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2011 mITX gaming build log (pic warning)

Ruahrc

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
451
UPS delivered a bunch of boxes today! I'm going to try one of these build log threads because I have found the ones others have put up to be very helpful both in component selection and ideas about the install. Hope it works out

I can't start the build "in earnest" until at least saturday since there is one critical component still enroute (Thermalright AXP-140 cooler). In the meantime though I will be doing what I can and also planning out cable routing in this tiny case.

But to start, the finalized specs:

CPU: i5 2400 Sandy Bridge
Cooler: Thermalright AXP-140 with Noctua 140mm fan
Mobo: Asus P8H67-i deluxe
-swapped out the wifi module for an Intel Centrino 6200 N wifi card so I can use the 5GHz band on my router
RAM: 8GB Corsair 1333MHz SO-DIMM (2x4GB)
GPU: MSI 6950 Power Edition 2GB Twin Frozr III
PSU: Seasonic X650
Case: Lian Li PC-Q08 (Silver)
-Case fans substituted for Noctuas
HDD: Will likely use a 400GB WD 2.5" 5400rpm drive
Optical: external USB Blu-Ray reader + DVDRW (use it with both my mac mini and this PC)
Also bought a new mouse: Razer Mamba 2012

Here's a pic of the goodies that came today. Everything's there except the cooler.
201109280001.jpg


First things first, open the case up! First thing to get removed is the HD cage, with only a single HDD I'll not need any of that! I'm either going to use the 2.5" mounting holes or even do something like suspending it in the 5.25" bay using rubber bands.
201109280005.jpg


I noticed my PC-Q08 is slightly different than what I have seen in previous builds. They have replaced the front USB3.0 cables with a proper mobo header so you can plug it right onto a mobo. No more of that out-the-back of the case nonsense anymore! If you don't have USB3.0 port header, you can use the included adapter cable which I assume connects the ports as USB2.0. If you look at the first pic, you can see on the Lian Li box it says it has updated USB3.0 cabling.
201109280008.jpg


One thing I can do while waiting for the cooler is replace the case fans. Removing the stock 140mm fan:
201109280010.jpg


One thing I didn't know about the 140mm Noctua is that the 120-140mm adapter converters have silicone on one side. Presumably to help increase dampening.
201109280011.jpg


Putting the rubber "pins" on the Q08 sliding fan mount. Is there any other way to install the 120-140mm adapter such that the rubber is facing outwards though? To me it seems it is backwards.
201109280012.jpg


Fan goes on the pins. A nice soft interface!
201109280013.jpg


Replace the dust filter and put the sliding fan mount back into the case, all installed!
201109280014.jpg


For the top fan I also have Noctua, although my initial order of computer parts had a mistake= I originally wanted to buy the NF-P12 not the NF-S12. So I had to order the P12 in a separate purchase and now I at least can compare the two before deciding which to send back. I was worried about the S12 since although it is quieter, I heard it does not have good static pressure, which means the airflow might drop a lot especially considering the perforated fan grill?
201109280015.jpg


Installing the upper 120mm fan using the rubber pins is very difficult. It seems a lot harder to push/pull the pins through the 120mm fan mounting holes than the 140mm fan's adapter rings. Coupled with the added thickness of the black grill and also the tight quarters of the case, it's very difficult to get these rear pins on! Here you can see, the pin is not totally pushed through the fan mount hole. I decided to hold off on the installation of this 120mm fan for now until maybe I can at least decide which one to install, or even just use screws.
201109280018.jpg


I found out you can remove the front port bracket completely! If you're hardcore maybe you can bust this thing open and desolder/shorten the internal USB3.0 cables. They're pretty long and awkward. Those power switch header cables are also egregiously long too- I think I might try shortening them- shouldn't be too difficult to do with a little solder.
201109280019.jpg


Next I decided to test fit the PSU, so I can see what kind of cable routing I'm going to need. I've really thought about shortening my PSU cables but am a little scared by the enormity of the job. Does someone know a source where I can buy a short modular PSU Cable kit somewhere? Mmmm velvet :)
201109280020.jpg


