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2 loops or a second rad?

B

BrandonB

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Jan 25, 2007
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Hello,

So I was considering getting a second 8800GTS and putting them in SLI, however with an OC'ed CPU and an 8800GTS in my current loop it gets pretty warm, so if I were to add another 8800GTS would I need to put in a second loop or just a second radiator? If I need a second loop would I put my main one on the GPU's and a second smaller one on the CPU?

Thanks for your help!
 
BrandonB said:
Hello,

So I was considering getting a second 8800GTS and putting them in SLI, however with an OC'ed CPU and an 8800GTS in my current loop it gets pretty warm, so if I were to add another 8800GTS would I need to put in a second loop or just a second radiator? If I need a second loop would I put my main one on the GPU's and a second smaller one on the CPU?

Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

It all depends upon what pump you have now. If it can handle the restriction then one loop is fine. Two loops would probably be the more ideal situation, but you dont *need* them.
 
Erasmus354 said:
It all depends upon what pump you have now. If it can handle the restriction then one loop is fine. Two loops would probably be the more ideal situation, but you dont *need* them.
Click to expand...

Sorry, forgot to mention my watercooling parts.

I've got:

Swiftech MCP655 pump

Swiftech MCR-220 radiator

Swiftech MCRES-Micro reservoir

Swiftech Apogee GT waterblock

Koolance 8800GTS full cover waterblock
 
BrandonB said:
Sorry, forgot to mention my watercooling parts.

I've got:

Swiftech MCP655 pump

Swiftech MCR-220 radiator

Swiftech MCRES-Micro reservoir

Swiftech Apogee GT waterblock

Koolance 8800GTS full cover waterblock
Click to expand...

You'd be better off with two loops like Erasmus said. However, if you prefer to keep everything in one loop for simplicities sake, either replace your MCR220QP with a Thermochill PA120.3 (should be able to handle an OC'ed Conroe and 2 8800GTX's), or add another MCR220 into your loop.

I'd consider a different manufacturer's waterblock for your 2nd 8800GTS as well.
 
Ranker said:
You'd be better off with two loops like Erasmus said. However, if you prefer to keep everything in one loop for simplicities sake, either replace your MCR220QP with a Thermochill PA120.3 (should be able to handle an OC'ed Conroe and 2 8800GTX's), or add another MCR220 into your loop.

I'd consider a different manufacturer's waterblock for your 2nd 8800GTS as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, yes I will definitely get an EK waterblock this time around.
 
Just add another radiator... The gains of going dual loop would be small at most...

The price of another pump just doesn't cut it IMO.
 
Arcygenical said:
Just add another radiator... The gains of going dual loop would be small at most...

The price of another pump just doesn't cut it IMO.
Click to expand...

Where in the hell would I put another readiator? =| I don't have that much room in this Gigabyte Aurora...


Edit:

Course if I don't even have enough room for another radiator how would I have enough for an entire loop lol.
 
BrandonB said:
Where in the hell would I put another readiator? =| I don't have that much room in this Gigabyte Aurora...


Edit:

Course if I don't even have enough room for another radiator how would I have enough for an entire loop lol.
Click to expand...

Most of the stuff can fit inside your Aurora. However, the large radiator will have to be mounted externally, probably with a Swiftech radbox.
 
Ranker said:
Most of the stuff can fit inside your Aurora. However, the large radiator will have to be mounted externally, probably with a Swiftech radbox.
Click to expand...

Well, I've already got one dual 120MM radiator outside mounted with a RAD box, only other place I think it would go is on top.
 
BrandonB said:
Well, I've already got one dual 120MM radiator outside mounted with a RAD box, only other place I think it would go is on top.
Click to expand...

Time to bust out the dremel. I'd move the 320 I suggested you buy outside while moving the 220 up top.
 
your 120.2 should be enought to handle 2 8800s .. you could always go with a seconed 120.1 externally for the cpu (it will be FAR more than enought)

pump>cpu>120.1gpu>gpu>120.2>res|>pump

my system (in sig) runs right around 110°f .. which isnt to bad... but its not oc'ed... and my main fan is 7v moded.. at full power it sits around 85f.. (so im very close to maxing out my rads capacity) but if i take my vid card off the loop, its good for about 10° drop.. (depending on ambient of course)

a 120.1 and a 120.2 should allow you to keep your current over clock, giveing you the heat movement of a 120.3 but with ouly the cost of a 120.1,... and the flow cost is really about the same as a 120.3 (maybe a little bit more cost, but i really doubt it would be noticeable
 
Ranker said:
Time to bust out the dremel. I'd move the 320 I suggested you buy outside while moving the 220 up top.
Click to expand...

