24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Phosphor bleed:

And what is if i have a pitch black background an a white dot on it and the background around it is "glowing"?

Some website says: This is a phenomenon that occurs when using a black background. Toolbars or
applications that use a white field next to the black background will show a
glow or lighter shade up to one inch into the black field. This is commonly
known as phosphor bleed.

It doesn't take much of a beam or light wave to make them glow. If you have ever turned your CRT or CRT TV off when the room is completely dark, you will notice the phosphors glow for a period of time
after the unit is off.

Basically the light from the active white phosphors glow or have a halo affect into the black region. As the monitors size gets larger this phenomena becomes more apparent.

The terms phosphor lag, trail, bleeds and persistence are all used wrongly by many users, including me it seems :s
I did some reading upon it myself now and i must admit that i used wrong terms too..

You are quite right, i think YOUR problem can't be resolved with hardware calibration.
The problem i solved with calibration was having ghost-like images that linger on screen for a fraction of a second. Sorry if i gave impression that i solved a similar problem to yours then, with those convertors. I just thought you had *my* problem. :s

I must say explaining the difference between the terms correctly is out of my league.

Sorry if i wasted your time, i think you are better off asking uncle vito

But thanks for your help! Any noob which will have the same problems have much less to ask here now if you can include this in your guide maybe. i also think that a fw900 wiki would be awesome. or maybe a generell crt faq wiki or something.

Hm but the question is now if this phosphor bleeds, trailings, lags and so on are really normal or this is a damage...? Hm but you never noticed that right? Can you please start the eizo or nokia test up to the test where 4 white blocks are shown on a black background and report me here if the 1cm around is glowing around it?

Also on the "short message" box here under the thread i can see a slightly glowing around the grey border and the white filling. if i reduce the brightness, then it reduce the glowing... but then the crt is a WAY to dark.

EDIT:

Hm, i have searched for "phosphor bleeds" and have found the same thread that you (atwixx) found likely. And there is written:

"I have seen phosphor bleed almost anywhere on the screen, I doubt it has anything to do with how the phosphors are scanned. Older monitors are less susceptible to phosphor bleed due to the fact that the phosphor is close to or has already reached half brightness."

Wow, i am a little bit happy that there is one point to be pride of the problem. Looks its not a bug, its a feature. Looks like all of the fw900 had this problems at the beginning and in the time where they got older got ride of it. After that my fw900 should live also a long time anymore and is problyable not half of end of life. The owner from i got this monitor for very less said that it was only some years used and was the last 4 or 5 years only in box because he upgraded on a TFT. But if so then uncle vito should know that because he sells new ones. Maybe he never notice that because he never test for it.

Here you can test it IN FULLSCREEN. And dont read the comments and so on. this test is for a other problem but you can test with it also my problem fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIqyb4MUrDU&feature=player_embedded

Around the white block is a light glowing.

and here an video (not mine fw900, its a plasma but same problem). look for the black bar if the bright t-shirt is near to the black bar. the black bar will be glowing and will be brighter!

Also read:

http://forums.anandtech.com/archive/index.php/t-827956.html

I think this phosphor bleed is it also if i move my mouse courser or a bright object around on a dark background. it will trail the same glowing for some seconds if you can understand what i mean.

But realy none of you has this "problem"?

I have the same problem like you. I think the phosphor lag, bleed is quite strong on mine. But i have no equipment to make an real hardware calibration so i think theres nothing i can do against it.

Hello!

Nice that there someone with this problem!

If i understand it cant be fixed with a hardware calibraion and no one here is aware of if is a "bug" or "feature". Maybe it only appears on fw900 with "good phosphor". I think this because if have read that if the crt is end of life this problem not exist... But maybe you can write something about your fw900. Like how old. The condition, production year. And if the picture looks end of life or you think it is in good condition.

Also which brightness, contrast and color temperature are you using? And what are the suggestions of sRGB mode in OSD for brightness and contrast after a color restauration?

And maybe your blacks are crushed and if you coldstart the right and top edges are stretched over the brezel? This are other problems which i have. But i think the crushed blacks are solved with my new gamma value.

EDIT: And what cable and kind of adapter are you using? And was the problem existing from the first time?

