Everex XT5000T Support thread

I just successfully used a heat gun on a XT5300T. Unfortunately I wasn't thinking, and didn't pull the board out of the case before taking the heat gun to it. Now the battery doesn't fit, thanks to the plastic being warped.

I tweaked the screw mounts on the GPU side of the heatsink a bit to see if I could increase the clamping force a bit. It looks like the heatsink is making good contact without shims, once I finish getting files copied I'll fire it up and see what sort of temps I'm getting.

Guess I'll be keeping my eye on Craigslist for the next couple weeks. I'm sure my friend will be happy to get her laptop back even in it's current condition, but I would rather not leave it like this. :p
 
Download HW Monitor to see GPU & CPU temps

You could re-mold the case to fix the battery compartment if you take the motherboard out - or if you're tricky & put something like a flat-head screwdriver or a chisel behind it before heating briefly. Either way, it should be possible to repair it without making it look like it went through the microwave.
 
@Russ3ll

I second MelleniumShane90's opinion. Aluminum heatsink (w/ the heatpipe on top), although very modest, is a better way for passive cooling. This could definitely be improved, methinks, if one modifies backpanel (and possibly small part of the actual casing right above the backpanel in that area) to provide more room for air-intake by the effect of the exhaust fan pulling air-in. The only down-side to this is that we're re-using warm air to cool an already hot heatsink (which in turn cools CPU, and indirectly the NB/GPU). A copper shim is definitely also a nice addition. I'd stay away from AS5 for the GPU/copper shim though, just good ol' non-conductive thermal paste (the white stuff) is fine..

While PGS claim of thermal conductivity "2 to 4 times larger than copper" is questionable, there's also the issue of "heat capacitance" which copper would most likely be much better at, as well as the speed of "thermal release" which I believe aluminum is best at (hence why many higher-end heatsinks use copper base but aluminum fins).
It compares 25, 70, and 100um of PGS with copper/aluminum/etc.., but does not say how much of the latter it is comparing it too. If at an equivalent thickness, copper/aluminum will not fair well against graphite in terms of thermal conductivity, of course. Mind you, the article clearly states this (PGS) is specifically for "small portable and handheld electronics"... But this is a 17" monster laptop :)
 
I managed to get the battery into place by heating up the warped plastic enough for it to be malleable and pushing the battery into place. It's a bit more warped than it was before, but it's more functional now.

After cleaning things out and reinstalling the heatsink with AS5, I'm getting 73C under load for the GPU. Not horrible, but not as low as I would have liked to see.



"thermal release" is a term I saw people throwing around in the old copper vs aluminum debates, but means absolutely nothing. Mixed aluminum and copper designs are used for cost and weight savings. Copper is the superior material for heatsinks.
 
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Yes, copper is the superior thermal conductor, but aluminum dissipates heat faster due to its mass being less than copper. Of course, copper is more expensive - so that plays a big role in their decision for heatsinks.
 
Wraithblade said:
"thermal release" is a term I saw people throwing around in the old copper vs aluminum debates, but means absolutely nothing. Mixed aluminum and copper designs are used for cost and weight savings. Copper is the superior material for heatsinks.
Click to expand...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_heat_capacity

Volumetric heat capacity (VHC), also termed volume-specific heat capacity describes the ability of a given volume of a substance to store internal energy while undergoing a given temperature change, but without undergoing a phase change. It is different from specific heat capacity in that the VHC depends on the volume of the material, while the specific heat is based on the mass of the material. If given a specific heat value of a substance, one can convert it to the VHC by multiplying the specific heat by the density of the substance.
Click to expand...

VHC = pc
where p = density, c = specific heat capacity

so, given:
p (al) = 2.70 g·cm^−3
c (al) = 24.200 J·mol^−1·K^−1
and
p (cu) = 8.94 g·cm^−3
c (cu) = 24.440 J·mol^−1·K^−1

We plug-in values in our equation:
VHC = pc

And get:
VHC (al) = 2.70 * 24.200 = 65.34
VHC (cu) = 8.94 * 24.440 = 218.4936

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_heat_capacity#Thermal_inertia

In heat transfer, a higher value of the volumetric heat capacity means a longer time for the system to reach equilibrium.
Click to expand...

