49 KS8000 setup - help please.

StormClaw

Gawd
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Guys, how do you properly set it up for PC use? When I select the HDMI UHD Color mode ON - the Game Mode is greyed out (off)

Is there some thread/post/article on how to properly calibrate KS8000 for PC/PC-gaming use?

Exactly for KS8000/KS8500 model, because other guides are written for slightly different models and so the guidelines are not exact (like menu discrepancies)

Thanks.


EDIT: Fixed all this. If you stumbled on this thread and need help setting up your TV then read the thread below for solution (post#19)
 
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Ok, i somehow managed to get these settings:

- Output color format: RGB
- Output Dynamic Range: Full
- Gaming Mode: ON
- HDMI UHD color: ON

Is this good?


Though If I select YCbCr444 color mode, then the output dynamic range is set to "Limited" and greyed out (and the picture is a bit washed out, blacks are not so intense as in RGB mode).

What would you say is the best way?

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Like I said via PM, RGB Full introduces black crush. You'll lose details in dark areas. RGB limited or YCbCr444 is recommended.
 
Like I said via PM, RGB Full introduces black crush. You'll lose details in dark areas. RGB limited or YCbCr444 is recommended.
Gotcha. Everything is running pretty good now. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

Gaming in 4k is fantastic. SW Battlefront, Jesus...

I'm somewhat overwhelmed by the size but it i think i'll get used to it. Also, going to swap it for the curved version tomorrow. Flat panel at this close range is a no-no.
Based on my previous curved Ultrawides experience (34" asus, 38" LG - curved it's pretty good when you are using it as a PC monitor, i.e. close range)
 
Gotcha. Everything is running pretty good now. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

Gaming in 4k is fantastic. SW Battlefront, Jesus...

I'm somewhat overwhelmed by the size but it i think i'll get used to it. Also, going to swap it for the curved version tomorrow. Flat panel at this close range is a no-no.
Based on my previous curved Ultrawides experience (34" asus, 38" LG - curved it's pretty good when you are using it as a PC monitor, i.e. close range)
It'll take a week or so before you get used to it. Amazing isn't it?
 
It'll take a week or so before you get used to it. Amazing isn't it?
Definitely amazing. And i only spent about 1 hour on it for now.

Going to swap for the curved version tomorrow (based on my previous curved ultrawides experience, i feel that it's a must have feature at this size / range) and then try tweaking all kinds of stuff , like scaling, icons / text size, etc.

It's got unbelievable potential.
 
Definitely amazing. And i only spent about 1 hour on it for now.

Going to swap for the curved version tomorrow (based on my previous curved ultrawides experience, i feel that it's a must have feature at this size / range) and then try tweaking all kinds of stuff , like scaling, icons / text size, etc.

It's got unbelievable potential.
Meh. I went through two 65KS8500's and they both had more BL bleeding vs the 8000. The curve isn't that dramatic. If it had a bigger curve like the newest LG panels then I'd probably be interested.
 
Great read, thanks. Tweaking YCbCr444 is definitely the way to go, i can see very subtle color range transitions, while RGB Full Range just splodges black all over the place and makes the colors so virulent and intense that it seems they eat your eyes out.
 
The TV and video card driver (or other device) have to be set to match the signal. Full range is better for contrast ratio, and darker black level. There should be no problem with black crush if the TV is set to receive a full range signal and the device/driver outputs full range RGB (0-255). I know my Samsung UN48J5200 has near perfect calibation on full range RGB, when input label is set to "PC/DVI", and "HDMI black level" is set to low. Every model is different though, it seems. On mine you loose game mode when set for PC/DVI, and all the motion enhancments are disables, not a problem for me.
 
When you use Full Range you need to set the HDMI Black Level from TV settings to match it. The Auto setting does not always work. If you get black crush and burned out whites OR you get washed out screen, you have these set wrong. When set correctly, there is NO difference in contrast ratio between RGB Limited/Ycbcr and RGB Full. But I say keep on using Ycbcr because its fool proof, it takes out the HDMI Black Level thing out of the equation. Also RGB Full conflicts with HDR, at least in Shadow Warrior 2 (who knows what happens when OS level HDR support finally arrives) and there is no downside to using it over any RGB. Color differences people have measured are so tiny that they are almost in the margin of error.

Game mode is not available in PC mode. But the lag difference is about 10ms only. Unless you play twitch shooters, forget about game mode and enjoy the superior image quality of PC mode.

