Another 1st timer needing advice

[joel13]

I've built a few PCs before, but this will be my first water-cooled. My objectives are pretty much just to water cool and keep everything internal. I'm not doing SLI, I don't need to OC much, and making it quiet would be great, but not the most important thing. I just got the new machine up and running on air (stock). Here are PC the specs:

Intel Core i7 920
EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
EVGA 01G-P3-1287-AR GeForce GTX 285 SSC Edition
Western Digital VelociRaptor WD3000HLFS 300GB 10000 RPM (2, in RAID 0)
LG Black LG Blu-ray/HD DVD-ROM & 16X DVD±R DVD Burner SATA Model GGC-H20L - OEM
OCZ XMP Ready Series 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory
SILVERSTONE DA1000 1000W ATX 12V 2.2 & EPS 12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Lian Li PC-V1200B Plus II Black Aluminum Mid-Tower Case

I plan to WC the CPU, NB/SB + mofsets, and the GPU. The only WC stuff I've bought so far has been the water blocks:

EK-Supreme Universal Premium High Performance Water Block (1366 Compatible) - Acetal
EK-FC285 GTX SLI Water Block for Nvidia 285GTX - Acetal
EK-FB KIT EVGA X58 Full Board Northbridge/Southbridge Water Block- EVGA X58 3SLI -Acetal (mofset block also)

It looks like the pump to get is the Swiftech MCP355 with the XSPC res/top. I can fit a triple rad at the top of the case but I' sure need more than that. I can put a single rad in front at the intake fan, or relocate the hard drives and put a double rad on the bottom of the case.

So, here are my noob questions:

1) Triple rad + double or single?
2) Can I get by with normal sized radiators like the Swiftec or should I go for the fatter ones like the XSPC or Feser? I know everyone has their fan of choice. I guess which fans to get will depend on which rads I get. The less noise the better, but getting the right radiators is more important.
3) Will 3/8"ID 1/2"OD be OK or will I need bigger tubing to get enough flow? I plan to use compression fittings if that matters at all.
4) Will the MCP355 be enough for this loop or will I need to split it up into two loops?

Like I said, the only WC stuff I've bought so far were the blocks. I'm not really committed to any other specs. Also, I'll crank down the OC to keep all cooling internal. I won't say money's no object, but I will spend the extra to do it right.

TIA,
Joel

 

[fromeo85]

Personally, I like 1/2" tubing, better flow. And I think a Thermochill 120.3 rad would be able to handle all that easily. Two loops wouldn't be a bad idea since you are going to WC the NB/SB as well, I don't myself since I just have my CPU and GPU with an MCR-320 rad and the MCP355 pump and everything works great and its quiet.

 

[soulesschild]

If you aren't going to OC the MCR320 would be fine IMO. For super cheap option, get 2x MCR320's and stack em.

 

[joel13]

@fromeo85
Aren't Thermochills the ones with the unconventional spacing? I've seen where some radgrills won't work with them. I've read 3/8" tubing is easier to work with. Is the 1/2" easy enough to bend and route through the case?

@soulesschild
I'd like to OC a little, I just meant I'd tune it down if it's the the only to keep it all inside the case.

Does anyone have an opinion about if MCP355 can push enough water through all those blocks and the rad(s)?

Also, are 90 and 45 degree adapters more restricting than bending the tubing and making the loop longer?

 

[Arcygenical]

Well, a GTX 285 and an i7 @ 4ghz shouldn't put out more than 500w or so (nor should they consume more than 500w, so your PSU is strong enough for a long time).

This means that you need, at the very least (with 1200rpm fans) 4.120 worth of radiator. This can be a triple at the top, and a single at the front, or any combination of your choice. If you value silence - bar none - I would step that up to 5.120 and run your yates at 7v.

Now, remember, since you're using a Lian Li V series, if you're topmounting the radiator, like I did, you can ONLY use a thin 1" radiator. This means you're limited to an MCR, a BIP or one of the thinner XSPC's.

The MCP355 is more than enough.

And don't worry about 90's, they're not bad at all.

Remember, that

 

[Deleted dick member 164665]

If you aren't going to OC the MCR320 would be fine IMO. For super cheap option, get 2x MCR320's and stack em.

You have to get 1 regular MCR320 and 1 stackable MCR320 to stack them. You can't stack with just 2 regular MCR320s.

 

[joel13]

@Arcygenical

Now, remember, since you're using a Lian Li V series, if you're topmounting the radiator, like I did, you can ONLY use a thin 1" radiator. This means you're limited to an MCR, a BIP or one of the thinner XSPC's.

