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Nice, glad you were able to get it!She's alive! I'm going to see how she overclocks. Temps are good, though I'll likely take her apart again to put on the cover. It was just the fuse. Gigabyte RMA can eat it.
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The picture is just at a weird angle, it's still maybe a cm or two away from the fuse. Still, it wasn't an easy repair with just a 20x magnifying glass and a 60V soldering iron with a somewhat fine tip. I tried with 350W hot air, but the solder on it wouldn't melt. I pretty much had to clip it off, then solder as little as I could on the ends with the soldering iron. It's still a bit too raised.That fuse is way too close to that other smd thing. Good job!
those things have fuses?The picture is just at a weird angle, it's still maybe a cm or two away from the fuse. Still, it wasn't an easy repair with just a 20x magnifying glass and a 60V soldering iron with a somewhat fine tip. I tried with 350W hot air, but the solder on it wouldn't melt. I pretty much had to clip it off, then solder as little as I could on the ends with the soldering iron. It's still a bit too raised.
Yeah, probably to protect the motherboard more than anything. A short on one of those vrms is pretty spicy.those things have fuses?
Good to know that is working!
Is this because 12v can reach other pc components through pcie slot?Yeah, probably to protect the motherboard more than anything. A short on one of those vrms is pretty spicy.
LoL slitIs this because 12v can reach other pc components through pcie slit?
As well as the NPCs following it.You know that connector is going to die soon. I was told by the bot here at this very site.
I recommend re-doing this with Thermal putty. Good putty performs better than the best pads or stacked pads. And there will be no stress on the board. And then put some PTM on the GPU die.Not the best job in the world, it's been decades since I've repaired electronics equipment, and now that I'm older, my eyes aren't what they used to be. Everything's a lot smaller now, and I don't have the best equipment. I ended up putting hi-temp masking tape between the new fuse and the graphics card cover just in case. There's only a slight bend now near the Displayport/HDMI connector end, but the PCIe slot is straight.
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I think the Gigabyte OEM thermal putty is what caused the bending in the first place. There's no stress on the board with the thermal pads, I tested it to make sure it was touching the heatsink without having too much to cause bending. They're Arctic TP-4 pads, if not better than Thermal Grizzly, they're at least on par. Temps are cooler than any of the stock RTX 5070 Ti's that have come through. I may do a thermal test with thermal putty vs thermal pads in the future, but I'm good for now.I recommend re-doing this with Thermal putty. Good putty performs better than the best pads or stacked pads. And there will be no stress on the board. And then put some PTM on the GPU die.
There are cheaper options. But.....I typically just pay extra for Thermal Grizzly stuff, now. Phasesheet for the die and their "Advance" putty for everything else. The 100gram bottle will be enough for at least 2 GPUs. Maybe 3. They are doing 10% off on Amazon right now, as well.
Additionally, padding the backplate makes a negligible difference, with the current VRAM modules. I would at least take those pads out.
Maybe. If it were dropped, I think there would be more damage to the card. Aside from a bent heatsink cover (which was easily bent back), and a bent PCB (which was straightened), the only issue was a blown fuse. I could not effectively bend the PCB straight until after I removed the putty.lol
putty did not bend that card, it was clearly dropped.
Makes sense. The connector end right now is the only part preventing me to completely straigthten the PCB out. I guess I am lucky nothing else got damaged. Luck has never been on my side.it landed on the connector end, its clear from your pics.
damn lucky it still works.