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ASUS Official X79 Motherboards Support Thread
- Thread starter Raja@ASUS
- Start date
TelecasterMaple
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Hi. I apologize in advance to the experts on this thread for having to post what I'm sure are lame newb questions. I've been seeking help about my new build and I thought I should ask some questions here. Anyways...
I've been running an i7 3930K on an Asus P9X79 Pro mobo at stock clocks with 2X4gb DDR3 1333 GSkill Ripjaw RAM. I recently tried 8gb DDR3 1600 RAM kit (GSkill Snipers) on my system in XMP mode and the boost in performance was quite obvious. But, along with other optimizations, XMP mode kicked the vcore up to 1.31 to 1.32v idle. This put my idle temps at an average of 41°C across all six cores. Load temps went up to around 73°C after 15 minutes of Linpack.
What should I expect in terms of my CPU's lifespan at these operating temps and voltages? Is the 1.30+ idle vcore for the XMP profile Intel-specified or is vcore determined by the board manufacturers? Should the vcore value even be that high at idle? Is this some kind of feature of the board? (XMP automatically enabled something called "all core turbo", I think.) Or do I have a defective board?
I've got a Corsair H80 cooling my CPU . I'm still using Bios version 0802 as it has run very stable for me. Would prefer not to mess with the BIOS as I wouldn't know what I'd be doing. Don't intend to do any real overclocking at the moment. Apart from gaming, I use my PC for multi-threaded recording apps (I'm a professional musician).
I also don't want to spend any more money on a new cooler. So my sole recourse -- should the temps of the 1600 XMP configuration be untenable -- is to revert to running my system on the slower but cooler 1333s. Sort of a letdown, but better than risking damage to my system.
Your advice and opinion will be greatly appreciated.
I've been running an i7 3930K on an Asus P9X79 Pro mobo at stock clocks with 2X4gb DDR3 1333 GSkill Ripjaw RAM. I recently tried 8gb DDR3 1600 RAM kit (GSkill Snipers) on my system in XMP mode and the boost in performance was quite obvious. But, along with other optimizations, XMP mode kicked the vcore up to 1.31 to 1.32v idle. This put my idle temps at an average of 41°C across all six cores. Load temps went up to around 73°C after 15 minutes of Linpack.
What should I expect in terms of my CPU's lifespan at these operating temps and voltages? Is the 1.30+ idle vcore for the XMP profile Intel-specified or is vcore determined by the board manufacturers? Should the vcore value even be that high at idle? Is this some kind of feature of the board? (XMP automatically enabled something called "all core turbo", I think.) Or do I have a defective board?
I've got a Corsair H80 cooling my CPU . I'm still using Bios version 0802 as it has run very stable for me. Would prefer not to mess with the BIOS as I wouldn't know what I'd be doing. Don't intend to do any real overclocking at the moment. Apart from gaming, I use my PC for multi-threaded recording apps (I'm a professional musician).
I also don't want to spend any more money on a new cooler. So my sole recourse -- should the temps of the 1600 XMP configuration be untenable -- is to revert to running my system on the slower but cooler 1333s. Sort of a letdown, but better than risking damage to my system.
Your advice and opinion will be greatly appreciated.
first of all you need to get some utilities
CPUID 1.58 or higher to see running vcore and SPD tab to see profiles
Realtemp to see realtemp
Coretemp to see VID (your particular CPU stock voltage)
You also need to make sure the Corsair standoffs are short ones for 2011 X socket
There is a tiny 1/4 inch square black chip on ea RAM that has the programmed codes for JEDEC and XMP profiles called SPD (serial presence detect). You may have 1-2-3 XMP "profiles" programmed into chip.
(Extended mem profiles). Mobo must be compatible for XMP and yours is.
If you correctly set Intel speedstep in bios (EIST) vcore will be lower than stock at idle.
1.31 idle seems high for a 3930K at stock CPU speed - but I never run stock.. Its the CPU higher multiplier that requires plus vcore. Fwiw the guys over at xtremesystems run their CPU at 1.425-450 24/7. Are you talking about CPU VCore? Use the utilities to gain some info. Are you saying the 1333 RAM had lower Vcore in XMP? What was it?
In the adv bios first page (AI Tweaker) what does it say for target speed?
You can make bios screenshots for ea page with a USB FAT32 stick inserted and hitting F12. Then you can go to imgur.com and drag and drop ea of the .bmp's to the home page and upload ea then post the direct LINKS here. It takes up a bunch of space and bandwidth here to post the actual images. Links only are fine.
Four bios pages starting with...........
AITweak top 2 page sections
Digi plus power control
CPU perf
Advanced - CPU config
would be nice for a start. The screenies will only take whats showing, so you may need more than one for full page.
CPUID 1.58 or higher to see running vcore and SPD tab to see profiles
Realtemp to see realtemp
Coretemp to see VID (your particular CPU stock voltage)
You also need to make sure the Corsair standoffs are short ones for 2011 X socket
There is a tiny 1/4 inch square black chip on ea RAM that has the programmed codes for JEDEC and XMP profiles called SPD (serial presence detect). You may have 1-2-3 XMP "profiles" programmed into chip.
