3D printer silliness

honegod

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since hardly any sporty stuff is made for my Yaris, printing what I want seems to be my option.
I need a printer for that.
"as good as a Prusa" being high praise, a Prusa i3 MK3S looks to be the ticket.

where do I buy one from ?
czechloslovokia ?
 

modi123

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modi123

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I'll be. I was certain they had a US distribution center.

Their orders are pretty lengthy as well.. 7ish weeks out from even shipping.
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article...40.1921575268.1594149981-513316073.1594149981

Though, in theory, fast ones the thing heads out.
Choose your delivery method

Fedex MK3 Fixed USA
2-3 days, (special discount for MK3S/MINI kit only)
$50.32

DHL Express worldwide
DHL Express worldwide, 2-3 days (USA), 3-5 days (rest of the world)
$57.41

UPS Expedited USA
UPS Expedited, 3-5 days
$78.43

UPS Express Saver USA
UPS Express Saver, 2-3 days
$113.65
Pretty sure they are the only suppliers of their printers. Unless you hit up fleabay or FB marketplace to find a second hand one.
 

honegod

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I created an account, made out an order, placed the order.
prusa didn't like my mastercard {personcard ?}.
so I emailed them.
3D printing IS an inherently complex endevour.
 

Baenwort

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After traveling is OKed I'd suggest you stop by the SeeMeCNC factory there in Indiana. They manufactur the best Delta style printers in the world.

A Prusa is what is commonly called a bed slider or Cartesian style printer.

https://www.seemecnc.com/

They also make one of the largest printers for sale in their Part Daddy design.

if you want to see printer silliness. :)
 

honegod

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since I want to print stuff for my car I need to consider heat resistant plastics, which want a consistant high temperature print environment.
so enclosure design begins to interest me.
the ikea lack table design looks popular but has shortcomings that trouble me.
it's flammable, wood and plastic.
borosilicat glass door, aluminium extrusion frame, sounds better to me.
the prusa Bear frame kit appeals to me.
I just started to think about how the bear frame could easily bolt to a enclosure frame.
a well filtered recirculation fan, that is rated for 200c+ ambient, being nessisary for a dust free printing environment, shall not be infringed
copper heatspreader between the heated bed and the flexy print surface to reduce temperature gradients across the first layers contact area.
with a brutally rigid frame there might be a benefit of rubber mounting a massy slab of something, concrete, to damp vibrations.
if the frame assembly doesn't ring like a well tuned katana it is not done right.
 

Nobu

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Copper moves heat quickly, but that also means it cools quickly (=hotspots). It would be good for spreading the heat out, but for even and consistent heat you'd want a good insulator (like glass, ceramic, or black iron).
 

honegod

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I do not understand where the heat energy is going, where is the cooling coming from ?
I see 2 fans on the print head, one for the cold end of the tip, the other for the part being printed, neither should mess with the bed much.
I figure a chunk of the enclosure function is to keep random air currents at bay.
the spring steel print surface plate would act as an insulator to slow heat loss from the copper layer.
 

Tim_axe

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As far as enclosures, since some of the extruder fan parts and axis motor holders and things are 3d printed it is kind of important to not add a heater. For the most part the PSU and other electronics will be fine in a basic enclosure which might keep the inside air around 35°C or so...but if the internal temperatures are really warm it's probably a good idea to at least pull the PSU outside of it. Prusa mentions temperatures 40° to 50°C shorten the life of the PSU. For the older Prusa printers you may need to print a reinforcing bracket to mount in place of the PSU since it adds some support on the older printers.
I wouldn't worry too much about a temperature gradient between the heater board through to the spring steel bed itself - it heats to pretty quick and then the printer does a quick hunt/dance to locate the bed height, and this probably lets it equalize before printing starts. And prior to the spring steel sheet...the Prusa i3 MK2S and prior bed heaters used to have the PEI directly on the PC Board heater so there were areas with the PEI only over screw heads and not heater material - as far as I know there were no problems from that, and I didn't notice it. On that old heat bed it was possible to get gradients from the hot end placing the plastic onto the heated bed where you could trip an over-temperature error for the bed if you were extruding over the temperature sensor in the bed - I haven't had that in the i3 MK 2.5 spring steel bed. In the i3 MK2.5 / i3 MK3 (and S models) you do need access to the heater layer itself for axis calibration, and then the spring steel sheet goes on for the quick hunt of bed height prior to printing. Also a lot of slicer software will adjust bed temperatures for the first layer - e.g. some of my ABS profiles have first layer at 100°C then it bumps up to 110°C for the rest of the print. Reaching 110°C sometimes needs an enclosure on my i3 MK2.5.


