Anyone Get The Coolermaster Stacker Yet???

dropper said:
Kyle said on the main page that he just got one for his own PC.

I got the Cross Flow Fan fan on Friday and saw a couple of degree drop everywhere in the case (I guess you could say "across the board":)).
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WHERE DID YOU BUY IT AND HOW MUCH???????

i seriously desperately most likely need one of those right now for a mod
 
Stang Man said:
1 thing besides the bad-tapped motherboard mount, is that the damn psu won't go in without taking off the fan guard.
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I don't get how that is much of a quibble? I guess it might be a touch easier to run it up the inside, but threading the power cords through didn't seem like that big of a deal.

Biggest problem I had, was not realizing the PSU fan mount plate lip went under the inside of the top part, not outside. Thought they had punched it backwards. Big DUH moment followed a minute later.

Keith
 
dropper said:
I don't get how that is much of a quibble? I guess it might be a touch easier to run it up the inside, but threading the power cords through didn't seem like that big of a deal.

Biggest problem I had, was not realizing the PSU fan mount plate lip went under the inside of the top part, not outside. Thought they had punched it backwards. Big DUH moment followed a minute later.

Keith
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dude, dont worry about it, there's nothing wrong. i just didn't figure it out at the time. lol
 
I'm working on a duct for my v1000 I recently recieved for the coolermaster stacker's crossflow fan. Its sort of a trapezoid cylinder that branches out to hold the crossflow fan angled towards the motherboard in all its inverted goodness. Of course, wrestling the disk drives will require me to remove the crossflow fan, but its for the -H- that I'll never get.

tell me - would the crossflow fan be as usefull in a case such as the v1000? Its cooling right now is sort of magical to me.. I cant see how it cools better than my 12+ fan mid tower
 
Ubermouser said:
I'm working on a duct for my v1000 I recently recieved for the coolermaster stacker's crossflow fan. Its sort of a trapezoid cylinder that branches out to hold the crossflow fan angled towards the motherboard in all its inverted goodness. Of course, wrestling the disk drives will require me to remove the crossflow fan, but its for the -H- that I'll never get.

tell me - would the crossflow fan be as usefull in a case such as the v1000? Its cooling right now is sort of magical to me.. I cant see how it cools better than my 12+ fan mid tower
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What it is, is distributed air flow across the entire board. As for the CFM's, here is the chart from their site:
Code: 
Speed (4speeds)  OFF 0 r.p.m 
 LOW 1400 r.p.m ( 6.5 V ) 
 MIDDLE 1800 r.p.m ( 8.5 V ) 
 HIGH 2500 r.p.m ( 12 V ) 
Noise Level  0 dB (OFF) 
 22 dB (LOW) 
 30 dB (MIDDLE) 
 38 dB (HIGH) 
Airflow  0 CFM - 0 r.p.m 
 25 CFM - 1400 r.p.m 
 32 CFM - 1800 r.p.m 
 46 CFM - 2500 r.p.m
Keith
 
I am seriously considering this bad boy for a new case.

How do you properly mount an 80mm fan to the side? I could never figure it out, unless you bend back the mounts that are going to be holding the fan. :confused:
 
ajm786 said:
How do you properly mount an 80mm fan to the side? I could never figure it out, unless you bend back the mounts that are going to be holding the fan. :confused:
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HUH? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
How do you properly mount an 80mm fan to the side? I could never figure it out, unless you bend back the mounts that are going to be holding the fan.
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You can unscrew the mesh part, and then it's a breeze...
 
ajm786 said:
I am seriously considering this bad boy for a new case.

How do you properly mount an 80mm fan to the side? I could never figure it out, unless you bend back the mounts that are going to be holding the fan. :confused:
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The big round screen on the side comes off. It has about six or eight TORX screws holding it in. Once you've got it off, you can mount the fan from the back of the brackets.
 
anr11 said:
The big round screen on the side comes off. It has about six or eight TORX screws holding it in. Once you've got it off, you can mount the fan from the back of the brackets.
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they're 2.5mm Hex bolts
 
My case has the same standoff problem and waiting for resoution. If not fast enough, will use a thread cutter or suggested plastic stand off if I can find the right height (ie, the ones I have found so far ar too short). Relative to the floppy mount, check on the coolermaster forum and notify Bryant and he will send you one free. You can also do what I originally did and mount it using a hard drive 5" to 3 1/2" bay adapter. Screwing the adapter to the last two screw holes on the floppy case and sliding the adapter all the way back on the adapter slider holes (ie after screwing on the stacker drive lock strips), it will slide right in with the proper face plate alignment.

Also found a plastic putty knife as the best tool for removing the front bay bezels.
sliding it from the rear to the locking tab on one side of the bezel allows the bezel to drop right out. I cut the 1 1/2 " blade off about 1/2" and angled it back so I had a triangle point to hook under the drive cage bezel attachments. After removing the bezel under the drive cage it was a snap to move bottom up and take the other three bezels off to move the drive cage.

