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1/2" tubing performance

M

mark660

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 21, 2007
Messages
510
im trying to deside if i want to use the zalaman resorator 1 plus that i got for free and add a rad in the loop or just start from scratch and go with 1/2" tubing will i get much of a performance increase using the bigger tubing or should i save my money and just buy the rad and run the resorator for pump/res???
 
agreed, but mainly because while zalman makes some great air coolers, and some nice cases, their liquid line up blows ass.
 
was kinda thinkin that my self but still was pretty good for free...so custom it is then:Dby next week i will have the money to build it could u guys give me some ideas on wat brands to go with and water blocks etc.??first time watercooling price doesnt matter i want my temps as low as i can get them.
thanks.
 
CPU: D-tek Fuzion or the new EK Supreme.
GPU: Swiftech MCW60 for GPU-only or EK-brand for nice FC-blocks and no extra heatsinks that can fall of needed for FC-blocks.
NB/SB:Swiftech MCW30 or EK-brand.
Pump:Swiftech MCP 655 or DangerDen/Laning D5 Vario, same pump but more hardware come with the MCP655 The D5 is also mer reliable then the Laning DCC/MCP355 that needs a Petratop or other customtop to perform the best.
Res:EK or Swiftech microres.
Rad: Thermochill PA 120.3, the best rad with fans up to 100cfm and no overkill, just some headroom for future upgrade.
Thats basicly inc. tygontubing what i have here for my setup, only EK-NB missing.

Stay away from blocks that not is made of brass or copper.
 
The resorator 1 was a POS...... Version 2 was a large improvement but not meant to cool more than on device. If you want external and pre-built you can look at version 2, AC's Aquaduct 360xt, or the guy on xtreme that builds custom exterior solutions (name slips my mind).
 
R1ckCa1n said:
The resorator 1 was a POS...... Version 2 was a large improvement but not meant to cool more than on device. If you want external and pre-built you can look at version 2, AC's Aquaduct 360xt, or the guy on xtreme that builds custom exterior solutions (name slips my mind).
Click to expand...

WaterKeg III is what you meant. newls1 is the one who make them on XtremeSystems ;)

 
1/2" ID tube is an excellent upgrade but only if you have sorted the other basic ways to improve performance.
If for example you have the radiators inside your PC case, you will see a far greater drop in temps by putting the radiators outside the case than you will changing to 1/2" ID tube.
 
Nenu said:
1/2" ID tube is an excellent upgrade but only if you have sorted the other basic ways to improve performance.
If for example you have the radiators inside your PC case, you will see a far greater drop in temps by putting the radiators outside the case than you will changing to 1/2" ID tube.
Click to expand...


Actually going from 6mm to 1/2" tubing will net less than a 2c improvement.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Actually going from 6mm to 1/2" tubing will net less than a 2c improvement.
Click to expand...

It depends on the setup you are using.
ie
With external radiators the temps will be cooler, so a 2C improvement then is worth more (and harder to achieve) than a 2C improvement at higher temps using internal radiators.
Some water blocks work better with higher pressure, those will see a larger improvement.
A pump with high flow rate but low head height will benefit from wider pipes.

With 1/2" ID pipes you can easily connect a good car Heater Core as a radiator, these have very low resistance to flow and cool extremely well. They are pretty cheap too.
It would probably need fitting outside the case though.
 
I think 3/8 ID tubing is the sweet spot with current technology. I am personally running 7/16" ID tubing and it works fine, but if I were to do it over again, I'd probably go 3/8" ID.
 
Nenu said:
It depends on the setup you are using.
ie
With external radiators the temps will be cooler, so a 2C improvement then is worth more (and harder to achieve) than a 2C improvement at higher temps using internal radiators.
Some water blocks work better with higher pressure, those will see a larger improvement.
A pump with high flow rate but low head height will benefit from wider pipes.

With 1/2" ID pipes you can easily connect a good car Heater Core as a radiator, these have very low resistance to flow and cool extremely well. They are pretty cheap too.
It would probably need fitting outside the case though.
Click to expand...

You obviously didn't see the data given showing the temp difference from 1/4" to 1/2" tubing while using the same setup minus the tubing.

On a side note: Nobody uses heater cores these days since combining a CPU and GPU in a loop results in more heat load than the good old heater core can deal with.
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
I think 3/8 ID tubing is the sweet spot with current technology. I am personally running 7/16" ID tubing and it works fine, but if I were to do it over again, I'd probably go 3/8" ID.
Click to expand...