Also nice to read: http://oscilloclock.com/archives/335

The image with clock is my problem, but this trail on my screen has no color... it is colored like the light object,,, if i had to say which color the trail has i would say "white".

Maybe sony had realy used different phosphors. or it was quiet normal if fw900 was new and because nobody here has a realy new one they dont know it. but mine is used a couple of years. but maybe it shows realy that the phosphor has luminance power anymore... Bit it is a little bit sad in games and destroy the perfectnes of the image for me a little bit. i had only crt before, never tft but i was not aware of this problem to any of my crts...

Hm and also:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=318100

And also very interesting:

http://forums.thedarkmod.com/topic/11789-new-crt-light-trails/

That shows that some monitors had this issue where they were brand new!

and:

http://alienbabeltech.com/abt//viewtopic.php?t=26118

shows also that is normal on a fw900.

So everybody can realy test it? And also write your brightness and contrast settings please...

And here:

http://89.188.28.128/showpost.php?p=4088972&postcount=49

If all of you have it or all with this problems would say that their monitor is in a very good condition, than i can life with it... But if not i want to get ride of it.
Should be possible anyway...

The manufacturing date of mine is May 2002. I bought this one from Germany over Ebay from an Chinese Guy who lives in Germany at this time. And he shipped it to me with iloox transportation service. He packed it up very well and nothing get damaged during the shipment to Austria.

My settings are Brightness 23, Contrast 62. SRGB says 29 Brightness and 89 Contrast.

I use the Advanced Color Management:
R Bias 60
G Bias 60
B Bias 60
R Gain 85
G Gain 80
B Gain 85

The temperature is about 7500K.

The condition of mine is very decent. A few little scratches on the original Bezel so i swapped it with an new one (bought from http://www.ersatzteilservice24.eu/). I removed the antiglare, not because it has many scratches or so, but ive read so much about the better picture and they were right.

I would say my FW900 has much power and is not at the end of its life.

Ive lowerd the G2 level from 154 to 145 and i would say thats pretty nice.

At start up the blacks are not really black (which is normal i think) and the picture is streched over the Bezels end yes (but thats also normal i would say).

The first cable ive bought was an DVI to BNC cable from Inline (found it on ebay). But i warn you all dont buy this cable since i got an good visible ghosting image with this.

Then i bought another DVI to BNC cable which ive forgot where ive found it but now its an normal image.

you are right phosphor bleeding is a feature of CRT. I didn't know it is WORSE on new CRT monitors. Then again, i never had a "new" one.

Quite funny to think that a second hand refurbished CRT gives better image then a new one that has phosphor bleed.

I'll try the tests on my fw900 on sunday, bit busy now.. The monster needs the weekend off too

I use custom settings for color temperature. All gains on 100 and color bias red on 55, green on 43 and blue on 73. Gamma correction on 2.5, contrast 90 brightness 29. Kinda weird that so many users use so much different settings for BIAS and GAIN of the colors. I'll try your settings and compare myramond.. Leaving gain at 100 is bad for the longevity off the monitor anyways..

You guys really got me convinced i should toy around bit more with the settings of the OSD and the rest.

Mind you, i let windows 7 make my own profile (windows 7 merges your standard color profile with the calibration results of the color calibration tool, and makes a new profile to choose. It clearly shows its one that is made with your calibration results. But the program i listed in guide for custom color profile is obviously lot better. the gamma gets saved in this profile; the program i listed changes it in REGISTRY i think, so that no game or whatever can change the values for colors or gamma)

On the lower resolution and higher refresh rate; did the trail or glow vanish? Just curious... I can't shake the feeling that your whites bloom too much and that its due to settings. It might indeed be that your fw900 has seen little use and that the glow will go away after while.. But I don't quite believe that is only cause of the problem.

PS: WTH myramond, i just read your signature.. You got 2 FW900 in STORAGE for when your main one goes down? I lol'd.. Glad to see CRT is far from dead

atwix said:

PS: WTH myramond, i just read your signature.. You got 2 FW900 in STORAGE for when your main one goes down? I lol'd.. Glad to see CRT is far from dead

Click to expand...

Yes i got the two from Ebay. I looked every day for an FW900 who is sold in Austria and i got these two. One of it has the G2 problem. The guy who sold this was visible nervous he thougt that as ive seen that the monitor has this problem that i would not buy it but i said i know how to fix it so ill take it ^^.

