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400 bucks? What went wrong?

GaleForce

GaleForce

Gawd
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
761
Alright, I need some help tweaking this list, as I am spending WAY too much for a watercooling setup. First thing I can get rid of is the 6800 cooler and get a basic one, but then of course I need ramsinks and stuff, so I'll leave it on my starting list. Just a note, I want a high performance water cooling setup. If I deicde on a lower performance one I'm going to stick with the reserator.

RadBox Housing - www.swiftnet.com - 15 (want this to mount on back)
6800 Cooler - www.dangerden.com - 125
TDX 64 Cooler - www.dangerden.com - 50
DD12V-D4 Pump - www.dangerden.com - 75
AS5 - www.dangerden.com - 8
Radiator w/ Shroud - www.dtekcustoms.com - 45
120mm Fan - www.dtekcustoms.com - 12
10 Feet ClearFlex - www.dangerden.com - 10
10 Clamps - www.dangerden.com - 8
Dual 3.5 Res - www.frozencpu.com - 30
HydrX - www.frozencpu.com - 10
Green UV Dye - www.frozencpu.com - 10

OMFG TOTAL: 400?!
 
Seems like the 6800 cooler is the big ticket item....but would be nice to have.
 
that res is too small for that pump.

you can go with a 120v pump and get a relay for cheaper

get your clamps from home depot or lowes for cheaper

8 bucks for as5?

i dunno what hydrx is. i'm guessing it's an additive. you don't need it.

the only thing really killing you is the 6800 block, although that can't be helped.
 
Its too small? Why is that? I thought I could just use a T-line if I wanted to and thats no res.
 
that pump is so powerful that the water will cavitate in such a small res. instead of removing air from the loop you'll be adding it. i had a similar experience with that exact same pump. don't forget that bay reservoirs are known to leak if you fiddle with them too much. i'd just go with the t-line unless you can fit a bigger res into your case. since you're planning on mounting the rad externally i'm guessing you can't.
 
You are going to pay another 60+ bucks in shipping when buying from so many different places...... Find one place to buy everything and try to save on the shipping.
 
If you don't want it to cost so bloody much, the only option is to modify some parts yourself. Going ALL storebought always costs a ton of money. A partially self-made setup will work and look just as good in the end with a little extra work on your part.

- Get a pond pump. Danner Mag 3 ("Pondmaster" series at Petsmart) ~$50
I've got a danner mag 2, but the 3 is much better.
- Get a swiftech MCW50 + 6800kit for $49 total
My 6800GT running at 440mhz core runs 41c idle
- Ditch the Hydrx and the Dye
ten bucks a pop for each of those? HAH!
- Go to a local auto parts store and get a heatercore for ~$17-20
It's cheaper and you get a bigger radiator that will perform just as well or better.

Savings, In order:
minus $25
minus $75
minus $20
minus $25

You're now down to $255. $225 if you ditch that bay res.

You're welcome :p
 
Here's a kit from DD:
A64 TDX
bonnevill heatercore
dd12 pump
10ft clearflex
as5
2x 120mm fans

$206. Throw in the 6800 block and you're up to 331. If you go with the Hydor L35 pump it's $306.05. I hope this helps you some.
 
Hydrx seems a bit much, not sure if its a larger size.
Froogle: http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=hydrx&scoring=p

And Hydrx is already uv green, so why do you need uv dye?

And yes, the 6800 cooler is a bit much, you could make due with a swiftech mcw50 and an adapter.

The 120mm fan can be bought from 2fresh for cheaper I believe in fs/ft

You may want to get a different res. (could be had for same price if not less)
 
I dont have the tools to modify a heatcore with barbs. In the end that would end up costing just as much. Thanks for the tips so far though. Won't I have to modify the pump with barbs too?
 
Still considering ditching that 3.5 bay as you guys say its a bad idea. Can you explain why it won't work?
 
bellevegasj said:
vert, what kind of 6800 heat sinks do you use?
Click to expand...

These 'uns : http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/ram-19.html
They're about twice the surface area of the ram, and quite heavy.
Attached using Arctic Silver Epoxy. Havn't tried taking my RAM higher yet, it was at 1100mhz with the stock ram cooler.

Hopefully not considered a threadjack. :eek: Useful if you don't opt for the dden 6800 cooler.
 
GaleForce said:
Still considering ditching that 3.5 bay as you guys say its a bad idea. Can you explain why it won't work?
Click to expand...

It'll work, just not with the ultra powerful pump you have in your first post.
That pump will blast so much water through into the res, that it'll create, well....... think of it this way, your res will look like a jacuzzi with the water jets turned up full bore. :)
Lots of air entering the water..

Personally, I don't trust plexi bayres's - Heard of too many cracking & leaking problems.
 
I use a huge five gallon gas can for a res. I have several huge, old, aluminum heatsinks on it's side for heat dissipation. But that's a pretty unusual setup.

If I didn't have the gas can, I'd go with an exterior clear tube type res that attaches to the back of your case. Since you're having your rad outside the case anyway, that might make sense.