The considerably higher VHC value of copper means copper can store much more internal energy (thermal) while undergoing temperature change (rise in temp), but will take a longer time to reach equilibrium (ambient/room temp).

Thermal Inertia:
I = sqrt(kpc)
where k = thermal conductivity

I (al) = sqrt(237 * 2.70 * 24.200) = 124.441070
I (cu) = sqrt(401 * 8.94 * 24.440) = 295.999888

The temperature of a material with low thermal inertia changes significantly during the day, while the temperature of a material with high thermal inertia does not change as drastically
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm missing something? I'll happily stand corrected if you show me proof.
For example, heat up same volume (not mass) of pure copper and pure aluminum (not alloy) blocks to the same temp. Aluminum will take a bit longer time or a bit more energy/heat to reach the same temp as copper, of course. Then, once you get them both at say, 110C, remove the heating source and measure the surface temp of each of the two blocks at equal intervals of time (say @ 5s, 10s, 15s, 20s) and graph the drop in temps of each of them over time.

Edit: To be perfectly honest, I'm still conflicted about the concept of Volumetric Heat Capacity vs. Heat diffusivity.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_diffusivity
Substances with high thermal diffusivity rapidly adjust their temperature to that of their surroundings, because they conduct heat quickly in comparison to their volumetric heat capacity or 'thermal bulk'.
Click to expand...
Copper = 112.34 (m²/s) × 106
Aluminium = 84.18 (m²/s) × 106

Edit2: I think Heat diffusivity description is a bit misleading.
Posts from http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/183135-29-copper-aluminium
by: kennith13 05-19-2009 at 11:12:37 PM, and
by: Professor Alameddine 09-01-2009 at 01:57:45 AM
explain it quite well..
In an analogy and simplified terms:
Copper very efficiently absorbs and transfers heat as does aluminum. It does it faster, as well. That said, copper has an incredibly high thermal capacity. That big fat steak just can't suck up all the heat that copper will hold on to, and this is where copper and aluminum differ in requirements. Copper won't readily dump all the heat energy it picks up, because it holds so much of it before it changes temperature to any great degree.
Click to expand...

I believe the above is what's called "Thermal Inertia" which is partially based on the "Voumetric Heat Capacity".

That leaves us with a problem. Copper needs help. Somehow, you have to remove all that heat from the copper, as it will just hold on to it otherwise. A copper heat sink can work much better than an aluminum one, but you have to either have loads of pipes and lots of fins and airflow, or you need peltier/water cooling with excellent transfer to help it out.

The thermal capacity of copper, when compared to an aluminum heat sink of the same design, completely removes the benefit of using copper in the first place without help. As a matter of fact, a poorly designed copper sink can be much worse than an aluminum model.

The best way to use the materials is being tried nowadays, and that is combining them. As with most good things, they work better together than apart.
Click to expand...

I think now I understand better... I believe this is explained by "Thermal Effusivity" which is also partially based on the "Voumetric Heat Capacity".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_effusivity
A material's thermal effusivity is a measure of its ability to exchange thermal energy with its surroundings.
Click to expand...

i.e. Thermal Diffusivity is the material's ability of adjusting its own temperature to that of its *hotter* surroundings (sucking heat in), while Thermal Effusivity is exchanging it with its surroundings (extruding heat)

Now that same page on Thermal Effusivity says:
If two semi-infinite bodies initially at temperatures T1 and T2 are brought in perfect thermal contact, the temperature at the contact surface Tm will be given by their relative effusivities.
Click to expand...

and as Professor Alameddine puts it:
so while for cooling heat diffusion is faster in copper, heat release is lower in copper and higher in aluminum. For heating, not quite so! while for coils inside the warmer medium (condenser is now inside the room) heat is dissipated faster by aluminum coils, which is what we need to get warm, evaporator coils outside in colder temperatures need to be copper so that they absorb heat faster, and store heat longer.
Click to expand...
 
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You were looking at some of the heat dissipation articles I was, as well. Though, I didn't think putting that much effort into describing the scientific methods in achieving it was necessary lol.

Here's a link to the forum I've started working on today to track all the issues for these Fujitsu rebranded laptops. (I just moved it so it can be expanded on by other users)

I put holds on a few of the posts so I can include some guides on fixing the GPU and disassembling the beasts - as I have 2 XT5000Ts and 1 XT5300T.