I would buy even more of them but i dont have enough space for them. I really hate LCD's (for the bad quality picture). I hope i never have to use one at home as long as there comes another technology which provides good black levels, no input lag, good color reproduction and so on.

Hello,

mine was produced 2000-48. This is shown if you press for long the OSD button.

And surprise, surprise! I am also from Germany... And i have bought mine also from ebay Germany. And i have shipped it with... Iloxx... And nothing got damaged! I have bought a "clicktronic dvi to vga cable 1,5m" which is to be selled out. Noraly it costs about 40€ or so and i got it from ebay for around 15€. It is very hight quality. But this not changes my phosphor bleeding problem and trailing. Hm, one thing... On mine was written a number with a pen (but washable). SN 2803734. Over OSD i found out it is the serial number... Would be not surprising if your serial number is also in this range... Maybe it was a bad charge from sony or so? Or maybe they were all RMA and on yours also was the serial number written on the bezel...

Or maybe this trailing and bleedging was normal where they were new and it shows that they have left a little more power as other ones. i dont know it.

And also mine has this problem with stretched over the edges of the bezel... Is it only right and top edge? And how you "solved" it? I did reduce the viewable area on this way that at coldstart this edges are on he border and end of the bezel and if it has warmed up the right and left and top and bottom edges are equal... But from wat i have read here nobody realy also have this problem. Vito said that it is maybe end of life because doing this...

Maybe mine should also lowering the g2... But many said if the black level is on 29% brightness good and black then it is dont need it. But i had the problem that in certain games all was to dark with this brightness and good black level. crushed blacks... so i came to gamma correction... Did you know of gamma or you are not using gamma correction?

And surprisly my sRGB mode suggested 29% brightness also like yours but one 1% more for contrast as yours. 90% contrast. And i also think my fw900 has left a good portion of power. But every owner of this monitor would think that sadly, i would say :S But i never heard of one which was realy end of life and so bad that it was more bad as a tft. looks like they were build for long life

I was not aware of that there exists new parts of this monitor... and then from germany. awesome!
But the prices are a other thing. But ok, in contrast what the monitor was costing new.

I am also thinking about buying me one or two used for storage. or for dual view setup.

Also i had bought a cable before which looks very good and stable but i was schocked were i realized that with this vga cable i was only able to do resolutions up to 1024x768!! And after searching i found out that with this cable the edid informations (about possible resolutions etc.) were not read out and the monitor did only fallback resolutions.

I have also heard that bnc quality is not over vga anymore and lacks edid informations also. Also inline is normaly a good brand.

Hm, and you using a nvidia card, i a ati card. hmm but most of our symptoms are equal and we have the same problem...

I will test if the problem vanish if i play with lower resolution. i always play on 1920x1200 normaly.

Hallöchen Nachbar,

My serialnumber is 2815151.

At startup the picture is like if you have zoomed in, so all edges are over the bezel. But i think this is not a problem. This should be totally normal on every CRT. You have to wait since its warmed up. (WAITING TILL THE TUBE IS WARMED UP is very important before you make any adjustment or calibration). But every tube is different, so some of them are warming up faster and dont have much picture-misalingment like others.

Im not using any gamma correction now. Maybe i should do some.

Yes the parts from ELAS are very expensive, payed 130 € for the Bezel but for me its still worth it. I would do everything for my FW900 .

obviously you have more knwoledge then me on the tech itself.

Can you do me favor myramond and read my guide on page 438.. I need all mistakes in it removed.

I like the idea of the CRT faq.. i already added quite some info and links on the tech itself at start of guide.

I also like the idea. But how to do this FAQ? with a seperate wiki page?

I would have a free webspace with php, mysql, etc. which is without advertisment and fast. And then only setup a wiki system and we can create a page. and if this realy works good than we can buy a domian for it. or want to do a topic here for faq?

Hm zoomed in image is not realy normal i would say. has you atwixx this problem?
Also only the right and top edges are overstretched. on yours Myramond you say all 4 edges? But it is sucking... If i coldstart and have set up the viewable area up to the edges, than the top and right is cut off. and if i set it up that viewable area is less, than i can work at coldstart but i have later less viewable area. And i have to notice that this is about 0.5 inch on the top and right edge... Thats a lot for my feeling... Also i thinks it not a random problem... i have ask you that because i was sure you had it, because you also had the trailing and bleedging problem. i would say that 2 problems appears togehter! Also i have looked for the the blackpoint tests.. and now i am aware i cant see the difference between lets 3 little boxes of different black because the phosphor bleedging is destroying the difference!

