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dual rad??? no way. go for a quad... sorry - I just have to throw that out to scare the neighbors every now and then. Actually, that is a tough question to answer without more info -- what kind of heatload are you dealing with (i.e. what are you overclocking, to what speeds are you OCing...

hmmm..actually, I think that would be the best per square inch as opposed to the one that effects OC ability the most (i.e. the lowest overall temp for the coolant and core/best overall heat dumping capacity). That can be overcome with airflow...an 80 x 80 rad could trump anything available if...

aite - I'll probably just have to order one at some point. I hate trying to build anything from spec sheets alone as there is always something on the actual piece of hardware that is not obvious from the specs...that one never fails. The BIX2 is a perfect example - from the specs you could never...

first, biohazard -- thanks for the diagram and the pics - very helpful. I have a BIXII here that I have been playing with for some time and I have a shroud that is almost worked out for it. My primary concerns with that one and long screws are the positioning of the flow channels. Usually, at...

hmmm...the sides couldn't have much of an angle as the rad is roughly the width as a 120mm fan and not much more than 240mm in height on the core. Anyone have a good pic of the front of one of those rads without fans on it? In any event, it doesn't look like it would be much of a problem with a...

are you talking about the MCR-220 dual 120 radiator that is in the extreme duty apex kit like this one? http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-APEX.asp since we're throwing eyecandy around, here are some weapon monsters... blue:

The fans are definitely more effective when mounted to the outside of the shroud. We designed the shroud so that the standoff between the shroud and the face of the core (i.e. the fins) would be just a bit over 40mm which is a fairly good balance between space concerns and optimal airflow. All...

summer normally gives me a double whammy --- my caseload goes way up as people seem to enjoy going to court in summer for some reason and the demand for H2O gear takes a noticable jump as well -- as such, I have been hammered. :eek: sorry for any delays in pm responses - this summer has...

check out the PSU on top of the cabinet (the PSU is the big honkin' silver box that has a handle on it like a briefcase)- 1500 watts...it won't fit in a v2000. :) ok - i admit it - i cheated by digging up a PSU that is about 1/2 the size of a standard midtower case. :D

the BIP2 is usually better than the BIX2 for low airflow situations as its fins do not have as much airflow resistance as the BIX2 -- hence, you can use quiter/lower cfm fans and still get decent airflow through the rad.

Eagle One Cast Aluminum Wheel Cleaner from Advance Auto, Autozone, etc. -- the kind that says "Not for use on clear coated wheels!" - it is acid. Spray it on, wait 20 seconds, rinse off and dry it. $5 for a spray bottle about the same size as a large spray bottle of window cleaner. The most...

the job is forcing me to be out of town on ultra short notice until this Friday (June 10). I have no idea what kind of internet access I will have on the road but if there is any available, I'll try to check in at least a couple of times before I get back. weapon--

i ran into that with my shrouds - a lot of people wanted to mount a 77 b'ville with shroud in the lower front of the case -- in some stackers it would drop right in but in others they had to shave a couple of mm off of each side of the shrouds mounting lip. That was a big "WTF??" as all of the...

the mag 3 is the one that has been most often used in H2O cooling with the mag2 and mag5 running somewhere a bit behind in common usage. the danner pumps were used fairly heavily about 4 years ago (wow...time flies) and a decent number of pros and cons surfaced when a larger part of the H2O...

no - the fins are only painted on the very edges. The paint goes no deeper than the solder line that is already on the fins so if there is a decrease in performance it is so little that I cannot measure it with a bench thermometer that has .01 resolution and ±0.2°C accuracy.

I wouldn't worry about it too much -- I normally use an original version of the RLQO which moves about 1140 gph at 0' of head and is rated to move around 714 gph through 1" tubing at six feet (IIRC). The RLQO has an isolated wet rotor which was designed to keep it from dumping heat into the...

lol...those are the craptacular default '70's era arrows that are in PSP 7 - i was too lazy to break out photoshop. :p as for the internals on the core - yes, there is a lot more to them than meets the eye. The fins that are used to transfer heat from the water to the air have a series of...

not necessarily all cross section pics but a few of a core dissection: 77 b'ville with the top removed - the slits are the channels for waterflow: closeup of the water flow channels: this is what you see if you peel back the solid sections on the top of the core: arrows on the...

check under block accessories at danger den - click on the brass top conversion kit and you will find this quote straight from DD: "This kit converts the TDX Lucite top to a brass top - the most reliable setup." clear tops crack -- such a high percentage of them fail over time that a number of...

yes, there is a bit of a performance gain from it - it is not one that will blow your socks off or anything but it is definitely there. I am not entirely certain on the pricing as they are still in development. I built several similiar enclosures some time ago and I am still halfway...