The default settings of PC mode are good enough without the use of measurement device. Warm 2 should be close to 6500K color temperature. But every TV is different and if Warm 2 is too red for you, it might be below 6500K and in that case try Warm 1 instead. Gamma at 0 should also be close to 2.2 in most sets but in mine it was closer to 2.1. Try putting it into -1 if you think the black details are bit too washed out, or you just like punchier image. Dont touch Brightness and Contrast, they are correct as they are. For everything else, you'd need a colorimeter (and preferably spectro too thanks to the quantum dot backlight), do not copy anyones white balance settings because it makes matters worse. As I said, every TV is unique.
 
Meh. I went through two 65KS8500's and they both had more BL bleeding vs the 8000. The curve isn't that dramatic. If it had a bigger curve like the newest LG panels then I'd probably be interested.
That's a good thing.

It's not so dramatic as to cause noticeable discomfort, but subtle enough to even the viewing area out.

Right now i notice a slight bulging out effect towards me and hope that that slight curve will even things out. Going to the store in a couple hrs to swap it.
 
That's a good thing.

It's not so dramatic as to cause noticeable discomfort, but subtle enough to even the viewing area out.

Right now i notice a slight bulging out effect towards me and hope that that slight curve will even things out. Going to the store in a couple hrs to swap it.
If you notice a bulge from the front while it's on then yeah, replace it.

As for the curve, it looks cool from a design standpoint but I don't think it's a big enough curve to make a difference in immersion. Let me know what you think.
 
RGB limited looks awful, compared to RGB full, imo

I tried RGB Full and it just sploodges black all over the place. It looks nice at first (very contrasty, HDR-like) but then you realize that a lot of subtle colors and color transitions simply disappear and instead get covered with black.

So i'm using 444 with calibrated settings (brightness/contrast/color etc)
 
Would you please, share your calibrated settings ?
What's your GPU / control panel settings ?
Thank you
 
RGB limited looks awful, compared to RGB full, imo

Bollocks. It looks awful only when you send RGB limited into TV that expects RGB Full, resulting in washed out image. You have to set these match these manually on TV's. When everything is set right, there is NO DIFFERENE between RGB Full and Limited in general image quality. Black is just as black and white is just as white and same shadow and white details can be seen on both. Limited may be eeny weeny more suspectible to banding since there is a few less steps between absolute black and absolute white involved but otherwise they look the same when signal chain is set up correctly.
 
I tried RGB Full and it just sploodges black all over the place. It looks nice at first (very contrasty, HDR-like) but then you realize that a lot of subtle colors and color transitions simply disappear and instead get covered with black.

So i'm using 444 with calibrated settings (brightness/contrast/color etc)

And this happens when you send a RGB Full signal into a TV that expects RGB Limited. Instead of washed out image you get crushed blacks and whites. Change the HDMI Black Level to correct setting and that problem goes away.
 
Would you please, share your calibrated settings ?
What's your GPU / control panel settings ?
Thank you
I already packed my KS8000 up and taking it to the store to replace for KS8500

But the basic settings i took from this post. Use them first and then just fine tune things to your liking:


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Figured out how to get clear/sharp text in Game Mode while having the same image as PC Mode with 4:4:4. Connect your PC to any input other than the one labeled PC. Change the input to Game Console by editing the input. Change the name to computer or something other than PC. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the output color format to YCbCr444. Last of all, change, "Speical Viewing Mode' under your TV's picture settings to "Game Mode. With these settings you'll get the same image as PC Mode with 4:4;4 enabled as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms.
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Also, when PC games like the new Mass Effect are out which supports HDR10, you'll be able to enable it! Can't do that with PC Mode + 4:4:4.

Picture settings:

Under picture size I have 16:9 and fit to screen enabled. Under expert settings I have backlight at whatever I'm comfortable with which is usually 4-6 because my room is dark, brightness at 43, contrast at 95, sharpness at 0 and color at 50. HDMI black level on auto, Dynamic contrast off, Smart LED @High, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Native.
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Hope it helps.
 
Bollocks. It looks awful only when you send RGB limited into TV that expects RGB Full, resulting in washed out image. You have to set these match these manually on TV's. When everything is set right, there is NO DIFFERENE between RGB Full and Limited in general image quality. Black is just as black and white is just as white and same shadow and white details can be seen on both. Limited may be eeny weeny more suspectible to banding since there is a few less steps between absolute black and absolute white involved but otherwise they look the same when signal chain is set up correctly.
Could you please post the process on how to properly set it up on the TV ?
Settings and stuff.
 