Something like this

http://www.bestbyte.net/Product.cfm?ProductID=1312&CategoryID=18&Keyword=

or this (meh small fittings, that could be fixed though..)

http://www.highspeedpc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=HSPC&Category_Code=Tank4
 
Yeah but those tubes are pretty small too, which would cause that air problem that everyone is mentioning.
 
You could always go the custom route with some large bore PVC and a couple hose barbs. That plus some pvc sealant and a drill, and you're good to go. Wouldn't be able to see through it though. However easily paintable.
 
I think I'll just go for the T-Line. I would have liked the res though. I'm still considering the bay res.
 
v3rt1g0 said:
You could always go the custom route with some large bore PVC and a couple hose barbs. That plus some pvc sealant and a drill, and you're good to go. Wouldn't be able to see through it though. However easily paintable.
Click to expand...

That's always a good option for a cheap reservoir... Easy to make too. And won't have any problems with leaking like acrylic res's just as long as you get a good seal around the barbs.
 
GaleForce said:
Alright, I need some help tweaking this list, as I am spending WAY too much for a watercooling setup. First thing I can get rid of is the 6800 cooler and get a basic one, but then of course I need ramsinks and stuff, so I'll leave it on my starting list. Just a note, I want a high performance water cooling setup. If I deicde on a lower performance one I'm going to stick with the reserator.

RadBox Housing - www.swiftnet.com - 15 (want this to mount on back)
6800 Cooler - www.dangerden.com - 125
TDX 64 Cooler - www.dangerden.com - 50
DD12V-D4 Pump - www.dangerden.com - 75
AS5 - www.dangerden.com - 8
Radiator w/ Shroud - www.dtekcustoms.com - 45
120mm Fan - www.dtekcustoms.com - 12
10 Feet ClearFlex - www.dangerden.com - 10
10 Clamps - www.dangerden.com - 8
Dual 3.5 Res - www.frozencpu.com - 30
HydrX - www.frozencpu.com - 10
Green UV Dye - www.frozencpu.com - 10

OMFG TOTAL: 400?!
Click to expand...

-6800 cooler, waster of money, get the swiftech blcok (people seem to forget its DDR3, mine runs 1100 with not ram sinks)
-TDX 64 block, get the swiftech 6002 to match the swiftech GPU block (i think it 10 buck cheaper)
-Id get a pond pump if i were you, like a danner mag3 or 5, both are under 75
-Go to autozone and get a 20 dollar Heater core, and make a shroud...(if homebrew skillz is not your thing than there nothign you can do about this cost)
-Get your fan at svc there like 5 bucks for a good one...
-Use a yellow highlighter for die it works great glows green (open it a squeze it in)
-Bay res? a res is a pointless waste of space and time, its dosnt help preformence one bit, unless you have a like a 5 gallon res....
-Hydrx, YOU DONT NEED IT
-10 feet of clear flex, wile it allways nice to have extra, 6 feet will do just fine.
-10 clamps? GO TO HOME DEPOT!

Water cooling is best done homebrew style.... with your orignal setup you might ass well let them build it for you....
 
I(illa Bee said:
Bay res? a res is a pointless waste of space and time, its dosnt help preformence one bit, unless you have a like a 5 gallon res....
-Hydrx, YOU DONT NEED IT
Click to expand...

A bay res isnt pointless, unless you want air in your line an a constant sloshing sound from your system.

He does need some sort of additive, corrosion will damage his parts and biological growths will kill his water.
 
I dont have the tools to modify a heatcore with barbs. In the end that would end up costing just as much. Thanks for the tips so far though. Won't I have to modify the pump with barbs too?
Click to expand...

The tubes on the boneville heatercore can be shortened with a $3 hacksaw, and don't need barbs if you use 1/2 inch tubing.
 
whitewale said:
The tubes on the boneville heatercore can be shortened with a $3 hacksaw, and don't need barbs if you use 1/2 inch tubing.
Click to expand...
This is true, but if you use vinyl you'll have to use boiling water to get it soft enough to fit over the boneville pipes since they are 5/8" OD.
 
I got the Swifty block for my 6800, I don't think you need RAMsinks if you're not overlcocking. But hey, I'm still [H]Lite ;D
 
thewhiteguy said:
This is true, but if you use vinyl you'll have to use boiling water to get it soft enough to fit over the boneville pipes since they are 5/8" OD.
Click to expand...

Or you can go to lowe's and get 2 $1 barbs...and get a solder gun and put those barbs on in like 10 minutes... It's pretty easy and cheap as long as you have access to a solder gun ...
 
stumpy said:
Or you can go to lowe's and get 2 $1 barbs...and get a solder gun and put those barbs on in like 10 minutes... It's pretty easy and cheap as long as you have access to a solder gun ...
Click to expand...
That's a big job for a solder gun. I'd be concern with having a cold joint there that might break lose and leak in the future. If you're going to solder it on there, you should buy a cheap Bernz-o-matic (or however it's spelled) propane torch and do it right.
 