Oh, and the article on the nVidia Class Action Lawsuit
 
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Meleniumshane90 & jasmineaura,

Thanks for your timely and well reasoned advice, I guess I'll just go with the laptop cooler plan and make sure the laptop's air vents don't get obstructed during use.

Although I'm a bit apprehensive about doing a reflow myself, I suppose there isn't much to lose as the laptop is already useless the way it is...

Looking forward to seeing your process documented all in one place Meleniumshane90 (and many thanks for the effort it takes to do that!).
 
I'll have some videos up this week & add more content to the guide. Anyone who has questions regarding their laptop can ask on there. I'm going to try and get updates from the OCZ counterpart to the XT5300T there as well - Maybe they did some BIOS updates or had some tweaks.
 
Hello guys, I'm looking for way to remove the keyboard on my Fujitsu-Siemens Amilo Xa 1526. Unlike the Everex XT5300T I have minimal acces to the GPU heatsink. It's imposible to dismantle it because some screws are covered by chasis. Here is the picture.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1342/fujitsum.jpg
I unscrewd all the screws all over the laptop body but I'm unable to separate the bottom of chasis from the top. I suspect, that there are some more screws somewhere under the keyboard, but I have no idea, how to remove it.
It's crucial for me because my GPU is broken and i need to use the "Heat Gun method" :) Is here someone, who can actualy help me with this problem or someone who can provide me service manual for this laptop?
Thx and excuse my english ;)
 
mir77 said:
Hello guys, I'm looking for way to remove the keyboard on my Fujitsu-Siemens Amilo Xa 1526. Unlike the Everex XT5300T I have minimal acces to the GPU heatsink. It's imposible to dismantle it because some screws are covered by chasis. Here is the picture.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1342/fujitsum.jpg
Click to expand...

it's the same exact chassis as the XT5000T, same motherboard with the addition of bluetooth iirc (and only slightly different keyboard i think)

mir77 said:
I unscrewd all the screws all over the laptop body but I'm unable to separate the bottom of chasis from the top. I suspect, that there are some more screws somewhere under the keyboard, but I have no idea, how to remove it.
It's crucial for me because my GPU is broken and i need to use the "Heat Gun method" :) Is here someone, who can actualy help me with this problem or someone who can provide me service manual for this laptop?
Thx and excuse my english ;)
Click to expand...

yes, iirc, you flip the LCD up as if you're going to use the laptop, you'll find two little caps under LCD, which you can gently uncap from the back with a tiny flat screw driver.. it's a little tricky so you have to be careful not to break them. underneath them are screws that hold the lcd in place (keep them in place for now).
Then I think the rectangular frame/part between LCD and keyboard (which covers speakers?) comes off, in a similar manner. I'm not 100% sure, but either this part first, or the top frame first. i'm pretty sure however that popping off some plastic comes first :)
just gently popping it off from both corners and then gently slipped out.. underneath it lies a few screws that hold keyboard in place there
iirc, there are also a few screws in the hard drive bays. you might have to take those out as well.
 
I'm working on a guide right now to take the laptop apart completely. I really didn't want to do it again, but I have to on the XT5000T so I can plug in the CMOS battery (as I forgot to do that a few months back lol)
 
Depends how much you're looking for. I have 3 working systems: 2 XT5000Ts & 1 XT5300T - could use some extra parts for my original XT5000T

In particular, a keyboard, fan, heatsink assemblies, & possibly one of the screens if in very good condition (no scratches, no dead pixels) & inexpensive. Mine is perfect, except for one dead pixel in the upper right-hand corner that's always been there & was always an annoyance.
 
My XT5300T finally did the same thing my XT5000 did, blank screen and no boot. Their was s post earlier this year on Hard Forum don't remember the poster name. Anyways about an Ebay computer dude who did all the work at good price.

Web link: www.avonpcpitstop.com

Ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260595095107&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

He did GPU reflow, ran it for a day using some video stability software. He has some experience with Everex XT models. $80 to do the GPU and tests. Upgrade CPU to 2.0Ghz for $50. Shipping was $30. Within a week 1/2 I had my XT5300 back up running.

I normally do all the work on my computers but this was a great deal and he has good communication skills during the repair process. Plus a 60 day warranty!
 
