1080gtx w/4k uhd

Looks like a really nice choice! Great picture, great inputs, HDR, and low input lag across the board. The only problem that I see is if you use it with a DVD or blu ray player since it has a problem with judder (probably due to the 60Hz panel). Oh, and it has a small viewing angle due to being a VA panel - which won't be an issue if you are the only person using it.

I went with the Sony X810C and wish I just kept my old Samsung 1080P because the input lag at 4K is abysmal. Others that went with Sony but different models feel the same.

Also, you'll have to turn down some game settings at 4K to keep >60FPS. At least I have to with my single, heavily OCed 1080.
 
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Mainly just playing BF4 and Doom 3 so based on the review here @ [H] it looks like I may be OK and could possibly keep settings near max. My 3570K may hold me back a little bit but I think it's more likely to be a GPU limited scenario than anything else.

I hadn't really read anything much about input lag on these 4K displays until a friend told me to beware of it. I don't notice any with my current samsung 1080p. So I had no idea what he was talking about.

Costs on these 4K displays have come down quite a great deal. However I want to be careful with my choice. Hence why I was asking here first. :)
 
4k your gona want sli. Titan is not enough for 4k with today's games.. yesterday's game you may be fine with a 1080.
 
I have the same exact TV. It's really quite great. It would be almost perfect, except for some slight ghosting with high contrasting colors. You don't notice it in games or movies, but on some webpages you can see it scrolling up and down. I would still recommend getting it, as otherwise it's all really nice.

In terms of 4K, I was originally running a GTX 970 on this machine. I was able to play some old/non-demanding games at full 4K 60FPS+. Like DmC (Devil May Cry), Ridge Racer: Unbounded, and some old titles like Left4Dead and Assassin's Creed 2. I did try with Crysis 3 and on medium it was almost playable at around 35FPS.

Ended up getting a Titan XP. Also upgraded CPU and RAM slightly, which made a bit of a difference as well. Now I can play practically any games at 4K without problem. Deus Ex MD was an exception, even on High settings I was just barely getting above 60FPS, but was eventually able to play it.

Depending on what games you play, a GTX 1080 may be enough. Definitely don't expect to max out Deus Ex, but I bet some other games would be fine. For example, I'm getting around 100FPS in BF1 at 4K ultra settings. A 1080 would likely get able to get a solid 60FPS.

Are you really playing Doom 3? Don't you mean Doom 4 aka DOOM (2016)? You should have no problem with DOOM, it's very well optimized and can run 60FPS on a potato.
 
I'm playing on a KS8000. You can play 4K in lots of games these days, and I'm even a stickler for 60fps. You'll need to turn the details down a bit, but you'll also find that many of those settings (especially AA) don't matter as much at 4K anyway. I find that medium details and 4K > 1080p maxed out in many, but not all situations.
 
Sorry my bad. Yes Doom 4.

I have read about the higher refresh and better panel/IQ on the KS8000 series but the trade off is the more than double price over the KU6300 and also the extra 9" of screen which I don't really need or want. Input lag in PC mode is close between the two. Some people are not bothered by PC mode even playing games like BF4. Others, it's a problem for them.

The KS8000 is a lot to spend and a lot of extra space that would be taken up on my desk. I can only sit about 3' back from the display so that may be pushing it too.

I may just have to swing by best buy and check these out in person next weekend. Alternately if I decide I MUST have the KS8000 I could try waiting for a black friday sale next month.
 
I was gaming on a Sony TV for years so the "PC mode" is still plenty quick for me. Even with competitive fighting games, which often rely on limited frame timing. I play Street Fighter 4 and 5 in 4K mode with an 80-90% win rate. I'm no pro or anything, but I can more than handle myself online.
I'm sure someone who is used to playing CS 1.6 on one of those tournament-level ASUS panels would feel differently, though. For a TV, it's stellar, though.
 
I have that tv. Watching 1080p content looks very nice on it. I'm using is as couch gaming monitor at 4k, and I'm pretty happy with it. I first ran it with a 760 and most of my games looked fine.
 
Well whatever I get it will be from BB or Target locally so I can return it if I hate it.

How small is the text in Windows on a display like this? I am assuming all of you are doing something to enlarge the text. Some setting in Windows. Because I can't imagine how tiny the letters would be on a 40" screen with twice the resolution of my 1080p.
 
I use Windows scaling at 150%, it makes things easier to see, about similar to a 1440P screen.
 