Ok and i have tested it now on unreal tournament 2004. Also on 800x600 where i have 2 black bars on right and left hand side because its a 4:3 resolution. if i look at a shining thing nearly the black bar on the left, most of the black left bar is bleedged bright and it is not real black anymore... and also if i have lets say a light on the top and dark wall under it. if i move my look from the light to botom to the wall the bright from the light trails in the black wall and then disappears... you understand what i mean?

EDIT: I have found something about the bleedging what is in german "überstrahlen"(?).
http://diy-community.de/showthread....-CRT-Projektor&p=280608&viewfull=1#post280608 (its german, sorry)
But there is talked about the focus which has influence on this! Also the G2! Maybe our G2 is to hight anymore... This is what i have always asked me... what is the difference between lowering th brightness to the point were black is black versus lowering the G2 to the point black is black... Looks like if you lower more the G2 and higher more the "brightness" the blooming/bleedging/"überstrahlen" is appearing later. Sadly i have no windas equipment to test this. Also the focus makes sense because if phosphor is not luminance where it should luminance (only on the white pixels and not around the bright object) the fouces is set to "wide". But my sharpness is realy good i would say... maybe too good? Hm but that would not make sense than. maybe someone can use this informations.

http://s7.directupload.net/file/d/3081/jrxgsdco_jpg.htm

Here in ebay. one is from germany. maybe i will buy them. will looking what the endprice is. This is the picture from the owner. looks like he dont know how to thread them... Because the image is setup badly and the color purity is not right set i think. from outer appereance it looks good right? what do you think about the image? end of life or maybe i should buy the? or my friend from austria if he like

i have sent the owner a message about dayle use time and production year and on which contrast and brightness this pictures was maked and how long it need to warmup and if it has zoomed in picture at coldstart and trailing and also what suggested sRGB values for brightness and contrast are and if image restauration is working anymore and if it has color shift at coldstart and so on. what could be also important to ask?

EDIT: A question myramond. You have 3 right? Has you looked for the bleedging and trailing on the other 2? If all 3 has the same that should be really normal. Same for the zoomed in image at coldstart. i have read the manual, nothing about that. i also dont think sony would sell them new with this problem. i mean 0.2 would be ok... but 0.5 and then on right and top ONLY? And you say that you have that problem on all 4 endges? also about 0.5 inch (about 1cm)? would be interesting if the other 2 has the same problems.

Also how any of you thread the screensaver or the time where nobody is working on pc? i mean if i would poweroff it like vito suggested, i have all the time to wait until it is warmed up... And on the other hand side it is not good for health of the monitor to not use a screensaver or set it in standby. also if i sent it to standby and power it on it need also warmed up again... But whats about use a nearly black screensaver or only a blank black screen? then it should stay warm but it should not lost phosphor because nothing is displayed on the screen, right? than the best way would be only to set a blank screen or nearly black screensaver and after 30 minutes or so it can go to standby? Or will something die faster because it is on and only displaying a black screen?

Also @atwix what is your suggested brightness and contrast in sRGB mode on the OSD? Are the values on this dynamicly created and individual or all the same? my and myramonds are nearly the same... but also nearly the same problems... and on what are this suggested values refering? The g2 or what?

I only know that were i got the monitor the values were others... dont know what they were. but the image was to bright and after the image/color restauration the values were other and the black levels were a lot better.

I have also read more about trailing and bleedging / phosphor lag. on new bought plasma tv this symptom is vanish after a period of time... @myramond how long are you using this fw900 with this problem? and was it used before you bought them or only stay somewhere and not in use?

Chris2000 said:

mine was produced 2000-48. This is shown if you press for long the OSD button..

Click to expand...

You learn something every day. My sgi Variant is 2001-14

ZeosPantera said:

You learn something every day. My sgi Variant is 2001-14

Click to expand...

zzcool found out that randomly. it's nice if your monitor is where you cant good behind it

atwix said:

obviously you have more knwoledge then me on the tech itself

Click to expand...