(Extended mem profiles). Mobo must be compatible for XMP and yours is.
If you correctly set Intel speedstep in bios (EIST) vcore will be lower than stock at idle.
1.31 idle seems high for a 3930K at stock CPU speed - but I never run stock.. Its the CPU higher multiplier that requires plus vcore. Fwiw the guys over at xtremesystems run their CPU at 1.425-450 24/7. Are you talking about CPU VCore? Use the utilities to gain some info. Are you saying the 1333 RAM had lower Vcore in XMP? What was it?
In the adv bios first page (AI Tweaker) what does it say for target speed?
You can make bios screenshots for ea page with a USB FAT32 stick inserted and hitting F12. Then you can go to imgur.com and drag and drop ea of the .bmp's to the home page and upload ea then post the direct LINKS here. It takes up a bunch of space and bandwidth here to post the actual images. Links only are fine.
Four bios pages starting with...........
AITweak top 2 page sections
Digi plus power control
CPU perf
Advanced - CPU config
would be nice for a start. The screenies will only take whats showing, so you may need more than one for full page.
TelecasterMaple
n00b
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2012
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@cisco guy:
Thanks for taking time to reply. I presently have the 1333s installed, but will now download the utilities you recommended then install the 1600s. I think I can answer a few of your questions off the bat, though.
Yes, I'm pretty sure the standoffs I used are the short ones for the 2011 socket. A friend of mine, who owns an X79 rig and an H100, reseated the block a couple of times. No change in temps. I've got a secure fit -- not too tight, not too loose.
I'm currently using HWMonitor. Yes, 1.31 idle was CPU VCore with the 1600s XMP profile with 9-9-9-24 timings at 1.25v DRAM voltage (the rated timings and voltage of the GSkill Sniper kit). I noted it down. I left all settings -- including EIST -- at auto or default and was using the values automatically set by the mobo. I think the XMP profile for the 1600s altered the CPU multiplier settings. Not sure but will check that and get back to you about it.
Also, the P9X79 Pro does not offer an XMP profile for my 1333 RAM: it's all auto and defaults at 9-9-9-24 and 1.5v DRAM voltage. CPU VCore at stock idle is much lower when I use the 1333 kit: 0.88v.
Will install the 1600s and try to take screenshots as you recommended.
Again, thank you thank you thank you for helping me out. I'm among those who find these things quite difficult to learn.
Thanks for taking time to reply. I presently have the 1333s installed, but will now download the utilities you recommended then install the 1600s. I think I can answer a few of your questions off the bat, though.
Yes, I'm pretty sure the standoffs I used are the short ones for the 2011 socket. A friend of mine, who owns an X79 rig and an H100, reseated the block a couple of times. No change in temps. I've got a secure fit -- not too tight, not too loose.
I'm currently using HWMonitor. Yes, 1.31 idle was CPU VCore with the 1600s XMP profile with 9-9-9-24 timings at 1.25v DRAM voltage (the rated timings and voltage of the GSkill Sniper kit). I noted it down. I left all settings -- including EIST -- at auto or default and was using the values automatically set by the mobo. I think the XMP profile for the 1600s altered the CPU multiplier settings. Not sure but will check that and get back to you about it.
Also, the P9X79 Pro does not offer an XMP profile for my 1333 RAM: it's all auto and defaults at 9-9-9-24 and 1.5v DRAM voltage. CPU VCore at stock idle is much lower when I use the 1333 kit: 0.88v.
Will install the 1600s and try to take screenshots as you recommended.
Again, thank you thank you thank you for helping me out. I'm among those who find these things quite difficult to learn.
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The 1333 kit you have may not have a XMP profile (needs to have one for it to be used).
As for the voltages, I think setting DDR3-1600 will turn off some of the C-States hence the voltage change.
-Raja
TelecasterMaple
n00b
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- Feb 15, 2012
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Hi
@ Raja: Do I take this to mean that the seemingly high idle VCore is as it should be? If so, then can I assume that using the 1600 RAM in XMP mode at the abovementioned voltage is safe and will cause no damage to my PC over the long term -- say two years or so?
@cisco guy: Sorry. I may have been wrong about the multi. And yeah, I have the RAM sticks installed in the correct slots. Anyway, a friend of mine who helps me out with the rig says what happens when XMP is enabled on the 1600 kit is that "the board automatically implements the max turbo for any CPU usage." He seems convinced that it's a built-in feature of the P9X79 Pro. Would that account for the high idle VCore?
At any rate, my primary concern is the lifespan of my CPU as I am unsure as to whether the abovementioned voltages will hasten system degradation with gaming, recording demos and ordinary daily usage. As mentioned earlier, my idle core temps are around 41°C (hottest core) while full load temps with OCCT rise to as much as 73°C (again, hottest core).
If the voltages are set at these levels by Asus' design, then can I assume that I have nothing to worry about voltage-wise? And what about the temps produced? Would you guys think I can expect my CPU to last two, perhaps three, years running on these temps and voltages?
I realize that these are tedious and irritating questions to answer so I truly appreciate that you've taken the time to reply. I've asked my friend to come over to install the 1600 RAM kit for me -- just to be doubly sure everything is done correctly. Will post screenshots requested by cisco guy ASAP.