Could you please post the process on how to properly set it up on the TV ?
Settings and stuff.

I already posted some pointers few posts ago.

Use Ycbcr444, its the fool proof method and wont cause any issues. Hell, usually TV's process internally in Ycbcr anyway so you dont gain anything by sending it RGB, if you dont convert it to Ycbcr in GPU side the TV does it for you when it receives it. If you are hell bent on RGB, then check out Settings -> Picture -> Expert Settings.There is a HDMI Black Level. There are 3 options in it, Auto, Low and Normal. Auto, as I said before, does not work. Low is for RGB Limited and Normal is for RGB Full. If you send RGB Limited signal from your GPU but TV is set to Normal, you get washed out image. If you send RGB Full but TV is set to Auto or Low, you get super contrasty image that has all black and white details crushed and clipped.


Color Temperature, either Warm 2 or Warm 1. Warm 2 is closest to the reference 6500K temperature, but if its too red for you use Warm 1 instead.

Gamma, either 0 or -1. Up to your taste. Absolutely correct setting can only be determined with calibration device.

Smart Led, High or Low. This controls the local dimming feature. If you think it is too aggressive, try low. I dont recommend Off, even if the TV is inferior edge led local dimmer it is still useful feature in pictures that contain a lot of black areas.

Dont touch anything else. Brightness and Contrast are right as they are (45 and 100 respectively) and White Balance requires a calibration device to adjust. Copying other peoples White Balance settings is useless because every TV is unique and requires their own measurements, even if it is a same model.



I dont know what else there is to say really.
 
So i just got the Flat version (8000) exchanged for the Curved version (8500).

Man, am I glad i did!

Curved is definitely the way to go. I don't know how to explain it but you get that cozy / comfy feeling with curved. On Flat i for some reason just felt uncomfortable inside.
 
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Color Temperature, either Warm 2 or Warm 1. Warm 2 is closest to the reference 6500K temperature, but if its too red for you use Warm 1 instead.
Gamma, either 0 or -1. Up to your taste. Absolutely correct setting can only be determined with calibration device.
Smart Led, High or Low. This controls the local dimming feature. If you think it is too aggressive, try low. I dont recommend Off, even if the TV is inferior edge led local dimmer it is still useful feature in pictures that contain a lot of black areas.
Dont touch anything else. Brightness and Contrast are right as they are (45 and 100 respectively) and White Balance requires a calibration device to adjust. Copying other peoples White Balance settings is useless because every TV is unique and requires their own measurements, even if it is a same model.

Thanks.

Though i'm using Dynamic Contrast on "High" and i like this picture much better (picture is much more vivid / sharp)
Also the color temperature is set to "Normal" (Warm 1 ads too much yellowish tint for my liking)

Is this wrong?
 
Do yourself a favor: don't get caught up in overthinking your TV settings. There are good guidelines, but no absolutes. What appeals to some will never appeal to others. Try some settings for a few days, make some adjustments, give it a few more days, etc. You may find that what you like isn't in accordance with any recommendations.
 
Thanks.

Though i'm using Dynamic Contrast on "High" and i like this picture much better (picture is much more vivid / sharp)
Also the color temperature is set to "Normal" (Warm 1 ads too much yellowish tint for my liking)

Is this wrong?

Normal color temperature in this TV is near 10000K, thats very cold and blue image. The reason why Warm 1 seems yellowish or red at first is because the amount of blue is reduced and it comes as a shock to your eyes that is so used to the blue heavy image. Keep using Warm 1 for a week and then try Normal again. You will probably notice that suddenly people on TV look like they suffer from hypothermia when you go back. And even Warm 1 is too bluish compared to what is accurate and what movies and games are mastered to. Warm 2 is the most accurate but baby steps...

The reason why its called "Normal" is because that is the native TV color temperature and such cold image appear more striking and vivid, easier to sell TV's because of the wow effect it has on shop shelves.

Regarding Dynamic Contrast, I would not use it. It does create more punchier image but its anything but accurate and can lead to clipping of blacks and whites. Smart LED local dimming is the only dynamic contrast you need. Also how are you using Dynamic Contrast on PC mode? It should be greyed out. Or are we talking about movie/game mode?