4k your gona want sli. Titan is not enough for 4k with today's games.. yesterday's game you may be fine with a 1080.

That's only true if you don't actually care about gaming and must for specs sake pin it all on ultra or bust.
 
Funny, I am getting around 100FPS with 4K Ultra settings on Battlefield 1 and the Titan XP. Certainly, that's today's game.
 
Based on the hardocp review Doom should be OK as should BF4. I can adjust AA down to help if needed too. With the pixel density, particularly on a KU6300 40", it may not be needed much if at all. Only other game that is a "must" have for me is Squadron 42 if it ever comes out. AKA star citizen.

Going to BB this week to take a look at the KS8000 and the KU6300 in person. They won't be hooked up to a PC but at least I can get some idea of how they will be and in particular if a 49" screen is going to be too large for me when I can only sit back about 3' from it at my desk. One thing I like about the 40" KU6300 is even if the picture quality is in one way or another not as good as the KS8000. The pixels are smaller on it so in theory it should be sharper.
 
With a little tweaking I'd say you can actually play MOST games in 4K with a GTX1080. Again, some of those sliders don't matter much (vs. 1080p) so you don't have to shoot for the moon with things like AA.
There are some exceptions and I still play about 1/3 of my games in 1080p just to avoid fps dropouts, but we're getting close. Whatever the 1180 card ends up being will probably be a true full-time 4K card for nearly everything.
 
Picked up the 49KS8000 tonight and am trying to get it set up. Using HDMI2 input as that is what the instructions seem to indicate for PC usage. Set to 60hz in the Nvidia control panel.

Had a problem where the screen was blinking on/off constantly when UHD was turned on and it was set to 4:4:4. I turned UHD off and updated the firmware. Put it back on UHD and so far it hasn't done it since then. Testing still.

Where can I get some true UHD wallpapers? Most I'm finding are compressed crap. 2MB jpegs for crying out loud.
 
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Awesome buy. Watch this video (make sure to full screen and set 4K quality, obviously).

 
YouTube has 4K with HDR support now. There's a Life of Pi trailer that does a pretty good job showing it off. The latest version of MadVR also supports it, but it's not exactly perfect and requires a decent amount of tweaking.
 
I am reading these blackout problems with the KS8000 can be due to the cable. I'm surprised a $23 4' HDMI cable that is supposed to do 18gbps would be an issue. Is Rocketfish junk?

First thing I'm going to do if the black screens keep coming back is to swap the cable out. I hate the idea of spending $60 on a cable though at best buy.

I couldn't get that video to buffer last night. I'll try again today.
 
4k your gona want sli. Titan is not enough for 4k with today's games.. yesterday's game you may be fine with a 1080.

My overclocked 980 Ti does 60fps in BF1 with 4k and all settings max except AA is off, since it's not really needed for 4k. A 1080 would do even better.
 
Reading the 4K setup guide here on this forum it seems to indicate RGB and Full are the best option with Black levels set to Normal on the display. Seems a little contrary to what I've read in other threads around here about setting it to ycbcr 4:4:4. It would help if I knew what I was doing, which I don't. Anyhow with RGB selected in the Nvidia driver you don't get the option for 4:4:4 so I am left to assume (?) that setting RGB puts it in 4:4:4.
 
On my KS8000 I was having some odd issues (not sure if it's the same) where the screen would blink on and off. I replaced the HDMI cable I was using with some new ones (got a 3-pack of 6 footers for $18 at Microcenter) and haven't had any issues since. In fact, it has done a good job of not resetting it's stupid Eco Mode setting since I replaced that cable, too. For the first few days it seemed like everything I did would bring that idiotic setting back.

For color setting, I prefer YCBCR444 over RGB with televisions as a monitor. I think it offers cleaner/brighter colors without making dark scenes completely overwhelmed by black.
 
Thank you. I am inclined to leave it at that setting for now regardless of what the [H] setup thread says. It was for a 2015 TV anyway.

The cable I am using is a brand new 4 foot rocketfish 18gb 2.0 cable. If I keep having problems with the screen flashing on/off I am going to be tempted to take it back and replace it. Sure hate having to spend a lot on a more expensive monster cable but best buy doesn't have much else and I live in an area without a Fry's or a Micro Center. Limited options.

PS: I am leaving it on PC mode for now and plan on trying to game in that mode as well. If you have a KS8000 were you able to find a setup guide for settings in that mode as a PC monitor?
 
PS: I am leaving it on PC mode for now and plan on trying to game in that mode as well. If you have a KS8000 were you able to find a setup guide for settings in that mode as a PC monitor?

