800d Build Finished - Thoughts Needed

[Italiano86]

Hey all. I finished this build a couple weeks ago and everything turned out pretty well I think. The Parts I used:

Bitspower v2 top
2X Bitspower white led plugs for Res
Swiftech 655 with speed adjust
16 ft. of PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD
Bitspower Matt Black G 1/4 - 90 Degree Dual Rotary
Bitspower Matt Black Rotary 90 degree G 1/4 adapter
10 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Compression Fitting
Bitspower Quad Rad Guard
XSPC LCD Temperature sensor - white
Bitspower Matt Black G 1/4 Temperature Sensor
Bitspower Matt Black Rotary 45 degree G 1/4 adapter
[URL="http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SM-12-Medium-Speed-pr-3770.html"]4 x YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed[/URL]
4 x YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12 - Low Speed
EK Supreme HF block
XSPC RX 480 rev.2
EK Advanced 250 res x2
EK 470 Block
PT Nuke but not sure If I should have bought this one instead
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Mod
Black 6/32 screws for rad

This rad is huge, there was no way for it to fit in my beautiful lian li1010 case, but I may use it for another future water build when parts get waay more efficient.

Wasn't easy cutting into the case but it had to be done. :shock:

My yate low speed fans painted. The coats turned out kinda heavy but they look good. I will probably replace them soon with ap-15 typhoons. :shrug:

This was the hardest part. I was only able to attach the fans to the rad with the radcover on by holding it up this way.

Almost Finished!

The white led's are very mild which I decided to go with this time because having a bunch of blue leds in a case can get quite bright.

I am sort of mixed on how it all turned out. The build went flawless, but the results are sort of meh. I am running my pump at about middle speed which I would say is around 2.5 right now. I just did some occt testing on the cpu while running kombuster for a half hour to get the water temp stabilized and the result are as follows:

Room Temp - about 18.5c roughly
Water temp - 35.8c note(the probe is in the reservoir bottom and this is the warmest part of the loop since the res is the final part before the pump and rad.) Haven't seen it reach 36 yet.
Gpu Temp - 53c
Cpu Temp - 63c-66c ish

My 470 gpu is running at:
vcore - 1.087
Core - 768
Shader - 1536
Mem - 1809

Q6600 is @ 3.2 with 1.35v

My delta seems high, but not bad I suppose. There is one major concern for now and that is the positive pressure of my case. The quad rad with 4 yate loon low speed fans in push config running around 12-1300 rpms as intakes with only one corsair 140mm exhaust fan must be screwing everything up. The fan above my pump is the same corsair which pulls air into the bottom, but again not much. Not sure what rpms they run at but I would say around 1000.

I can literally put my hand above my rad guard an inch or so and it almost feels like an exhaust port on the outer edge of the fan, which tells me there is too much positive pressure going on and it can't efficiently get enough air through the case.

This is where I need some advice. I am thinking of getting 2 140mm replacement fans that are still quiet but can pull more cfm out of the case. This will not remedy the extreme positive pressure though I fear.

Now that the typhoon ap-15's are back in stock at a few places I am thinking of putting 4 on the rad as either push or pull with a fan controller because at the moment the yates under the bitspower rad guard are too loud for me. I guess the mesh just screws with the fan noise. I am wondering if I put them in a pull config if this will eliminate the noise.

Lastly, other than the crazy positive pressure going on I need to figure out what to do about dust. The rad likes to pull in a fair amount of fine dust, which after 2 weeks is insignificant, but over time it will add up. Please suggest some sort of filters that will work with my radguard with the fans in either a push or pull config. I don't mind taking an air hose to the case once a month if not. :burn:

I hope this post isn't too crazy, but I would like to get lots of advice in the issues I brought up and let me know if my build seems practical after I spent around 1300 for the water setup with the case, lol.

 

[artnsx]

Sorry I can't help with fan/pressure situation, but i just wanted to say thanks for posting this.

I have a 800d that i will be using for a watercooling build and the pics of the case and links to the items are really useful for a person like me since i don't really which part is which when it comes to this stuff.

Also your total spent is a wake up call because i thought i would be able to do it for much cheaper.

 

[CustomModAddict]

What rad do you have in there? Can you give us a closer picture of the inside top of your case?

Your temps are a little off, but good news, its an airflow problem. Try mounting your fans inside the case and pull air in not push it in. With your system specs you shouldnt need push pull just yet, add another 470 card and you may need push pull. See if you change those fans around and it helps.

 

[Italiano86]

Sorry I can't help with fan/pressure situation, but i just wanted to say thanks for posting this.

I have a 800d that i will be using for a watercooling build and the pics of the case and links to the items are really useful for a person like me since i don't really which part is which when it comes to this stuff.

