• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

A good PSU for this pc...

Haal07

n00b
Joined
May 22, 2005
Messages
8
I've looked at the very nice sticky topics but I still can't seem to narrow it down. I''m looking for the cheapest thing I can get but I'm willing to spend a little extra if I need to. I only need a few suggestions. Thanks a lot guys.

Specs:
-Radeon X800XL 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI-Express x16
-GIGABYTE GA-K8NF-9 Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 ATX AMD Motherboard
-AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Winchester Integrated into Chip FSB 512KB L2 Cache Socket 939 Processor
-GeIL Value 512MB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM Unbuffered DDR 400 (PC 3200)
-SAMSUNG SpinPoint P Series SP1614C 160GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache Serial ATA150
-2 Disk Drives
 
Anything with at least 21A on the 12V rail or a dual 12V PSU with a combined wattage capability of 300W.

Other than that, you'll need to talk budget, bling and if you want modular, etc.
 
I'm really hoping to get as much under $100 USD as I can. I'm not looking for anything fancy or anything just something that gets the job done fairly well.
 
Then there's a lot of choices out there. Since your budget is @ $100, try to maximize that budget and get something good. Don't settle for cheap. Just remember to look at the 12V rating. Lots of PSU's like Antec and Thermaltake will gladly sell you a 480W power supply with all of it's juice on the 5V rail. Not good. Good luck to ya!
 
That wouldn't be a good buy because the continuity amps on the 12v are only 12a and 10a.

Might i suggest this one. No bling, but excellent quality.
 
I don't really understand what that means. What are the disadvantages of that? And thanks for the suggestion it's just a wee bit too expensive for me. Thanks though.
 
It means it only has 22amps on the twelve volt, which isn't much at all. Plus, that unit isn't exactly quality.

If the 550watt version of the unit is too much, go for the 460watt version. link
 
Haal07 said:
I don't really understand what that means. What are the disadvantages of that? And thanks for the suggestion it's just a wee bit too expensive for me. Thanks though.

From my dual rail review here: http://www.slcentral.com/dual-12v-rail-psu-shootout/

(14 * 12) + (16 * 12) = 336? What is this? NEW math?

You'll often find that the capabilities of the +12V rails combined almost never equal what is listed for each rail individually added together. This is because, although the two +12V rails are on separate transistors, they're still being fed by the same, single transformer and rectifier. So one rail might be able to pull off 168W if loaded up by itself, and the other might be able to pull off 192W if loaded up by itself, but the amount of juice that can even get to those transistors (safely) isn't more than 336W, so you simply CAN NOT fully load both rails to their maximum capabilities. And when I say "can not" load them, I mean load them without overloading them and staying within the tolerance of the rated rail. I mean, I put 16A loads on 14A rails all day long... that doesn't mean it's recommended. ;)

The maximum capability for both rails combined is "only" 22A, which IMHO is fine for someone that has an A64 and an ATI card. With all things considered, I would venture to guess your maximum 12V load with all your drives, etc. is only about 18~20A and that's MAXIMUM of all things maxed out simultaneously, which is a hell of a lot of overhead to consider.

nas82: I've never heard of Mercury, so I'll save that. But you're suggesting a 460W that apparently has only 18A on the 12V rail. How is that better than 22A on the 12V rail?

And do you have a link to that AMS "quad rail's" actual specs and not just per rail ratings (like combined maximum wattage, etc?) I don't think actually believe that PSU can max 41A on all 12V rails combined, do you? I find that very unlikely... especially for a $79 "550W" PSU. Given the numbers on all of the other rails, I'm going to say the 12V rail does probably 28A maximum. Which isn't shabby. But again, I've never seen the PSU in real life before.
 
Nothing wrong with Antec either (although the NeoPower is a bit expensive and I'm not sure he wants to pay the premium for modular cables.) But every one is going to throw out there a different suggestion. He left himself pretty wide open: Got an AMD64, an ATI card and a $100 budget. That allows for HUNDREDS of potential suggestions.

That why I figured I'd let him throw out ideas and I'll just say yes or no. :D
 
Johnny, that 460watt is a dual 12v rail at 18A and 15A. It doesn't show it on directron.com but it shows it on newegg and AMS home page.

I'll get you the combined amps for the quad rails as soon as i open my case up and write it down.

Also, this isn't the only psu that has quad rails. I think a seasonic does one as well.

The Mercury PSU is quite heavy and silent, and it's rumored CWT makes these psu, just rebadged with the AMS name.

link to 460watt pdf
 
go fortron bluestorm!!!... i know eventually people are gonna get tired of me recommending that psu
 
The 430W Antec TruePower I picked up yesterday to replace a failing 380W'er is werkin' great!! I like Antec. Good stuff.
 
Heres a picture i took of my PSU label, but for some reason i can't figure out how to make it clear on the text.

showimg.jpg
 
nas82 said:
Heres a picture i took of my PSU label, but for some reason i can't figure out how to make it clear on the text.

showimg.jpg
turn your camera on macro mode and be sure to focus the camera before taking the shot (hold the shutter buton half way down)
 
nas82 said:
Heres a picture i took of my PSU label, but for some reason i can't figure out how to make it clear on the text.

showimg.jpg

Ok. It says TOTAL WATTS 420W. That's 35A. Not shabby at all.

