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Any final touches?

A

Aus10

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
1,870
Well i got the 800D and i need to put everything back to water. I used to have it all in a 600T but none of that parts would work the way i wanted it to work in the 800D so I figured ill just redo it and do it right. Bad part is that im at 594 right now. Birthday is coming up thats my goal lol... So Here is a list of the parts im thinking so far...

Performance Pcs
Swiftech MCP655 $66.95
Xspc RS360 Rad $46.95
Koolance CTR-SPD24 pump $34.99
Koolance CPU-370 $89.99
EK Multioption Res X2 150 Advanced $49.99
Yate loon fans (10) $39.50
BP Mod Top $49.95
BP mod kit $39.95
Shipping $17.58
Total $435.85

Frozen CPU
BP 1/2" 3/4" (12) Compression fittings $107.40
PrimoChill Tubing 15 feet $41.25
Shipping $10.36
Total $159.01

Do you think that is good? Any changes or anything you guys think i should make before I send the wish list around lol...

Also I am getting a Asus rampage iii extreme mobo with its waterblock and the asus oc station sometime too so i was wondering what do you guys think my loop order should be?
 
The RS360 has a way too low FPI for my liking, I would get a higher FPI radiator like the Swiftech MCR series or Black Ice GTS series.

15 feet is a bit excessive I think, you should be fine with about 10 feet.

Have you tried looking at Koolertek and seeing if they have what you want/need? They have some really good prices on pumps, tubing, and fans.
 
There a particular reason why u are buying a swiftech 655 pump and a koolance one as well? The 655 should be more than enough for a cpu only loop.
 
Sorry i am adding three 580s to it later The koolance is the the 24v controller. So I can run the 655 at 24vs instead of 12v.

Ok I will look into a diffrent rad
 
Yeah, with 3 580's you definitely want a high FPI radiator. The RS radiator is just too thin and has too low of a FPI to be effective.
 
I will only being running my 480 on it right now but when i get the other 3 580s i will add another 360 and a 240 in the drive bay down area hope thats enough....

Might be slow off to sand and paint Victors 800D
 
I wonder how many rads i would need for three 580s and my cpu?
 
You think I could be ok with a 240 in that drive bay area?

Is my pump going to be stronge enough for everything?
 
I think you'll be fine with a 360 and a 240. Entirely depends on what you're trying to achieve.
 
I see I see i just want low temps with the medium fans... Also here is a pic of the case...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Didnt turn out to hot...
 
With medium speed fans, an additional 240 would probably be enough.

I would go with the GTS series rather than the Black Ice Pro, the GTS are supposed to be an improvement on the Pro III series, and I can't find any specs on the Pro series. The only problem is that the GTS series have fairly high water loop restriction besides the X-flow variants.
 
Oh ok well then that sounds good ill look around and try to find one
 
Not as fast as his big brother frank. :( good thing i start my new job soon and i can order new parts for him. Birthday is really soon though. Im working toward a building a frank lol only diffrence is about several thousand dollars and he is blue :) lol
 
I had a idea on the bottom right hand side mounting 2 240 mm rads on both sides and cutting the panel and glass and putting a honeycomb mesh behind it? Wat do you guys think?
 
Tsumi said:
With medium speed fans, an additional 240 would probably be enough.

I would go with the GTS series rather than the Black Ice Pro, the GTS are supposed to be an improvement on the Pro III series, and I can't find any specs on the Pro series. The only problem is that the GTS series have fairly high water loop restriction besides the X-flow variants.
Click to expand...

Will you send a link to the rad you think i should get from PPCS?

I cant find it..
 
I would go for the GTS for push/pull setups since it is really thin and the high fpi helps it perform better than a lower fpi radiator in push/pull.
 
Ok i will go with that rad then mid august is my birthday so ill port pictures once i build it all.
 
I know this isnt a build log but i figured id post some of the new parts the rest are in the mail will post them when i get them.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
Don't bother with GT or GTS series. Go for a BI-SR1. It works great with my Scythe S-Flex G fans and providers better cooling. Better options would be like a GTX, but that needs higher speed fans to work well.
 
Sufu said:
Don't bother with GT or GTS series. Go for a BI-SR1. It works great with my Scythe S-Flex G fans and providers better cooling. Better options would be like a GTX, but that needs higher speed fans to work well.
Click to expand...

Proof?

The review I've seen of the GTS have it performing very similarly to the GTX, and beating out most other radiators in the high fan speed range (above 1500 RPM for pull only, and above 1000-1200 RPM for push/pull). If there is one thing that can be said against it, that is the fact that it is highly restrictive compared to other radiators.
 
Tsumi said:
Proof?

The review I've seen of the GTS have it performing very similarly to the GTX, and beating out most other radiators in the high fan speed range (above 1500 RPM for pull only, and above 1000-1200 RPM for push/pull). If there is one thing that can be said against it, that is the fact that it is highly restrictive compared to other radiators.
Click to expand...

See hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1476023

I've owned both a 360 GTS and now a 360 sr1. Sr1 is an improvement over the GTS series, higher fpi and thicker. Afaik it should also not be as restrictive, but I'm not 100% sure.

My core i7 hits 74c @ 4.2 ghz, 1.34 vcore, +300 vtt, with HK 3.0 waterblock, 3x120mm Scythe G-flex fans running linx. I also have chipset and mosfet blocks.

Anyway, if you are buying a new rad, go for sr1 over a gts. I don't claim its the best rad out there, but certainly an improvement over GTS series.
 
SR1 series isn't an upgrade or replacement over the GTS series; they fill two completely different needs. SR1 rads have 9 FPI -> optimized for low RPM fans. GTS series have 30 FPI -> optimized for med/high RPM fans.
 
