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I see your schwartz is as big as mine.

They do make LED replacements for incandescent lamps too... For example: Digikey page The type of lamp you are looking for is called a festoon. Here is a site that has just what you are looking for: Automotive Festoon Lamps

As long as the arbor on the hole saw isn't larger the the chuck. ie: 1/2 arbor and 3/8 inch chuck wont work.

Use heatshrink to insulate your solder splices. Just ship it on before soldering, do your work, then slide it down over the splice and shrink it up.

Used both Solidworks and Inventor. I prefer inventor, but that could be due to an extensive background in AutoCAD

This is why I lock mine in a cast hobby box. No fire will escape!

A little black silicon adhesive will do the trick.

Gives added security. Plus, when shrinking the ends of sleeving, it wont slide off and it will hold onto the wiring.

Heat gun is the best way. Also, spend the extra few cents and get the epoxy filled heatshrink.

I'd stay away from the leadacid type. They are bulky, slow to charge, and prone to leakage. Go with a NiMH pack, or as a second choice NiCd.

Here is what I do. I buy batteries from this guy all the time: All-Batteries Outlet Now with these I build my own battery packs. They are rechargable which is great. If you don't wan to build your own packs, they also sell pre-assembled packs. Preassembled 12V pack I also picked...

No need to bring in a second 12V line. Just connect the switch around the resistor. Current will take the path of least resistance and the resistor will be ignored when the switch is on. When the switch is off and the path is broken, current will move through the resistor.

How did you seal the mating surfaces of the water blocks and radiator?

Thanks shadow!

Microcontrollers I got. That is kind of what I was thinking. The project I am working on already has two basic stamps in use. I also have a drawer full of 16F84's which could be used. Was thinking a simple clock circuit could be used if I could find the respective pins to use...

Purty!

Move the heads. I'd like to do it without having to hook it up to my mobo. I thought about cycling power on and off, but I think the life of the drive would be severely shortened.

I have an old drive that I am in the process of modding windows into the top and sides. The drive is dead and is only going to be used for visual effects. My question is has anyone seen or done a small electronic circuit to fake harddrive activity? I could do it in VB, but I don't want to be...

You're talking only like 6 to 12 inches right? Just whack the cable apart a few inches behind the mobo plug, splice/solder/hs a few chunks of wire in and you are ready to rock and roll.

6-32's I think.

http://www.pctoyland.com/ http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ http://www.cablecrazy.com http://sharkacomputers.com

Typically headphones go bad where the cable enters the ear piece or where it exits the jack. Should be simple enough to pull the ear piece housing apart and check the connections.

Hmmm, probably something similar to the BS1 from Parallax I suspect. Any chance we could get a picture?

My personal favorite: www.newark.com They seem to have the largest selection I've found. Plus they carry alot of OEM automotive style switches.

I like it. Anyone seen a sticker price for it?

Just give them a call, they will ship anywhere. I luckily work just down the street from one of the shops so I just pickup what I need. The modders mesh from mnpctech.com is the 1/4" HEX Carbon Steel, 9/32" Stag, 22 Gauge. I like to use the 1/4" HEX Aluminum, 9/32" Stag, 20 Gauge. On my...

Check this place out, lot of different styles to choose from. www.gratingpacific.com

Run fdisk on it in at boot. Delete/repartion and format. Should work then.

Check this out: www.pad2pad.com They provide the software free for desiging the board, will even place the components for you, and provide free quotes.