I pulled out and hooked up the cable leads I am pretty sure I'll need. That's a lotta cable
201109280021.jpg


In the case- yep that's a lotta cable.
201109280024.jpg


I read someone else had this same problem- the hole for the PSU on the back of the case is extremely tight. It scuffs up the PSU as it slides in and out. In fact the fit is so tight the stickers on the PSU housing actually interfere with smooth oepration. You can see where the sticker actually caught on the edge and damaged the finish :mad:. I might try to find some sandpaper and just sand the hole a little bit maybe I can get it a hair wider and then maybe it won't damage it further.
201109280025.jpg


Last thing I did so far was to swap out the mini-PCIe wifi card on the mobo for the Intel one. Here's the mobo
201109280027.jpg


Installing the new card
201109280028.jpg


That's it for now- I'm going to update this as I go along. Hope it helps people out there working on or speccing out their own builds.

09-30 update:
Did some test fitting and experimenting with cable runs. Seriously can't wait until I get my cooler so I can actually install parts for real :) I found a pretty good arrangement for installing the USB3, SATA, and front chassis fan power cables by running them up in a gap at the top of the 5.25" bay.
201109300009.jpg


Put on the front panel (power, reset, etc) connectors. I see their reasoning for putting in long cables now. If you remove the mobo panel you want to have some slack there so you can pull the board out. I am thinking of just laying in some kind of loop like this. You can also see the front audio connection sneaking in under the mobo and popping out just under the video card to connect to the mobo header. I also like how the mobo and GPU PCB colors match :) I didn't really plan that!
201109300010.jpg


Video card fits just fine! Plenty of clearance. But I expected no less since the card is only about 10.5" long and there is 12" of room. I do notice some "sag" due to the high weight of the cooler, I am thinking to maybe cut a piece of a large eraser or something and sitting it under where the 2 PCI-E power connections are, in order to support the board up. An eraser can be cut to size, and is rubber for some damping.
201109300012.jpg


I can see where some of these cables/connections are going to be very tricky to install once the CPU cooler is in place. Judging by mousemagician's pics the cooler basically covers the entire area of the mobo!

10/1/11 update:
Did a little more work on cable routing. I have a "full install" now minus the CPU and heatsink which should come tomorrow (or technically later today).

Also got my HDD installed. Here I am prying it out of its previous home:
201109300016.jpg


I was going to mount it in the bottom of the 5.25" bay using the provided holes, but since it is a mechanical HD I wanted to try a little bit of vibration isolation. I took 2 of the rubber donuts from the HD cage and split them in half (otherwise they were too thick) and put them between the HD and the bottom of the bay.
201109300018.jpg


It's not perfect mounting since there is still a screw going inside the donut connecting the HD to the chassis but I think it helps some? Any other ideas on vibration-isolating the HDD?
201109300019.jpg


Edge-on view showing the gap. Also nice because then there is no risk of shorting between the bottom PCB of the hard drive and the metal chassis
201109300020.jpg


Hooked it up to a USB bridge to see if I could test the vibration/noise. You can definitely feel some but I dunno maybe better than clamping it down right on the metal? Yes I did put it in "backwards" on purpose (connections facing the front of the case) because it was easier/a little cleaner to have them facing that way instead of coming out on the inside edge of the drive bay where it would probably interfere with cables or the CPU cooler.
201109300021.jpg


I put the rest of the components in as well as the wires and the PSU. It looks a bit messy (you'll see in later pics) but the airflow path is clear from the front fan through the back
201110010013.jpg


Here you can see everything installed. I'm satisfied with the cable layout- I don't think I'm going to bother with shortening or sleeving the cables right now since they are arranged in a fashion that doesn't inhibit airflow, and since my case has no window there's little point...? :)
201110010021.jpg


Looking in the top exhaust- plenty of room inside for an incoming huge cooler.
201110010025.jpg


Side view of everything installed. I'm gonna have to make a 3-pin Y-adapter for the 2 case fans since the ASUS mobo only has one chassis fan header. And if I use a molex connection that means I'm gonna have to add one entire extra modular cable on the PSU just to get some molex power. I'll solder up a Y-adapter I think instead :). Here you can also see an eraser sitting next to the GPU- I'm going to cut a block from it at the right size to support the GPU on that far end where it sags. The PCI-E power cables actually help support the card somewhat too but I want to minimize stress on the part.
201110010032.jpg


That's it for now, all that's left really is to install the CPU and cooler, then get to installing windows!