My 2 cents,

PolarFlo TT CPU/GPU/CS water block set 129.00
DTek C-Systems CSP-X2 Pump set 83.99
DTek Pro 120 Heatercore/Shroud combo 44.99
DTek Double 5.25" Bay Reservoir 29.99

Total 287.97

Plus Hose, additives, a fan...

The TT blocs are top notch, the Heatercore is basically a premodded Auto core, the pumps are tiny and come with a side by side rubber mounting system that gives you great flexibility in design. You can go with parrallel loops for mega flow rate or inline for mega head. The reservoir is a touchy subject, I like them, alot of ppl don't. At any rate it shouldn't be much over 300 complete and I think its a dandy set up, I plan to get it and I've done a lot of shopping. Only 2 vendors so less shipping costs. Anyone got a problem with it? I'd like to hear, I'm open to criticism.
 
I can't do a dual 5.25 bay setup because all my bays are taken up. Only have internal 3.5s left.
 
astolpho said:
Anyone got a problem with it? I'd like to hear, I'm open to criticism.
Click to expand...
A single MCP650 pump would be better (and cheaper) than two of the C systems ones, plus you won't need an adapter to hook it up to a molex connector (who would actually dare run those pumps off fan headers?).
 
thewhiteguy said:
That's a big job for a solder gun. I'd be concern with having a cold joint there that might break lose and leak in the future. If you're going to solder it on there, you should buy a cheap Bernz-o-matic (or however it's spelled) propane torch and do it right.
Click to expand...

at that point you're better off getting one premodded.

of course, i did it that way (but with a chevette heatercore) since I was in it for the fun of doing it. i learned how to solder copper pipe and have (well, had) the blister to prove it.
 
You may be right about that....

MCP-650 10.3 Ft Head and ~317 GPH 79.95

CSP-X2 Parrallel 6.5 Ft Head and ~160 GPH 83.99
CSP-X2 Series 12.3 Ft Head and ~ 120 GPH

Still you have to weigh the potential benefits of running separate loops with one dedicated to the Proc and one to the GPU and Chipset with the C-Systems. The C-systems pumps draw 3 - 6 watts each which is considerably more than your typical 120mm fan I think but substantially lower than the 24 watts that the MCP-650 draws.
 
I recommend you ditch the 6800 block and use the Swiftech MCW50 with 6800 adapter kit for the GPU core .. then attach good copper ramsinks and put a slow fancard in the slow under it to cool the RAM. That will give you overclocking headroom.
 
i would go with the 650, i have one and i recomend it, that thing is powerfull, and silent enough.

if i was going with a ac pump, i would leave it on all the time and forget the relay, you can get a via 1300 for really cheap.

truly your setup is fine, but you know that geforce block is really expensive for what in my opinion would be of negible positive effects at the expense of flow, and the cash that it will cost you, thats just my personal opinion though.
also compatibility of the polar flo cpu blocks, they dont fit the abit ic7 max3 well, as seen in the review in here in hardocp, i personally run there gpu water block, and love it

dicth the geforce block get something cheaper, and in my opinion better.
dicth the res, get a tline with one of those new danger den caps, or whatever they are called.
get better fans some panaflos, or sanyo denkis, and if you have the space get creative and get one of 2fresh rads. they are ready to go.hydrix its good, it has serve me well, but i only pay 3.25 for it on sidewinders computer. i usually buy it when i am buying something else as not to incur in shipping charges since i am in puerto rico
 
Lord of Shadows said:
A bay res isnt pointless, unless you want air in your line an a constant sloshing sound from your system.

He does need some sort of additive, corrosion will damage his parts and biological growths will kill his water.
Click to expand...

I have filled and refilled my old loops many time before with no RES. NO AIR once so ever, no "Sloshing" in fact a res makes more noise than a sealed loop. It’s a simple task of filling the system under water.... I eventually used a take just because I could, and it looked cool, but it made no difference ...as stated before i fill the loop in a bucket of distilled water, , completely under water, so there is no air in the loop, (other than the 0 in H20

The longest i have let a system go sealed is 7 months. It was a just distilled water, and some wetter water additive. No corrosion, some color changing in side the block, but it rubbed off....the trick to stopping corrosion is not to mix metals. The 7 mouth old water was still pretty clean and temps were not different from the day I set it up.

Call me old school, but I don’t buy into the premade water cooling crap out there, its just not necessary, stick to the basic. Block, heater core, dis. H20,
 
I(illa Bee said:
The longest i have let a system go sealed is 7 months. It was a just distilled water, and some wetter water additive. No corrosion, some color changing in side the block, but it rubbed off....the trick to stopping corrosion is not to mix metals
Click to expand...

Water wetter is an additive =)

Anyway, with the mcw50 I believe it has a copper plate with aluminum housing, so you will need an additive to save your gpu block.

The reservoir isnt necessarily needed, but for most its desired.
 
Lord of Shadows said:
Anyway, with the mcw50 I believe it has a copper plate with aluminum housing, so you will need an additive to save your gpu block.
Click to expand...

It's anodized though. Doesn't that make a big difference?
 
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