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A potential WC setup

I

Imitation

2[H]4U
Joined
Jun 18, 2004
Messages
2,536
Ok guys I've got a tentative setup that I'm planning on buying here in the near future. Here are the parts that I'm currently looking at:

Hydor L35
DD TDX
Dtek Pro 120 rad
DD 5.25 bay res
7ft clearflex
some sort of 120mm fan

I think this setup is a solid mix of cooling and price currently. I really wanted to go with the swifty pump but i couldn't toss in the extra 30 bucks it would take to get it. I've been looking around and haven't found much info on this new L35 pump from hydor, does anyone have much exp with it yet? Basically all I know is that its the new model to replace the L30. Also is it a big deal to mount the rad on its side and not have the barbs on the top? I currently don't think that should be a problem but I'd love to hear what you guys have to say, I've not done any WC yet in my life and am looking to jump into it this summer.
 
I haven't heard much about the L35 either.

Are you planning on cooling your graphics card as well? or just CPU for now?
 
no prob if the barbs for the rad are on the top bottom or side doesn't matter.... on the L35 .... I havn't had experience with the pump but from Hydor's reputation and from what I have heard about the pump should be a good solid choice
 
I think that after some more research this morning (while at work :) ) I'm probly gonna go with the swifty 6002 cpu block. It supposedly gets good temps and it can mount using the socket lugs instead of tearing out the mobo and stuff, even though I'll probly tear everything out for the install anyway. But it will be nice when i upgrade from my 1700+ tbred b to a mobile barton sometime this fall. Its also about 8 bucks cheaper than the TDX.
 
Imitation said:
I think that after some more research this morning (while at work :) ) I'm probly gonna go with the swifty 6002 cpu block. It supposedly gets good temps and it can mount using the socket lugs instead of tearing out the mobo and stuff, even though I'll probly tear everything out for the install anyway. But it will be nice when i upgrade from my 1700+ tbred b to a mobile barton sometime this fall. Its also about 8 bucks cheaper than the TDX.
Click to expand...

That's probably a good choice...And yeah it should be easier to switch out when you get your new gear in.
 
I'd get rid of the bayres and make an airtrap.
Airtraps if you dont know are like super t lines on their sides.
Picture%20019.jpg

It goes up the right side, and hits that bend and makes the water go back down the other side, I dont really know the schematics or science behind it but it works well. I went from bleeding with a T line which took nearly 10 hours (It was before the inlet of my pump) and then when I switched to the aitrap it went to like 20 minutes.
 
Airtraps if you dont know are like super t lines on their sides.
Click to expand...

How does this thing work on its side? I really looks like a bayres made of pvc so its alot more compact. I guess im unsure how this thing is oriented in the case to work properly. I could make one of those if it functions while in a 5.25 bay, I could make one for about 4 bucks i bet. Can you tell me how this thing works and if its easier to fill and drain with?
 
Imitation said:
How does this thing work on its side? I really looks like a bayres made of pvc so its alot more compact. I guess im unsure how this thing is oriented in the case to work properly. I could make one of those if it functions while in a 5.25 bay, I could make one for about 4 bucks i bet. Can you tell me how this thing works and if its easier to fill and drain with?
Click to expand...

no lol it dosent work on its side, the way yous ee it in that pic is the way it would work.
I dont know if youre set on the bayres go for it but theyre notorious for leaking/cracking.
 
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