1st system setup qstns.

[runLoganrun]

doing a cpu only loop.

If I get a radiator that has one fitting on top, and one on bottom, does flow direction matter, ie: should the intake be on top or bottom?

Does it matter where the pump is in the loop, or anything else for that matter? The design I have goes Rad->Cpu->Res->Pump->Rad, or Rad->Res->Cpu->Pump->Rad(if external reservoir).

Thanks!

 

[Xilikon]

1-The direction doesn't matter. What just matter is to make sure one barb is the inlet and the other is the outlet. The usual way is to make sure the outlet is the highest point to help with air bleeding (or highest when the case is put on his side).


2- It doesn't matter where the pump is placed in the loop. The only requirement is to make sure the reservoir is before the pump. Usually, the ideal place is after the reservoir but before the radiator so it can remove the pump heat before it reach the waterblocks but don't always try to stick to this if another way would result in a easier tubing.

 

[runLoganrun]

1-The direction doesn't matter. What just matter is to make sure one barb is the inlet and the other is the outlet. The usual way is to make sure the outlet is the highest point to help with air bleeding (or highest when the case is put on his side).


2- It doesn't matter where the pump is placed in the loop. The only requirement is to make sure the reservoir is before the pump. Usually, the ideal place is after the reservoir but before the radiator so it can remove the pump heat before it reach the waterblocks but don't always try to stick to this if another way would result in a easier tubing.

Thanks- I think I have a pretty good system planned out, I'm pretty sure that I will go with a DangerDen 5.25" bay reservoir, the acrylic one. I'm not so sure about how a block of liquid will look in the front of my case (it's all black aluminum), and it looks like a hassle to fill, but it's the best fitting, best quality I can get in that price range. I thought about going with an external one, but I wasn't sure where I would put it as I'm using the Swiftech Radbox in the back already, and it looked like more of a pita to install.

For a radiator I decided on the Swiftech MCR120, both for the price, and the fact that both ports are on the bottom of the reservoir, which would match up well with the pci slot cover I'm using for hoses. Initially I was going to go with the DangerDen Black Ice Xtreme, same price range, but one port is on top.

For a res, I'm, so far, planning on the DangerDen single 5.25 acrylic bay insert. My other option is going to be the small DangerDen, round, external reservoir, which i could put right off the top port of the black ice xtreme rad. It would mean that the pump would be before Rad, and after cpu block, and although it would be something else outside my case; it would be easier to fill, and I like the idea of all that liquid being outside my case.

(rest of system includes, swiftech apogee gt block, dd cpx1 pump, scythe sflex fdb fan, and 3/8 ID tubing)

For the radiators, performance wise, is there one that is better, out of these two?

Am I better off with that bay insert (anyone used this one?) for a reservoir, or should I go with external one?

Thanks again,
rlr

 

[Xilikon]

For the reservoir, ditch everything you saw and get a Swiftech MicroRes, it's the best and really compact. You can fit such a small reservoir internally without issues.

As for the radiator, before I can say it's ok or not, what will you try to cool ?

 

[runLoganrun]

For the reservoir, ditch everything you saw and get a Swiftech MicroRes, it's the best and really compact. You can fit such a small reservoir internally without issues.

As for the radiator, before I can say it's ok or not, what will you try to cool ?

Hey- I looked at that Swiftech Micro Res before but thought it was bigger than it is, it looks like the way to go. I wasn't sure before also bcz of the varying sizes in reservoirs.

I am making a cpu only loop.

Thanks!
rlr

 

[Xilikon]

For a cpu-only loop, a MCR120 could work but it also depends on what processor. A better choice would be the MCR220 (not much more expensive).

 

[runLoganrun]

For a cpu-only loop, a MCR120 could work but it also depends on what processor. A better choice would be the MCR220 (not much more expensive).

I have a Opti 170, overclocked to 2.6. That's as high as it will go on air, if I enable cpu vcore overvoltage the temps soar, but that's the only way to get above 2.6.

