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Aria WCing help

L

lord_tris

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jan 6, 2005
Messages
1,789
Just got my new Aria case about 3 days ago, and so far mods I am thinking of are:
-cutting the front where all the jacks are and meshing it with some matching alumium mesh
-watercooling
-cutting the inner cage in the front for more airflow
-and figure out something to clean up the wires

So my ?'s are
-What size tubeing can i use ? 3/8 has been chooseing
-Will I be able to use more then a single 80mm rad? looks like no
-Is there enough room for all parts WITH OUT any external case mods
-Will I be able to do the cpu,gpu,chipset
-What kinda pump? DDC
-what kinda fan can I use for optmal performance and is quite as well
-What Resivior can i use in this system i have a sigle 3.5bay open?
 
Knowing generally the size of the Aria but not having the layout committed to memory, I'd personally limit watercooling to the cpu/gpu only and go active air on the NB to save clutter. 3/8" id tubing, BI micro, and a Laing DDC- its small and powerful for its size. Dimensions of it here: http://www.oberread.com/laing_ddc_dim.htm
 
Laing DDC is definitely a winner for SFF's. If you really wanted to 1/2" tubing is quite doable, if you can do it in a shuttle you can do it in the larger aria. 3/8" ID is much more practical however. An 80mm radiator is all that will fit easily, if you are up to a little bit of modding you could put a 120mm externally on the back of the box. Silverprop SL Fusion is great low profile gpu block, it has 1/2" barbs only, but you can stretch 3/8" tubing over it.
 
so far i see that the DDC pump is my best bet
and i am looking at the TDX block from DD for the cpu
and i am going with the 3/8 tygon tubeing
now i need a resiviour that will fit in the case i have an open 3.5 bay on the right side
 
The swiftech 6000 might be a better choice for the waterblock than the TDX, the swiftech block will perform better at the flowrates the DDC will provide.
 
If you want a reservoir, you're gonna be looking at making a very tiny one yourself. It would be much more practical to use a T-line to take up much less room.
It may be possible to fit a BIM2 or just a 2nd BIM on one of the side panels, possibly with a slim 80mm fan to take up less space.
I second the 6000, it cools better than the TDX for less $ anyway.
You could use 1/2" tubing, or the much better option of 7/16"id-5/8"od tubing that can slip over 1/2" barbs, giving less restriction than 3/8" with little to no greater bulk.
For some more ideas, look here and here. Otherwise, good luck and don't be afraid to mod :)
 
Well, you ARE the one with the case you know. You can get out a ruler and measure much better than we can guess. Find the dimensions of the BIM series rads and find out where you think the best place to fit them would be. For reference off the top of my head I know that the BIP is about 5in x 5.5in x 1in if you wanted to see if that would fit somewhere. Measuring myself is exactly what I am doing right now to try and figure out the best solution for my P180 (which btw looks to be using 2 single 120mm rads, adding the second one when I add the GPU to the loop).
 
well what i have done is takeing all the front I/O panel and plan on putting mesh there so i have opened the whole front of the case for WCing eqp. and was looking at it closer today and it looks like i should have no problem with putting a swiftech rad in there with that ddc pump i have not takeing exact measuments yet. i will post some pics sometime and maybe a worklog :) in the case modding section.:)
 
Don’t overlook how big the backside of that case is. You can easily hang a 120mm fan and radiator on the back with no problems at all.

If you are using only one hard drive then you have a ton of space on each side of the drive bracket (the space for two additional drives) as well to mount a pump on one side and a thin wide reservoir on the other.

Don’t forget all the space on the (facing) left side of the case as well, assuming your RAM slots are on the other side.

Just a few thoughts.
 
well i am useing 2 drives atm
and i am trying to keep the componets inside the case so that way when i transport it i dont have to worry about ripping/breaking anything off :)
and i am not looking to overclock at lot with this system just lower the temps

so i think that i will use these parts so far

-a single black ice 80mm rad
-swiftech 6000 series cpu
-t-pipe res
-ddc pump
-3/8 tygon tube

undecied parts
fan
fan controler
aditives
anything else i am missing?
 
well i am useing 2 drives atm
and i am trying to keep the componets inside the case so that way when i transport it i dont have to worry about ripping/breaking anything off :)
and i am not looking to overclock at lot with this system just lower the temps

so i think that i will use these parts so far

-a single black ice 80mm rad
-swiftech 6000 series cpu
-t-pipe res
-ddc pump
-3/8 tygon tube

undecied parts
fan
fan controler
aditives
anything else i am missing?
 
Don’t forget another alternative, pull your PSU apart (it’s pretty easy) and add a higher flow 120mm fan where the original is. I would cut the stock grill holes away from the back of the Aria case for more flow. Then add your 120mm Radiator right to the back of the case.

On the front and sides of the PSU drill some vent/flow holes to allow air (a lot of air) to pass through the PSU housing.
 
yeah planed on doing somehting with the power supply and fan but i am trying to keep the watercooling parts inside so i dont break them :) and i did some meauserments last night and a BIM will fit nicely in the front with all the I/O ports removed and the harddives put on the side of the drive cage :)

oh and what do you guys think of this fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811999341
 
Looks like that fan will move some air for sure. We will need picts when you are done of course ;)
 
I wanted to get some wc into my aria just to shut the damn thing up. I thought making the transistion to sff would be perfect until I encountered all the noise and heat. I went with a thermaltake bigwater kit instead of a custom rig because I'm not looking into overclocking(no adjustable vcore, and a p4 that overclocks at 1.85v lol). It was also way under $200 shipped and covered the cpu and gpu. I was merely looking to make this rig silent and I have to say it worked. All I hear now is the clicking of the 74g raptor which I don't mind and kinda like. :) There is only 1 fan in the entire case which is mounted behidn the radiator. I took the fan out of the power supply to route the air through the radiator to the fan and out the back. My temps aren't the best but for sucking warm air out of the case and the psu they are great. It may look tacky to have a radiator stuck to the back of the case and I was never a fan of it but it sure beats the racket that a bunch of small fans make.

Oh and a few ports were blocked like the printer port, 2 usb ports but I don't care. I still have 2 usb ports and I can always use the usb headers on the motherboard. Hope this might give you a few ideas.

Anyways. Pics.

P1010043.jpg
 
looks nice man good work on yours
i will have to post some pics when my dremel and camara gets here
damn army life
 
thanks. My highest temp on my 3.0c is 54 with the fan turned all the way down. At that level it can't be heard. Not the best temp but considering that I have my r9800 pro in the loop that runs at 430/375 and having total silence is pretty damn good. Good luck. :)
 
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