53C Load Temps for WC high?

[jhego]

I'm not sure if it's time to change the fluid since i haven't changed it since jan of this year. Can it be the fluid that is causing this high of a temp or is this normal? If it's the fluid, can someone suggest a ready-mixed blue coolant? And by draining, do i have to completely drain every single drop of it?

 

[Bbq]

For that temperature, I'd think your blocks aren't making proper contact. Also, try pentosin + Distilled water. You still have to mix, but it's way cheaper. And for draining, yes.

 

[Erasmus354]

What is your loop setup, components and what not. And is it running on the system in your sig? Also is this the temps after just installing or have they steadily been going up. Finally what is the temperature in your room?

 

[mrmodman]

hey man its summer time my temps went up 11 degrees but a little artic silver 5 brought it down 6 so im only up 5C on my load temps witch i say is pretty good cuz its hott as hell in the desert were i live

 

[fenderltd]

if I may ask, what were your idle and load temps on average?

 

[DFI Daishi]

you have you block listed in your sig, but none of the other components in your loop. could you please list everything, along with what fluid you have in there now.

taking off of block and re-seating is probably the first and easiest thing to try.

 

[Erasmus354]

Oops, I see you have a storm block which was one of the things I suspected might be a problem. Take apart the waterblock and clean out your jets, I bet you will find that half of them are blocked up with gunk from your loop. Then clean out the radiator and rest of the loop with some 50/50 vinegar and distilled water before putting it back together.

 

[Bbq]

Stupid question, but since it's a storm, did you make sure the flow goes into the center and out the side?

 

[jhego]

I'll try to answer most of your questions for i am still at work right now.

My loop setup is like this:
Radiator----->Res top--------->Res bottom------>Pump In------>Pump Out--------->CPU Mid Barb--------->Cpu Top Barb--------->Radiator

I have it exactly like this.

from Swiftech Manual:
Alternatively Connect

Pump discharge to CPU cooler inlet
CPU cooler discharge to radiator inlet
Radiator discharge to reservoir inlet
Reservoir discharge to pump inlet – MANDATORY!

Before:
Idle temps are 32C
Load temps are 46C

Now:
Idle temps are 36C
Load temps are 52C

Lately it's been hotter since it pre-summer and i live in Southern CA (in the valley).
Room temp should be around 75-80F and it will go up higher, most likely 90F in June-July.

I have reseated my CPU with Arctic Silver 5 and applying a BB size drop several times.

The coolant that im using is the one that came with the Swiftech, (green coolant).
Although i didnt use the more concentrated mix.
I see that there are 2 types of Pentosin. There is the LIFETIME COOLANT ANTI-FREEZE (RED) NITRATE , PHOSPHATE AND SILCON FREE and BLUE - NITRITE, AMIN & PHOSPHATE FREE. I prefer the blue color since everything about my comp is blue.

btw, what is wrong with the Storm block? Does it get clogged easily? If so, why is that? How can the block be stuffed with gunk if it's just filled with distilled water and coolant.
If the Storm block is the case, then i'm jsut gonna get the Apogee block so i don't have to deal with added maintenance.

For now, i'm gonna drain the fluid and flush the whole setup with vinegar and distilled water. And by taking it apart the CPU block, is it safe to do it? Is it meant to be taken apart?

and finally, Bbq
what do you mean "flow goes into the center and out the side"? There's only the top and bottom part. Please clarify.

Thanks for taking notice of this thread.

 

[fenderltd]

thanks for the temp update, I have a similar setup minus the storm

 

[theseeker]

The Storm block is quite easy to take apart, and cleaning it is quite easy as well. A toothbrush and distilled water is all you need.
It is also a superior block, I would not replace it.

 

[Erasmus354]

You want the water to be going into the barb that is directly over the middle of the block. Telling us top and bottom does no good. Also, the block can be clogged because you failed to properly clean the components before filling the loop. Radiators are the biggest culprit as they are normally full of all sorts of nasty chemicals and other gunk.

 

[jhego]

The Storm block is quite easy to take apart, and cleaning it is quite easy as well. A toothbrush and distilled water is all you need.
It is also a superior block, I would not replace it.

That's good to know that it's easy taking it apart as well as cleaning it. So i guess jsut scrubbing the inside with a brush then washing it away with distilled water is what u mean.

You want the water to be going into the barb that is directly over the middle of the block. Telling us top and bottom does no good. Also, the block can be clogged because you failed to properly clean the components before filling the loop. Radiators are the biggest culprit as they are normally full of all sorts of nasty chemicals and other gunk.

Hmm, i have the water going in the middle barb then out of the top barb to the rad. How does that affect performance? Also i didn't flush out the components so it's possible that it has gunk floating around. Well im definetely going to drain out the fluid. Im gonna use Pentosin Blue and Distilled to refill. I'm also going to switch the tubes for the CPU.

So how would you clean the components? Something about vinegar and distilled. So just use any white vinegar? Run the loop with vinegar and water for how many hours? In other words, please help

 

[headala]

Others can check me on this, but I don't think that running vinegar through your loop is the best thing, especially for the pump and res.

