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Apogee not performing well

T

Trendy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Messages
199
I bought a Swiftech kit (cpu only), it came with an Apogee, but it's performing much worse than my air cooling was.

Is this normal?
 
We need MUCH more details. The regular apogee (non-GT) is one of the best blocks out their for C2Ds. The GT is fine too, but has a little more resistance to the flow of water.

Could be many things impacting your setup.

Improper block seating
Improper paste application
Tubing size/kinks
Do you have a fan on your radiator (believe it or not, many people think that they don't need fans on their rads, I forgot to turn my fans on my PA120.3 when I was leak testing my loop for 36 hours ( it was sitting flat on the floor) and it was definately warm when I touched it after 24 or so hours (promplty lifted it up on two bricks and turned on one of the fans).
Did you bleed the system thoroughly? Did you rock the case a fair ammount to make sure no air bubbles in block or radiator?

Take a pic, send us more specs, whatever you can do that you think might help.
 
Sorry, I should have said more. I'm actually using a GT (company sent me the kit without the waterblock, gave me a GT instead). I didn't apply thermal paste, there was a good amount left on the CPU when I took off my fan (I think this may be a problem). I bleed the loop for 2 hours, I still hear small noises coming from my pump though, does that mean air?

I haven't rocked my case as all, for one reason, the clip holding my video card down snapped off and i'm worried I'll shake it loose.

Anywho, the screws don't seem to be all that tight on the waterblock, I'm thinking it's not held down firm enough.
 
Trendy said:
I haven't rocked my case as all, for one reason, the clip holding my video card down snapped off and i'm worried I'll shake it loose.

Anywho, the screws don't seem to be all that tight on the waterblock, I'm thinking it's not held down firm enough.
Click to expand...

My clip holding it down broke too, no worries, it really shouldnt shake loose, and if it does, just put the card right back in.

Try to move/shake the waterblock a little bit... if you see it move at all than you probably need to tighten it more. The whole thing of water cooling is contact. The less you have, the higher your temps. I would take off the waterblock, replace the paste with AS5, and remount it correctly (tight, firm).

WHEN YOU TAKE OFF THE WB, CHECK TO SEE THE THERMAL PASTE LEFT ON THE BLOCK. This will tell you how well the contact was pretty accurately.
 
It's a good rule of thumb to always apply a fresh bit of thermal paste with each application. I'll second that tightening down the water block is critical. It takes me a while to fine tune my apogee, a quarter turn on one side will show a few degrees difference instantly in the bios screen (I have the 2 screw 939 mounting). Also getting all the air out of the rad can be a pain, I too had that problem for a while, took quite a good angle and shaking for that last burst of bubbles to come out of the rad. Good luck.
 
One, take off the block, clean the CPU and the block with a coffee filter and either isopropyl alcohol or arctic cleanser. Then re-apply arctic silver ceramic

Two, put it back together, and run ONLY THE PUMP AND FANS (no CD drives, mobo, HD's, etC), for 24 hours. Whenever you hear the loop not making any noise, rock it back and forth a few times. Trust me, I had my loop running for 36 hours straight, and there was still air trapped in a few places. and I use a RESOVOIR! When re-tightening the cpu block, it should be snug, not allowing much rocking in any direction, yet it should not be warping your mainboard at all.
 
As was said earlier, you cannot reuse thermal paste. You need to clean it off and reapply, that is your problem.
 
I applied thermal paste last night right after i posted this. It was part of my problem. Temps have been 3-4 degrees lower since I did that. I messed up on that part, I didn't think about it at the time, but after i got my computer running I was like "woops".

Anywho, the temps are still higher than my aircooling was. I'm not sure why, I shook the case like you suggested, nothing.

I was told to lay the case on it's side for a while by someone on OCN, but that still didn't help.

Maybe it's just my rad, I have a new dual 120mm rad on the way. . .we'll see how that one does.
 
How was the contact on the waterblock when u took it off? (did the thermal paste look like a square or just little bloches here and there?)

eh, if you are still getting worse than air temps than I would imagine its the contact that is making them so bad. Are you 100% sure that your block is seated correctly and tight? Is there anything in the way (capacitor for example) getting in the way of tightening the block down all the way? I just had some experience with this myself lol.
 
SANY0164.jpg


Without the springs and cap-bolts

I have no idea what happened to my camera, but right now I just used the hardware supplied to screw it down, aka, the capped bolts and the springs.

Should I replace the capped bolts with un-capped bolts? would that be a tighter hold?
 
I was referring a bit more to the whole loop, but you shouldn't need un-capped bolts, if you used the correct mounting kit for 775. I got a GT and used it on my mobo with the correct mounting kit, and my temps were 23 idle 29 load on a stock 6600. Maybe you are using the incorrect mounting kit. However, you can try getting some uncapped bolts and using them, but do not over tighten.
 
There have been substantial problems with the capped bolts.

Lots of users have been reporting a problem.

Hey Jomans, what's your room temperature?
 
Jomanscool2 said:
I was referring a bit more to the whole loop, but you shouldn't need un-capped bolts, if you used the correct mounting kit for 775. I got a GT and used it on my mobo with the correct mounting kit, and my temps were 23 idle 29 load on a stock 6600. Maybe you are using the incorrect mounting kit. However, you can try getting some uncapped bolts and using them, but do not over tighten.
Click to expand...

Yeah, 23 is close like 3 degrees below ambient for me. . . lol

Waterchill anyone?

The kit came with a single 120mm Rad, I have fans on it, but I think this might be my problem. I know that because the temps start off at idle at 33-34 and slowly rise to 36-37 after about 20 minutes, then if I open up a game, play it for a while, and get out of the game, the temps won't go below 40 again until I turn off the computer.

This means the water in the loop isn't getting cooled, correct?
 
Could very well be the radiator. Try picking up a PA120.1 or a MC220. Or try a higher CFM fan.

Btw, my ambient is ~68F, or 20C. But I understand that my temps could be as high as 28C, damn those inaccurate temperature sensors.
 
Jomanscool2 said:
Could very well be the radiator. Try picking up a PA120.1 or a MC220. Or try a higher CFM fan.

Btw, my ambient is ~68F, or 20C. But I understand that my temps could be as high as 28C, damn those inaccurate temperature sensors.
Click to expand...

9c load to ambient delta. Very nice. I can't wait to get my PA120.2 soon :)
 
Jomanscool2 said:
Could very well be the radiator. Try picking up a PA120.1 or a MC220. Or try a higher CFM fan.

Btw, my ambient is ~68F, or 20C. But I understand that my temps could be as high as 28C, damn those inaccurate temperature sensors.
Click to expand...

I already have a bigger rad and 2x120mm 108CFM Sunons on the way. . . just waiting for Performance-pcs.com to ship the suckers. . . . grrrr.
 
Arcygenical said:
9c load to ambient delta. Very nice. I can't wait to get my PA120.2 soon :)
Click to expand...

It was on a PA120.3 with an 8800GTX in the loop. Speedfan said 3c difference between ambient, but who knows hoow accurate that thing is....

Getting my 8800GTX back tomororow =)
 
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