Many thanks!
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I tired downloading AII Suite from asus and it just fails. I take it I'm missing something?
Yeah AI Suite always has probs, espec X64
Its sexy looking and neat features, but I wouldnt use it if they paid me, at least until its straightened out. The temps and fan speeds usually wrong
Fwiw:
You must turn off all AV
Win 7 SP1 embedded (not added or slipstreamed) with all 122 updates
Right click run as admin
Dot net 3.51 then update to 4.0 client
You could even try in safe mode
Redownload latest from ASUS (they really should give an MD5 for the thing)
May take a fresh Win 7 install - lol
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/292703-30-asus-suite-utilities
There is even a patch
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx...7&id=20110715204952285&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx...d=1&model=P8Z68-V/GEN3&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
http://support.asus.com/Search/KDetail.aspx?SLanguage=en&no=B0CE1E0F-02A6-3B76-712C-CC36FF6174CD&t=2
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Dont worry about the questions
And yes Intel Turbo will do it - not XMP, it never occurs to me because I never use it. OCTurbo is a built in INTEL overclock that is programmed into the die/UEFI itself. Theres no reason to use it - (has many parameters in bios) if you are going to overclock things yourself. For example if you click the TPU switch on and boot to Win 7 twice it will auto disable Intel Turbo and give you a very nice workable overclock..
On a 3930K turbo takes the 3.2GHz stock UP TO 3.9Ghz
On a 2500K turbo takes a 3.3 stock to 3.7
On a 2600K turbo takes a 3.4 stock to 3.8
You cant hurt CPU with temps, it will just shuit down
Those temps are good, these CPU run hot, thats why everyone runs waterblocks - but good ones like koolance or Swiftech
But you can hurt CPU with voltage
http://www.intel.com/technology/product/demos/turboboost/demo.htm?iid=tech_demo+tb
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7106683
Cant go any further without info from utilities
And stresser apps like OCCT will wreck stuff
Forgive me - dont understand if you have your own guru right there why you need HardForum?
And yes Intel Turbo will do it - not XMP, it never occurs to me because I never use it. OCTurbo is a built in INTEL overclock that is programmed into the die/UEFI itself. Theres no reason to use it - (has many parameters in bios) if you are going to overclock things yourself. For example if you click the TPU switch on and boot to Win 7 twice it will auto disable Intel Turbo and give you a very nice workable overclock..
On a 3930K turbo takes the 3.2GHz stock UP TO 3.9Ghz
On a 2500K turbo takes a 3.3 stock to 3.7
On a 2600K turbo takes a 3.4 stock to 3.8
You cant hurt CPU with temps, it will just shuit down
Those temps are good, these CPU run hot, thats why everyone runs waterblocks - but good ones like koolance or Swiftech
But you can hurt CPU with voltage
http://www.intel.com/technology/product/demos/turboboost/demo.htm?iid=tech_demo+tb
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7106683
Cant go any further without info from utilities
And stresser apps like OCCT will wreck stuff
Forgive me - dont understand if you have your own guru right there why you need HardForum?
This fixed it for me.
Although I couldn't find the 3.0.1.7016 drivers anymore (page no longer exists) but I did get this working with the 3.0.0.3020 drivers. Downloaded a clean Win7 iso and made a bootable USB with updates integrated and voila.
TelecasterMaple
n00b
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2012
- Messages
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You cant hurt CPU with temps, it will just shuit down
Those temps are good, these CPU run hot, thats why everyone runs waterblocks - but good ones like koolance or Swiftech
But you can hurt CPU with voltage
http://www.intel.com/technology/product/demos/turboboost/demo.htm?iid=tech_demo+tb
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7106683
Cant go any further without info from utilities
And stresser apps like OCCT will wreck stuff
Forgive me - dont understand if you have your own guru right there why you need HardForum?
I'm not sure whether this was in answer to my post, but in any case, my friend is hardly a "guru". Half the time he doesn't know what he's doing, as well. It was he who suggested that I consult this section of Hard Forum. I think he does his research here, as well.
We're about to open up the case and install the 1600 RAM now.
Thanks.
Note VID in coretemp for baseline on your CPU
run the 1333 RAM - check vcore in cpuid idle
first turbo enabled then disabled in bios
then install 1600, set XMP
see vcore in CPUID Idle - can turbo be enabled or disabled with XMP? If it can be disabled or is disabled, see vcore.with and without
Cant do it on fly unfortunately, have to change bios, shutdown then reboot to windows
Just trying to see if XMP does dif vcore with and without Turbo on.
Back tomorrow morning
run the 1333 RAM - check vcore in cpuid idle
first turbo enabled then disabled in bios
then install 1600, set XMP
see vcore in CPUID Idle - can turbo be enabled or disabled with XMP? If it can be disabled or is disabled, see vcore.with and without
Cant do it on fly unfortunately, have to change bios, shutdown then reboot to windows
Just trying to see if XMP does dif vcore with and without Turbo on.