I dunno, the 120.2 already obstructs (sp?) most of the inputs on my mobo (but I can still get to them) if I go any lower I don't think I'll be able to plug in my DVI cable. Atleast I have a dremel should I go this route (however I suck at using it). I'm trying to avoid cutting into my case as it's pretty expensive, 200 or so I think.

thore said:
your 120.2 should be enought to handle 2 8800s .. you could always go with a seconed 120.1 externally for the cpu (it will be FAR more than enought)

pump>cpu>120.1gpu>gpu>120.2>res|>pump

my system (in sig) runs right around 110°f .. which isnt to bad... but its not oc'ed... and my main fan is 7v moded.. at full power it sits around 85f.. (so im very close to maxing out my rads capacity) but if i take my vid card off the loop, its good for about 10° drop.. (depending on ambient of course)

a 120.1 and a 120.2 should allow you to keep your current over clock, giveing you the heat movement of a 120.3 but with ouly the cost of a 120.1,... and the flow cost is really about the same as a 120.3 (maybe a little bit more cost, but i really doubt it would be noticeable
Click to expand...

This sounds more reasonable, I still dunno where I'd put the 120.1 but it'd be much easier to find a spot for it because it's smaller.


*Edit

So, if I wanted to, say put a 120.2 Rad on top of my case how would I go about doing that? What needs to be cut? What needs to be bought? Etc etc...
 
If I bought THIS would I be able to mount a second 120MM on TOP of it instead of below it? I was thinking either a second dual 120MM or another single 120MM rad. Suggestions?
 
So, if I wanted to, say put a 120.2 Rad on top of my case how would I go about doing that? What needs to be cut? What needs to be bought? Etc etc...
Click to expand...

Here is one way, needs to have some bling added, tubing around the screws holding the rad "up in the air" etc. but I got in a hurry and lazy (shame shame, I am not worthy).

Just for a idea, it does have the very real and measurable advantage of sucking cool ambient room air through the rad instead of warm case air. However its not real pretty, at least the quickie way I did it. Just long screws inserted up through the top of the case with double nuts etc. If you think about it you can figure out how I did it, trick is to not run down/tighter the nut securing the screw to the case top until after you screw it into the rad casing. It takes 3 hands and a couple of thick books :p



http://mysite.verizon.net/ressdxka/id3.html


oh 1 loop put the rads in parallel.
 
BillParrish said:
Here is one way, needs to have some bling added, tubing around the screws holding the rad "up in the air" etc. but I got in a hurry and lazy (shame shame, I am not worthy).

Just for a idea, it does have the very real and measurable advantage of sucking cool ambient room air through the rad instead of warm case air. However its not real pretty, at least the quickie way I did it. Just long screws inserted up through the top of the case with double nuts etc. If you think about it you can figure out how I did it, trick is to not run down/tighter the nut securing the screw to the case top until after you screw it into the rad casing. It takes 3 hands and a couple of thick books :p



http://mysite.verizon.net/ressdxka/id3.html
Click to expand...

It doesn't look that bad really, how did you keep the screws from going too far? Want to avoid puncturing the radiator.

Right now my loop is: Rad > Pump > Res > CPU > GPU > Rad, how would I do the loop with a second radiator? The layout is: Radiator is mounted on the back with a rad box, it goes from that straight to the pump and up to the reservoir then out to the cpu block then down to the gpu block then back to the radiator.

My biggest concern is having to drill as I'm not very good at it, I'd like to do that as little as possible if I can. As if watercooling was already difficult for me, it's just getting more and more complicated. :p
 
the rad housing (like most others) had screw holes, they were not the right size but a cheap $1 tap fixed that, The whole deal i of the trick is you lay the rad on the case top or make a paper template to locate where you need to drill the small holes for the screws and the big holes for the tubing, drill your holes, run the screws up out of the top, put two nuts 1/2 way on the screws, scew the scew into the fan mounting hole of the rad just a little bit, just thru the metal "casing" then run the upper nut up against the rad case and the lower nut down to the top of the case to hold the screw stiff and upright.
 
