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I sit a bit over an arm's length away, and I've got gorilla arms. I find that to be totally comfortable with this thing for desktop use.
I need a lot of width space, as I need to open a lot of windows. At 4K, I can do 3 windows at 1440 wide. But 3 windows isn't enough, and some application at 1440 is not wide enough. So I don't have a lot of choice
20.5" high sounds like a 42-43" 16:9 4k monitor or TV. My outgoing/dead 43" 16:9 ratio 4k screen was about 103 pixels per inch, so pretty close to the 100dpi standard. 57" Samsung G9 is about 140ppi, and the 52" Dell U5226KW I have is about 129ppi. So yes, everything is smaller at the same distance. You can plant your face in a screen and make things appear bigger. So get the degrees per pixel about even with a 100ppi screen at normal distance. With the heavily curved Samsung G9 you may well be basically in the monitor and have to turn your head a lot to use the whole thing for work/desktop/productivity jobs. My Dell screen is barely curved and I can't see that working. High PPI can be ok if you have good eyes. I've been running the 129ppi Dell 52" with scaling off at roughly the same distance I used my previous 43" 4k screen at. I've increased font sizes in some apps, but other than that it's ok for me. Not so good eyes? That's me outside of the 1.5-4' range. I need glasses for driving since my long distance vison has gotten fuzzy and readers for anything really close up. 2.5-3' to a monitor? My vision is perfect. You know how as you age your eyes get worse at focusing? Before my early 40s I didn't need glasses at all. Now I'm nearly 50 and spent almost my entire adult life staring at a screen most of the day M-F so I'm not surprised my eyes seem to be slowly getting focus locked on monitor distance.
I run into a lot of that at the office. I have a "hybrid" schedule we book desks at the office rather than having a permanent assignment. At any rate it's common to sit down at a desk I used last week and find everything completely rearranged. Someone who tends to use this one particular desk likes the monitor as low and far away as it can go. My guess is whoever it is wears progressives or bifocals and wants that monitor in the "distance" range for their glasses. So how much PPD you can handle has a lot to do with your eyes and corrective lenses, if any. I'm good with doing a face plant in a 130DPI screen, but whoever uses that desk I like at work obviously doesn't want to sit too close, and the office monitors are a little over 100DPI. If I get to the point where computer distance isn't so good the first thing I'll try is the same thing you're doing - get out my tape measure, see just how far my screen is from my head, and get an eye doc to come up with a prescription for single vision lenses set for that distance. For now I don't need glasses if I'm sitting up straight, and somehow my very first pair of glasses work great if I want to lean way back. I got them in 2019, just kinda walked into a Lens Crafters not knowing what I was doing and ended up with an ugly pair of frames since they were the only ones I could find that were comfortable. I have a big, thick Neanderthal skull apparently. Now I know better and just order my frames from Fatheadz.com.
I run mine with MacOS with an effective desktop space of 5760x1620. This is the 3840x1620 + 1920x1620 HiDPI option that it maxes out on for Macs. It has to be run in PbP mode to achieve this, but on Windows you can just run it via one input and 125% scaling seems pretty spot on for 6144x1728 desktop area.
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The bigger issue is that once you have your TV on a stand or mounted, it just becomes really awkward to get to the ports no matter what. So a breakout box makes sense and probably causes no real issue if it wasn't wireless. I think most people want to hook up an AV receiver/soundbar, games consoles, maybe a BluRay player or PC. Being able to connect those without fiddling around with the back of the TV is real nice. Then you just stuff the breakout box somewhere out of sight.
The point is that manufacturers might see a breakout box as a value adding feature, but doubling ports as an unnecessary expense.
On my LG CX the ports on the side and back can be reached, but they are definitely hard to see the way they are mounted, with not a whole lot of space to my speakers to fiddle in the back. The one HDMI port poking out from the back is also really crap design.
This is pretty much what I do. I never needed dummy plugs on my AV receivers, but used TV -> optical -> old Denon, and now use TV -> HDMI eARC -> Onkyo receiver. Only my Nintendo Switch is connected to the Onkyo because I'm wary of input lag from receivers. The old Denon adds a lot of it. The Onkyo seems to be a non-issue.
Yeah and that's probably the dumbest port choice as well since it's pretty rare. But it doesn't seem to help much with the TV having like twice the input lag of a typical 4K TV.
I had the Samsung CRG9 at one point and you are totally right, the 57" is an upgrade in every way. The larger dual 32" 16:9 size and higher resolution are really nice. It's sharp enough to look good in MacOS too, even if it's a pain in the ass for HiDPI scaling without using two inputs.
This is a screencap of how to make a cookie cutter individual window assignment in DisplayFusion. You can just drag that reticle to the window you've already sized manually and drop it on that window's title bar, and displayfusion will fill in the coordinates automatically. This function will operate on whatever window is active at the time you hit the hotkey combination.
