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Antec 1000w TruePower issues

Z

Zaner

n00b
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Messages
51
Hello guys, let me state my case quickly for you

I have an antec 1000w modular which was purchased over a year ago, I was deployed literally right at the time I bought it and was never able to install it! now that i'm home I've tried connecting it to my motherboard;
Gigabyte P55-USB3

What happens > The computer powers on as it normally would, this lasts about 3-4 seconds, it then shuts itself down for about 2 seconds, then it powers itself up again, rinse repeat, this is a perpetual cycle if I were to allow it so

I then did the paperclip test and it ran fine, I connected a DVD drive and it seemed to work perfecly, unfortunately it's no longer covered by warranty since I was last home and I don't have a spare computer or parts I can test it on!

Is there anyway my motherboard and this PSU are not compatible?

Edit : I've tried just running the motherboard, and trying all the components with it, same result for all

Any ideas?
 
Did you try clearing the CMOS? Usually, power cycles like that indicate a defective motherboard or unstable overclock, not a defective power supply. It can also mean a defective CPU, although the odds of that are much lower.

Do you have a known working power supply you can test it with?
 
Guh stupid me I should have mentioned that, the current rig is working perfectly
P55-USB3
i5 750 @ stock
6970
4GB ram
Corsair 620 PSU

Everything works 100%, just switching over to the new PSU and this happens.. which is where i'm confused and was wondering if there was some sort of compatibility issue, as the PC works as is - and the PSU works on the paperclip test
 
Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can use that to check the voltages and make sure they're all within spec. You can also try wiggling the connectors to make sure they're seated properly.
 
It's an Enhance built unit with Taiwanese Teapo caps, which are known to crap out early when not ventilated well.

I had an Enhance built Real Power Pro with Teapo's blow up twice.

Check out the caps, though, you might not notice any bulging because Teapo's are suckers. They go bad without showing any signs.

Try to listen to the PSU closely once you turn it on and see whether you hear a buzzing sound or not. The buzz is a giveaway of the caps going bad.

If you can, get a pack of Japanese Nippon Chemi-Con's from Newark.com and recap it. They'll be shipped from South Carolina unlike the name of the site might suggest.
 
johnnydoe said:
It's an Enhance built unit with Taiwanese Teapo caps, which are known to crap out early when not ventilated well.

I had an Enhance built Real Power Pro with Teapo's blow up twice.

Check out the caps, though, you might not notice any bulging because Teapo's are suckers. They go bad without showing any signs.

Try to listen to the PSU closely once you turn it on and see whether you hear a buzzing sound or not. The buzz is a giveaway of the caps going bad.

If you can, get a pack of Japanese Nippon Chemi-Con's from Newark.com and recap it. They'll be shipped from South Carolina unlike the name of the site might suggest.
Click to expand...

I really doubt the caps went bad since it's never been used. I'd be more willing to bet that the voltage regulation isn't as high as his corsair, and it's making his OC unstable.
 
Regulation is one of the strongest points of the TPQ. That PSU performs like a dream:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=58

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=58

Voltages hitting the numbers right on the head and 20/10 mV of ripple at 850W...

that HX620 is nowhere as good of a PSU as the TPQ-850. It's an older SeaSonic S12-620 design that's group regulated, not independant like the TPQ. It sucks when it comes to crossloading and it's ripple suppression or transient response isn't also anywhere as good as the TPQ's. And the TPQ design is a 850-1000W design. The HX-620 design is a 350-650W design... there's not even a comparison neither in performance nor in build quality nor in anywhere else.
 
Alright update

I've got it to stay on but it almost seems it has to warm.up, it powers on and off about 4-5 times before it actually starts up, this is still a bit of a worry as the only reason I installed it was because of a large potential gpu and CPU upgrade / overclock
I haven't even had it running for more than 20 mins at this point or tested anything really taxing like a game, something is definitely shady though
 
Alright update

I've got it to stay on but it almost seems it has to warm.up, it powers on and off about 4-5 times before it actually starts up, this is still a bit of a worry as the only reason I installed it was because of a large potential gpu and CPU upgrade / overclock
I haven't even had it running for more than 20 mins at this point or tested anything really taxing like a game, something is definitely shady though
 
johnnydoe said:
Regulation is one of the strongest points of the TPQ. That PSU performs like a dream:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=58

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=58

Voltages hitting the numbers right on the head and 20/10 mV of ripple at 850W...

that HX620 is nowhere as good of a PSU as the TPQ-850. It's an older SeaSonic S12-620 design that's group regulated, not independant like the TPQ. It sucks when it comes to crossloading and it's ripple suppression or transient response isn't also anywhere as good as the TPQ's. And the TPQ design is a 850-1000W design. The HX-620 design is a 350-650W design... there's not even a comparison neither in performance nor in build quality nor in anywhere else.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying the regulation is bad.

I'm saying it may not be as high. Where the Corsair was giving him maybe 12.3v, this one is only giving him 11.9v or something. Both still well within spec, but that could account for his OC becoming unstable after changing the PSU.
 
This is the same power-supply I use. It's got me through a few builds now. It currently has an easy life powering my 2x GTX680s but before that I ran 2x 4870x2 and those 4 GPUs were power hungry. 4-digit readings on the kill-a-watt were very common. It never skipped a beat.
 
Jorona said:
I'm not saying the regulation is bad.

I'm saying it may not be as high. Where the Corsair was giving him maybe 12.3v, this one is only giving him 11.9v or something. Both still well within spec, but that could account for his OC becoming unstable after changing the PSU.
Click to expand...

It's the other way around in this case. This unit provides better voltages and cleaner power than the HX620. Significantly.
 
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