BillParrish said:
the rad housing (like most others) had screw holes, they were not the right size but a cheap $1 tap fixed that, The whole deal i of the trick is you lay the rad on the case top or make a paper template to locate where you need to drill the small holes for the screws and the big holes for the tubing, drill your holes, run the screws up out of the top, put two nuts 1/2 way on the screws, scew the scew into the fan mounting hole of the rad just a little bit, just thru the metal "casing" then run the upper nut up against the rad case and the lower nut down to the top of the case to hold the screw stiff and upright.
Click to expand...


Code: 
o    <-nut
o    <-nut
-     <-top of rad
|     
|     
|     <-long ass bolt (machine screw)
|     
|     
_    <-bottom of rad
o    <-nut
o    <-nut 
|
|
|    <-same machine screw
|
o    <-nut
o    <-nut
_    <-top of case
8   <- final 2 nuts, or bolt/machine screw head

of course/ if you flip this 90° it will work for a rear mount stand off as well
 
thore said:
Code: 
o    <-nut
o    <-nut
-     <-top of rad
|     
|     
|     <-long ass bolt (machine screw)
|     
|     
_    <-bottom of rad
o    <-nut
o    <-nut 
|
|
|    <-same machine screw
|
o    <-nut
o    <-nut
_    <-top of case
8   <- final 2 nuts, or bolt/machine screw head

of course/ if you flip this 90° it will work for a rear mount stand off as well
Click to expand...

I must be really stupid because I can't for the life of me understand what that diagram is. Need to find a video or something, if I can figure out how to do this the right way I'll order the parts tomorrow.
 
I think I am confusing people with my a) lousy picture b) poor description.

The screw doenst go all the way through the rad, it just (barely) goes into the screw holes intended for fans on the metal "surround" of the rad. So at the underside of the rad the screw just barely goes into the rad shroud, just like a short fan screw would, then one of the nuts is run up against the rad shroud and that holds everything tight and stiff at that end, the second nut is run down to the top of the computer case, this makes the screw previously inserted up from inside the case, both tight and stiff so it acts as a standoff.

I used (assuming 4 standoffs per rad, you could use 8 but my rads are light.)

You need per rad
Qty 4 - #6-32 screws x 2 or 2 1/2 inches long
or shorter for a sleeker "low profile" look but I wanted to be able to get a small paintbrush in under the rads to brush the dust off occasionaly without taking it all apart (lol now I just carry it outside and use the air compressor) . If I was going to do it again I would probally use 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 inch screws depending on what was at the store. You dont need a lot of room underneath but at least an inch I would guesstimate just so air can get there without making any "rushing" noise.
QTY 8 - #6-32 nuts
QTY 8 #6 split lockwashers.
QTY 4 #6 flatwashers.

Brass hardware (screws and nuts etc. ) looks cool at first but it will tarnish after a while. Stainless steel hardware is pricey but this stuff is not that expensive to begin with, its common hardware and SS will look just as nice 10 years from now. Look in the specialty hardware drawers at lowes for SS hardware, not sure its in the little plastic packs they hang from the wall, but might be.

flatwasher under the head of the screw inside the case.

lockwasher between the lower nut and the case
lockwasher between the upper nut and the rad shroud/housing.

stuff is dirt cheap buy a few extra screws nuts and washers just in case. I will try and borrow my brothers camera tomorrow and give you some nice close ups if you are serious about it, its really easy to do. The hardest part is getting the holes in the right place and the trick there is lay a piece of stiff paper on the rad and just transfer the location of the holes (along with an outline of the rad so you can get the placement where you want it.) I think I used a 1 inch hole saw I found in the garage that was for drilling the holes in a door for the latch, dulled the crap out of it using it on metal but it lasted for the 4 holes I needed. I cant remember the size drill for a #6 clearance hole google for the win ! a 5/32 drill bit is prefect 3/16 works fine too.


Doh !!! For this to work the rad MUST be set up so you can mount fans on both sides of the rad, because you want to use the screws holes for what would be the bottom fans for the screws to support the rad.
 
