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Tacking onto this thread as I am also looking for a good backup solution. I was using a 1.5TB HD in an enclosure connecting via esata. But I've had trouble with the JMicron drivers on my P8Z68V-Pro (ver 1) and esata has not worked for a while. So I'm leaning to a USB 3 solution. I'd like at...

I put the MX100 in the comparators. It didn't look bad at all. But some of the reviews I read were not favorable. Of course I don't have links for that at hand. I looked at a bunch of SSDs in the comparators. In my usage, I'll bet most any would be satisfactory. I really wanted a 512GB drive...

Thanks. I would really like that 500GB 840 EVO, but the price is just too high. Putting these on the Anandtech bench comparator, I think the 840 Pro 256GB will be my choice... and mainly for the 5 year warranty over the 840 EVO 256GB 3 year warranty. I figure that might be worth the ~$28...

My Intel X25-M (80GB SSD) is simply too small for my OS and programs drive. There are simply too many programs that don't give me the option to set them up and direct the data files to my storage drives. Ergo, the little 80GB drive ends up with under 5GB free space all too often and I have to go...

That appears to be another tool I need to add to my toolbox. ;)

dbiker207, That worked like a champ! I installed Win7/64 on a new 256Gb SSD and changed the original config from a 1TB spinner cached via IRST/RAID with a 64GB Corsair M4 that had become disfunctional. I was left with the old Win7 installation on the original spinner and couldn't figure out...

Good points. Thanks!

Thanks Tom. I appreciate your help. Good point about the old BIOS chip. Since you're on a roll, how about a few driver installation questions? Do I need to update the MEI driver and firmware? The Asus site is far outdated on the driver issue when comparing to...

Good news! The new BIOS chip (3603) arrived yesterday. I swapped out the chips this afternoon and the PC boots up just fine now on the new Samsung 840Pro SSD. A few tweaks to the new BIOS (leaving most everything stock) and now I'm off to update the chipset and other drivers before beginning...

I sort of think the boot device LED is trying to tell me something. I just not sure what. And that's with all drives disconnected and only 1 stick of ram installed. About as bare-bones as you can get while still inside the case. I hope the new BIOS chip fixes everything. ;)

Hopefully, I won't have to reflash the new BIOS chip that's inbound. That's a sneaky issue to have when you've had successful BIOS updates in the past. I appreciate the info about the double flash and will have to read over that again, just to educate myself. I used a USB stick formatted...

Son of a gun. Even if you don't have an IB chip? Well, hopefully the new BIOS chip will have 3603 on it and it will be good to go. Do the latest LGA1155 offerings by Asus require a double flash for BIOS updates? I haven't been in the mobo business lately. LGA1155 is probably dated anyway.

I did not double flash the BIOS. I previously flashed the BIOS for this board (and also my V-pro board) when I first built the systems. No double flashes... successful BIOS updates in both cases (1101 for my V pro, 0902 for the V). So unless the 3603 BIOS is somehow unique requiring a double...

I'm wondering if I should order a new BIOS chip (~$15) or if the mobo itself is bad? Any way to determine?

Back on this project, I replaced the CMOS battery, no change. I pulled out 3 sticks of ram leaving one stick, no change. I unplugged all drives, no change. I plugged back in the original drive configuration, no change. The LED boot device remains on, every time, regardless of the above...

Thanks Tom. I'll get back to thIs later. I'm away right now. For the record, I have an intel ssd as my boot device on my p8z68v-pro (gen1) and no issues. This V board was great in cache mode with the m4 ssd until something happened, probably well over a yer after the build. I've been slow to...

NO beep codes. No beeper on the mobo, that I know of. ;) I just checked the onboard LEDs and would have sworn they were all off. But I just noticed that the boot device LED is staying lit. The cpu, memory, vga light up and go out, but the boot device led stays on. Well shucks. Not sure...

No. I just ran the update, same as I did when I got the board initially. I've successfully updated BIOS files from Windows (AI Suite), from the BIOS itself, from EZ Flash.. never a problem before. Guess there's always a first time. New BIOS chip? Never thought about that. I'll have to Google...

Hmm. I see what you're saying. I think. But if I put the M4 back in place of the 840Pro, I don't see how that will work. The PC has to boot through the BIOS before it can get to the drive, right? And the M4 was only there to cache the spinner drive under RAID and boost performance (which it did...