Do yourself a favor: don't get caught up in overthinking your TV settings. There are good guidelines, but no absolutes. What appeals to some will never appeal to others. Try some settings for a few days, make some adjustments, give it a few more days, etc. You may find that what you like isn't in accordance with any recommendations.


On a contrary, there very much are absolutes if accuracy and objectively good image is your aim. Standards to follow if you want to see the same image the movie makers (or videogame creators) saw when mastering the movie. But if you want to be the artist and reimage the picture to your own tastes, thats fine. I'm not the one to ask for help then though, you have to experiment yourself because I dont know your tastes.
 
StormClaw, what about the input lag with Dynamic contrast on High??
No idea, i haven't tried gaming yet.

Also, i think that without any special equipment i wouldn't be able to tell the difference of ~10ms.

But the Dynamic contrast does look interesting. Is it using panels "cpu" power that can result in input lag increase?
 
So i just got the Flat version (8000) exchanged for the Curved version (8500).

Man, am I glad i did!

Curved is definitely the way to go. I don't know how to explain it but you get that cozy / comfy feeling with curved. On Flat i for some reason just felt uncomfortable inside.
I believe that's called the cool factor, lol. Glad you like it! I would have gotten the curved version but the 2 65" curved KS800's I had suffered form more light bleeding. The 49" was about $100 more than what I paid as well. Got my 49KS8000 for $680.
 
And this happens when you send a RGB Full signal into a TV that expects RGB Limited. Instead of washed out image you get crushed blacks and whites. Change the HDMI Black Level to correct setting and that problem goes away.
Could this settings affects / cause / the blank screen ??
StormClaw, what's your nVidia CP + tv menu settings, now ?
YCbCr444 - limited / HDMI Black Level - Low ?
 
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Could this settings affects / cause / the blank screen ??
StormClaw, what's your nVidia CP + tv menu settings, now ?
YCbCr444 - limited / HDMI Black Level - Low ?

You mean random flashes of black screen? No, thats either a HDMI cable bandwidth issue or there is something wrong with the TV. Maybe slightly loose connection inside or just bad mobo.
 
So, you still recommend YCbCr444, over RGB?
Maybe I should get another hdmi cable, but many of them are " 18 gb/s, hdmi 2.0,etc" certified, but in real, they aren't
 
I only recommend Ycbcr as foolproof method since you dont need to scratch your head with the HDMI black level settings. Its always correct. Otherwise, neither is superior to the other.
 
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Figured out how to get clear/sharp text in Game Mode while having the same image as PC Mode with 4:4:4.
That's not possible.
Text is pretty clear / sharp under Game Mode with 4:4:4 or whatever, but its not as sharp as PC Mode.
 
Maybe I should get another hdmi cable, but many of them are " 18 gb/s, hdmi 2.0,etc" certified, but in real, they aren't

Yeah cables, especially longer length ones, can be a crapshoot. I had to buy a really expensive 8m (need the length to connect my PC in another room) one to get it working properly.

To use game mode with a PC all you have to do is rename the input something other than PC and change the input type to for example "game console". I don't really notice a difference in image quality. PC mode works a bit differently as it has fewer options, more input lag and that weird sharpness control that is off at 50 instead of 0 like in other modes.
 
Blue and red text does look a bit different with Game Mode, compared to PC Mode
And there is nothing we can do, i presume
 
Yeah that is the result of 4:2:2 chroma subsampling. Chroma signal (colors) is rendered in lower resolution so the colored text (or anything with sharp pixel perfect lines) on solid background will look blurrier.
 
I'm confused with 4:4:2 / 4:4:4 chroma subsampling
Under nVidia CP i already selected YCbCr444. So, in this case, shouldn't the display show 4:4:4 instead of 4:4:2 ?
MaZa, please tell me why is the 10 Point option, greyed out ? Is limited by the GPU ?
Thank you
 
Its the TV that drops down to 4:2:2. I think that is where the 10ms lag difference between game mode and PC mode comes in, Game mode processes internally a lower quality picture.

10 bit is available only with 4K 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 OR if you use a lower resolution. It is a HDMI 2.0 bandwidth limitation, it maxes out on 4K 4:4:4 8-bit.
 
What about some software ( or whatever ) for keeping red and blue text clear / sharp as under PC Mode, when Game Mode is enabled ?
 
Its not a software issue, its hardware. Your gpu may be sending a full 4:4:4 but the TV itself downsamples the chroma signal down to 4:2:2. I dont know what you could do on software side to help it.
 
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