That 120mm drive cage fan is staying on my cage. As stated, you could take it off and mount an 80mm and use the top for the floppy, but the 120mm works better than an 80mm. It appears the cage is also better positioned with the cage bottom two bezels up from the bottom. Helps air flow below the crossflow fan area.
 
I really want this case...so much room, well designed, good cooling, btx compatibility...argh!!!

If only I had something other than a beautiful Lian-Li.

Has anyone with the stacker compared temps to their system on another case? I'm curious to know just how much all that ventilation and the crossflow fan can do.
 
My system is not up and running yet so I can't give you a real world answer on temps, but this case was designed to cool the new hotter components. Everything is geared toward the leading edge sytems now and into the future. Although I purchased the OCZ Power stream 520W ps, I can see a need for the 2nd one with all the fans., case lighting and the power draw of the new vid cards/CPU's (possibly two with PCIE). This thing can kick some air with the cross flow, two 120mm, two additional 80mm's, and the included blow hole 80mm.
 
qbert95 said:
Just curious if anyone has attempted to install a 3 fan rad in one yet.
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It should have room, but it wouldn't have any room for HD's at the at point. 3x120mm's would take up 9 of the 11 slots. All drives mount in the front. If you are talking about 3x120's, that would be pretty impressive, but I would question deminishing returns. Any pictures?

Keith
 
MaxGhz said:
Relative to the floppy mount, check on the coolermaster forum and notify Bryant and he will send you one free.
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Do you have a link to this Cooler Master forum?

Thanks,
Keith
 
Wow.. I'm uh.. I dont know what to say. I wonder if anyone will try putting a cross fan into a Lian Li case and post the results.

I wonder how loud the case is with all of the fans.
 
Dropper, keep us informed of what goes on. I love this case, but am ready to put it all together so I need a resolution to the stand off. I have asked what they thought of tapping it with a 6/32" thread tap and waiting to hear back. Bought the tap and tried it on thick plastic I have and it seems to work, but I don't know how it will be to tap that nut?
 
MaxGhz said:
Dropper, keep us informed of what goes on. I love this case, but am ready to put it all together so I need a resolution to the stand off. I have asked what they thought of tapping it with a 6/32" thread tap and waiting to hear back. Bought the tap and tried it on thick plastic I have and it seems to work, but I don't know how it will be to tap that nut?
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The sticky part seems to be mostly in the middle of the thread, so I think the tap should work. Are you sure it's not metric, though? Will that tap work in the other holes?

Going back though my own messages, I see that it is an M3 screw that accepts a 6/32 screw. Might need to see if you can find an M3 tap. Source of M3 taps.



Keith
 
Appreciate the advice. The plastic was probably not the best way to test the 6/32" tap with the screw. I did drill through 1/4" plastic and then tapped it and the stand off does screw in tight. Just wondering what anyone thinks of using the weakest locktite compound on the standoffs?????

Well, suggest not trying the tap. Went in half way and then I backed tap out. Tried standoff and it went right in to the 1/2 way point. Then tried to tap the rest and as soon as the tap tip started out the other side it broke off leaving not enough to get anything on to back it out. I could drill it, but the tap is hard and there is not enough room to get a remover in there. So waiting for my replacement tray (no fun)! Went really slow too and the tap is a high quality one????
 
MaxGhz said:
Appreciate the advice. The plastic was probably not the best way to test the 6/32" tap with the screw. I did drill through 1/4" plastic and then tapped it and the stand off does screw in tight. Just wondering what anyone thinks of using the weakest locktite compound on the standoffs?????

Well, suggest not trying the tap. Went in half way and then I backed tap out. Tried standoff and it went right in to the 1/2 way point. Then tried to tap the rest and as soon as the tap tip started out the other side it broke off leaving not enough to get anything on to back it out. I could drill it, but the tap is hard and there is not enough room to get a remover in there. So waiting for my replacement tray (no fun)! Went really slow too and the tap is a high quality one????
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Yikes. That sounds like it wasn't very fun.
 
MaxGhz said:
Well, suggest not trying the tap. Went in half way and then I backed tap out. Tried standoff and it went right in to the 1/2 way point. Then tried to tap the rest and as soon as the tap tip started out the other side it broke off leaving not enough to get anything on to back it out. I could drill it, but the tap is hard and there is not enough room to get a remover in there. So waiting for my replacement tray (no fun)! Went really slow too and the tap is a high quality one????
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If the defective is drilled too small, it will snap off every tap you put in it. Before tapping, run a drill through the hole to make sure it's the right size. A hole for a 6-32 tap uses a #36 drill (0.1065"), for re-tapping I'd aim for a 60% thread and drop down to a #34 or #33 drill (0.1130"). Lube the tap to prevent it from binding up on the old threads, and a 3-flute or 4-flute tap will be stronger than the common 2-flutes.

They do make tap extracter for backing out broken taps, but it's a pain-in-the-butt experience. :(

Useful tap size chart: http://www.widell.com/drillsiz.html
 
Zamboni, Thanks should have got your advice before I tried it. I did use the drill that came with the tap, but could see where it would have been easiesr with a larger one. Good to know about flutes. Decided to install everything and hopefully that one stand off is in a non stressed area (that is what it looks like). When the new tray gets here I will swap it out again.
 