Hmm i would not say that, i mean all things i know about CRT technology and the FW900 ive learned by myself from the internet and mostly from this forum. But i will/want to help as much as i can.

Chris2000 said:

Also how any of you thread the screensaver or the time where nobody is working on pc? i mean if i would poweroff it like vito suggested, i have all the time to wait until it is warmed up... And on the other hand side it is not good for health of the monitor to not use a screensaver or set it in standby.

Click to expand...

Ive read somewhere (here in this forum) that its not good to use an blank (only black) screensaver. An Screensaver is important but ive heard that the monitor should better do something than show nothing. I am using the Mystify screensaver from Windows.

Chris2000 said:

A question myramond. You have 3 right? Has you looked for the bleedging and trailing on the other 2? If all 3 has the same that should be really normal. Same for the zoomed in image at coldstart. i have read the manual, nothing about that.

Click to expand...

I think you misunderstand me with the problem of the zoomed in picture. I will describe it in German because this is easier for me.
Das sogenante Problem das du mir beschrieben hast bezieht sich auf deine Ecken die über den Rand hinaus verschwinden soweit ich verstanden habe.
Bei mir ist es so das das komplette Bild nicht nur die ecken über den Rand hinaus gehen und sich das langsam mindert bis es nachdem er warm ist wieder komplett perfekt zu den rändern ausgefüllt ist, und das empfinde ich als vollkommen normal da ich irgendwo hier mal gelesen habe das das normal ist (was ich mich erinnere hat das Vito geschrieben). Genauso wie das Bild beim einschalten viel heller ist als normal. Bis der Monitor nicht auf Betriebstemperatur ist wird es heller sein als sonst , die Geometrie also das überstehen an den Ecken wird nicht stimmen und es kann auch sein das das Bild generell ein wenig unscharf ist aber das legt sich ziemlich schnell. Man kann auch einfach herausfinden ob er auf betriebstemperatur ist. Indem man in den Menüpunkt Farbe geht dann auf Einfach und dann steht da entweder Farbwiederherstellung Ein [->] oder Farbwiederherstellung erst nach Warm up verfügbar.

Since i got this FW900 he has this "problem". It was used before i got it. But i dont know how long exactly.

Chris2000 said:

Here in ebay. one is from germany. maybe i will buy them. will looking what the endprice is. This is the picture from the owner. looks like he dont know how to thread them... Because the image is setup badly and the color purity is not right set i think. from outer appereance it looks good right? what do you think about the image? end of life or maybe i should buy the? or my friend from austria if he like

Click to expand...

The monitor on Ebay looks pretty nice. The photoquality is not very good but you cant see any G2 problems or big scratches. The only problem you can see is the uncorrect Landing on the upper right corner. Very easy to fix with the Landing Option in the FW900 menu.

atwix said:

Can you do me favor myramond and read my guide on page 438.. I need all mistakes in it removed.

Click to expand...

I think there is nothing bad on your Guide atwix

Hey fellow crt fans, what are you thoughts on this monitor? Its a 22inch, which I want, but is neither a trinitron or dimatron. It is described as an aperture grill crt which is good. Anyone ever own this monitor?

No experience with that monitor, but I would be weary. Especially with a used unit. Perhaps something new could still be found on eBay or such?

(And I would suggest Trinitron if possible. My experience with a new Diamondtron last year was disappointing, because it didn't have the same edge to edge clarity that my F520 has. I thought I could get them close enough by lowering resolution on the Diamondtron. But I couldn't...though that was admittedly just one experience...anecdotal and such...)

SH1 said:

No experience with that monitor, but I would be weary. Especially with a used unit. Perhaps something new could still be found on eBay or such?

(And I would suggest Trinitron if possible. My experience with a new Diamondtron last year was disappointing, because it didn't have the same edge to edge clarity that my F520 has. I thought I could get them close enough by lowering resolution on the Diamondtron. But I couldn't...though that was admittedly just one experience...anecdotal and such...)

Click to expand...

Nothing new or even used with reasonable shipping is available. I've been using nice trinitrons since 07, two dell p1110's i brought that were new and both had crazy brightness problems, even with windas adjustments more than once.

