3D Print a Reservoir

guitarslingerchris

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So I had a thought for my first "big" project with my 3D printer to be printing a badass reservoir for my next watercooling build. I'm thinking spiral design or some sort but who knows it might be something I can do in vase mode with a stupid amount of volume.

Anyways, I have some basic questions before I start tackling the later ones.

1. How do I go about ensuring a watertight print?

2. How can I either print or attach G1/4 threads to the reservoir safely and securely?

3. Should I print it in PETG or would PLA work? I haven't bothered to look up what coolant would do to the different material types but knowing that the rest of the tubing will be PETG I assume that should be safe but I would have to order that AND learn to print with it. I suppose I would need to order filament regardless because I'm picturing printing this in either white or clear so I can backlight it to show the coolant from within.
 
I would be concerned about this. Try printing something similar now, even a box. Put coolant in it, let it sit for a month.
You must have a very fine nozzle to print those kind of threads...
 
I would be concerned about this. Try printing something similar now, even a box. Put coolant in it, let it sit for a month.
You must have a very fine nozzle to print those kind of threads...
I don't see why a vapor smoothed part that is printed well would have a problem but again that's why I asked the question about it.

I also was guessing I'd be more in for melting and press-fitting a G1/4 bung into the reservoir but like the above I'm asking because I'm sure someone else has done something similar.
 
Printing a reservoir would be risky but could work if done properly. Walls are usually water-tight but bottoms are the most problematic. PET-G is generally more chemical resistant and withstands higher temperatures than PLA. It can't be vapor-smoothed tho. Vapor smoothing PLA is possible but difficult. Better solution would be painting the part with a resin like this one https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/ . Glue G1/4 bungs to the reservoir using high quality epoxy glue.
 
You could do this, it will be a metal/plastic bond, when you are connecting hoses and pulling on things, the forces on that metal will cause gaps between the metal and plastic that could eventually lead to a leak. I would use a contact cement, epoxy or something of that nature on the threads when you put them in to ensure true water tight. I would even print the res without threads where the connector screws in. Let the metal threads of that connector cut into the plastic for a tighter bond, or use a slightly smaller tap first.

edit: Actually, since you cannot really print a complete res with just a top, just print your res bottom and sides, then the top separately and epoxy it. If you print all 6 sides of the res at once, you will end up with support raft in the container and no real way to get it out.
 
Printing a reservoir would be risky but could work if done properly. Walls are usually water-tight but bottoms are the most problematic. PET-G is generally more chemical resistant and withstands higher temperatures than PLA. It can't be vapor-smoothed tho. Vapor smoothing PLA is possible but difficult. Better solution would be painting the part with a resin like this one https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/ . Glue G1/4 bungs to the reservoir using high quality epoxy glue.

I have seen that XTC-3D and am definitely intrigued and plan to try it out.

You could do this, it will be a metal/plastic bond, when you are connecting hoses and pulling on things, the forces on that metal will cause gaps between the metal and plastic that could eventually lead to a leak. I would use a contact cement, epoxy or something of that nature on the threads when you put them in to ensure true water tight. I would even print the res without threads where the connector screws in. Let the metal threads of that connector cut into the plastic for a tighter bond, or use a slightly smaller tap first.

edit: Actually, since you cannot really print a complete res with just a top, just print your res bottom and sides, then the top separately and epoxy it. If you print all 6 sides of the res at once, you will end up with support raft in the container and no real way to get it out.

I have absolutely zero idea what kind of shape/design I'm going to come up with but you bring up a good point to think about.
 
I have seen that XTC-3D and am definitely intrigued and plan to try it out.



I have absolutely zero idea what kind of shape/design I'm going to come up with but you bring up a good point to think about.

Personally, if I was going to go down this route, I would make something cool, like an 8 or 20 sided die, or a Mech Warrior, who's body is the res and the in/out on the rear where you couldn't see them. There are a ton of options. I even like the idea of making a ship/boat as the res. I guess it would just depend on how much work you wanted to put into it hehe.
 
Personally, if I was going to go down this route, I would make something cool, like an 8 or 20 sided die, or a Mech Warrior, who's body is the res and the in/out on the rear where you couldn't see them. There are a ton of options. I even like the idea of making a ship/boat as the res. I guess it would just depend on how much work you wanted to put into it hehe.
Yeah, my plan is to make something somewhat elaborate/complex I just don't know what the theme is. What I do know is that I have a Rampage V Extreme and I'm going to print slot covers to cover up all the red and I think right now the color scheme will be black/silver and teal or aquamarine.
 
I've been able to print 1/4-20 threads quite well with my .4mm nozzle. They are stupid easy to model in Fusion360. I do agree that a test print would be a good idea and let it sit for a month. I suspect that 2-layer wall thickness would be sufficient but I would go with 3 to be on the safe side. PLA would probably be OK but ABS may be better. Nylon is probably overkill but with ABS you could make a much nicer finish through an acetone vapor bath or sanding. Other materials could benefit from a coat of epoxy and fine (3/4oz.) fiberglass. It would smooth and strengthen but would be much more work.

Complex shapes of reservoirs can be easily overcome by making them in pieces. The pieces can be assembled using epoxy or CA glues. The folks over at 3DLabPrint are making some incredible things this way.
 
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