so many people have almost the same identical builds. Anyways, has me slightly concerned as I just bought the 212 plus heatsink and a Gigabyte UD3H-B3 and was considering going to the Asus LX or LE instead. Great...

 

[XacTactX]

I'm using the Hyper212+ on the Gigabyte P55-UD2 and haven't had any issues of this sort. Sorry to you guys who did.

 

[cisco guy]

OneWideBoard gave you the best advice here
So, I will repeat it once again
When building your new box always use the STOCK INTEL COOLER - its easy, no pain.
It already has goop on it and can be installed from top
Get everything going so you know you are bootable
Problems with backplate shorting\arcing to solder blobs\pinching mobo layers\standoff crushing tiny traces usually show right at start.
Once you get the O/S loaded and everything good, then you can put on your fav HSF and if something happens, your dignose will be easy. Doing it otherwise leaves you in the dark. This also includes red VGA light no boot issues.

And once again, I said SANDYBRIDGE MOBO!! P67 Z68 ASUS
Not P5T or P-55 or whatever