Cruiza said:
SR1 series isn't an upgrade or replacement over the GTS series; they fill two completely different needs. SR1 rads have 9 FPI -> optimized for low RPM fans. GTS series have 30 FPI -> optimized for med/high RPM fans.
Click to expand...

Hrm, what is considered med rpm? I run @ 1700rpm when CPU is on load
 
Sufu said:
See hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1476023

I've owned both a 360 GTS and now a 360 sr1. Sr1 is an improvement over the GTS series, higher fpi and thicker. Afaik it should also not be as restrictive, but I'm not 100% sure.

My core i7 hits 74c @ 4.2 ghz, 1.34 vcore, +300 vtt, with HK 3.0 waterblock, 3x120mm Scythe G-flex fans running linx. I also have chipset and mosfet blocks.

Anyway, if you are buying a new rad, go for sr1 over a gts. I don't claim its the best rad out there, but certainly an improvement over GTS series.
Click to expand...

SR1 is best compared to the XSPC RX or RS radiators, and the MCR radiators from Swiftech. It's a low FPI radiator best suited for low RPM fans (in the range of 1200 RPM or less) as was stated above.

This is a review which sold my decision on using a GTS radiator. The best comparison is between the TFC Monsta (low fpi, thick) and the GTS (high fpi, thin), both using the 3x140 format. In push/pull, the GTS beats out the TFC Monsta at 1000 RPM. Comparing with this review, you see the GTX edging out the SR1 at about 1300 RPM. Seeing as how the GTS performs similarly to the GTX, albeit somewhat worse, you can logically conclude that the GTS would outperform the SR1 somewhere in the 1500-1700 RPM range. There is a caveat to this, and that is making sure you have a high enough flow rate, due to the high restrictiveness of the GTS (even more restrictive than the GTX). Perhaps what you saw was a result of decreased restrictiveness in your loop enabling higher flow of water, so that you get better temps.

Edit: That link didn't compare the SR1 to any of the radiators we were talking about. How can you offer that up as proof?
 
I'd return that Koolance pump controller if I were you. There's absolutely no benefit to running a normal Laing D5 at 24V. The pumps are RPM limited. You're just adding slightly more heat dump to your loop.

You'd have to buy a D5 strong in order to take advantage of 24V.
 
Oh wow this is all new.... EarthwormJim will you explain your the Rpms are limited? So I wouldnt get any benifit at all having it run at 24v?

Cruiza will you post your link to the reviews you sent me showing the difrence between 12 and 24? He is the one that showed it to me.

Anyhow I just ordered all this stuff last night got shipped out today...

Danger Den Fillport - Blue
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall - UV Blue
Bitspower G1/4 Thread 90-Degree Triple Rotary 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MB90R3CPF-CC5)
Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBCPF-CC5)
Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)
M4 x 30mm Radiator Mount Hex Socket Cap Screws - Black - 4 Pack (Danger Den / Hardware Labs)
Bitspower Liquid Cooling Fill Syringe - 70 mL (BP-WTT-70ML)
PrimoChill Dye Bomb - Invisible Blue 2

This liquid coolign just got stupidly expensive... went from 500-600 to 800 when im finished first order was 350 shipped that one was 280 and the last one is about 220... altho i wanted great parts to go to future systems just came with a nice price tag ig which sucks lucky for me it was my birthday waiting till i order the 1200 psu to rebuild Victor. I hate waiting it sucks!!!

First order

1 x Koolance PMP-450S Strong High-flow Pump (PMP-450S) = $76.99
1 x Koolance CTR-SPD24 Pump & Fan Speed Controller (CTR-SPD24) = $34.99
1 x Black Ice® GT Stealth 360 Highest Performance Radiator (GTS360) = $67.95
Radiator Color Coolmetal Blue
Fitting Size 1/2" OD
1 x *** NEW *** EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced (EK-RES-X2-150-ADV) = $49.95
Fitting Size 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube
1 x *** HOT *** Koolance CPU-370 (CPU) [no nozzles] (CPU-370) = $89.99
Nozzles No Nozzles
 
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EarthwormJim said:
I'd return that Koolance pump controller if I were you. There's absolutely no benefit to running a normal Laing D5 at 24V. The pumps are RPM limited. You're just adding slightly more heat dump to your loop.

You'd have to buy a D5 strong in order to take advantage of 24V.
Click to expand...

Oh yes i did buy the S version sorry lol
 
Personally I wouldn't touch any EK products or dye, but otherwise it looks pretty sweet. Should be a fun build!
 
Aus10 said:
What do you mean?
Click to expand...

They've had some poor quality control as of late, but the worse part has been their responses to complaints. They completely blamed the problems on the user when it was clearly their fault.
 
Aus10 said:
Oh yes i did buy the S version sorry lol
Click to expand...


Keep the controller then. That's the only way to control the speed of the strong version.

Depending on how you plan on mounting the pump, it might be kind of loud at 24V. You might want to consider suspending it from the tubing to minimize vibrations with your case.


Stay away from EK though, at the very least do not use any of their nickel plated parts. They use way too thin of nickle coating, use horrible preparation techniques on their copper, there are tons of micro-cracks and surface defects in the nickel plating, and all their blocks have nasty mill marks left from hasty manufacturing. All of this leads to early (sometimes under a week) failure of the nickel plaiting.

I don't like their lack of ethics either, attacking other companies and users for their acrylic and nickel issues, but it's up to you whether or not you care about that aspect. I do like their reservoir designs, but I have a hard time trusting my computer components to that company now.
 
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