BillParrish said:
I think I am confusing people with my a) lousy picture b) poor description.

The screw doenst go all the way through the rad, it just (barely) goes into the screw holes intended for fans on the metal "surround" of the rad. So at the underside of the rad the screw just barely goes into the rad shroud, just like a short fan screw would, then one of the nuts is run up against the rad shroud and that holds everything tight and stiff at that end, the second nut is run down to the top of the computer case, this makes the screw previously inserted up from inside the case, both tight and stiff so it acts as a standoff.

I used (assuming 4 standoffs per rad, you could use 8 but my rads are light.)

You need per rad
Qty 4 - #6-32 screws x 2 or 2 1/2 inches long
or shorter for a sleeker "low profile" look but I wanted to be able to get a small paintbrush in under the rads to brush the dust off occasionaly without taking it all apart (lol now I just carry it outside and use the air compressor) . If I was going to do it again I would probally use 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 inch screws depending on what was at the store. You dont need a lot of room underneath but at least an inch I would guesstimate just so air can get there without making any "rushing" noise.
QTY 8 - #6-32 nuts
QTY 8 #6 split lockwashers.
QTY 4 #6 flatwashers.

Brass hardware (screws and nuts etc. ) looks cool at first but it will tarnish after a while. Stainless steel hardware is pricey but this stuff is not that expensive to begin with, its common hardware and SS will look just as nice 10 years from now. Look in the specialty hardware drawers at lowes for SS hardware, not sure its in the little plastic packs they hang from the wall, but might be.

flatwasher under the head of the screw inside the case.

lockwasher between the lower nut and the case
lockwasher between the upper nut and the rad shroud/housing.

stuff is dirt cheap buy a few extra screws nuts and washers just in case. I will try and borrow my brothers camera tomorrow and give you some nice close ups if you are serious about it, its really easy to do. The hardest part is getting the holes in the right place and the trick there is lay a piece of stiff paper on the rad and just transfer the location of the holes (along with an outline of the rad so you can get the placement where you want it.) I think I used a 1 inch hole saw I found in the garage that was for drilling the holes in a door for the latch, dulled the crap out of it using it on metal but it lasted for the 4 holes I needed. I cant remember the size drill for a #6 clearance hole google for the win ! a 5/32 drill bit is prefect 3/16 works fine too.


Doh !!! For this to work the rad MUST be set up so you can mount fans on both sides of the rad, because you want to use the screws holes for what would be the bottom fans for the screws to support the rad.
Click to expand...

This helps alot, thanks! My grandfather is good at this stuff so I'll get with him and we'll start on the project. I'll order the rad and fans now.

Edit:

K, just ordered: Swiftech MCR-220, 5 Yate Loon fans and some more pentosin G11. w00t
 
Ranker said:
You'd be better off with two loops like Erasmus said. However, if you prefer to keep everything in one loop for simplicities sake, either replace your MCR220QP with a Thermochill PA120.3 (should be able to handle an OC'ed Conroe and 2 8800GTX's), or add another MCR220 into your loop.

I'd consider a different manufacturer's waterblock for your 2nd 8800GTS as well.
Click to expand...

a single Thermochill PA120.2 should be able to handle a single 8800 and an OC'ed conroe buy itself no?
 
Visable-assassin said:
and a dual 120mm heatercore should be able to do the same as well.
so why not just pick up a heatercore and save a little cash and just cool that CPU and single vid card?
Click to expand...

Ehh, what? I need to cool an OC'ed E6400 and 2 8800 GTS's in SLI (haven't gotton the second 8800 yet). Are you saying a dual 120MM heatercore will work just as well as one of those expensive thermochill rads?
 
BrandonB said:
Ehh, what? I need to cool an OC'ed E6400 and 2 8800 GTS's in SLI (haven't gotton the second 8800 yet). Are you saying a dual 120MM heatercore will work just as well as one of those expensive thermochill rads?
Click to expand...

didnt catch the second GTS part...i guess I didnt read it :p
no i wont say a HC will will work for two of those video cards.
so ill take back what I said and ill probably agree with either a second loop or a stupid huge radiator (which I somehow dont think youll have room for.)
 
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