I fully agree. My current setup is with 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing and it work very well (easy to route tubing, not too big for the Fuzion barbs and nice look).

 
R1ckCa1n said:
You obviously didn't see the data given showing the temp difference from 1/4" to 1/2" tubing while using the same setup minus the tubing.

On a side note: Nobody uses heater cores these days since combining a CPU and GPU in a loop results in more heat load than the good old heater core can deal with.
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure this is true about heater cores. There are a few primary reasons for the transition from heater cores to specialized radiators:

1. Reduction in cost. When I started watercooling around 2001 or 2002, most of the radiators cost $100-$150. That is not to say some don't now, but a triple radiator from swiftech is around $50-$60 if memory serves me right.
2. Requirement of high pressure differential (and thus loud) fans. Generally heater cores are thick dissipation devices and require 38mm and generally loud fans to achieve a reasonable performance level. There are, of course, exceptions to this and you can have a fairly quiet operation.
3. The watercooling community going more mainstream. There are fewer people willing to build their own custom systems since there are reasonably affordable radiators available now. How often do people braze or solder on their own barbs anymore?
4. Dimensions. Heater cores are generally thicker than their radiator counterparts. Radiators are thus more suited for internal watercooling solutions.
5. Trend towards quiet computing. People don't care about 2C anymore, and want their systems quieter.

I remember reading a study done by swiftech a few years ago comparing the performance of radiators on the market with heater cores. The heater cores performed extremely well, and in certain conditions (i.e. high air flow) surpass the performance of same-sized radiators. Now, you need to take into consideration that radiators on the market now are more efficient, but not by a ton. They simply are more efficient than heater cores in low airflow conditions. You can use dinky Yate Loon fans on a 120.3 radiator, but try getting any reasonable performance with these fans on a heater core. Unless you double stack, you probably won't.

Now, I am not saying you should go out and get a heater core nowadays. In fact, I think a radiator is a better choice if you can spring for the extra $40 or so, simply due to quiet operation. Heater cores certainly can cope with modern day hardware, though.
 
mark660 said:
what kind of pump should i run if im running 1/2 tubing?
Click to expand...

If you insist on 1/2" barbs, do yourself a favor and run Masterkleer tubing (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD). It will be much easier to route, and will have a negligible impact on flow, and thus CPU temperature. Trust me, I've ran both, and there is no difference. If you don't believe me, look at the study Cathar did using the search engine.

As for the pump, the variable speed D5 will probably be your best choice. The lower power DDC is a good pump, but it is native 3/8" only. Some people put on their tops, but this voids warranty, and I've head more failure reports with people who do mod their DDC's.
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
If you insist on 1/2" barbs, do yourself a favor and run Masterkleer tubing (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD). It will be much easier to route, and will have a negligible impact on flow, and thus CPU temperature. Trust me, I've ran both, and there is no difference. If you don't believe me, look at the study Cathar did using the search engine.

As for the pump, the variable speed D5 will probably be your best choice. The lower power DDC is a good pump, but it is native 3/8" only. Some people put on their tops, but this voids warranty, and I've head more failure reports with people who do mod their DDC's.
Click to expand...

Ding Ding Ding!

We have a winner :D
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
When I started watercooling around 2001 or 2002, most of the radiators cost $100-$150.
Click to expand...

Enough said....... I used to run dual Dtek heater cores back in the day but today $50.00 gets a triple radiator that will blow it away. Hence the reason it is hard to recommend a heater core in 2007.
 
hmm lets see im running a thermochill Tripple rad the best one they make its the ThermoChill PA120.3
swiftech MCP650
dangerden RBX A64 Cpu block
DD Low profile MAze 4 GPU cooler on my 7900GTX
1/2id primoflex tubbing this stuff is very easy to bend and puts less stress on the blocks. cool sleeves help prevent pinching.

i can oc my opteron 148@ 3.1ghz w/ 1.7 volts
gpu OC @ 715/900

temps Idle 30-32 load 37-45. max ive seen with mbm is 46-47 at the 1.75 volts.

my cpu can do 2.9ghz stock volts and that puts my temps idle 27-28c 35 load.

Im currently only running 2 fans that run 130cfm max but with this rad and stock volts u can turn them down to a whisper and still have great temps. ALso note that my radiator is internal sitting on the bottom of my CM stacker case. but i may put it external on my next case cause this seems to be the only case with enough room for this monster radiator.
 
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