Back tomorrow morning
Yeah I don't know. But with all the hassle I have had and the poor performance I have so far observed from this board raid wise (my X68 system with the same harddrives is over twice the I/O capacity) I am disabling the onboard controller completely and getting a LSI raid card.
Wish I could have waited for Ive Bridge and the second run of this chipset. Ohwell.
I've got an issue with my new Sabertooth x79. The problem is the audio (Realtek ACL892). With no front panel connected internally and no rear jacks other than green (front speaker line out) connected to speakers, I get considerable static. However, I can still get sound: if I turned up the external speaker volume very high, I get static, but I also get the sound. It "barely" plays. The windows sound volume level is at 80. I tried 100 as well with no meaningful change. I have to turn up the external amplifier very high but I can get sound. Leaving the volume at a normal level yields a high pitch ring -- probably a few thousand hertz -- and the sound from Windows is not audible.
I've tried both the Realtek driver supplied via Asus.com, as well as the Microsoft default one. I currently have the RealTek driver installed.
I tried optical/coaxial output as well (via the motherboard 4-pin SPDIF output). On this board, these ports usually do not output sound. However, if I play a test sound repeatedly, I get bits and fragments of it. It plays "intermittently" via the digital outputs.
I tried the rear audio output as well, by plugging my 2.1 speakers into the rear output jack (black). These also play if configured appropriately, but I again have to turn the volume up extremely high (externally) and get static.
Audio does work in Windows via HDMI out on my video card. The computer is capable of emitting audio, but not (effectively) via the onboard RealTek chip.
Perhaps related: I get a lot of notifications that I've unplugged/plugged in a device to an audio jack. Earlier, with the Windows driver, the "Playback" tab of the "Sound" panel was literally flickering as it constantly added/removed a kind of "phantom" headphones. I'm currently using the Realtek driver and the notifications have diminished considerably, but still exist.
So, this looks like a grounding/electrical issue. I used my volt meter and verified the back I/O plate is grounded, and checked a few other obvious things that should be ground, but that all checked out. The case is definitely grounded as is the I/O plate.
Hardware includes:
i3930k (not overclocked)
Sabertooth x79 w/ 0906 BIOS
Corsair 32GB DDR-1600 RAM (at 1600)
Corsair HX650 PSU (PSU worked fine in previous system)
Corsair H100 water cooling
OS is Windows 7 x64.
I don't know what to try at this point. Everything else on the machine works great and I'm otherwise very happy with it. All I can think to try is reseating the motherboard but I really doubt that will fix anything. The I/O plate is definitely installed all the way ("snapped in"). Suggestions?
Edit: To add a bit more, the RealTek software reports the "front panel" jack as the culprit being plugged in/unplugged repeatedly. I can bypass this by disabling the RealTek tray notification, but the Windows sound Playback tab still reports that this jack is repeatedly plugged in and unplugged. Importantly, I have completely unplugged this jack on the motherboard: there is nothing plugged into the internal Sabertooth front panel pins currently, but I still get this message.
Edit again: I've worked around the plug/unplug issue by converting the front panel type in the RealTek software to AC/97. The front panel audio won't work, of course, but it stops the plug/unplug issue. However, the no-effective-playback persists.
I've tried both the Realtek driver supplied via Asus.com, as well as the Microsoft default one. I currently have the RealTek driver installed.
I tried optical/coaxial output as well (via the motherboard 4-pin SPDIF output). On this board, these ports usually do not output sound. However, if I play a test sound repeatedly, I get bits and fragments of it. It plays "intermittently" via the digital outputs.
I tried the rear audio output as well, by plugging my 2.1 speakers into the rear output jack (black). These also play if configured appropriately, but I again have to turn the volume up extremely high (externally) and get static.
Audio does work in Windows via HDMI out on my video card. The computer is capable of emitting audio, but not (effectively) via the onboard RealTek chip.
Perhaps related: I get a lot of notifications that I've unplugged/plugged in a device to an audio jack. Earlier, with the Windows driver, the "Playback" tab of the "Sound" panel was literally flickering as it constantly added/removed a kind of "phantom" headphones. I'm currently using the Realtek driver and the notifications have diminished considerably, but still exist.
So, this looks like a grounding/electrical issue. I used my volt meter and verified the back I/O plate is grounded, and checked a few other obvious things that should be ground, but that all checked out. The case is definitely grounded as is the I/O plate.
Hardware includes:
i3930k (not overclocked)
Sabertooth x79 w/ 0906 BIOS
Corsair 32GB DDR-1600 RAM (at 1600)
Corsair HX650 PSU (PSU worked fine in previous system)
Corsair H100 water cooling
OS is Windows 7 x64.
I don't know what to try at this point. Everything else on the machine works great and I'm otherwise very happy with it. All I can think to try is reseating the motherboard but I really doubt that will fix anything. The I/O plate is definitely installed all the way ("snapped in"). Suggestions?
Edit: To add a bit more, the RealTek software reports the "front panel" jack as the culprit being plugged in/unplugged repeatedly. I can bypass this by disabling the RealTek tray notification, but the Windows sound Playback tab still reports that this jack is repeatedly plugged in and unplugged. Importantly, I have completely unplugged this jack on the motherboard: there is nothing plugged into the internal Sabertooth front panel pins currently, but I still get this message.