Also your total spent is a wake up call because i thought i would be able to do it for much cheaper.

Honestly man, I went with alot of bling and misc items like the pump cover and top, compression fittings, etc. If you were to go with just plain barbs and stock everything else you would be able to save I would say 150-200.

What rad do you have in there? Can you give us a closer picture of the inside top of your case?

Your temps are a little off, but good news, its an airflow problem. Try mounting your fans inside the case and pull air in not push it in. With your system specs you shouldnt need push pull just yet, add another 470 card and you may need push pull. See if you change those fans around and it helps.

I will see if I can get some more pics later. I only have my stupid iphone for pics, but it should work.

The fans are on top of the rad, which is an xspc rx480 with low fpi for low rpm fans. Air is being pulled in trough the top and being pushed through the rad into the case, which isn't being very efficient right now apparently. Even if I did change it into a pull and put them on the bottom the positive pressure would still screw with things I think.

Someone in another forum suggested I make the rad an exhaust and reverse all the other fans to be intakes inside the case, but this would still be heavily imbalanced and make it have negative pressure and turn my case into a vacume cleaner with all the dust it would pull in, but it would possibly be cooler.

Idle temps are actually good, water temp is around 25-26c, with cpu at 26-32 across the cores and my gpu sits at around 32-34c. Air-water delta is around 7c, because my ambient is usually 18c.

The 140mm fans are the problem right now, they don't move enough air. I put in a yate medium speed in the rear port and it's a bit better, but it's still imbalanced.

I can actually mount 120's in the 140 ports, would getting like 6 ap-15's with fan controllers make sense to swap all the fans out? It's not gonna be cheap, lol.

I need an internal fan controller that is out of sight that can handle my 4 rad fans, plus maybe another set of 2, so I want to be able to control the rad plus the other 2 on their own.

 

[sok0]

Temps seem decent to me. Whats the issue? You probably just got a one of the older q6600's that runs hotter. And you never know, painting the fans might have affected their performance. I would run the pump at a higher speed as well. It might be slightly loud with the case panel off, but after you put it on, it's nearly inaudible. And with all the money you spent, surprised you didnt buy a couple of 90's, woulda cut about 2 feet outta your loop.

 

[Italiano86]

The issue is airflow, the rad is warm to the touch which it shouldn't be, at least that's what I'm hearing. My cpu is actually a newer G0, I just have a higher deltaT which I am trying to devise a way to lower right now by messing with the fan config. Some people have mentioned I reverse the fans at the top to pull through the rad to exhaust, and reverse the other fans as intakes.

My biggest problem is the 2 140mm corsair fans, which I am guessing are like 20-30 cfm as exhausts, they are worthless basically. Can anyone suggest some decent high performance 140 fans that can go on a controller or a set that have a decent cfm to db ratio? I can make one a 120, but the other has to stay 140.

The tube length is the style I chose to go with, I wanted it to flow, and the tube coming out of the vid card actually braces it up so it doesn't sag. I used a 45 on the rad to the cpu, and the way it is now is the only way I could keep the tube from kinking. I'll show you the pump later, it is kinda crazy, it has a large 90 plus a 45, and I do have a 90 on the rad. I wasn't that stingy, haha.

Lastly, for the pump, it has a high pitch noise which is audible through the case closed. I am using the bitspower rubber foot, but am thinking of adding the foam material that came with the pump to see if that helps with the weird sound.

Everything is fine, but I know it can be better. I originally wanted ap-15 typhoons but no one had them in stock, but now they do, so I'm gonna buy 4-6 soon I hope.

 

[Italiano86]

I fully reversed all the fans so the rad pulls air out of the case and the rest are intakes, and also took off the mesh over the fans to make a little quieter, results:

Idle Temps:
Cpu-24-30 across cores
water-24.6
Gpu-34

Crazy load:
Cpu-54-60 across cores, which was 60, 60, 54, 54. Kinda odd but 6c difference not bad I suppose.
Gpu-50
Water-32.9 it kept going from 31.2-31.9 over and over again in probably a 10 second cycle, thought this kind of odd.

I am thinking if I get those typhoons and a fan controller and a couple good 140 fans the airflow will be even better and the temps will go lower, just reversing all the fans to create much higher negative pressure instead of positive pressure made a huge difference.

 

[CustomModAddict]

The issue is airflow, the rad is warm to the touch which it shouldn't be, at least that's what I'm hearing. My cpu is actually a newer G0, I just have a higher deltaT which I am trying to devise a way to lower right now by messing with the fan config. Some people have mentioned I reverse the fans at the top to pull through the rad to exhaust, and reverse the other fans as intakes.