Unfortunately, I can't get into the old system. I have the components, but the original system was set up with a 64Gb Corsair M4 SSD caching the 1Tb Hitachi spinner using IRST in a RAID configuration. The cache drive somehow became dissociated, and after re-associating the drive, the system...

Uh oh. That does not sound like good news. Edit: looking at the Asus site, that appears to be the same file. http://www.service.asus.com/#!downloads/c1wax ???

Yes, the KB is wired (USB) and is plugged into a USB/2 port on the rear of the mobo. I got the update files from here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1042186/asus-z68-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-4-22 It indicates the BIOS is for Win7/8.

I have a 2 year old P8Z68V mobo that had BIOS 0902 on it. The computer was having some issues (64Gb M4 caching a 1Tb Hitachi via IRST in RAID). So I replaced the Corsair M4 SSD with a new Samsung 256Gb 840 pro in AHCI mode and installed Win7/64. Before doing anything further, I elected to update...

Yes, the 840 Evo (TLC) vs the 840 Pro (MLC) for about $50 more. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384607590&sr=8-1&keywords=840+evo+250...

Yes, I already updated it from 0009 to the latest 070h. Early on, I considered using the SSD as the OS/programs drive. But at the time I built it, SSD prices were still pretty steep. And while the machine is somewhat local, I did not want to be in a position of having to keep a close eye on it...

A couple of years ago I built a nice system for a friend: 64Gb Crucial M4 SSD (cache drive with IRST) 1TB Hitachi spinner for Win7 and programs 1TB Samsung spinner for backup i5-2400 cpu with 16GB ram Corsair case and 650w psu Asus P8Z68V (BIOS 0902) media drive and optical drive, etc. I've...

I updated the firmware on the SSD from 0009 to 070H, but no change. I'm starting to think this is going to required a format and reinstall of Win7. Might as well update the BIOS while I'm at it. I have no idea what has become scrambled. It really went unstable after I reassociated the cache...

Hadn't heard about that. Definitely worth looking into. But I don't think that would explain why the BIOS is not giving the option of C:\ or D:\ as a boot drive. Unless that's a function of the RAID setting in BIOS (needed to run the SSD as a cache drive in IRST). Admittedly, this build is...

No, I haven't tried that yet. Is there any risk of data loss doing this? I'm not that familiar with RAID so I'm not exactly sure what the risks are of resetting to AHCI mode are. Then resetting back to RAID so as to enable the SSD cache drive.

I built a nice rig for a friend a couple of years ago: Asus P8z68V mobo (BIOS 0902 - old now) Core i5-2400 CM Hyper 212 plus cooler - dual fans 16 Gb PC3-10666 GSkill Ripjaws ram Corsair Carbide 400R case and 3 case fans Corsair HX650 PSU Crucial M4 64Gb SSD (cache drive, setup in RAID) Hitachi...

I see most all your HW listed but your PSU. Have you checked your PSU to make sure it's working properly?

I can't answer your question, but looking at your specs in your link, your HD temps seem awfully warm to me. In contrast, my two internal spinners run 75*F (25*C) and 77*F(27*C) and my external drive runs 99*F(37*C). I wonder if your system might benefit from some additional cooling.

I need to replace my under 3 year old Canon MX860 which died unexpectedly recently. I printed a page, went back to the computer to select another page to print, hit the print button and.... nothing. Looked at the printer and no lights were on, nothing. It was like someone pulled the power cord...

Not every stick of RAM has an XMP profile.

I'm not seeing any reason to upgrade from 1101 on my Gen 1 board. I initially didn't want to take the time to reset to default specs and do the upgrade. Now I'm really glad I didn't else I might have been in the same boat.

Try some smaller negative offset values like -0.015 or -0.020 and see how that works. Negative 0.030 is a lot. If you do a manual voltage, you will end up losing your low idle voltage. On my i5-2500k, I use a negative 0.015 offset and see idle voltages in the 1.0v +/- 0.1 or so with some...

Not necessarily. Change one of your C states from auto to on. (assuming SST is enabled in BIOS) I run hi-perf power options with Win7/64 and my cpu throttles appropriately.

If you used the Marvell ports (dark blue), it won't work. If you used the Intel 6 Gb/s ports (gray) and it didn't work, I have no idea.

I'm also using a 4.4 GHz OC with an offset of negative 0.015. My vCore range is:

CG, I wasn't responding from a personal attack perspective, but trying to point out why a blanket statement that onboard video is a waste is incorrect. Now if you said it is a waste for me in your original statement, I would have no argument with that. No worries. ;)