10/2/11 Update

It's complete!

Here is what came in the mail yesterday: (Also in the box but not pictured is a tube of IC Diamond thermal paste)
201110010074.jpg


Cooler is huge!
201110010077.jpg


Cooler installed- it basically covers the entire mobo :). I didn't take many pictures of the installation process since I had to concentrate and not screw it up but I will say that the process of installing a CPU cooler has really come a long ways with regard to getting a consistent and high-pressure contact between the CPU and the cooler. I remember the old days of Athlon 64, etc. where installing coolers on bare cores was a real danger!
201110010085.jpg


After testing the fans out for noise I decided that the 2 Noctua chassis fans will use the blue ultra low noise adapters. Here I am splicing them together into a Y-splitter so I can power them both off of the single chassis fan header on the mobo. For the CPU fan I decided to use the black "low noise" adapter.
201110010086.jpg


A quick bit of solder and they're fused together
201110010088.jpg


All done!
201110010089.jpg


I solved my "install problem" (pulling the rubber pins through the fan holes) by using some longnose pliers.
201110010090.jpg


Mobo now installed. Pro tip- don't forget to install the 4-pin AUX power connector before mounting the mobo! I forgot and didn't realize it until much later, I had to delicately finnagle the 4-pin AUX power cable in under the cooler- it was very tough due to not being able to see hardly at all and with a very tight working space.
201110010092.jpg


Installing the GPU... SFF builder's worst nightmare- dropped screw :(. Fortunately it came out easily by flipping the case over
201110010095.jpg


There was very little clearance between one of the solder "points" on the GPU and one of the heatsink heatpipes. I didn't want to risk it so I slipped a small piece of paper in between to prevent any electrical contact. The clearance between the GPU and those heatpipes is very narrow!
201110010097.jpg


201110010098.jpg


All the components are installed!
201110010101.jpg


Compared to my old PC, a Shuttle XPC, even this mITX case is pretty big- but compared to most PCs both are tiny! Incidentally I opened up the XPC so I could piggyback on the power supply while testing the fans for noise and airflow- I forgot how tightly arranged everything in there was! A big salute to my old PC, it served me well. Actually pulling it out of the desk and dusting it off I recall how much I liked the shuttle case, and how much I liked that PC. I feel a little sad to cast it aside so easily for new hardware...
201110010104.jpg


As this completes the build, I will post my ongoing comments/observations/issues in the thread and not compile all of it in the first post. Thanks for following along!
 
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looking good so far!

Definitely agreed about the PSU and the PSU bracket. I was not happy when I saw how scratched up my PSU was :mad:

I'm sure I already read it somewhere but what made you decide on the Q08 again especially when you're only using 1 HD?
 
Basically I never found a "shoebox" style case I liked aesthetically, and also I didn't mind a little larger case in exchange for having a lot more room inside for airflow, bigger quieter fans, full-size ATX PSU, etc. My current windows PC is a Shuttle and while the littler size is great, I wanted to try something a little bigger for ease of expansion/interior space.

I was thinking about the newer PC-Q25 because I don't intend to install an internal optical reader but you cannot remove the HD cage in that one without busting rivets and heavy modding, so I decided to stick with the Q08.
 
Basically I never found a "shoebox" style case I liked aesthetically, and also I didn't mind a little larger case in exchange for having a lot more room inside for airflow, bigger quieter fans, full-size ATX PSU, etc. My current windows PC is a Shuttle and while the littler size is great, I wanted to try something a little bigger for ease of expansion/interior space.