Figured I'd chime in and comment on the Stacker now that I got my hands on one. Yup! The front panels are a pain to get off. :) But once you get one off, it gets a little easier for the others. I don't recall any dents on the top like others commented on and the standoff threading in that one area wasn't an issue here. Threaded just fine. I ended up going with a 3.5" to 5.25" floppy bay adapter to free up the 4 in 3 module. Only other issue I had is I'm curious if the I/O shield hole is just slightly larger than it should be. I'll find out tomorrow when a replacement shield panel comes in (or so I hope).

All in all so far, pretty cool case and I look forward to slapping the mobo & crossflow fan in the puppy and giving it all a good smoke test.
 
I am considering buying this case and just want to know a few things before I buy.

1. Are those Metal Mesh covers on the top and rear fan removable. Because I can see a bit of noise being generated there. So i was thinking of removing them and putting a custom fan grill on.

2. Is that Custom Coolermaster fan worth getting. It seems to only reduce temps by 1 or 2 degrees, and it will cost me an extra $50 Australian, or around 30-40US.

3. Is it feasible to mount the PSU in the bottom bay, that way you could have the top bay for 2 80mm fans, for extra cooling or even leave it free so there is more circulating room. Also could you turn the PSU upside, in the bottom bay, so you don't have to draw air from the vent below. (in case you don't use the wheels).

4. Also how quiet does this case run, in general, is it fairly quiet?

Thanks for any help.

Stonewall
 
You will not believe how quiet it runs with 2 120mm's one 80mm and the 300mm on medium and yes the cross flow is worth it. It provides cooling for the whole mobo and components. Even at high it is relativley quiet. I am using one of the new OCZ power supplies that is also very quiet (black chrome with green led fans!). This case rocks. It keeps raided raptors cool. You can put a ps in the top and/or the bottom (it comes with wiring to hook two PS's together if you need more power. The case will still utilize the bottom vent with regualr feet. Can't say enough about how good this case is. Waiting for the side window and it will be perfect!!!! Fan screens are not removable and not a problem relative to noise. Of course you could cut them out but no need to do that!
 
I thought that the screens were removable, even the top one. They don't seem to be noise inducing and this is a pretty quiet case to begin with. I had a Liteon FS020 that had 3 120mm fans and the CM did a better job of cooling with only the 2 120's running slower and the 1 80mm.

Keith
 
You are right Dropper. At first they don't look like they are, but the whole assembly can be taken apart. By the way have you ever located the wiring diagram as to if all the white wires are negative. Still have not got my front panel leds exactly right and before I switch anything more, I would like to find out. I wrote Coolermaster, but have not heard back yet.
 
Ok.

Well, Im getting this case in about a week and a half as a birthday present. I plan on mounting(jamming) a 77 Bonneville heatercore in the front bays, and make a shoud for two 120mm Panaflos or Pabst fans(pulling). Not sure which yet, but I want the most CFM's with the least amount of noise.

The remainder of my existing cooling system is going in: Swiftech MCW 5002, Swifty MCP 600 pump, Maze 4 GPU block. I may or may not add my dual 80mm BIMII rad to the loop as well, before the GPU input. I don't know if it'll kill flow rate or not. Supposedly, the Bonneville core has excellent flow rate, and the MCP 600 has great flow.

Allegedly, my girlfriend is also going to get me the side window panel and crossflow fan. :D :D

Plan is to have 5 1/4 bays as follows: 1) Stacker control panel, 2)Vantec Nexus fan controller, 3) DVD burner 4) CD Burner. I'm' going to mount the 4 to 3 hard drive holder to the bottom of the case, behind the rad. I'm also going to line the case with Pax Mate, unless someone has a recommendatoin for a better type of noise dampening...... No floppy.... I'm going to make a new XP CD with the RAID drivers incorporated.

I'll be taking pictures to document the whole thing, so if anyone is thinking about moving their existing H20 setup to the stacker can learn from my mistakes!!

If anyone wants to see my existing setup, it's here:ATC-201 Watercooled

Third post down.....
 
please read my review at FastLaneHW.com, it specifies the exact tap size for proper rethreading.

it's a M3x0.5 tap.


also, to the person who questioned about the crossflow fan.. imo, it's not worth the money for it. i may reduce temps across the board a degree, but nothing worth adding more noise for and no performance increase. and furthurmore, the case grills, the top and rear vents do not vibrate at all with the stock fans, and flow pretty well

and i'll have pics of my new setup soon as DTEK gets the csp-750 pumps in stock.. and Dell delivers my Canon A95 :D

i'll be outfitting the case with a 2x120mm heatercore, DD TDX, Swiftech MCW50-T, Dual CSP-750's... the dual heatercore fits perfect on the bottom vent, and the guy in the forum selling it with the shrouds, it bolts right up to the case feet(not wheels) holes..

i love this case sooo much, heh.. :cool:
 
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