^look at the middle section of the shroud between the fans. :) lol. I wish we could have left that sucker out because having them welded in place (or any other solution we could think of) makes shipping them in large numbers a pain. With the dividers, they won't stack so they have to be...

first one is a 302 (77 b'ville with ac) - check the overall dimensions, the number of fin rows and the tank design. dd core is a 199 (77 b'ville without ac) overall dimesions are a giveaway as well as the number of fin rows...plus, I had to work on one not that long ago and it still had the GDI...

scrap that *&^@#$^ clear top for the water block and get a brass one. In the alternative, have someone make one from delrin for it. heatexchangers...I will resist the temptation to post the monstercore pic for once. :)

1.5" is by no means excessive. Measure the width of a fan hub on almost any 120mm x 38mm fan (which is the cause of the airflow dead spot under each fan) and you will see why 1.5" of standoff is much better than .5" examples: panaflo - 2-1/4" sanace - 2-1/4" Delta - 2-1/8" Nidec Beta V...

bumpage. new gear will be posted soon. :)

the shrouds in the above pics were the prototypes - the new design is a bit different. It looks like this: I'll PM you regarding the answer to question 1. :) 2. We are currently working on a single 120 shroud for the chevette core that will be much like the dual 120 shroud in overall...

for starters, there are 2 different cores that were used on the 77 b'ville: Fedco 2-302 (GDI #399078) = 77 b'ville with ac Fedco 2-199 (GDI #398219) = 77 b'ville without ac That is an important distinction as they are totally different sizes. 302= 10.75" x 5 5/8" x 2" core 199= 9.5 x 6...

which accelerator nozzle are you using? I have a RBX that I tested not too long ago (brass topped with 1/2" fittings). With the #4 nozzle and with an original RLQO forcing water through it the temps were very impressive..

it is mega-restrictive but if you can find a pump that is capable of moving 1.25 - 1.5 gallons per minute through it, it will beat just about anything but Cathar's G4 and G5... http://www.3dcool.com/Details.asp?cid=29&id=819

"the only 120mm fans i had laying about are different cfm ratings..one is 45 or so..the other is about 65 or 75" it's probably related to the cfm rating of the fans. with dual 102cfm san aces, I get almost identical temps in push or pull mode but pull is a bit quieter.

try upping your shroud standoff to 1.5" and adding a divider between the fans...

thanks. I build a block now and then just to play around with different ideas that pop into my head. lol - if it is for cooling, I think I have built it at one point or another. slightly off topic examples: weapon evap: and the other part of the phase change system: :)

not very good pics but here they are: block in progress...not soldered but brazed. finished: hmmm....can't find the pics of the internals.

you should have a response now. By mounting with fans at the top of the case (just to make sure I am not misreading the question) you mean they would be arranged like so: case top fans shroud core correct? The shroud was designed to be mounted to the case as pictured here...

they were briefly gone while I restocked - but they're back now with additional ones for other cores. :)

hmmm....I thought I had responses sent to all PMs :confused: - definitely resend the PM.

very nice work topcat989 it looks a lot like the one I silver soldered copper side panels onto: core modding... info on torching and otherwise modding: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=304440 info on torch or JBWeld method: http://www.ocmodshop.com/ocmodshop.aspx?a=228...

18 gauge steel with seem welded corners and a welded divider plate will handle mounting pressure and weight fairly well. I can stand on mine (no small claim for the strength of the shroud - I am 6'4" 220lbs+)

thanks guys :) I am getting caught up but I still have a bit of delay time in shipping. Also, I have been working on a few new toys so hopefully I will get enough time to get some info up on those soon.