And if Directron has that listing on that other one messed up, they REALLY need to fix it. Think of how many educated buyers are passing up on that because it's listed as a single 18A 12V rail. :( Uggh!
 
How do you turn on macro mode?

Edit: I got a better piucture this time.



How did you catualate that to get 35A?
 
Total combined watts for the 12V rails is 420W. 420W divided by 12V is 35A.
 
_Korruption_ said:
How are you to say that? Then you go on and throw out some brand we've never heard of?

Seasonic S12-430
OCZ Powerstream 420W
Antec TruePower II 480W Blue

All under $100 and are do-it-all power supplies. I'm not a big fan of modular cabling.

I know what everyone thinks is quality and doesn't.Seasonic, OCZ, Antec(makers of the AMS Mercury), PC power and cooling, Zippy and Fortron.

Also forgot to mention, i don't believe to many cheaper units have adjustable pots, or am i wrong on that?



I did my homework and purchased my current unit. Perhaps if you check out AMS website and the quality products they make, which is more than just power supplies, then you wouldn't accuse me so fast.

JohnnyGURU, perhaps you can do a review of the unit.

Edit: forgot to mention, this unit comes with adjustable pots, I don't believe to many cheaper units have this option?
 
nas82 said:
Antec(makers of the AMS Mercury)
Perhaps when we see an inside shot of an AMS unit, or if we see the UL number matching up to CWT, then I'll believe you. The same thing happened with the XClio units -- we were a little skeptical at first (though the specs were attractive), but when we saw the UL number matching up and the insides looking like a typical CWT unit, we were sold.
 
You're right, I myself would love for someone to review this unit and open her up and see the insides. I don't feel like voiding my warranty.
 
nas82 said:
You're right, I myself would love for someone to review this unit and open her up and see the insides. I don't feel like voiding my warranty.

I'm over at Anandtech trying to sell of review units so I can have enough cash to buy more. That one will go on my list of units to blow up.. err... test.
 
Oh.. and apparently older AMS PSU's (< 300W) were Channelwell. But not necessarily anymore. They may or may not be. The UL number belongs to AMS. Have to open one up and look for CWT part numbers on the components. ;)
 
jonnyGURU said:
I'm over at Anandtech trying to sell of review units so I can have enough cash to buy more. That one will go on my list of units to blow up.. err... test.

Awesome, wehen you do, please post it here and PM me, because i will be interested.
But for now, there is a picture on the directron website, which is int he pdf file on the ams of the inside of the PSU in question.

pp5503eps01.jpg
 
Doesn't help. :( Can't see the PCB. Cant see the tops of the transformers.
 
I know, but the heatsinks look nice though. At almost at 6 pounds, really nice.
 
I just hooked a multimeter to this power supply with all my stuff hooked up, video, hdd ect.

The software readings are way off of course. Here are the numbers: 12v @ 12.01, 5v @ 5.05, 3.3v @ 3.42.

Not to shabby eh?

Edit: I'm leaving the multimeter plugged in so i can see if it changes much on the 12v rail, i saw it go up to 12.02 and back to 12.01. The 3.3v rail is the only one thats a bit high, maybe i need to crack her open and adjust the pots.
 
nas82 said:
I just hooked a multimeter to this power supply with all my stuff hooked up, video, hdd ect.

The software readings are way off of course. Here are the numbers: 12v @ 12.01, 5v @ 5.05, 3.3v @ 3.42.

Not to shabby eh?

Not too shabby........how about not too relevant. Anyone can pull of those numbers with a static config on the right crossload of a Deer.
 
Spectre said:
Not too shabby........how about not too relevant. Anyone can pull of those numbers with a static config on the right crossload of a Deer.

I guess everyone needs to stop testing their computers with a multimeter, since it is illrelevant. Also, you all need to stop recommending people to test with their power supplies with a multimeter, since it's not relevant anymore.
 
nas82 said:
I guess everyone needs to stop testing their computers with a multimeter, since it is illrelevant. Also, you all need to stop recommending people to test with their power supplies with a multimeter, since it's not relevant anymore.
Of course it's relevent. That's how you get some basic readings from power supplies.
 
nas82 said:
I guess everyone needs to stop testing their computers with a multimeter, since it is illrelevant. Also, you all need to stop recommending people to test with their power supplies with a multimeter, since it's not relevant anymore.

When we tell someone to check their PSU with a multimeter it is very relevant. They are determining if their PSU is functioning properly under a single load distribution. It IS NOT however relevant enough to make a recommendation off of since we have no idea how it would perform under a different load. Sadly you seem to not understand the scientific method and it's proper application. Anecidotal evidence like you provide means little to nothing as it is not a proper test with a set of defined variables being evaluated.
 
_Korruption_ said:
Of course it's relevent. That's how you get some basic readings from power supplies.
I know it's relevent, except spectre must come back with smart comments and no helpful info on how one can test the unit with loads, but he is good at implied insulting.
 
nas82 said:
I know it's relevent, except spectre must come back with smart comments and no helpful info on how one can test the unit with loads, but he is good at implied insulting.

Well read the post above yours and you may understand what I am saying..
 
Ok, whats a good way of stress testing this unit?

Right now i'm using prime95, anything better to stress test it?
 
Back
Top