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I think you mean a fourth not half. I believe the spec for the 12v rail is 120.

I would of went for the SeaSonic X-650 for that price http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088

I can't answer your question but I have been running 7 (4x1tb RE3 and 3 1.5tb seagates) for almost two years now off one molex without issue.

Reliability and clean power and as far as my preferences go a picture is worth a thousand words.

I think you mean PSH not DSG.

In that review they used a Antec Signature 650 which is 20mm longer than the M12D.

Is there a reason why you have the fan down? In that case there is no bottom vent so you are basically cutting off any possible airflow through PS with or without the fan running. On mine it feels just slightly warm to the touch but with my setup I always have air flowing through it because of...

I would say the M12D would be well worth it. The problem you might have is the number of the cables that are permanently attached to it and it is aprox .75" longer. I have one in my A05B and it was hard to try and hide the two pci-e and 4 pin cpu cables.

Silverstone has them in a few models. I have 7 in my Fortress (I had to buy six of the CP05 adapters since it only comes with one ) and with all 7 installed it was a pain to get all the cables placed so the back panel would fit, but other than that they work great. You do have to remove the side...

A couple days ago I was bored and decided to see what I could be stable at with HT enabled since I run with it disabled normally (I have no programs I use that use more than 2 threads). With ambient of 73~75°f here is what I came up with. Vcore auto plus special add of 109% (which gave me...

Here are from my 1tb RE3 amd 1.5 Seagate.

I got mine here

PH said that the performance of the TDX with the #4 was almost the same as the RBX and want worth adding it to the graph for that reason.

Well heres my setup. Not quite a real home entertainment system but my setup for my bedroom for which it is quite capable (really needs HDTV). My HTPC P4 2.4C @ 3.5 IC7Max3 1GIG OCZ PC4400GOLD Ati 9800 AIW PVR350 TV tuner 2-PVR250 TV tuners (a total of 4 tuners) 2x200meg sata...

Depeding on your CPU block the MAG would probably give the better temps considering your small amount of radiator power. I doubt the extra flow the D5 would give could make up for the much larger heat dump.

Unless you changed it from the pics you are going into the outlet of the Storm and if you switch those tubes around you will get a large lowering of your temps. With the jet arangement of the Storm it needs the center as the inlet.

I believe it was mentioned earlier in the thread but it really looks like you have the inlet and outlet switched on your Storm. It really needs to be connected correctly to function properly.

Just being parrallel would make them seal less but they wont seal by the threads but by an o-ring which should give a better seal..

Here is a shot of what 12tpi looks like compared to 18 (sorry about the poor pic but only had the ability to transfer from my 6 year old cam to this puter). I just checked the 1/4 npt and that is also aprox 18tpi so I would guess you have the right adaptor.(dont know why I always thought...

They dont list threads per inch so cant know if its national fine or coarse.. I am fairly sure it would be national coarse (most all pipe threads I have see are on the course side) but without the tpi its just a guess. From what I have seen fine threads are mainly used when additional clamping...

I would guess 9/16 NC. Here is a link to the description of the Danger Den High Flow Fittings.

If it is using thier newer High-Flo fittings there is a good chance they will have straight 9/16ths threads and seals with an o-ring.

This is the one you mean Max http://www.cooling-masters.com/ Roscal does some fine work.

I agree with the GPU option but they really need to get rid of thier AL tops. I would get maze for the GPU as it stands now.

It looks like a BIPII with revised tanks for better bleeding (barbs located in the very corners) and possible different fins.

Not in a rad if its single pass. :)

Looks like a dual pass to me, inlet and outlet barbs both on the top.

Here is a link to one solutiom of the problem.

I believe it is techline that makes dyes for leak testing of fluids. Thier radiator coolant dye is yellow with a littlr green tint to it and shows quite well.

I would say the Swifty also but mainly because of the pump.

Thee is a post on EOC where someone did the the rad that way.

If you want to pull through the fan like you described, just reverse the fan in the front and it will acyually help the fan on the rad to pull air through it. Even tho the air going over the HDs will be a lil warmer it will still cool them fine with the amount of flow it will be.

Without knowing rest of your setup the Swiftech MCW6k series block may be the best choice. It performs very good at most any flow rate, which blocks like the TDX and Maze need a fair amount of flow to work decently.

Your case will be couple inches taller but basicly the same width and depth inside.

I have 2 1/8" from the top of the case to the 2nd drive. The inside dimentions of the case are 7 1/2" as close as I can measure with a full case. The problem even with the drive moved then becomes the power leads from the PS. Unless you can leave the top 2 open and move the core into the empty...

I think he means having a CD bay used and the distance between it and the PS. Om my Antec I dont have room for even even a BIX, my 120mm fan I have there clears with just 1/8" clearance on each side and about the same to the IDE and power cables of the drive on the bottom. My guess is it...

I agree the G5 and G4 are the best. From then on it really depends on the pump used. With a really srtong pump the WW, RBX and TDX would be close with the Swifty MCW6k series close. With a moderate pump and below the Swifty will perform better then those blocks. With a pump like the AQX...

Personally I would only consider two pumps if I were buying right now, the Laing DDC/MCP360 or the MCP600/AQX 50Z. I believe the MCP600/AQX 50Z would perform the best but the DDC should be withing 1°c and it is smaller, quieter and has a 50K hr MTBF which the MCP600/AQX 50Z does not have.

Personally I like the Zerex racing super coolant. It is designed to be mixed 90/10 with water to make the actual coolant with full corrosion protection where anti-freeze needs 50/50 for the same. Most other things are meant as additives to a 50/50 anti freeze. Swiftechs HydrX would be another...

It is the red dye from D-Tek and is UV but just barely. I cant find any decent pics I took with just the UV lights but will post the best one I can find.