As an eBay Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
I admire your resolve, but $160 is a lot to put into these as they are bound to die again. I cooked mine 4 times before finally moving on.
 
Gave the reflow a try a few weeks back but was unsuccessful. Was able to get it to boot though but with multiple colored vertical lines appearing on the screen. Tried a second time with worse results, the screen barely lighting with the same vertical colored lines. I think it is offically dead:(:(:( Thinking about trying another MB even though premature death will probably be in it's future also, as this was the son in laws machine and he cannot afford a new machine. If it lasted another year or so with another MB he would be happy.
 
Meleniumshane90 said:
Depends how much you're looking for. I have 3 working systems: 2 XT5000Ts & 1 XT5300T - could use some extra parts for my original XT5000T

In particular, a keyboard, fan, heatsink assemblies, & possibly one of the screens if in very good condition (no scratches, no dead pixels) & inexpensive. Mine is perfect, except for one dead pixel in the upper right-hand corner that's always been there & was always an annoyance.
Click to expand...

Did you get the XT5300T I sold you working? If so, right on! :cool:
 
I haven't read this entire thread yet so some of my questions may have already been answered.

First, I just recieved this wonderful box of joy from another vegastrike developer so I would have a 64bit system to test code changes on.

The laptop had a reflow done on it a long while back as described below
I started with a temperature profile that I found - I don't remember where, but it was the reflow profile that someone had used with an industrial reflow oven to repair a similar problem with another brand laptop. I stripped the motherboard bare including cpu. memory, fan etc, everything that could be removed. I applied Kapton tape to the back of the motherboard to make sure any small components stay in place if they became loose during the reflow (there were none coming off at the end). I wrapped the motherboard in several layers of heavy duty aluminum foil leaving openings on top only for the 2 big chips: the GPU and the chipset. I set the motherboard on supports about 3-4 inches above a hot plate and checked that it was horizontal with a small bubble level. I turned the hot plate on to medium-high and let the mobo heat slowly to the starting temperature for the reflow (I don't remember any numbers now) while checking the temperature of the chips with an infrared thermometer. I then started working on each chip separately with the heat gun, still checking temps constantly with the infrared thermometer, and tried to match as closely as I could the reflow profile: a certain number of degrees per minute going up, keep at plateau for a minute, then allow to cool at a certain number of degrees per minute down. I wish I could find that profile again, but I think I lost it. Then I kept it for a few minutes at the reflow end temperature, and then started to turn down the hot plate and allow it to coast to room temperature over 30 minutes or so. I thought everything went perfectly well, but then it wouldn't boot anymore.
Click to expand...

I am hoping to restore the laptop but not sure if the above means the reflow fried the motherboard or not. In case it is fried I have ordered another mobo off ebay that sounds like it has the same video issues everyone else had.

So, need links for temps and basics on the reflow. If anyone knows what revision the mobo is that would be helpful as well.

When I tried to turn the laptop on after I got it nothing happened. No power light, no battery light nothing. Its probably fried from the reflow but I like tinkering so i'm willing to put the time in on it. If anyone has any parts let me know or if you need parts (so long as the laptop stays dead) I can help with that too.

Thanks
 
Probably you can do another reflow on that PCB, if it only had it done once. I have two Everex laptops and my XT5300 finally took a dump. I knew that the Nvidia GPU has heat issues but I forgot to turn my laptop off one day so it overheated. The guy who did my first reflow said that I would need to remove the IC and reball with non-ROHS solder, then remount to fix it. That takes time and money. Besides trying to find some to do it. I just happen to work with PCB BGA IC rework operators and he did it on the sly.

Sorry no real good solution, take your time in the second attempt. FIC/Everex who manufactured the motherboard no longer sells this MB plus they moved back to Taiwan.

If I find a better solution I will post it.

oh if you do get it reflowed think about better cooling, either better heatsink or a fan on the heatsink.
 
I just had to bake my XT5000T's motherboard (350 F for 15 minutes).

I was getting nothing but a blank screen when attempting to boot it up no matter what I tried. Everything appears to be working normally again now that I've baked it. The original wifi card even started working normally again, when prior to baking I had to use the MSI wifi card.
 