I thought that you only needed a 2x120 radiator for additional water blocks. Def want to be cool though. If I add the mcr220, would I be able to add a gpu block, or two, in the future, or would that require a different pump?

rlr

 

[Xilikon]

I have a Opti 170, overclocked to 2.6. That's as high as it will go on air, if I enable cpu vcore overvoltage the temps soar, but that's the only way to get above 2.6.

I thought that you only needed a 2x120 radiator for additional water blocks. Def want to be cool though. If I add the mcr220, would I be able to add a gpu block, or two, in the future, or would that require a different pump?

rlr

Not always, even just 1 block might need a triple rad. Just look at a Q6600 overclocked and you are looking at a MCR320 minimum. It depends on the heat dissipation of the components you try to cool then match the proper radiator since when you get smaller, it will dissipate much less. With a single MCR120, we are talking about similar performance to a Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme, meaning it's useless to watercool.

 

[runLoganrun]

Not always, even just 1 block might need a triple rad. Just look at a Q6600 overclocked and you are looking at a MCR320 minimum. It depends on the heat dissipation of the components you try to cool then match the proper radiator since when you get smaller, it will dissipate much less. With a single MCR120, we are talking about similar performance to a Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme, meaning it's useless to watercool.

Thanks Xilikon- That makes sense, I'm just learning about watercooling so this is really helpful. I decided that I would switch out the pump; I was going to get the DD CPX1, but it seems like the ST MCP-355 is a better pump. I think I have everything pretty dialed now, but I am wondering a bit about tubing, and coolant.

For 3/8" ID tubing, do I want to get the thicker 5/8" OD?

I was just going to get coolant with some color added, they don't all have anti-mildew/fungal compounds in them, do I need to add that, or what do I have to add at all?

Thanks again!!
rlr

 

[Xilikon]

For tubing, try to get a 1/8" inch wall thickness, thus 5/8" in your case. Thicker walls = better bending radius (to avoid kinking). Tygon is a good choice but if you aren't set on the inner diameter yet, look at the 7/16" Masterkleer tubing, cheap and working great.

As for coolant, the best mix would be pure distilled water + 1-2 drops of biocide (like Petra'S PT Nuke). Optionally get some Pentosin to add some blue color and to add anticorrosion protection, not really needed with the right selection of components. Coolant fluids sold in bottles is pre-mixed but not always the best since they are conductive (despite the non-conductive claims) and can clog the waterblocks.

 

[Arcygenical]

Not always, even just 1 block might need a triple rad. Just look at a Q6600 overclocked and you are looking at a MCR320 minimum. It depends on the heat dissipation of the components you try to cool then match the proper radiator since when you get smaller, it will dissipate much less. With a single MCR120, we are talking about similar performance to a Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme, meaning it's useless to watercool.

A 3.120mm radiator for a single Q6600? I think not... My Q6600 and 8800GTS are run on a triple Black Ice Pro radiator with yates at 10v!

 

[Xilikon]

A 3.120mm radiator for a single Q6600? I think not... My Q6600 and 8800GTS are run on a triple Black Ice Pro radiator with yates at 10v!

I know what you are talking but I'm talking best temps. IIRC, you went with silence more than temperature so it will still work.

 

[runLoganrun]

For tubing, try to get a 1/8" inch wall thickness, thus 5/8" in your case. Thicker walls = better bending radius (to avoid kinking). Tygon is a good choice but if you aren't set on the inner diameter yet, look at the 7/16" Masterkleer tubing, cheap and working great.

As for coolant, the best mix would be pure distilled water + 1-2 drops of biocide (like Petra'S PT Nuke). Optionally get some Pentosin to add some blue color and to add anticorrosion protection, not really needed with the right selection of components. Coolant fluids sold in bottles is pre-mixed but not always the best since they are conductive (despite the non-conductive claims) and can clog the waterblocks.

Hey- I found Pentosin at the place I'm getting the rest of my parts from, but I googled Petra's PT Nuke and came up with nothing, there was a couple forum posts about it, but no retailers. The only other stuff they sell at the sites I've been on have been mixtures, uv dye, or anti-conductives.

thx,
rlr

never mind, found petra tech shop, and Nuke. will use that, thanks for suggestion.
Thanks a ton for all your help, it will prob take a couple weeks to get everything, will post how it turns out.

Regards,
Damon