If you have a stream deck, you can do the same kind of thing with it's window sizing and position plugins, assigning one to a button. There are a few different plugins that can manage window movement and sizing, but the "Windows Mover" plugin by barraider works well on it's own. Here is a screencap of it's setup interface for a single button, where it was set to a specific application, firefox,
Details on setting up one or more saved window position profiles in DisplayFusion, separate from the "window sizing" functions I just talked about.
The menus rolled out from the right to the left in this image.
You set up the hotkey in the main settings panel. When you double click the profile name on the right side (Work or Steam in the example), another window will pop up where you can set the key combination for the hotkey you want (click the "Set Hotkey" button shown on the upper right in the second image). Key Combination heading in this main panel will show the hotkey after you have assigned one:
After setting up two different saved window position profiles in DisplayFusion, this is how I set their hotkeys to a toggle switch on a stream deck button on my stream deck. Each time I press the button that HotkeySwitch is assigned to, it swaps between the two different profiles of window positions.
I'll second the Display Fusion recommendation. But I would recommend looking at the Monitor Configuration setup. You can split a monitor virtually into a number of different virtual monitors and they will pretty much function as distinct monitors for most programs and you can easily override to display across the entire display or exclude programs that have issues (usually ones that do fancy / unusual windows). Here's my primary setup (you can have multiple monitor profiles):
Idk what it has without going pro because I bought it so long ago and the license lasts forever. It's $34 for one pc, or $50 for all of your pcs now I guess, and it never expires.
The displayfusion function template lets you input the values shown here manually typing them in (where it says width value, heigh value). That - OR - you can set your window size and location yourself manually using your mouse, and then drag the reticle in the template to the window title bar of that window you just set up. To have different windows different sizes, you'd use a different function for the other one with it's own hotkey combination.
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I can't speak for them , but I know a lot of people just drag stuff around using fancy zones etc., which does work.
Windows also integrated a drop menu of window layouts at the top of the screen a long time ago, but it's pretty generic sizing wise without any ability to customize it afaik.
Personally, I'd recommend getting a 16 key stream deck when they go on sale for $100 - $120 over the holidays if you could swing it. The mini 6 key one is regularly $50 though. Then you could have buttons to set window spaces easily. Either DisplafyFusionPro or a stream deck can do the trick though.
This is the windows mover interface in stream deck. As you can see, you can retrieve the window size and position information, or you can enter/modify the values manually into that template yourself. You can use that dropdown to set that button to only operate on a specific app, or you can select "current focused window" so that it moves whatever window is the active window at the time.
You can make a number of generic window position buttons that operate on the active window, and name them the sizes you want, and/or you can set up a bunch of buttons, one for each app, etc.
With respect to the virtual display feature, it just works normally when a window is not maximized (just like it was one monitor). When you maximize, it will maximize to the virtual display it is on. A shift (?) Maximize will go to the whole physical display. There is a 30 day trial with the pro features, so you can just try it.
There are alterntives that do some of the similar functions. List here: https://alternativeto.net/software/displayfusion/
If you're using a Dell monitor the Dell Display and Peripheral Manager app can do similar things with dividing a monitor up into chunks. At any rate there are a bunch of options for slicing a screen up and snapping windows to the slices.
I never heard of Samsung has a utility s/w that can do this too. This is the 1st time I come across this piece of information. Well, I have been using Dymo tape, and they keep falling off, as the edge of most monitor is only 3 to 4 mm thick, so it's hard to stick anything there
Pretty sure this is yet another Samsung firmware bug, maybe in combination with the new Nvidia App replacing the NCP. Not sure if the latter is still available? Should probably just be a different UI but who knows.if you don't need that 2nd HDMI cable, and now you do. Could this be at the beginning of the failure of 5090? or do you think this is just a firmware bug?
are you really using 5090? as many 5090 over heat at the 12Vpwr port.
P.S. if you are stuck at any rabbit hole, let me know, as rabbit is my specialty
I just used the free MS Powertoys because I mostly just want to have fixed window placement areas rather than try to make virtual monitors. You can build overlapping zones too.
I don't have a 50 series GPU so can't test 240 Hz in the first place at native res. I also don't use my G95NC at all with Windows at this point. I do my gaming from the sofa with my LG CX 48" and for everything else use the Samsung as a desktop display.Can see that @kasakka was involved in on of the threads as well, how did it turn out?
I went directly to 1009.2
to make you feel any better, I made the same mistake on a Gigabyte B150M motherboard. They have a BIOS 10 yr. newer than the old BIOS, which is strange, as the motherboard has been discontinued for many yr. I flash that motherboard w/ that 10 yr. newer BIOS, the PC won't boot up since. I then removed the battery, try to go back to the old BIOS, but can't get rid of the new BIOS.I went directly to 1009.2
But my conclusion is that it probably never worked regardless of what the NCP or Nvidia App might say. At least I have not found any good way to verify it. Pendlum demo never seem to say I have GSync, even at a lower resolution and 120 hz. That said, I am pretty sure I got it working with 4K@240hz over HDMI but that PC has been transformed now into probably the most overpowered HTPC in a long time and has moved into the living room
Yet to try via DP though (as I was unable to get my work laptop to work with HDMI).