Hum...
I never thought to bake it, good idea. I returned the Alienware M15X and bought ASUS G73JH-X5. So I can take my time with the XT5300 and XT5000, my mission is figure out a better way to keep the GPU cooler.

Again I will post my success or the final death of my Everex laptops.
 
Hi all,
I am not sure if this thread is still active but I will post anyway.
My xt5000t died for second time.
The first time I RMA to manufacturer and got fixed.
This time I had to buy new MB off Ebay.
I replaced the MB but still have the same problem.
No power at all comes to it. Bought a new adapter , no love.
What else should I look for to make this thing work?
I appreciate any feedback.
 
I used to troll this board a while back looking for ideas to fix/maintain my XT5000T.

I've since moved on to a different machine, but I have 2 of these laptops still in my possession. I'm not using them, so maybe someone here might.

If you are looking for parts, shoot me an email. I'm fairly sure one has a blown GPU, as the screen flickers but ends up with a purple streak on it. The other may be blown or just needs to be "baked" - as there's no screen activity at all when it's powered on. The rest of the machine is in perfect working order: great screens, keyboards, wireless, etc. (I've never had the wireless problems I read about on here).

roctheengy at yahoo dot com.... shoot me an email with what you will offer in cash or trade.
 
enieves137 said:
Probably you can do another reflow on that PCB, if it only had it done once. I have two Everex laptops and my XT5300 finally took a dump. I knew that the Nvidia GPU has heat issues but I forgot to turn my laptop off one day so it overheated. The guy who did my first reflow said that I would need to remove the IC and reball with non-ROHS solder, then remount to fix it. That takes time and money. Besides trying to find some to do it. I just happen to work with PCB BGA IC rework operators and he did it on the sly.

Sorry no real good solution, take your time in the second attempt. FIC/Everex who manufactured the motherboard no longer sells this MB plus they moved back to Taiwan.

If I find a better solution I will post it.

oh if you do get it reflowed think about better cooling, either better heatsink or a fan on the heatsink.
Click to expand...

Well, if it was an XT5000T, off the top of the head, I could tell you that you could probably get a Amilo Xa 1526 motherboard from Fujitsu Siemens. Same exact board (and chassis) as the XT5000T except it is bundled with Bluetooth (bonus). Not sure if there are similar "sister-board" for the XT5300, but I'm sure someone here would know, if there was one.
 
andy A said:
Gave the reflow a try a few weeks back but was unsuccessful. Was able to get it to boot though but with multiple colored vertical lines appearing on the screen. Tried a second time with worse results, the screen barely lighting with the same vertical colored lines. I think it is offically dead:(:(:( Thinking about trying another MB even though premature death will probably be in it's future also, as this was the son in laws machine and he cannot afford a new machine. If it lasted another year or so with another MB he would be happy.
Click to expand...

Things to keep in mind:

Multiple work on same solder will likely make it less and less reliable over time, due to added thermal cycles (the GPU itself may eventually fail), and due to oxidization getting mixed up in the alloy of the solder - unless you seep liquid solder underneath the chip from all sides each time you attempt to reflow it.

The heat-gun will most likely not bring the RoHS-solder to a temperature high enough to actually reflow it (225-230C).. You can tell by very gently giving the chip a very little push at the with tweezers or tiny tool, see if it budges a little; the chip will slide back in place, unless you push too much in which case lots of balls will be bridged and you'd have to reball the whole thing.
In any case, with a heat-gun, it'll either put out too low of a temp, or too high of a temp. Compared to a hot air SMD rework station (cheap: Aoyue, Kada, etc.), the heat-gun puts out a lot more air, which defeats the purpose in this case. Most likely, with a heat-gun, you're only heating and expanding (not liquefying) the solder to *temporarily* fill the cracks, and as you're adding thermal cycles to the GPU, it'll become more likely to fail in nearer future.