Edit again: I've worked around the plug/unplug issue by converting the front panel type in the RealTek software to AC/97. The front panel audio won't work, of course, but it stops the plug/unplug issue. However, the no-effective-playback persists.
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fwiw, if you are having probs with Realtek, may take hours and hours to sort it out. Best to just buy a $100 - $130 Titanium and be done with it, and it will also sound a lot better.
Having said that.......
If you are not plugging anything in to front panel, then you still have to set front panel as HD in bios, and put the front panel HD molex in port on mobo
You need R2.67 HD Realtek drivers from their site
This brings up another issue, once Win 7 gets used to using something for sound it doesnt like to give it up, so one has to remove all sound devices from dev man and then reboot and just add the R2.67 to start fresh. Then you can add what you want.
If you look in programs features, and see MSU (Marvel Storage Utility) you will have to uninstall it - it wrecks Realtek for some reason
There are volume sliders all over the place you are going to have to find them and max them ALL out
>Realtek control panel
>Windows in taskbar
>Win 7 sound in cntrl panel
The EMF fron H-100 may be doing it - to test this out you will have to use some other HS
Wireless devices/dongles noisy vidcard bearings etc also could cause static - try PCIe and CPU spread spectrum, one at a time and then both
The new ASUS mobo coming out have a separate mobo layer just for sound to isolate it from other crap on mobo
If you have a bad chip and you put your finger on it after being used a while, it will be hot.
But the most important thing is the Sound controller devices in Dev Manager. I have seen as many as 7 listed
So I need a screenshot of that item expanded and large enough so I can see it (no 2560 resolution)
Sound issues are a royal PITA
Edit: you were editing (twice) while I was posting
So now we went from static and no volume to popups
There are three additional items on Realtek CC
The advance options in far upper right
The yellow folder under it - double click
And double clicking or right clicking a lit up port icon
You also have to highlight the device you want to be default (speakers) and "set as default"
This will then be reflected in Win 7 sound (cntrl panel)
Having said that.......
If you are not plugging anything in to front panel, then you still have to set front panel as HD in bios, and put the front panel HD molex in port on mobo
You need R2.67 HD Realtek drivers from their site
This brings up another issue, once Win 7 gets used to using something for sound it doesnt like to give it up, so one has to remove all sound devices from dev man and then reboot and just add the R2.67 to start fresh. Then you can add what you want.
If you look in programs features, and see MSU (Marvel Storage Utility) you will have to uninstall it - it wrecks Realtek for some reason
There are volume sliders all over the place you are going to have to find them and max them ALL out
>Realtek control panel
>Windows in taskbar
>Win 7 sound in cntrl panel
The EMF fron H-100 may be doing it - to test this out you will have to use some other HS
Wireless devices/dongles noisy vidcard bearings etc also could cause static - try PCIe and CPU spread spectrum, one at a time and then both
The new ASUS mobo coming out have a separate mobo layer just for sound to isolate it from other crap on mobo
If you have a bad chip and you put your finger on it after being used a while, it will be hot.
But the most important thing is the Sound controller devices in Dev Manager. I have seen as many as 7 listed
So I need a screenshot of that item expanded and large enough so I can see it (no 2560 resolution)
Sound issues are a royal PITA
Edit: you were editing (twice) while I was posting
So now we went from static and no volume to popups
There are three additional items on Realtek CC
The advance options in far upper right
The yellow folder under it - double click
And double clicking or right clicking a lit up port icon
You also have to highlight the device you want to be default (speakers) and "set as default"
This will then be reflected in Win 7 sound (cntrl panel)
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If DDR3-1600 causes some of the C-States such as C1E to become inactive all that will happen is that the IDLE voltage of the CPU will no longer ramp down. This has nothing at all to do with damaging the CPU, as the VID is still within tolerance. If you want to retain the low VID then you will have to make some manual changes.
-Raja
To recap the problem: I can deal with the plug/unplug popup notifications -- I know how to disable those. But the audio quality is absolutely abysmal because I can only hear something if I crank it very high and then it's always accompanied by static and ringing. As Cisco Guy mentioned, this sounds like an interference issue of some kind.
I see your point though that it's a possibility.
One graphics card is an EVGA 460GTX -- it worked fine in my previous machine anyway. The other video card is new, an EVGA 210 passively cooled card. I just bought this one to run more monitors.
I uninstalled the Asus Realtek drivers, rebooted. At that point, the Realtek entry in device manager changed to a Microsoft one -- it was using the default driver at that point. The issue persisted. I then installed the R2.67 drivers from Realtek directly (not via Asus). The problem persists with those as well.
Here are some screenshots showing configuration (with Realtek R2.67 installed). I've disabled most onboard devices but the problem persists:
I tried uninstalling all the nvidia entries in the device manager (below) and they all came back after reboot. I have two video cards and each has an HDMI output.
I've tried several different checkbox configurations here to no effect:
I've tried a variety of different volume levels in this window for the various components (front/rear/side etc) to no effect:
I've tried a variety of different output formats here to no effect:
I hope that covers all your suggestions. Let me know if you can think of something else I should be trying. Thanks! Blasted computer issues.