I was thinking about the newer PC-Q25 because I don't intend to install an internal optical reader but you cannot remove the HD cage in that one without busting rivets and heavy modding, so I decided to stick with the Q08.

That's true, I'm not a fan of most of the shoebox style cases. My brother's current computer case is SG05 which I thought would be better than the Q11 (was his case before I sold it which I regret doing now) but alas I'm not much of a fan of the SG05 anymore.

My current pc that I have yet to start building even though I have the parts is with the M350 case and I have two leftover 2 TB 3.5" HDDs which would've fit into the Q11 easily but not the SG05 unless I mod it. Now I'm tinkering with the idea of giving my brother the M350 and trying to mod the SG05 to fit 2-3 3.5" HDDs but I'm not sure since I'm not much of a modder and I prefer quieter computers. I had the Q08 before the Q11 and the front fan which I replaced with a quieter fan was still too loud for me :X and now I have two 140mm fans going to waste haha
 
So I put up a quick update. Is there any way for me to also edit the title of the thread in the forum so that people can see when there are updates? I edited the title of the thread in the post but it seems to have just edited the small title subheading at the top of the post.

I'm trying to consolidate all the "log entries" at the top in the OP so it's easier to see as a whole. Should I just update by making new posts/replies to this thread instead?

Ruahrc
 
So I put up a quick update. Is there any way for me to also edit the title of the thread in the forum so that people can see when there are updates? I edited the title of the thread in the post but it seems to have just edited the small title subheading at the top of the post.

I'm trying to consolidate all the "log entries" at the top in the OP so it's easier to see as a whole. Should I just update by making new posts/replies to this thread instead?

Ruahrc
You don't need to write the updates on the title. Your thread just will go on top of the list whenever a new post is added.
Anyways, if you are trying to let us to understand if the new post is an "update" of your built, I suppose there is no chance.
Interesting mini-monster.:)
Looking forward for new pics.:p
Curious to see how you will manage the wires of the PSU... (it will be tough):eek:
 
10/2/11 update bump. It's all done, and running!

My initial impression after initial boot- it's SO QUIET! I love it. All you can hear is a very faint whoosh of air when the computer is on. It's way better than my old XPC, which itself was fairly quiet too. My concerns about noise from the mechanical HD are totally unnecessary- I can't hear any HD whine, and can only barely hear the clicking of data access if I really listen for it. Sure the 5400rpm drive isn't the fastest but it gets the job done. Maybe someday I will upgrade it to a faster model. Under load the GPU fan is audible but I can keep it pretty low using MSI Afterburner and it's not bad, especially since there is usually sound when I game.

So far I am setting up and installing the software. It's pretty easy on a gaming PC:
1) Install Windows
2) Install Drivers
3) Install Steam
4) Done! :)

But I have to way, installing windows is a terrible experience. First since it was a fresh build but apparently my Win7 key is an upgrade (academic version), I installed the whole OS, then was unable to enter the CD-key! I had to pull out my goold old XP install disc, install then, THEN install Win7. They could have at least told me the first time around that my key wasn't going to work!

Then, I had to install literally 120+ updates to windows. I mean come on, can't make a cumulative patch? I installed about 100 updates and THEN windows told me to update to SP1. Can't roll all of that into the SP1 update?

Anyway, did some temperature testing of my machine as well. I had furmark running as well as 4 threads of Prime95 and the max temps I am seeing are about 65C on the CPU and 75C on the GPU. I have the GPU fan throttled back quite a bit for noise hence the higher temp. But for the CPU I am happy with the temps given the aggressive low noise fan settings I selected. At idle the CPU is only about 30-35C, GPU about the same. I tested out a couple games briefly and the temps do not get anywhere near as high as the "stress test" conditions, maybe only 50-55C on the CPU and 70C on the GPU. I'm very happy with the AXP-140 cooler performance!

And yeah, everything I've tried so far runs awesome on maximum settings it's so sweet! Tomorrow I will get my new monitor as well the Dell U2312HM.

There are just two outstanding issues:

1) I use the Razer mamba mouse, and it seems like when I shut the PC down, I lose power to the USB ports, so the mouse won't charge. Any way to set it so there is always USB power even when the PC is off?