Why?

 

[Arcygenical]

Because, if you mount the fans internally as well, the thing extends down over so much of the mobo, that you have to take the rad out EVERY time you want to take the board out as well.

You also can't use your top card slot with a thin radiator, which steps up to 2.5 whole lost PCI slots with a thicker radiator (you can use really thin cards, like a wifi card, in that third slot with a thick radiator).

You can't stack with just 2 regular MCR320s.

You CAN, but it requires a bit of handiwork.

 

[joel13]

It sounds like an MCR320 on top and MCR220 on the bottom should cool enough so I wouldn't need the thicker radiators and I can just move the hard drives to the 5-1/4" bays with one of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6140/cpa-219/Lian_Li_EX-23NB_Black_Drive_Bay_ExpansionCooling_Kit.html?tl=g43c241s611&id=NKddI5zM

I can just remove the stock hard drive racks to make room at the bottom of the case for the rad.

So I guess the plan is now a double rad on the bottom with the fans drawing air in from below the case, through the rad, a triple on top with the fans drawing air from inside the case, through the rad, and out the top. The stock intake and exhaust can just stay the way they are. With the hard drive kit, I'd have 3x120 + 1x80 in and 4x120 out so no crazy air pressure weirdness.

I'm gonna start a parts list and plan my loop then come back here for a quick double-check before ordering.

Thanks,
Joel

 

[joel13]

OK, I'm back with a shopping list (and more noobie questions).

First of all, if I don't mind the inconvenience of the thicker radiators, am I better off using them?

Because, if you mount the fans internally as well, the thing extends down over so much of the mobo, that you have to take the rad out EVERY time you want to take the board out as well.

You also can't use your top card slot with a thin radiator, which steps up to 2.5 whole lost PCI slots with a thicker radiator (you can use really thin cards, like a wifi card, in that third slot with a thick radiator).

Other than the video card, the only card I might add would be a sound card. I'm using the onboard audio right now and the monitor's built-in speakers. I don't have any specific plans to change that, but if I do, I'd rather the radiator limited the sound card choice than the other way around. I also don't plan to take the mb out on a regular basis so I don't think that'll be an inconvenience. If for some reason I do have to take out the mb, I'll take out the rad too, until it becomes too big a PITA. If that happens, maybe I'll switch out the rads.

And I assume the low-speed Yate Loons are still an appropriate choice with the XSPC rads?

So on to my next round of noob questions.
1) What's the best way to leak test? Do you just install the whole WC system but don't plug in anything else. Spare PSU + paper clip trick? Then after 24 hours or no leaks (hopefully) reinstall hard drives, optical drives, etc. and rewire?
2) Thermal compound, paste, ceramique, grease, I'm lost. Are there certain places you use one and other places you use another? Is Arctic MX-2 the best thing out there?
3) Fans - OK, on a triple radiator there are 3 fans. Do you just parallel them and send one feed to the fan controller? That way each knob (or whatever) is an area, rather than an individual fan.
4) Temperature Monitoring - The motherboard and video card both have utilities that among other things, report the temp. Is that enough? How do you measure loop temperature?
5) Any more opinions about 3/8" ID tubing vs. 1/2"? I plan to use compression fittings.

Anyhow, here's my shopping list for now:

XSPC RX240 Extreme Performance Radiator
XSPC RX360 Extreme Performance Radiator
Yate Loon 120mm Low Speed Silent Case Fan - D12SL-12 (5)
RadGrillz Stripes 2x120 Aluminum Black
RadGrillz Stripes 3x120 Aluminum Black
Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC Pump
XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC
Lian Li Rheobus Fan Controller 5.25" - Black
Petra'sTech PT_Nuke -PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
Lian Li EX-23NB Black Drive Bay Expansion/Cooling Kit

I'll still need tubing and fittings, but I'll pick them out after I decide on tube diameter. I'm also waiting on 45s and 90s until after I make my loop and see where I need them. I'm sure there are other odds & ends but you never know what they're gonna be.

I also have CCFL questions cuz I've never done that before either. Is it OK to ask them here or would that be considered off-topic?

TIA,
Joel

 

[Arcygenical]

Yates are great for XSPC rads.

Your list looks good - cept for the Lian Li rheobus... If you buy the sunbeam rheobus, for about 20$ cheaper, you can easily make your own Lian Li Version. Just take the front plate off the sunbeam one, and put it "face to face" with a Lian Li one (so the out-facing sides are touching) and drill through the lian li bracket, using the sunbeam bracket as a stencil.

Go ahead and ask the CCFL question here - or in the modding subforum.