Alternative pump controller(thinking $2)

[cyrusfox]

So I have been messing with my Laing MCP350 pump and the fan controller I have just isn't strong enough for the current going through it(it gets pretty darn hot within the first couple of minutes!). SO I have been thinking of a way to get a decent pump controller without having to pay $35 for one and I think I have found a solution.

[ame="http://cgi.ebay.com/DC12V-24V-LED-dimmer-brightness-adjustable-controller-/180689474758?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a11ee94c6#ht_4697wt_916"]DC12V LED Dimmer[/ame]DC12V LED Dimmer brightness adjustable controller $2 from Hong Kong!(thank you ebay)

I'll wire a molex connect to it while I wait for it to arrive and update with how well it works. I mean all my pump needs is a 12v potential(heck its even worked with a 6.5 V potential!).

Is anyone whose reading this thinks this is a bad idea? As far as I can tell it shouldn't be an issue and this dimmer has a high overhead(8amps!). Let me know what you all think, will be updating as I go along.

 

[tangoseal]

I don't see the need to throttle pumps. They are made to.run 24-7 at a static rpm for best performance. Your pump though. I can see that being good for fan controller.

 

[cyrusfox]

I don't see the need to throttle pumps. They are made to.run 24-7 at a static rpm for best performance. Your pump though. I can see that being good for fan controller.

The reason to throttle is to decrease flow and pressure, the only thing limiting my pump currently is internal resistance on the impeller/rotor. There is little resistance in my loop currently, so the the little pump runs at full kilter producing vibration and consuming more power than it needs too. Yes I have the pump attached to a gel surface(to absorb vibration), but I am going for a near silent rig. Only CPU is currently in the loop and I have one XSPC RX360 rad, with another 120rad/resevoir combo(you can see both below (reservoir is sticking out above the case below, XSPC 3x120 rad is on the right). I always planned on getting a controller, but I have bought all my WC stuff second hand(except tubing and some mounting screws), so far I have spent $140 on my set-up. I had the loop originally complete for $55, but I didn't like how it was held together with zip ties and rubber bands and I had to have my case open.

This is what my rig looks like currently(I have it resting on its side all the time, as my desk doesn't allow any upright case that is taller than 15".

The side panel bows up slightly on the right side as the 120 rad on the back doesn't allow me to get the side piece on squarely and I don't want to cut the side panel. If I ever switch to running the case upright, it won't matter as I'll have to switch the rad's position, and then it won't be in the way. As it is now it blocks a couple USB and Firwire ports on my Motherboards I/O section(that's one thing I didn't foresee when I was planning the layout, FYI the case is NZXT Beta Series).

It is routed pretty cleanly, I ran into a couple problems making everything fit as this case seems a little small.

As you can see the pump is in the HD bay(bottom right) resting on gel, ziptied down to it, with the tubes running through some mounting holes in the cage. The pump is the loudest part of my system(It just hums a little, but I would like to dampen it some more). Here is a closer look at the fans pushing air out through the rads.

I had to use that old green tube one of the guys sent me as the clear tubing I bought was way too thick! Everything here is 3/8" ID. I had to shave it down to fit on the compression fitting for the CPU block, and after I had done that once, I decided it wasn't worth the effort to do it twice just to have matching tubing, I'll probably buy a couple ft of better tubing next time. Thats what I get for buying the cheapest tubing from petras tech shop.

 

[MrBean_Oz]

Yep, nice idea

And I am with you on throttling the pump(s) when needed, as I have 2x DDC3.25's in series, and this is not for flow/pressure et al, simply redundancy, and at full-tilt, they are flowing just to much - creating a vortex on the main pump inlet if you don't keep the res 100% full....

Let us know how this works for you, but nice, and cheap - as long as it reads 8A and not 0.8A

 

[86 5.0L]

looks like its a simple trimpot with a knob, case and terminals.

I wouldnt be surprised if you crack it open and find an undersized pot(amp-wise)

 

[ghost6303]

The reason to throttle is to decrease flow and pressure,

when using magnetic-drive pumps, which most common water cooling pumps are (where a magnetic field causes the impeller to spin; not a direct drive shaft), using a ball valve on the "out" port of the pump to throttle flow is much better than trying to limit the voltage of the pump.

you wont damage the pump by restricting flow in this way, and you arent undervolting the motor which can cause problems itself, and you dont need another controller in your case. you wont be running the risk of the voltage dipping too low to operate the pump, or risk it not turning on because the controller is set too low.

the only single reason where undervolting your pump is beneficial is to decrease operating noise.

 

[sok0]

Those pumps are rated to run at full power for 50,000 hours and they do not have pwn which means the only way to slow it down is to undervolt it. Problem with this is that if you use a resistor to limit the voltage, the pump might not start up. And at most you could take off 2-3V from the pump, which isnt even worth it. You would be better off buying some foam to put under the pump, and it also would help if the pump isnt actually screwed into the case via a screw, rather just held in place by the tubing if you can.

And furthermore, if you are hearing that pump over your video card running, then I can almost guarantee the loop isnt bleed properly. If you want a silent rig, it isnt ever gonna happen using an air cooled video card with a loud ass fan.