I actually have mine permanently in PC mode. I'm running everything through a Denon AVR so that I can take advantage of HDMI surround sound audio. I use the AVR receiver to toggle between HDMI inputs for my PS4 and Xbox, so the TV essentially sees them as a PC, too. If I toggle them 2-3 times I'll see game mode show up under the option list, but I haven't really noticed a ton of difference beyond the colorspace being different. Considering what the input times are for most large TV's, PC mode is still quicker than the vast majority of them.
As far as configuring it as a PC monitor, it doesn't take all that much work. Unlike the TV's from 5-6 years ago, the out-of-the-box settings aren't that far off anymore. I think I turned the backlight down to 12, Smart LED to "high," Color Tone to "normal," and enabled HDR for all inputs. Oh yeah, I also made sure that images would display fullscreen (sans over/underscan) in the TV menu, too. That's pretty much it.
For my PC settings, I just set the color scheme to YCBCR444 and configured my HDMI audio to be 7.1/HQ.
If you're using it as a HTPC, you can get a bit more granular with the settings in MPC-HC and/or madVR. Again, the defaults aren't that far from ideal, so you can be lazy, too.
 
Many thanks for the information. I know from the rtings review the screen was pretty close out of the box. It does seem a bit bright to me so I will try backing down on the backlight a hair.

I see there are some cables available on the internet that are highly recommended and (surprise) much cheaper than the rocketfish/BB cable. I may have to return that thing especially if I get another drop out and it goes black again.

On another note how do you clean yours? I have seen two articles from samsung and one mentions not using water unless the manual says so. The manual says nothing about cleaning. One of the two samsung articles mentions some product called "ScreenClean".
 
I have a static-free cloth that I've been using for years. It came with a PC monitor and I just keep using it. I just wipe the screen every month or so. If something were to splash on it (I have cats, so it happens) I've just used a paper towel with a spray or two of windex on it in the past.
 
4k your gona want sli. Titan is not enough for 4k with today's games.. yesterday's game you may be fine with a 1080.


not even close to true. I'm running doom 100% maxed out on my 1080 and it looks stunning. Even no mans sky with its settings cranked way up look great.
 
1080p compressed files in the 8-12gb neighborhood when played via MPC look OK. Expanded to fit the screen I knew there would be some quality sacrifice but I can see some noise. I downloaded the 4K demo for Tears of Steel and even it has some noise visible. Sit far enough back and its fine. Maybe I'm expecting too much.

Would be nice to find some true super high definition wallpaper. Most of what I've found for 4K is 1-2meg jpeg files. They are alright but honestly kinda meh. Does anyone have a URL for some true 4K windows desktops?
 
In general, 4K content is still lacking. There aren't that many 4K wallpapers. Outside of YouTube (mostly demos) and very new stuff on Netflix there isn't a ton of video content that isn't just upscaled. There's no way to play UltraHD Blu-Ray on the PC yet. It's still a new format that mainly gets use via gaming.
 
That was one of my questions. I have a blu-ray drive on my PC and an older version of PowerDVD that came with it.

Would I be able to play the 4K Pacific Rim blu-ray?
 
That was one of my questions. I have a blu-ray drive on my PC and an older version of PowerDVD that came with it.

Would I be able to play the 4K Pacific Rim blu-ray?

Unfortunately no. There's currently no way to read 4K Blu-Rays on a PC at the moment. I guess some drives can see the file structure, but they can't play the content or do anything with it. Cyberlink has said they have the ability to add functionality to PowerDVD 16 at some point, but they've been radio silent about that for months. There are no 4K specific PC drives either.
Right now the industry is at a bit of a crossroads on 4K Blu-Ray. It's awesome...but adoption has been slow because streaming is "good enough" for most people. Very few people have a setup that can truly take advantage of the superior video and almost nobody has an Atmos/DTS:X setup. Those are the people really clamoring for 4K disks at the moment. I'll admit to being one of them, but I tend to wonder how many of us there really are. I think the online communities of enthusiasts tend to be a very vocal but tiny minority.
 
Damn this monitor is blinking on/off on me again. I had thought the firmware update solved it. Apparently not. I have a monoprice cable on the way and I sure hope it solves this problem! Hard to believe the rocketfish cable which says 18gb is the issue but not sure what else it could be other than a bad display or a bad port on my 1080.

