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I got an Asus Strix Claw a few weeks back and the mouse is absolutely amazing for my big claw gripping hands but it's having issues with the G440. I think the mousepad is a bit too shiny so it messes with the sensor. I pulled out an old mousepad that is made of a darker matte plastic and the...

Does anyone else find this monitor turns itself on? It's a major pain in the ass and I've had to resort to using a power bar that I flip on/off because this thing likes to randomly start itself up a couple times per week.

nvm wrong thread

If you have large hands and use palm grip then the g502 is IMO the best mouse on the market. I wish it was 15 - 20g lighter though, I had to actually increase the sensitivity in csgo because of it.

you can't even get a guaranteed perfectly uniform panel on $4000 LCD TVs, so pretty much don't ever expect it for LCD monitors. Also has anyone gotten this monitor to work in ubuntu? Mine is detected as a laptop and the max res is 1024x768

my panel is perfect, no dead pixels, no dust and the backlight/clouding is almost as pristine as my u3011 but the usb on the monitor stopped working... I don't want to risk playing the panel lottery again so I'm just going to keep it but it bums me out

no battery needed at all if you have it plugged in

yes you can but the cable it comes with is quite large and stiff as it has to be big enough to charge a battery I use a smaller more flexible one that I found laying around

hopefully it's better than the mx performance I really just want them to remake the mx 1100, that was the most comfortable daily use mouse I ever had

I had the roccat kone xtd optical and it's a great mouse for palm grippers with large hands but then I tried the logitech g700s and really liked it. I ended up just buying a really flexible micro usb cable for it and it's great even though its a laser mouse.

I bought a kone XTD optical back in October, and it was only very recently that the mouse finally started feeling natural in my hand. That was well over 150+ hours of gaming to break it in. I don't remember my other mice taking this long. Maybe it's because I used my other mouse for like 8...

I picked up an acx 2.0 ftw on the 8th and the card is dead silent, in PS2 and csgo at least and ive had no issues with coil whine haven't tried overclocking it yet though

If you want temps comparable to the 2500k, you'll need to delid the cpu and put on some liquid pro. I saw a ~30°C drop in temps after I delided.

I didn't want to put up with the sound of the fans rubbing/grinding when they were above 70% anymore.

The card under heavy load was getting atrocious 75°C+ temps with that cooling system. At one point it was 84°C with the fans spinning above 80 percent. Those fans aren't quiet by any stretch either and the fan had a grating rubbing sound when it was above 70%. Was pretty pissed about it tbh...

+1 for vice grip method. I've done both and the vice grip is just so much faster and safer.

If want superb temps then you need to delid.

This is normal because intel decided to stop using solder between the cpu die and the IHS. If you want the good water cooling temps, you'll need to delid the cpu and then replace the TIM, preferably with liquid metal. I was getting very similar temps as you with my 3770k at 4.5ghz/1.255v and...

oh, makes sense, anyways those fans come in 120mm too.

I thought the UT60 only fits 120mm (12 cm) or 140mm (14 cm) fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553007 these are really good fans that don't make any extra sounds when undervolted and they are very quiet, performance is almost identical to GT. Heard lots of complaints about the sound of GTs when they are undervolted, free shipping...

I though by law only the fed govt could offer flooding insurance. Priv insurance is only for damage from water backing up.

won't your CC help with it? If you show the claims person the offer, the statement that you bought the card on, and then vendor's refusal to honor it, the CC company should be able to do a charge back for the rebate amount.

I switched from the mcp350 because I could hear a faint, high pitched whine coming from it. I went to a MCP655 (swiftech brand D5) and it's perfect. Even at speed 5 I can't detect it at all, I just hope it lasts longer than the two the OP had.

liquid pro between the cpu and IHS forms a bond after a certain amount of time which is fine because if you apply it properly you'll never have a reason to take the IHS off again dont use it between ihs and cooler

Don't do the knife method, it's too dangerous and esp with these new chips that have even more shit that you can break. vice + block of wood + hammer is faster, easier and FAR safer than the knife method. Just have a second person there to hover over the chip with a towel in case it decides...

it was a second question I had about whether putting a temp sensor between the cpu and block is a bad idea and shortly after logic made the answer obvious.

nvm

I have 5 non-pwm fans. Is there a fan controller available that plugs into cpu fan header and sets the voltages for the 5 fans based on the pwm signal?

Just an FYI, putting together the raystorm block wrong really fucks with temps. I had the groved copper plate installed perpendicular to the water flow

I unscrewed the rads and moved them around and got all the air out of all the components, there was no sloshing when I shook them. I installed all my pc parts and the peak temps under water cooling are the same as air cooling. the pump is loud too, the hum of the motor is probably twice as loud...

the res and one rad are both mouted to the roof of the case

I have an mcp350 pump, 2 240mm rads, raystorm block and a single bay res that is above the pump. I have tried filling it about 5 times now and everytime it seems like each rad is half filled with air. As I move the case around I can hear the water sloshing around in them. Is this a sign of a...

The ideal choice of fan is the gentle typhoon AP-13, but the only problem is you can't buy them anymore. The next best option, and IMO the fan of choice for many people in the future is the cougar vortex 1200 rpm fan. The AP14 and AP15 are too loud at base 12v levels and lots of people find...

I'm thinking of getting a 290 and an accelero, but my plan will be to cut the cooling plate off the reference cooler and use that for the ram and VRM cooling. Anyone know of a guide that shows how to dremel off AMD cooling plates?

Wait until the the amd cards come with better coolers at least. Personally, I'm never buying another leaf blower from amd or nvidia again.

what you can do is take a dremel and cut the plate off of the reference cooler and then use that plate instead of the heatsinks that the accelero comes with

Yes I have, I installed one on my 7970 and the temps the VRM temps went above 110C. I reinstalled and the same thing happened so I did some research and found this was not unusual. I put on the ref cooler and the VRM never got close to 110. If you look at the VRM cooling on the windforce or...

you're brave, I simple dont trust the heatsinks that accelero provides for cooling the VRM

some of us really like silent pcs