This time I won't edit the post after posting
I bought my fiance some Sennheiser HD-650 headphones and Nuforce HDP external USB DAC/AMP and it sounds pretty good compared to on-board sound, no doubt about that
Front panel jack on motherboard is unplugged -- the driver reports something is being plugged into it (and unplugged, repeatedly), but nothing is. The BIOS is set to HD in any case. I also checked that my case's front panel pin configuration is for "HD audio" and not AC/97, but as I mentioned, it's not plugged in anyway. It's a Lian Li V2120X in case it matters.
. If I have to replace the H100 to get the sound working right then I won't be getting the sound working
I see your point though that it's a possibility.I physically removed my WiFi adapter earlier to no effect. I also enabled PCIe and CPU spread spectrum -- again, no effect.
One graphics card is an EVGA 460GTX -- it worked fine in my previous machine anyway. The other video card is new, an EVGA 210 passively cooled card. I just bought this one to run more monitors.
I uninstalled the Asus Realtek drivers, rebooted. At that point, the Realtek entry in device manager changed to a Microsoft one -- it was using the default driver at that point. The issue persisted. I then installed the R2.67 drivers from Realtek directly (not via Asus). The problem persists with those as well.
Here are some screenshots showing configuration (with Realtek R2.67 installed). I've disabled most onboard devices but the problem persists:
I tried uninstalling all the nvidia entries in the device manager (below) and they all came back after reboot. I have two video cards and each has an HDMI output.
I've tried several different checkbox configurations here to no effect:
I've tried a variety of different volume levels in this window for the various components (front/rear/side etc) to no effect:
I've tried a variety of different output formats here to no effect:
I hope that covers all your suggestions. Let me know if you can think of something else I should be trying. Thanks! Blasted computer issues.
wow, you are a power user, thats for sure
>When you install vidcards you can do express or custom, in custom you can uncheck all the advanced codecs like DivX, or just install bare drivers. You seem to have 4 individual outputs for ea card. You could remove one card physically (for now) and the second in dev man, reboot, cancel out the new device redetect, and see if codecs still there in sound controllers dev man, and if so delete them, and just install the bare Nvidiadrivers.
>Did you look to see if Programs-features in cntrl panel has the Marvel MSU?
>I didnt mean for you to stop running the H-100 - just to remove it to see if when its physically away from mobo the static stops
>You def should go to Klite and get their latest megapak, both X86 and the separate X64 addin. Then check everything including playlists and classic Media player and WMP also during install. Then you will have to add multiple program file associations for ea type audio. Download a youtube .flv music vid and right click it and associate it with WMP and see if it plays
Win XP SP3 WMP had lots of codecs, but Win 7 waits for third party devices to load them.
My first P8P67 I couldnt play sound without the Klite codecs.
>Those tiny round red circles with slash in them means muted. In your case I would unmute everything in your level tab and raise to 100% also make sure balance tab reflects that
You main Win vol meter may also be muted
>Your realtek sound is at 80% - max everything
>You seem to have Samsung monitor audio, was there some kind of install CD with that? I am posting on a LG monitor with speakers and dont have that associated with Windows sound, it has its own output. Is that the USB sound controller device? Or the Xbox? Life Cam?
> You hve way too much stuff hooked up. You just cant max out your PC with devices and hope to have it work plug and play. You have to start bare min then when that works add something else and so on. Then when something goes wrong you know it.
One vid card, bare driver load, one set speakers 2.1, Klite mega pak and get the Realtek working perfectly
Tho I would like to congratulate you - you have the most complex audio setup I have ever seen - lol
>When you install vidcards you can do express or custom, in custom you can uncheck all the advanced codecs like DivX, or just install bare drivers. You seem to have 4 individual outputs for ea card. You could remove one card physically (for now) and the second in dev man, reboot, cancel out the new device redetect, and see if codecs still there in sound controllers dev man, and if so delete them, and just install the bare Nvidiadrivers.
>Did you look to see if Programs-features in cntrl panel has the Marvel MSU?
>I didnt mean for you to stop running the H-100 - just to remove it to see if when its physically away from mobo the static stops
>You def should go to Klite and get their latest megapak, both X86 and the separate X64 addin. Then check everything including playlists and classic Media player and WMP also during install. Then you will have to add multiple program file associations for ea type audio. Download a youtube .flv music vid and right click it and associate it with WMP and see if it plays
Win XP SP3 WMP had lots of codecs, but Win 7 waits for third party devices to load them.
My first P8P67 I couldnt play sound without the Klite codecs.
>Those tiny round red circles with slash in them means muted. In your case I would unmute everything in your level tab and raise to 100% also make sure balance tab reflects that
You main Win vol meter may also be muted
>Your realtek sound is at 80% - max everything
>You seem to have Samsung monitor audio, was there some kind of install CD with that? I am posting on a LG monitor with speakers and dont have that associated with Windows sound, it has its own output. Is that the USB sound controller device? Or the Xbox? Life Cam?
> You hve way too much stuff hooked up. You just cant max out your PC with devices and hope to have it work plug and play. You have to start bare min then when that works add something else and so on. Then when something goes wrong you know it.