I took out my rad, laid if flat on a counter, and poured a 4 to 1 distilled-vinegar solution into it, let it sit for about an hour, then flushed it out with distilled several times. I did the same with the copper part of the block in a glass bowl. I used a toothpick to clean out the cups, and a needle to get the gunk out of the jets, flushing and washing with distilled.

Make sure you reassemble your storm correctly with the hole in the second part lining up to the top part. It's a common mistake to switch it around and kill your flow.

 

[DFI Daishi]

Hmm, i have the water going in the middle barb then out of the top barb to the rad. How does that affect performance? Also i didn't flush out the components so it's possible that it has gunk floating around. Well im definetely going to drain out the fluid. Im gonna use Pentosin Blue and Distilled to refill. I'm also going to switch the tubes for the CPU.

which barb you have water going into affects performance because of the way in which the storm is designed.

the storm has 35 nozzles directing jets of water into 35 pits in the copper base plate. the idea is the by creating high water velocity impinging on the copper surface, there is a lot of turbluence generated, which allows the water to make more effective thermal contact with the copper surface, and carry away heat more effectively.

if you have the waterblock set up such that the center nozzle is the outlet, the jets are unable to do their job, and it will result in roughly 2C higher temps.

simplified, but i think that covers what you were asking about........

when you take apart your block, it is the nozzles and pits that you need to make sure are clean and free of debris.

when you re-assemble your block, make sure to tighten the bolts a few turns at a time, in a "X" pattern, so the O-ring doesn't get pinched and everything lines up properly.

check the pics of the storm't big brother, just for your interest: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=952774&highlight=storm

 

[jhego]

which barb you have water going into affects performance because of the way in which the storm is designed.

the storm has 35 nozzles directing jets of water into 35 pits in the copper base plate. the idea is the by creating high water velocity impinging on the copper surface, there is a lot of turbluence generated, which allows the water to make more effective thermal contact with the copper surface, and carry away heat more effectively.

if you have the waterblock set up such that the center nozzle is the outlet, the jets are unable to do their job, and it will result in roughly 2C higher temps.

simplified, but i think that covers what you were asking about........

when you take apart your block, it is the nozzles and pits that you need to make sure are clean and free of debris.

when you re-assemble your block, make sure to tighten the bolts a few turns at a time, in a "X" pattern, so the O-ring doesn't get pinched and everything lines up properly.

check the pics of the storm't big brother, just for your interest: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=952774&highlight=storm

Oh if that's the case then then i guess i have it in correctly. Since the water goes in the middle barb and from the schematics of the Storm, it shows that the 35 nozzles is in the middle. I think Erasmus354 had it mixed up.

I also show 2 different types of Pentosin,
Pentosin Blue G11 Long-life Coolant
Original equipment in most German cars produced before 02/96. This phosphate, nitrile and amine free formula is safe for use in all engines and offers extended change intervals.
Pentosin Pink G12 Lifetime Coolant
Original equipment in most German cars produced after 03/96. This new phosphate, nitrile and amine free formula is safe for use in all engines and protects for the longer change intervals specified for newer cars. Can also reduce operating temperatures. Can be used in earlier cars with a complete system flush.

Has anybody used the Pentosin Pink G12 Lifetime Coolant?

 

[Adidas4275]

I have similar temps... at almost any voltages, but I do have a dual 80mm rad and a via aqua 1300 and a TDX so it could be the pump with on 6' of head or the dual 80mm rad.

I am creating a new case...... Lian Li PC-7b w/ a BIP 120x2 and then dual via aqua's in serial to increase the haed to about 9'. 6 feet on both in serial makes about 9 feet of head.

so hopefully my temps go down.

 

[Erasmus354]

I think Erasmus354 had it mixed up.

I said you want to make sure that the water is going in the barb that is directly over the middle..... all you said was top and bottom. And depending upon the orientation of the block the top one could be the one over the middle, or it could be the one offset to the side.

 

[jhego]

Ok, i just got my pentosin blue from the mail today and im gonna start bleeding the system. How would you measure the mixture? All i have is a funnel and a plastic pitcher to mix the solution.
And before you guys drain the coolant, did you guys uninstall all the components or did you just leave it in there? I'm scared that i might splash coolant onto the mobo, vid card, etc. while draining and fry the system.

 

[Eastcoasthandle]

May I offer a suggestion. Those temps are high for watercooling. It appears that you need to clean your block then reapply AS5 on the GPU/CPU.

 

[bail_w]

First of all, What are all the watercooling compoents in your loop?

 

[jhego]

First of all, What are all the watercooling compoents in your loop?

I have the Swiftech Apex Ultra complete set except the Apogee block.
STORM CPU waterblock
MCR220 radiator
MCP655™ 12 Volts DC pump
MCRES-Micro reservoir

 

[bail_w]

I have the Swiftech Apex Ultra complete set except the Apogee block.
STORM CPU waterblock
MCR220 radiator
MCP655™ 12 Volts DC pump
MCRES-Micro reservoir

Try to switech the fans of the radiator into pull/push, and update your motherboard bios if needed.