It is disappointing that I have no way of playing the 4K UHD discs without buying a $300 external player and hooking it up. Come to think of it though I'm not sure the SATA present on my Z77 motherboard would even be capable of delivering the necessary bandwidth to play one of those discs even if my drive were up to it. At this point no matter. The hardware and software isn't there for HTPC. :(
 
its worth a try, but the folks who developed vlc may be able to play the content. Starting with version 2.1 that says its 4K ready. I do not have experience trying to play 4k videos with VLC at the moment, but VLC is heavily developed and updated so its very possible it does: VideoLAN - VLC 2.1 Rincewind I know 2.2.4 is the latest release so start with that version first.

The other option is to bang around with ffmpeg.. ffmpeg does support h265 which is the 4k/8k spec. for what its worth, most of VLCs backend work is done via ffmpeg libs. ffmpeg is like the swiss army knife of audio video content. I wouldn't be surprised if most 4k content is actually transcoded used ffmpeg.

both are worth a shot, your mileage will vary, and both solutions maybe somewhat clunky.
 
MPC-HC will play 4K video files if you have one handy. For instance, this YouTube video has a link to an MKV copy (with HDR no less) of the Life of Pi trailer:
MPC-HC displays it just fine out of the box, but you'll need to download madVR to get HDR functionality...and it's not exactly perfect.
 
Streaming some of the 4K content has been challenging so far. Can take a very long time to buffer for me.

MPC has worked OK with the 4K demos I've tried. Trying to play a 4K blu-ray disc however is something wholly different. So VLC may actually be able to play that type of content? Seems like these issues will sort themselves out given enough time.

Either way hopefully the monoprice cable solves the blinking on/off issue because that is by far a more annoying problem than having to deal with inability to play some oddball 4K version of Pacific Rim.
 
Damn this monitor is blinking on/off on me again. I had thought the firmware update solved it. Apparently not. I have a monoprice cable on the way and I sure hope it solves this problem! Hard to believe the rocketfish cable which says 18gb is the issue but not sure what else it could be other than a bad display or a bad port on my 1080.

It is disappointing that I have no way of playing the 4K UHD discs without buying a $300 external player and hooking it up. Come to think of it though I'm not sure the SATA present on my Z77 motherboard would even be capable of delivering the necessary bandwidth to play one of those discs even if my drive were up to it. At this point no matter. The hardware and software isn't there for HTPC. :(

Z77 has native SATA 3.0 / 6G, so yeah, plenty of bandwidth.
 
Plenty? It takes almost all that a 18gbps interface (hdmi 2.0a) has to stream the signal from the video card over to the pc. Am I missing something? Seems like sata 3.0 wouldn't even be close.
 
That gives you about 500K/frame (14MB/s / 24 FPS)
Plenty? It takes almost all that a 18gbps interface (hdmi 2.0a) has to stream the signal from the video card over to the pc. Am I missing something? Seems like sata 3.0 wouldn't even be close.

4K and Beyond - Video Data Rates | VashiVisuals Blog

This page beaks it down pretty well, but the issue is this -- you're never going to see an uncompressed stream, not even close. That's talking in terms of stuff saved for editing, not distribution. RED's compression runs anywhere from 3:1 to 18:1. What you actually get on a disc is going to be somewhere in that range, probably on the more compressed side of it, maybe even moreso.

Based on what I've read of 4K BluRay, it's going to require minimum 50Mbps (bits, small "b") video quality. Even if they went with 10x that, SATA3 is good for 6Gbps, or 6000Mbps So... massive, massive overhead. SATA1 could handle 4K BluRay.

We're working within the limits of optical media here, as well. Even 12x read speed on BluRay would only give about 400Mbps read. 16x would get you 576 Mbit/s, or 72 MB/s. Well within SATA3 (again, even SATA1) spec. This is all assuming a disc that's dense enough to let you save a film at those bitrates and not have to switch discs one or more times. We don't yet have such a disc.

Based on what I've been able to glean just glancing around (I have no interest in discs personally and hadn't kept up with it) the new discs will only hold about 100GB. Assuming you get the average 2 hour film on there...

100GB / 120 minutes / 60 seconds = 0.013888 GB/s, or 13.888, call it 14 MB/s to be generous. That's 112Mbps. That gives you about 500K/frame (14MB/s / 24 FPS) for video and associated audio. Way, way, way below raw numbers.

The HDMI 2.0 link is post-decompression; that's the raw full frame, and also assumes a 60 FPS signal (needing the whole 18Gbps), while most film is still shot at 24 FPS.
 
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