One vid card, bare driver load, one set speakers 2.1, Klite mega pak and get the Realtek working perfectly
Tho I would like to congratulate you - you have the most complex audio setup I have ever seen - lol
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OK, here's some more info:
- The static occurs even with no sound playing.
- The static does not occur in the motherboard's BIOS setup. It starts during boot (when the Windows logo is on the screen). At first I thought this was a good sign, but my guess is that the chip is simply not active at that point. I'm not just being "picky" about this static -- it's very obvious even at modest volume levels. There is also a "ringing" sound.
- I tried booting two different Linux USB distributions. Ubuntu and Geexbox. Both exhibit the same static even when not playing a media file. The static in each case starts while Linux is booting.
- I physically unplugged everything from the motherboard except the boot drive, one video card, the power, and fans. Problem persisted. All USB devices, and all cards were disconnected.
- I tried the other video card: problem persisted.
This is clearly not a software problem, unless the Windows and Linux drivers both don't work.
I have to get some actual work done now, but I'd be "happy" to entertain further suggestions, perhaps tomorrow or later. Thanks for everything you've mentioned so far.
Edit: I kept the H100 plugged in -- I'm not sure how I'd go about removing that from the equation since without the CPU would overheat. Suggestions?
- The static occurs even with no sound playing.
- The static does not occur in the motherboard's BIOS setup. It starts during boot (when the Windows logo is on the screen). At first I thought this was a good sign, but my guess is that the chip is simply not active at that point. I'm not just being "picky" about this static
-- it's very obvious even at modest volume levels. There is also a "ringing" sound.- I tried booting two different Linux USB distributions. Ubuntu and Geexbox. Both exhibit the same static even when not playing a media file. The static in each case starts while Linux is booting.
- I physically unplugged everything from the motherboard except the boot drive, one video card, the power, and fans. Problem persisted. All USB devices, and all cards were disconnected.
- I tried the other video card: problem persisted.
This is clearly not a software problem, unless the Windows and Linux drivers both don't work.
I have to get some actual work done now, but I'd be "happy" to entertain further suggestions, perhaps tomorrow or later.
Thanks for everything you've mentioned so far.Edit: I kept the H100 plugged in -- I'm not sure how I'd go about removing that from the equation since without the CPU would overheat. Suggestions?
I found a new bios 1201 on another forum. My board came with 1005 and I updated it with 1101, but I am reading a bit about the new bios and it seems people are getting some nice overclocks with it.
Is any one here using the new bios and if you are what websites do you trust to download the new bios if it is not from asus's website.
Is any one here using the new bios and if you are what websites do you trust to download the new bios if it is not from asus's website.
@mattsaccount
not take the waterblock off, pull the fans and radiator assembly away from mobo. I dont know how long the cables are, just hold it in your hand I guess
Live near a powerplant/celltower/airport?
Refig on line or some major appliance?
Maybe your neighbor is a Russkie spy sending morse code.
To keep your sanity you will have to buy a Creative Titanium card.
Right?
Then again, might be an out of place LGA pin?
not take the waterblock off, pull the fans and radiator assembly away from mobo. I dont know how long the cables are, just hold it in your hand I guess
Live near a powerplant/celltower/airport?
Refig on line or some major appliance?
Maybe your neighbor is a Russkie spy sending morse code.
To keep your sanity you will have to buy a Creative Titanium card.
Right?
Then again, might be an out of place LGA pin?
Regarding sources of interference, I can't think of any. I checked a map for cell phone tower locations but don't see any nearby. No fridge etc on this circuit. No fluorescent (or any) lights are on (woohoo for windows)
Hmm, in thinking about it more, I think the key is that optical output doesn't work either. This should be an all-digital path. Interference from other components should not affect the optical output. Audiophiles like optical and coaxial outputs for that reason -- the idea is to do the digital to analog conversion externally, away from the "noisy" computer case.
Since optical just uses the PCM audio format, it means that if I play a wav file, for example, it should be transmitted "verbatim" to the external device (via the optical cable). However, the optical output on this machine doesn't work either. It's intermittent, and mostly just does not work. I know the optical cable is good since I used it on my old machine.
I just experimented with the optical output some more. I have it connected to my stereo. I tried all the different output formats (e.g. DTS, Dolby Digital) etc. The default is just "PCM." The stereo recognized the format specified, but still played nothing. Levels in Windows were at 100%.
Given that, I think this board/chip is bad. Digital out should play without interference -- instead, it does not play at all.
Hmm, in thinking about it more, I think the key is that optical output doesn't work either. This should be an all-digital path. Interference from other components should not affect the optical output. Audiophiles like optical and coaxial outputs for that reason -- the idea is to do the digital to analog conversion externally, away from the "noisy" computer case.
Since optical just uses the PCM audio format, it means that if I play a wav file, for example, it should be transmitted "verbatim" to the external device (via the optical cable). However, the optical output on this machine doesn't work either. It's intermittent, and mostly just does not work. I know the optical cable is good since I used it on my old machine.