2) When I ran the stress test, I can hear what I believe is coil whine on the PSU. In particular it's running "furmark" with the "post processing" option enabled. That makes it whine really clearly. It doesn't seem to happen in games for "real usage" but in the stress test it's definitely there, and pretty annoying since it's clearly audible. Should I swap the PSU out for a new one, or is this kind of thing somewhat normal? I'm just afraid that I'll run in to some game or application which will make the PSU whine again, and it will be annoying.
 
In regards to installing Windows 7 upgrade, after installing it once, you could've installed it again and it would've worked fine :) Looks nice by the way!
 
Silverstone makes a short cable pack for their psu's, I just picked it up for my Q08 server (works great, just about the perfect length).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025VKUN4

No idea if it'll work with your Seasonic, but I just thought I'd mention it.
 
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Looking at the product pictures I am not sure it will work, for example the ATX power cable on my Seasonic actually plugs into the PSU with 2 cables. And the PCI-E connector, it has 2 PCI-E connections per cable, with I think an 8-pin connection on the PSU side.

I think it has partly to do with the Seasonic design of the PSU, where they are doing something different with the 3.3 and 5V power rails, as they show on their website. They can't bundle the 3.3 and 5V connections with the 12V connections so big bundles like the ATX need to hook up to the PSU twice.

X-03.jpg
 
I noticed that when you created the Y-connector for your fan cables... you joined the yellow cables. The yellow cable is for RPM monitoring of the fan speed. I don't know how joining the cables will affect the reading. I predict that it'll show somewhere between 100% and 200% of the regular fan speed.

Sorry for diversion, we now return you to your regularly scheduled forum thread :)
 
You are correct, I didn't really think about that but realized it later when I checked the fan monitoring in the BIOS or monitoring software. You're exactly right in that the reported speed is nominally the regular fan speed, but has occasional spikes up to about twice the speed (because both are running around 900rpm I think, so it sits around 900 with sporadic excursions to 1800-2000rpm). When I saw this behavior I recognized the cause (but not the solution :)) and just disabled/ignored the RPM monitoring on the chassis fan.

I suppose I should go back in and unsolder or clip one of the wires, at least I'd get accurate RPM reporting for one fan (likely I'll use the front fan for RPM monitoring).

Ruahrc
 
nice

instead of an eraser you could get some rubber feet for furniture from the grocery store home section, they will have one side with adhesive that will keep it in place in the case
 
Great job man! Enjoyed the HQ pics and information! My question is, unless I missed it already stated, what fans did you stick with for the case? since supposedly you ordered one and it was wrong so you got another with more fins or less fins?

Also how quiet is the overal system during idle and load? I have a thermaltake element q with all my mini stuff sitting in it while it runs a WHS which I barely use anymore. So what I want to do is use the Lian Li q08 case and rebuild my mini pc using components from the WHS system and my main pc, just for fun and as a hobby!

I still cant talk myself into paying hundred dollars or more though for the case when I have enough computer crap as it is... Although it would be awesome to shove 3 - 3.5" internal HDDs, a 2.5" SSD a 5.25" blu ray burner, Gigabyte H55N-USB3 M-ITX mobo, 4 or 8 gigs of ram, ati 5850 gpu, and a full size psu into one of these modding all cables and fans and such!

Keep us updated what else you do with it!
 
Thanks for the comments

skyhawk- I ended up using the P12 fan (more blades and CFM but "noisier") instead of the S12 (fewer blades and CFM but "quieter"). Because of the black fan grill that sits right next to the fan, airflow on the S12 seems to drop off pretty fast if you use low noise adapters. After a little unscientific (hand-feel) testing, I decided that I was getting more airflow for the same (or less) noise by using the P12 fan and the (blue) ultra low noise adapter than I was using the S12 fan and the medium adapter. The S12 seemed to have a different noise character, in which you could hear the motor more distinctly than the P12, which is mainly "air whoosh".