I had a phillips 109e5, which dont needed much space for this time and sharpness was amazing. also on a 17" phillips. but the 19" had bad brightness and geometrie problems. i think i had a bad one. the tube was from siemens which i found out.

i would write a email to the owner or the page and ask i you can have live pictures how the pictures looks and how much it was used and so on. but the good is that i never saw a phillips which was to dark like many crt which will loose brightness and phosphor strange after some years. the most problems are with to bright... but only if you get a bad unit which was produced with this "error". But after reading here about G2 i think all phillips also have a G2 which can fix that problem easy like on trinitrons but without software modification. look for reviews on net and if they are good and you have the money to be a little bit risky buy it

EDIT: It was on third place on a german test 2002. the grade was "2.0" the first place was "LG Electronics Studioworks N2200P" and second place was "NEC-Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u". the test said that the con was a bad sharpness of edges.

Also a quotation from a forum:

"After careful examination of various manufacturers' catalogs, including Eizo
and Sony - F520! -, which are quite too expensive, I have focused on the
Philips 202P40 and Mitsubishi 2070SB, which have received good reviews. The
Philips is slightly inferior in terms of video refresh rate. Both monitors
are using the Diamondtron technology, which is better for multimedia purpose
than for business. This is illustrated by Philips, which has dedicated the
201B40 to business with a classic shadow mask technology. "

Looks like this monitor USE a diamantron tube.

EDIT 2:

http://tweak3d.net/reviews/philips/202P40/202P40/page5.shtml

I think you can buy it if you can verify that you order one from that you have seen pictures and know this is not end of life.

hope that helped a little bit.

Chris2000 said:

I had a phillips 109e5, which dont needed much space for this time and sharpness was amazing. also on a 17" phillips. but the 19" had bad brightness and geometrie problems. i think i had a bad one. the tube was from siemens which i found out.

i would write a email to the owner or the page and ask i you can have live pictures how the pictures looks and how much it was used and so on. but the good is that i never saw a phillips which was to dark like many crt which will loose brightness and phosphor strange after some years. the most problems are with to bright... but only if you get a bad unit which was produced with this "error". But after reading here about G2 i think all phillips also have a G2 which can fix that problem easy like on trinitrons but without software modification. look for reviews on net and if they are good and you have the money to be a little bit risky buy it

Click to expand...

Hmmm, problems with being too bright... Thats a bit of red flag for me. I do some more research and see whats up. I'll hit google and bing again. If it can be fixed without using software that would be great.

I'm kind of itching to upgrade one of my monitors, be it my 19crt or my lcd. I'd been looking at some dell 2209wa's, but the used price hovers close to $200. Most lcd's native resolutions are just a tad too high for my set up.

I have edited my post!

i dont think that the brightness problems are a problem on THIS monitor. like i mentioned it is using diamantron tube. the one with which i had brightness problems was a shadow mask. because of this i think it could be a nice monitor. also support bnc which shows that it was build for the upper level.

Chris2000 said:

I have edited my post!

i dont think that the brightness problems are a problem on THIS monitor. like i mentioned it is using diamantron tube. the one with which i had brightness problems was a shadow mask. because of this i think it could be a nice monitor. also support bnc which shows that it was build for the upper level.

Click to expand...

Yeah I noticed the bnc inputs... Sounds good, mostly.
Thanks for the information in your updated post. I knew I'd get some help from fellow crt holdouts.

refurbished B.. i wouldn't risk that. Only buy refurbished A for that kind of money..

You can get working 4:3 trinitron out of a recycle site that work good still for FREE.

I'd go for best of best and wait till you find fw900 or the similar models on craiglist or ebay or whatnot.

It all depends where you are on the globe. You seem to be in usa.. Maybe ask lagranuer (better known as uncle vito) if he still has fw900 stock. He seels in USA, but i don't know if he ships them still across the USA.

atwix said:

refurbished B.. i wouldn't risk that. Only buy refurbished A for that kind of money..

You can get working 4:3 trinitron out of a recycle site that work good still for FREE.

I'd go for best of best and wait till you find fw900 or the similar models on craiglist or ebay or whatnot.

It all depends where you are on the globe. You seem to be in usa.. Maybe ask lagranuer (better known as uncle vito) if he still has fw900 stock. He seels in USA, but i don't know if he ships them still across the USA.

Click to expand...