I had not heard of the bear frame kits, but I'm not liking the center upright area being joined together with several pieces...I'm kind of a fan of the Prusa being a single sheet that has threaded holes and notches in all the right places. My general opinion is you don't really want the parts that define how your axes intersect to be too freely adjustable, and extrusions with side plates and other hardware that mounts anywhere along that rail is in that territory. Some issues can probably be calibrated out fine with the Prusa firmware (in the bear frame kit FAQs it mentions an extruder height difference that calls for using older or 3rd party firmware) but I think you might have to be prepared to spend time fine tuning things with a good supply of measuring tools if say the Z axis (upright frame) pieces end up skewed (vs the relatively flat Prusa plate) and also not perpendicular to the build plate. I think it would be helpful to get used to the stock printer first, especially since it looks like you'd have to do the stock build first to be able to print the parts for the bear frame kit.
 

honegod

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Image4.jpg


I took this snapshot, cropped it, and came here to do a post on how I would like a third option of high temperature printed parts, and read your post.

things are 3d printed it is kind of important to not add a heater
bootstrap problem, eh ?
that is what capitalism is FOR.

fine tuning things with a good supply of measuring tools
yes.
I watched a Bear build video, he used a tape measure to align things.
it hurt my soul.
I am looking forward to using heated micrometers, calibrated with heated standards, to align the heated assembly to get it to work right at temperature.
(in a previous incarnation I used that technique to finish hone a propeller shaft bushing for an airctaft carrier to size and shape, so I know where to find BIG micrometers.)

the heatspreader thing ocurred to me upon seeing Flir pictures of blotchy heated beds.

i saw a video about cable drive remote motoring of non Bowden filiment feed head.
that kind of thing would get all the stepper motors out of the heat zone.
I already have some high temperature silicon wires that I am looking to swap for the stock stuff, particularly the wires that have to move, which should also, slightly, reduce drag on the steppers.
 

Tim_axe

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I took this snapshot, cropped it, and came here to do a post on how I would like a third option of high temperature printed parts, and read your post.
That's some timing on the screen shot, I didn't see that option on the first site I pulled up (all3dmakers).

Either way it looks like you would get the fun of assembling the printer, even if it is one time with all of the pre-printed upgrade bits, or twice if you do the stock build and decide to go through with the modification. And since it doesn't appear to touch the extruder, you still get some of the fun of staring at all of the plastic, metal, and wire bits and eating gummy bears. The hot end is really interesting in how the plastic printed parts can be designed to attach everything together, so it might help give you ideas when you're designing parts.

it hurt my soul.
I'm basically with you. I was thinking this should at least have 1-2-3 blocks or a toolmaker square and clamps to try to hold pieces...and a quick look at the assembly instructions seems to show words like "machinist precision square" etc.

the heatspreader thing ocurred to me upon seeing Flir pictures of blotchy heated beds.
I had to go look up some of the FLIR/thermal video reviews of printer heat beds after that. The screws show up quite cold on initial heat on the bed without sheet, but its averaged out ok with sheet in place. Before some of the firmware safety timers were added, there were videos of people using the heat bed as a Sous-Vide / water warmer / etc. I guess you have to do whatever gets the video clicks.


At some point you'll have to jump into the software side of 3d printing to be able to get parts out, like the slicer that takes the model and uses filament profiles to generate the G code that runs the machine. Or the CAD side where you'll do the measuring and modeling to make parts that fit.
  • I'm using the Prusa Slicer (used to be called Slic3r PE among others) https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/prusaslicer_204
  • For design I generally use FreeCAD, though it takes some getting used to vs 1st party commercial CAD software https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Download
    • To get the exported STL file to have good resolution there are some simple hings to configure...but the software hides the panel with needed options until you're in the correct module...

Anyways happy prototyping. If your parts in the easily attainable ABS and/or PETG/PET+ materials work out but you find you do need better materials, you can always look into some of the online 3d print services that use the industrial machines to plop out Ultem/PEI parts. But you probably don't need to do much special to just get setup to print stuff.
  • For my boat trailer I've had good luck with ABS so far, and have abused PVC pipe cleaner / PVC pipe cement to glue my ABS parts to PVC pipe.
  • On the boat I use some PET+ (discontinued) to have some nubs screwed to the deck for aligning a portable plastic gas tank so it doesn't slide around.
  • I have a few simple plastic copies of segments of stupid things to help fit check other parts I'm designing so I can stay inside and not have to find the thing just to check parts on it.
  • For indoors stuff I've had surprisingly good luck with PLA for making handles for dressers when I find the hole spacing is a goofy inch number that makes sense in mm, but isn't carried in stores
 

honegod

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online 3d print services that use the industrial machines to plop out Ultem/PEI parts
wonderful.
I can keep my machine closer to stock, prototype what I want in cheap easy PLA, and send the finished specs off to the folks with the more expensive machinery.

random thoughts

sealed tub with dehydrator packets, bowden to mmu, dust wipers
hard mount frame to concrete mass block
bed level with bubble level
copper plate adds moving mass
ups connection, auto shutdown
titanium for thermal expansion minimization, less moving mass.
Aluminum Alloy 6061 23.6
Titanium Alloy Ti - 5Al 9.4


triangulation
bore sights for belt alignment
ducts for motor cooling
 
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