I just experimented with the optical output some more. I have it connected to my stereo. I tried all the different output formats (e.g. DTS, Dolby Digital) etc. The default is just "PCM." The stereo recognized the format specified, but still played nothing. Levels in Windows were at 100%.
Given that, I think this board/chip is bad.
Digital out should play without interference -- instead, it does not play at all.Amazon.com last week. I have until March 17 they say.
I already tossed some of the packaging and so forth -- do you know if they care as long as they get back the board / accessories?
I'm really tempted to have them replace it.
Edit: I still have the box, just not the wrappers etc for the little pieces.
I already tossed some of the packaging and so forth -- do you know if they care as long as they get back the board / accessories?
I'm really tempted to have them replace it.
Edit: I still have the box, just not the wrappers etc for the little pieces.
Amazon is the best ever. No hassle returns and they use your CC# from orig purchase to crosship - if you just check that box.
I wouldnt even think about buying a mobo from anyone else.
I heard a NPR radio interview with billionaire Jeff Bezos and he said Amazon got where it is with cutomer satisfaction - and I believe it.
Edit for your edit:
I once sent a board back to ASUS with nothing - no cables, manual CD or Renesa box and they sent me back a whole new setup. But they will not accept a mobo without the CPU protector in.
And more often than not, they will say board is O.K. and send exact same one back. I always mark the edge of bad board with felt pen.
I wouldnt even think about buying a mobo from anyone else.
I heard a NPR radio interview with billionaire Jeff Bezos and he said Amazon got where it is with cutomer satisfaction - and I believe it.
Edit for your edit:
I once sent a board back to ASUS with nothing - no cables, manual CD or Renesa box and they sent me back a whole new setup. But they will not accept a mobo without the CPU protector in.
And more often than not, they will say board is O.K. and send exact same one back. I always mark the edge of bad board with felt pen.
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Indeed, the replacement will be here Wednesday. I checked and I have all the parts, so I'll definitely be able to return everything, so I'm not too worried. Amazon Prime FTW. I'm going to overnight some Arctic Silver 5 as well, since I don't have any thermal compound. Edit: err -- two day. Whatever. That'll be here Wednesday too. Then I can ship back the defective one promptly.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/...ormula-gene-x79-owners-club/740#post_16477196 about half way down the page is the one i found with a simple search, but there are more.
rody
ps
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?10769-R4E-1103-New-BIOS
This was posted by Shamino so I suppose it is legit.
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Ref your post #178.
Is this the new "approved" way to make it work? Are you out of luck if you try to install x64 (pre-SP1) on 2xSSD in RAID 0 on the 6Gb ports with ship BIOS and CD RSTe?
I could swap the Asus P9X79 WS for an Intel DX79SI, but the problem may be the same.
Its not the "approved way". Its my way.
Intel mobo means nothing - same chipset same drivers
Yep you will be very lucky if it goes well.
These issues are KNOWN, admitted bugs in the ship bios/ship RSTe (CD)
If you dont believe me, just go to station-drivers.com and download the release notes for the 3.0.0.3020 (the one after 3.0.0.2003) One fix after another describing EXACTLY was was posted on the forums as probs.
Whats wrong with doing it the USB way?
But you could try your luck, be my guest
Just received replacement. I'm running it now. The analog out worked out-of-the-box and I've not reinstalled Windows--I just booted it, played a test, and bam, static-free sound. The problem was, without question, the MB. I hope nothing else is wrong with this one
Have a good one.
No kidding, I hate dealing with shit like that. Part of the cost of building your own I guess
I tested the front panel audio as well and it worked fine, as does coaxial output. No more plug/unplug notifications either, despite turning them back on. Everything obvious seems to work.
The only thing that happened was a BSOD in the video driver. I just reinstalled the drivers, and reseated both cards, so I'm hoping that will take care of it. If not, then <sigh>.
I tested the front panel audio as well and it worked fine, as does coaxial output. No more plug/unplug notifications either, despite turning them back on. Everything obvious seems to work.
The only thing that happened was a BSOD in the video driver. I just reinstalled the drivers, and reseated both cards, so I'm hoping that will take care of it. If not, then <sigh>.
fwiw the new ASUS mobo will have a "moat" for the RT audio
110 Db s/n. None of the other traces on mobo will go near ir.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PxuNO9lBIo&feature=related
I think they were having troubles with feature loaded boards like guys with 3 7970's and just took the next step
Its too late now, but you never answered if you had the MSU installed and showing in Programs (Marvel Storage Utility for their HDD SSD controller) When installed it makes a "crackling sound". I couldnt believe it when I saw it on a forum and installed it and sure enough it made the RT a horrible mess. Not the Marvel driver - the Marvel Win 7 controller sw
110 Db s/n. None of the other traces on mobo will go near ir.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PxuNO9lBIo&feature=related
I think they were having troubles with feature loaded boards like guys with 3 7970's and just took the next step
Its too late now, but you never answered if you had the MSU installed and showing in Programs (Marvel Storage Utility for their HDD SSD controller) When installed it makes a "crackling sound". I couldnt believe it when I saw it on a forum and installed it and sure enough it made the RT a horrible mess. Not the Marvel driver - the Marvel Win 7 controller sw