$110 with free shipping isn't awful terrible. 90 warrenty as well so I'm protected against doa. I wouldn't use it as a full time monitor, as my lcd will fill that role. My crt's are usually part time monitors, I use them 2 or 3 times a week.

Do you know any good recycling sites? Most I see still cost $$.

An fw900 from lagranuer would be nice if it wasn't over $1000.

Hi, guys, should I get the new Samsung S27b970D monitor or stick to my FW900?
Also, is my FW900 HD compatible?
Reason I ask is because it only has a VGA input.


Thanks

FW900 is able to display full HD and with hdfury, an adapter for it, it should fully support HD from my knowledge i would say.

I am wondering about the G2 brightness.
I've finally had time to attempt to fix this monitor and I'm not sure about that setting. I plugged in the windas cable and the G2 was set to 142. I gradually lowered it a few increments 5-10 would let it warm up and do a color correction on sRGB. It's slowly getting better but is there a point at which it gets to low? The fly back has shown some signs of issues and I don't want to speed failure of it till I can find a replacement.

Also any recent opinions on buying one from AccurateIT?

jkmetal said:

$110 with free shipping isn't awful terrible. 90 warrenty as well so I'm protected against doa. I wouldn't use it as a full time monitor, as my lcd will fill that role. My crt's are usually part time monitors, I use them 2 or 3 times a week.

Do you know any good recycling sites? Most I see still cost $$.

An fw900 from lagranuer would be nice if it wasn't over $1000.

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I wouldn't risk buying a CRT if it had to be shipped. And the fact that it's already in 'B' condition would scare me. Warranties are great, until they ask you to ship the thing back for a refund and you realize shipping costs may be 50% or more than the monitor originally cost.

Try Freecycle or Craigslist. It'll either be free or approx. $50 or less.

Namelessme said:

I wouldn't risk buying a CRT if it had to be shipped. And the fact that it's already in 'B' condition would scare me. Warranties are great, until they ask you to ship the thing back for a refund and you realize shipping costs may be 50% or more than the monitor originally cost.

Try Freecycle or Craigslist. It'll either be free or approx. $50 or less.

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Been trolling craigslist for 5+ years. Got all my other crts there. Most people have already tossed theirs.

I'm leaning toward this, but later in the month.

jkmetal said:

$110 with free shipping isn't awful terrible. 90 warrenty as well so I'm protected against doa. I wouldn't use it as a full time monitor, as my lcd will fill that role. My crt's are usually part time monitors, I use them 2 or 3 times a week.

Do you know any good recycling sites? Most I see still cost $$.

An fw900 from lagranuer would be nice if it wasn't over $1000.

Click to expand...

Basically, you get what you pay for it. My monitors are the Rolls Royces of the trade, and they are very well known in the world...

It is very rare now days to get a Grade A+ (flawless screens), fault free, fully calibrated and adjusted to Sony factory specs, and color accurate. Look at my eBay feedback and opinions left in blogs and forums from thousands of customers all over the world who have bought my monitors for years, including service bureaus, printing & advertising business, famous photographers, special effect studios, and some known people in the entrainment industry (I am so sorry but I cannot disclose their names).

Again, nothing against other business who sell GDM-FW900s, but again, you'll get what you pay for it.

Hope this helps,

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

atwix said:

refurbished B.. i wouldn't risk that. Only buy refurbished A for that kind of money..

You can get working 4:3 trinitron out of a recycle site that work good still for FREE.

I'd go for best of best and wait till you find fw900 or the similar models on craiglist or ebay or whatnot.

It all depends where you are on the globe. You seem to be in usa.. Maybe ask lagranuer (better known as uncle vito) if he still has fw900 stock. He seels in USA, but i don't know if he ships them still across the USA.

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If the customer accepts my terms and conditions and is willing to pay for the professional packing, we ship all over the world.

Hope this helps,

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

Rob. said:

Hi, guys, should I get the new Samsung S27b970D monitor or stick to my FW900?
Also, is my FW900 HD compatible?
Reason I ask is because it only has a VGA input.


Thanks

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An fw900 needs HDFury to display BLUE rays and whatnot. You can use the HDfury too to get better image from a playstation 3 (opposed to an old crt television for example).