There's also a certain process for RoHS rework/solder profile, which involves pre-heating, ramping temps up and down over critical time-windows, to avoid:
1. popcorning / delamination due to trapped moisture (could happen in deep layers of the chip's die or substrate or the mainboard and not even look it)
2. overworking (which could cause many bad things like burning the chip, warping, RoHS solder joints become brittle and more likely to break again - faster)

decent low-down/guesstimation for a solder profile here: http://forums.xbox-experts.com/viewtopic.php?p=6786#p6786
(though reflow temp mentioned there is 250C, some others - page 5 of thread linked below - say you shouldn't go over 225, 230 max)

The pros (who use 2k+ IR rework machines) allege that, for some cases, even a proper reflow (preheat/de-moisturize, stabilize temp below reflow uniformly across chip ~3min, liquify solder for ~60seconds, steady cooldown ~1min - approx. -3C/sec) is a waste of time, and that it does not add reliability, and that only a complete reball with leaded solder could guarantee reliability : http://forum.gsmhosting.com/vbb/f404/nvidia-gpu-chip-problem-746159/

P.S.: That above thread answers so many questions asked before :D
example, from page 2 of the thread:
the wireless card stops working when the faulty chip is the northbridge, not the video card. for example on hp dv series with amd processors.

when the northbridge is going out, the first sign is the lack of the wifi functionality or other types of faults not correlated with the video section.

when the northbridge is totally out , black screen occurs, but not due to the video chip, but only due to the northbridge chip, that controls the video chips too.
Click to expand...

I have little electronic experience, so for practice, I did a reflow on an old (chipped die/crystal) FX 5700 , still RoHS but having lasted years (better alloy I guess). That card's problem was the chipped corner of the die, so I didn't care if I totally messed it up. It wasn't difficult, and I believe I did the reflow properly, as I was able to check that the chip actually moves - by ever so slightly tapping it, and later tested the card and it still functioned as it did before; with same degree of corruption/artifacts due to the said physical problem.

I still have not attempted on the xt5000t because I still have not been able to get my hands on some liquid flux, and I don't want to add a thermal cycle to the GPU for a few months operation.
 
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So now that Everex is out of business and they took down their website, where could I find a driver for the sound card? Does anyone know what sound card it is?

Thanks! We just installed windows 7, 64 bit on this.
 
Whipsmack said:
So now that Everex is out of business and they took down their website, where could I find a driver for the sound card? Does anyone know what sound card it is?

Thanks! We just installed windows 7, 64 bit on this.
Click to expand...

Realtek High Definition Audio

XP/Vista drivers here: http://www.everex.com.tw/us/support/xt5300t/xt5300t.php (link for both XT5000T & XT5300T)

And, mirror mentioned many times in this thread (kindly hosted by TANWare): http://www.pcambrosia.com/xt5000t/

Of course, only XP/Vista 32-bit versions were supported.
Your best bet for driver support in 64-bit is to go Linux, but of course, YMMV ;)
 
No, all three laptops are working well. I had to use the same method on another Everex I got after that video, but it went just as well. Only issue I had with that one is with the heatsink still not keeping these things cool enough, but I haven't messed with that in a while.

To reiterate, this is by all means not a professional repair method.. notice the duct tape in the video :) But to fix a 4+ year old laptop for $25 compared to a several thousand dollar reflow station, I'd call that a good deal.

Yellow Snow: Yeah, I got it working - I about crapped myself when it did (see video) but yeah, pretty excited when I got it working. When I installed the Turion 64 X2 TL-64 in the XT5300T, it blew away my XT5000T. I actually have this big hulking Dell now that I traded for last Fall, so the other laptops haven't gotten as much usage. I've kept the Everex cause alive on our forums though lol. Still get someone from Youtube every week asking questions.


- Shane

Edit: What ACPI File are you referring to krzyscd? You referring to this?: http://www.pbus-167.com/nhc/nhc.htm#anchor_download
 
Its me Rage27 (i told you guys how to bake the motherboard) I had to make a new account cause my old account I dont remember the login, but I am just telling you guys that my xt5000 is still working and i installed a small fan under the gpu heatsink so it blows cool air unto it. I had to bake my laptop 3 times more since the last time but with the fan the system is much cooler about 60`c while gamining ( and i live in Jamaica where it is always warm) and I use rmclock to keep the cpu cool and i actually leave it on 24/7 to do my downloads I just hooked up my external hard drives, so this is still my workhorse. I now hook my laptop to my TV in my room but i now need a new laptop so anyone knowing of a good buy for gaming laptop let me know.
 
There are 112 pages here, I am having trouble locating directions on how to remove the laptop case. I have removed all screws, it seems it is stuck in the middle of the keyboard, any ideas what its snagged on or how to fully remove the case?

Thanks!
 
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