Yes, you should be pulling from inside the case, and exhausting out, and a negative pressure case is better then positive pressure. So yes switching all your fans around should help. But you may have a fan pressure problem. That rad your using is twice as thick as a standard rad I believe.

My biggest problem is the 2 140mm corsair fans, which I am guessing are like 20-30 cfm as exhausts, they are worthless basically. Can anyone suggest some decent high performance 140 fans that can go on a controller or a set that have a decent cfm to db ratio? I can make one a 120, but the other has to stay 140.

yes 20-30 cfm isn't gonna cut it. I like to use aerocool shark fans for all my water cooling they offer 82 CFM with only 26 dBa, but they come in other specs, and every color. I find the sweet spot for most rads is around 75cfm give or take a 5-10 cfm.

First thing I would do is switch all your fans around, see if that makes the difference, if not, get some 75-80 cfm fans for the rad. Dont be afraid to have to much air exiting versus entering the case. Remember negative is better for cooling the hardware.

 

[DanNeely]

Yes, you should be pulling from inside the case, and exhausting out, and a negative pressure case is better then positive pressure.

I've always heard the opposite because negative pressure results in air coming into your case at every possible opening making keeping the dust out impossible; while a positive pressure means that it's only coming in via the intake fans and you can filter most of it out.

Also negative pressure will reduce the CFM produced by the exhaust fans on your rad decreasing its cooling ability.

 

[Korben Dallas]

I've always heard the opposite because negative pressure results in air coming into your case at every possible opening making keeping the dust out impossible; while a positive pressure means that it's only coming in via the intake fans and you can filter most of it out.

Also negative pressure will reduce the CFM produced by the exhaust fans on your rad decreasing its cooling ability.

Negative is better than positive for cooling, vice versa for dust.

The fans on the rad are intakes.

 

[CustomModAddict]

Yes negative pressure is not good for dust, but I clean my cases once a month and they do fine.

Negative pressure in the case insures your moving more air in and out of the case, cooling all the internal hardware. Most cases if not all have more then enough ventilation holes, to compensate for extra exhaust fans.

Now granted this theory may not work for all cases, but it probably covers at least 99% of them.

Itialino86 run a load program for a little while record temps with existing set-up. Then switch rotation on the rad fans so they are the opposite direction then run your load software again and see what you get post results please.

 

[Italiano86]

Guess you guys missed my previous post where I changed the setup with better results. Here is the original test with the rad as an intake with other fans as exhaust, plus the new test with everything reversed:

Room Temp - about 18.5c roughly
Cpu Temp - 63c-66c ish
Gpu Temp - 53c
Water - 35.8c

New Config:
Room Temp - around 18c
Cpu - 54-60 across cores, which was 60, 60, 54, 54.
Gpu - 50
Water - 31.9

All testing was done while running occt linpack on cpu and kombuster max settings on gpu. This shit is no joke, these tests will push your hardware harder than anything you can do on your system, even gaming. The nice thing about the testing, 90% of the time temps won't ever get that high while playing demanding games or doing regular stuff on the computer.

Another big issue I cleared up was the mesh on the radguard which was annoyingly loud and restricted airflow. Taking it off made it quieter and possibly helped with the temps.

I guess my consensus would be to use negative over positive pressure for a water setup, especially if you use alot of rad to get a low deltaT. Dust will be a pain, but that's what I have a compressor for.

I guess people don't want to read each post, but alot of information seems to be skipped that I post, lol. Oh well.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[KipCoo]

Which quad rad are you using? If you are using a feser quad rad your temps should be much lower IMO. If you are using something a bit cheaper then I'd say the temps are are good, and at least they are much better than air of course.

Ahh, never mind I see you are using the RX480. I seriously would of went with the Feser Quad considering you spent so much on everything else.

 

[avddreamr]

There is something seriously wrong with your setup.
Does your q6600 need that much voltage to hit 3.2? Mine hit it on 1.26v.

You get the same load temperatures that I get with an i7 at 3.8 and a 5870, running prime 95 and furmark on a 5870 overclocked to 950. Thats on a rx360 with 3 ap-15s. (fans at 850-1000)
Does running your case open cause a huge drop in temps?

I think you are having an air flow issue, maybe due to painting the fans, or maybe the mounting of the cpu block. What rpm are you running your fans at ?

If you are going to get new fans, a suitable 140 mm fan is the Thermal right ty-140, it does well on heatsinks, and makes a fine case fan.
IF you get gts, you can undervolt them with speedfan, to 650-700.
You may want to consider getting ap-14s, it's unlikely that you're ever going to want to run gts at full blast. They are quiet at low rpms, but at 1850-1900rpm, the sound is pretty intense.