There are CRT with hdmi ports but those are quite rare. Usually its HD CRT televisions only that can display HD content. For desktop sizes (up to 24 inch) you need a HDFURY.

And replace the fw900? Depends what you use the fw900 for. Sure the samsung has a real big 27 inch 2560x1440 screen, witht he new technology.. But you can't game on it decently, without image blurring..

The FW900 is still best for gaming imho... I haven't come across any LCD that is equal. People say 22,5 inch of the fw900 is small compared to 27 inch.. But i just sit lot closer to it for same effect
NOTHING beats the pixel density of an FW900, period.

Even VEGA, the guy who built a gaming rig with 3 unbezelled FW900 in eyefinity with a fresnel lens, says nothing beats FW900, especially in fast-paced games like FPS. And he tried virtually any LCD-type as well, including the catleap. Enough said.

The samsung you mention is nice ofcourse, but has a steep price. It also has a refresh rate of only 60 hertz(if my facts are right), which is the main reaosn i never bought an LCD.

I did order an overlord tempest OC though, thats a 27 inch 2560x1440 IPS panel brand that has an overclockable power brick unit, which makes it possible to reach 120 hertz.

These panels are from non main stream brands, usually made in china from A- IPS panels.
If there is one screen i expect to retire my fw900 , then its this one, or a Yamasaki Catleap 2B Extreme 1440 Monitor that can do 120hz. .. Problem is there exist only few thousand of these monitors and you may expect a waiting list of months, since the hardcore gamer scene started to discover these monitors already in june 2012...

For information on 120hz able 2560x1440 27inch IPS panels.. Check

www.overlordcomputer.com or www.120hz.net .

But if buying from middleman one-man companies with third party transporter isn't what you want, then i'd buy a good 24 inch 120hz monitor for gaming, or wait till 27 inch 2560x1440 120hz becomes mainstream.

If you want a screen for non gaming work.. The samsung looks ok. But then its big waste of money, since you can buy lot cheaper monitor..

You can do photo editing on an fw900, this CRT was MADE for that. You can even set really big resolution windows on this thing with some modding.;
Overall, there is reason this thread is still alive. The fw900 might be old and heavy, but it still beats 95¨+% of all LCD panels for gaming and other stuff.

jkmetal said:

Been trolling craigslist for 5+ years. Got all my other crts there. Most people have already tossed theirs.

I'm leaning toward this, but later in the month.

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think you made correct decision there. I didn't say 100 dollar is TOO much btw.

I'd get a used CRT locally so you can check it and ship it home yourself. Shipping a CRT should always be done in one go, not with different forms of transportation.

If its for casual use, to play let's say old games in 4:3 resolutions, i'd pick one up on craigslist.
You might get lucky. I seen fw900 go for 150 dollar or less... Anyways, it all depends on how much you are willing to spend.

ive got one near roanoke, virginia that has been sitting in my closet for 3 years now. i had it out less than a month ago and it still works fine.

atwix said:

An fw900 needs HDFury to display BLUE rays and whatnot. You can use the HDfury too to get better image from a playstation 3 (opposed to an old crt television for example).

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You can also easily display an Blu-Ray with an PC or Notebook on CRT's with AnyDVD HD. So HDFury is only needed for Consoles like PS3 or XBOX360.

Myramond said:

You can also easily display an Blu-Ray with an PC or Notebook on CRT's with AnyDVD HD. So HDFury is only needed for Consoles like PS3 or XBOX360.

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i stand corrected then.. Does it display any didigtal DVD in HD too?

DVD Movies are not HD.

But DVD's can played normally without any extra program or codec. Windows Media Player is able to play them.

i feel like a total idiot now

i must admit i never used a DVD movie on a desktop computer. Yeah, i'm a fossile. I guess i thought it WAS HD on my CRT television due to the interpolation...

I still use videos and i look at movies with live streaming in HD.. Never tried it on a CRT monitor and a desktop.

Good to know of ANY DVD though.. I really thought you needed a thing like HDfury to play Blurays on a fw900.

Thx for the info.

No problem.

You cant know everything, thats the reason why forums exist

Hi all looking for parts for my beloved fw900. One day it all of a sudden went blurry. Put it in a local repair- shop and they say it needs a Hi voltage transformer, PRT# 85986110ornx4. Any help will be greatly appreciated.