I am very happy with the system noise overall. In the windows environment the system is very quiet- there is definitely audible noise but it's air whoosh from the fans. I can't hear the HDD spinning, and the GPU fans, when ramped down, are inaudible. It's a lot quieter than my older Shuttle XPC, and the character of the noise is a lot more pleasing as well. There's no whine, just broadband airflow noises.

Under load, it gets louder, solely due to the GPU fans ramping up. None of the case fans nor the CPU fan have PWM speed control, so they're basically running "full blast" all the time, so the only contribution to noise at load is the GPU fan. Even so, it's not obtrusively loud at load. I have tuned the fan settings in MSI afterburner to ramp up to about 55% fan speed at 80C. With the settings I have, I find that in games the GPU stays at or around 68-70C and the fan speed is about 50%.

Temps are IMO very good for the cooling configuration. At idle the CPU will be at around 35C, and the GPU is in the same range, 35-40C. Under normal gaming load I notice that the CPU gets up to about 60C, and the GPU gets up to about 70C. Running some extreme stress tests (Furmark running plus 4 threads of Prime95 FFT at the same time), the CPU gets up to about 65-68C, and the GPU gets up to about 75C. Given that the fans are running on very quiet settings, and the relatively low noise level at load, I find this to be acceptable thermal loading. Things are getting warmer than they could be if I used louder fan settings, but nothing's getting extremely hot, even under beyond-normal load levels. I accept these "higher" temps in trade for a quieter system. The one thing I could try to do would be to mess with voltage control on the CPU and GPU to see if I can undervolt them. But so far, the ASUS mobo seems to be doing some dynamic voltage ramping on the CPU since it idles at about 0.9V and goes to 1.1-1.2V under load. The hardware monitor program I have reports that the CPU only dissipates about 60W of heat maximum even under the heaviest loads. I think I'd be able to force it to a specific voltage (say 1.05V or something) but it would remain there all the time, so slightly lower load temps but maybe a little higher idle temps. The GPU voltage I'd really consider tweaking, but for some reason I can't seem to see or control the GPU voltage using MSI afterburner? I am not using MSI drivers, but instead the stock AMD Catalysts. Is that the reason?

BTW the PSU is extraordinarily quiet. It has fan logic in it that makes it run in "fanless" mode until the load goes up or the temps go up. In the time I've been using the machine, I don't think I have ever heard the PSU fan ramp up for more than a few seconds at a time. Or if it is running, it's so slow/quiet I cannot hear it. I put my fingers behind the PSU exhaust grill to feel for a flow of hot air but I don't really feel anything. I have identified a particular noise which I believe is the PSU fan kicking in (or ramping up) but it's very mild in character, and only lasts about a second (just like a brief passing gust of wind), before going away again for the next 30+ minutes. I think this is in part to the over-specced nature of the PSU. 650W seems like way too much power for the components in the system.

I still need to pin down the coil whine. I know a few instances where I can make it happen on command (furmark with post processing enabled, for example, also running the game Silent Hunter IV seems to give some faint coil whine). I am unsure as to whether it is from the PSU, or the GPU though. I will need to pull the computer out and open it up, and listen carefully to see if I can identify the source. However, even if I end up keeping the parts as-is, I think it will be a minimal issue.

Re: spending money on the case- in my past experiences with building PCs, I have personally found that buying a good quality case is a good investment, as format standards don't change much with time and you can use the same case in many builds over the years. Thus, even something like $100 for a case ends up being pretty cheap if it gets used in 3 builds, etc. The first case I really used a lot was originally an ATX minitower from a computer that shipped with an AMD K6 233MHz CPU. I put at least 2 builds in it, and used it probably 5+ years through HS and most of college. Then I got the shuttle XPC, which I've had for almost 7 years. If I end up keeping this Q08 for a similar amount of time, I'd say that's money well spent. Certainly better ROI than the $200 or so I put into a video card, only to upgrade it a few years later.
 
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In general the cheaper the case the more modifications and fan purchases (to add or to add and replace), filters, rubber feet, etc. are needed.
I enjoy making the total what it is.
Good small cases do cost more, and are more intense.
 
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