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http://case-mods.linear1.org/how-to-invert-your-lcd/ How about that one? I checked and the latest source link seems to be a good one, so enjoy! (shout out to all you old school dudes)

I have a couple thoughts on the topic: http://case-mods.linear1.org/planning-your-acrylic-case/ http://case-mods.linear1.org/the-invisible-case/ http://case-mods.linear1.org/acrylic-lexan-and-plastics-faq/

Japala's is cool, but you have to know ahead of time if you want series or parallel, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't do combination series/parallel for you.

Well, if you do, you should have a look at this: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz (Wow, I haven't been around here in a while--mashie's a moderator now, good job! and hello to all the old school peeps) :D

Thanks, dude.

So I think we're agreeing, but I'm really not too sure. :confused:

So you probably skimmed past the part where I said too.

I can't see the back of the board, but consider this an educated guess, since I've done this mod a few times to similar Logitech mice. Check out the filter cap next to the power supply: I'll bet you a cold one that There's +5V across that cap if you measure with your multimeter. Pop it...

I didn't see the thread you're referring to, but I bet it was National Control Devices.

1/4" is no problem: http://www.delviesplastics.com/laser%20sheet.htm

9V doesn't make sense for a white LED. Even as a maximum rating. The white LED, unless it's a special application, should have a forward voltage around 3.3V @ 20 mA. I would recommend that you just use the white and blue LEDs as drop-in replacements for the current ones. The circuits driving...

One of the ideas of BTX is better cooling with fewer fans by careful thermal design. There's a "thermal module" specified so that there's always a fan blowing on the center of the motehrboard, and components are arranged to benefit from the cooling due to that placement.

First thing I noticed, actually. They're surprisingly slim in the cooling module zone, just a single crummy fan. I guess that's in keeping with the spirit of the BTX spec though.

I can see a V2000 in my future. Those casters are begging for some modding luv...

Well, the G5 fans should like it.

I got good results with Duplicolor. http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000156.php http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000157.php

Nope, it was a beige steel case originally. As for the gloss emerging, let's look at it like this: you start your finish sanding by flattening out all the orange peel with 400 grit. That leaves scratches. So you step up to 600 grit and sand at an angle ot the scratches. That removes the 400...

Mine took the dye real well. Check the red mouse cord.

I haven't sat down and thought about all the pluses and minuses, of the different approaches, but here are a few. The number one reason I like the voltage regulators: Short-circuit protection. They are tough critters to kill. There's thermal protection too. The main down side is the voltage...

How about 48 bux for a 4 foot strip heater? http://delviesplastics.com/STRIP%20HEATERS.htm

This ought to answer most of your questions: http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000136.php http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000161.php Also, phasmatis nox will be by shortly to tell you you should only consider Lexan.

Well at first glance it looks pretty damn impressive, and the price is right. However, I wonder just exactly how they arrive at 320W??? And where can I get some of what they are smoking???? Let's do the math: 3.3V * 10A = 33W 5V * 20A = 100W 12V * 6A = 72W I get 205W *if* you...

Without a power rating of about 5W (meaning a wirewound rheostat rather than a typical potentiometer) this doesn't work. Detailed discussion at the best fan control page around: http://www.cpemma.co.uk/rheo.html and the way you really want to do it: http://www.cpemma.co.uk/reg.html

Henri would be a good person to send one to. :D

I stand corrected.

That should work fine. IT may have less cut that some other types, but you'll get the fifnsh eventually.

>do some power supplies just do this not in my experience. >did i cross wire something? seems likely >when extending the cable, all i did was hook up colour to colour so all should be good right? seems that there's a problem. I don't even know how to tell you to proceed with...

Hmmm, didn't notice that. I'm pretty much dedicating mine to modelengine, with a BGMicro next to it to handle the title and other track info display.

Well, that's what I was gonna recommend you do... :p

All the cool software makes use of that blazing parallel speed though. Even if you could get the USB deal working, what program would you then run to do stuff with the display? Also: gratuitous 800A shots (for those wondering what the hell we're talking about): picture that flying...

I doubt it, but try a test piece.

You've definitely got the right idea. Like I point out in the article, The key to the mirror finish is flatness. I'd say you have a great start on that. From here out it will take a lot of patience--you need to sand every coat flat before applying the next one. For the primer that's a...

It's also pretty bogus (do the math: 30A * 27kV = 810 kW) He's right about the voltage anyway. Discharging a monitor without a resistance is kind of a bad idea. You will likely generate an arc that can damage componnents nearby. In a shop they'll use a probe that's grounded via a resistor...

You could go ahead and drill the four holes in your window to line up with the ones in the display, and use nice-looking cap-head screws to secure it. Take a cue from delbert and get some kind of tinted (preferably blue) filter in front of that rascal.

I don't have a lot to add, SarverSystems did a good job of answering all the questions. Vinyl dye has two big advantages: it doesn't build up the surface, and it's not prep-intensive. If you want gloss, use paint and clearcoat, period. And think about what you're gonna do with any embossed...

Reminds me of this: http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_55.html

I had good luck with duplicolor. http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000156.php http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000157.php The quality of the job is about how much care you take with the steps. Getting a paint shop to shoot it will cut down the time you spend sanding down orange peel...

Mice get a lot of wear. So the key to making the finish work will be + prep extremely well for proper adhesion + prime with the appropriate primer + apply your color coat very thin, the thicker you lay it on, the more likely to get chipping + same with the clearcoat, several very thin coats...

Near the bottom of this page is a list of other people's acrylic case projects. http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000136.php Some of the construction info may benefit your project as well.

Here's a few thoughts on the subject: http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000161.php