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In my experience, LCD has always been an utter disaster for retro-gaming. After embracing the tech early then finding myself disappointed with the compromises, I was fortunate enough to grab a few NOS PVMs and some smaller 17" CRTs back when the things were about worthless, as it was tough to...
Fortunately the only leaks I've had were self-induced and caught quickly (over-tightening a fitting on an Aquastream pump), though I do have a few ancient fittings with internal o-ring seals which must be 15+ years old now--certainly the service limit of many typical o-ring materials. Very cool...
Tough to go wrong with any of the top-tier brands of course, but I also highly endorse Heatkiller products, simply outstanding quality. (Have the IV on my CPU, and the 4x version of that radiator hanging from the rear of my now ancient Cooler Master ATC-111C aluminium case... LOL.) Performance...
From my experience (since socket A days), you might achieve some (perhaps minor) performance increases, but more importantly increase the threshold of existing performance before thermal throttling kicks in. Or get both some gains while also under-volting (if that's your thing).
I don't think...
The Lenovo would be the obvious pick for games, with the caveat that it's wide gamut, unlike the other two choices you posted. Most games (and web content) however are built using the sRGB color space. Since you probably don't want wildly over-saturated colors (and also the Lenovo's sRGB...
I suppose I'm old school and out of the loop, but I still use Ceramique. :P Temps are never a problem and remain consistent with little drying out after 5-10 years even.
I had one under water with an early 2000's Alphacool NexXos XP block (first version), which surprisingly worked very well. The Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0 limited overclocking somewhat, but otherwise a great board.
I upgraded about a year and a half ago to a HeroX/8700K/1080Ti... all still in my old...
Keeping in mind typical LCD characteristics and intended use, the newer ones (rev A08 here) are really good after calibration. Having the Dell next to the IPS Predator, I returned the Predator due to the awful uneven color temperature (faint yellow "blob" in the screen). For outright image...
It might be fine for temporary fun, but it would seem impossible to (properly) stress test if you're reaching thermal limits. Better to dial it back somewhat for the sake of stability and longevity. IMHO, a 24/7 overclock should be able to endure any type of load without errors or throttling...
Exactly what I did -- because good AM3+ boards are now a hobby niche, I sold mine for about what I paid for it new in 2013 ($150) and upgraded. The newer platforms are unbelievably impressive in comparison.
As mentioned, only a few motherboards could handle this chip. I had one of the better ones (Asus M5A99FX Pro) with an 8350 and could only manage 4.4 GHz under load (prime) with a custom loop and fan over the VRM... much more, and the temps went sky high. I remember folks cutting holes in their...
Many years ago, I was attempting to clean soldering remnants from a newly assembled loop... using vinegar, with a nickel plated block and fittings (tsk, tsk).
I filled the system 50/50 with distilled water/vinegar, became distracted and completely forgot about it for a few hours. Upon return...
Thanks for the info and clarification. I was shocked at what a little vinegar did to my fittings, stripped the cheap-ass plating in a matter of minutes (lol). The citric acid was like magic, poof, crystal clear water, instantly clean res, etc. I'm still cautious after my experience with the...
Yes, be careful with the citric acid, a little goes a long way, and don't leave it in there for long periods while cleaning - just a few minutes is necessary. In my experience it's much more effective than vinegar and easier on the nickle plating, but it's still an acid so use...