Ideally, if you have a high heatload, you want your setup to suck in cool air, and have your case exhaust. When you buy new fans, if you have the space try to use the old yates as shrouds, you'll gain a bit of efficiency. You also may want to look into getting something like a scythe kama-bay, to serve as a front intake.

 

[Italiano86]

The voltage is on auto because I got lazy one day and set the oc to 3.2 and just left it there since it ran stable. I am playing with 3.6 right now and am disappointed. I have the vcore set in bios to 1.4675 which is showing as 1.424, 1.432, 1.440, and 1.448 in cpuz, it sort of goes all over. My load right now running linpack at 90% is 65-70 across the cores. It's running and not give me a blue screen so it's a start I guess.

Ambient temp is around 22-24c and I can't see water temp because my lcd probe readout is on but showing blank, it does this sometimes but not sure why, it's random.

Just finished linpack. Finished with no errors. I can drop the voltage one step in the bios and give it a try, but it will only be maybe a .020 drop or so if I do, which won't dramatically affect my temps. Suggestions? 70c sucks for 75f weather, even though it's going to be much cooler in the winter time. I'm seriously thinking of adding a 140 fan to the front in a 3x bay config. I have one from my lian lie I will throw in and see what happens. I agree that my temps seem to really suck with a water cooled pc, especially after seeing yours.

 

[CustomModAddict]

Im wondering if your CPU block doesnt have good contact with the chip? Try removing the block check your thermal paste, correct if need be, reinstall, re test?

After that bump up your fan power for the rads, if you dont wanna spend the money on new powerfull fans, grab 4 cheap ones if you have them and put it in a push/pull and see what temps you got. I think you have a pressure problem across the rad, but you said you changed the fan setup.

I bet you need 80 CFM fans for that rad with single fans. But just in case its something real stupid like the CPU block not mounted correctly take the cheap way first and re-set the CPU block.

 

[Italiano86]

This xspc rad is supposed to perform optimally with fans running at only 800 rpm, it's a low fpi rad. Anything more and there are marginal gains according to most review sites. I added a 120 at the from which is a yate medium speed with an old lian li fan bay and will see if this improves airflow much.

I'll definitely check out the block this week and see if that does anything. How are you supposed to put the block on exactly? It has spring screws so I have no clue when it's on enough because you can't feel the torque. The mobo is very slightly bowed out. It's very hard to tighten the screws evenly.

 

[CustomModAddict]

You just have to sense it juggle it make sure its on pretty tight, but do so with caution, so you dont damage board or chip. But the last build I had done, the GPU was running hot, and i found the block wasn't set correctly so removing it and resetting it cured the problem.

If your rad is set for low rpm fans, then maybe it is the block. You did use thermal paste right? Do you have a couple old 120mm fans sitting around? If so throw them on the rad on the other side of the yates fans and see if you get better temps. Its a weird problem...

 

[scook9]

I like the white tubing, think I will use that in my 700d i just got.

 

[x509]

Hey all. I finished this build a couple weeks ago and everything turned out pretty well I think. The Parts I used:


Wasn't easy cutting into the case but it had to be done. :shock:

Just wondering. When you put in that 120 x 4 radiator, did you lose a drive bay? Is there still enough room to put in something "short," like a fan controller?

Any chance you could post some photos with good detail in this area?

Thanks.

 

[scook9]

You should still be able to get a fan controller in there for sure.

 

[Italiano86]

I only have about an inch or so clearance in the first drive bay from front to back, so there really isn't a whole lot. I just orfered a lamptron fc-2 which I am hoping will fit ok in the first bay, and if not, i will just yank my dvd drive at the bottom and shift my 3x120mm fan bay down by 1 and fit it in above that.

I'll see about taking some more photos this week. I also ordered 6 ap-15's and 2 yate high speed 140mm fans, so I am hoping this will fix my "airflow" issue and fix my temps. If not, I hope I didn't just waste nearly 200 dollars. lol

 

[scook9]

I have 5 AP-15s right now and like them quite a bit. Had a bunch of S-Flex G fans before but they were quite loud when used as intakes

 

[Italiano86]

I'm hoping I can even out the airflow with two of the ap-15's as intakes with higher rpm while having the 4 on the rad as exhausts runnign at quieter and lower rpms. I will either have the ap-15 intake on the back or use a yate high speed 140, I guess whichever can pull more air in and be the quietest on my fan controller.

Will put the last yate on the bottom pulling air from inside the psu bay where the pump is into the upper section of the case so hopefully this will count as some intake for the rest of the case.

I will paint the yates, and I am super tempted to also paint the typhoons...but they cost so much, lol. Wish they can just be plain white and black.