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Normally there should have been more information provided to give you an accurate assessment of the issue, like what filament, what bed temp, etc. But typically you would not want parts cooling on the first several layers to insure proper bed adhesion. Also some filaments (ABS for example) do not really like parts cooling if you want maximum intralayer adhesion. It isn't a hard and fast rule, but a typical setup.Ok a bit of a report. I noticed that it will warp if I have the fan blowing on it in the first 2 layers. After the first few layers, the fan helps massively. I'm able to print large objects now on the bed. I think it's due to the fact that the printer is sitting in an enclosure and even with the door open, it seems to trap the heat and thereby causing curling from the overhangs.
Might attempt to print the Storm Trooper helmet this weekend.
Normally there should have been more information provided to give you an accurate assessment of the issue, like what filament, what bed temp, etc. But typically you would not want parts cooling on the first several layers to insure proper bed adhesion. Also some filaments (ABS for example) do not really like parts cooling if you want maximum intralayer adhesion. It isn't a hard and fast rule, but a typical setup.
Even if you use a different slicer, look over the visual troubleshooting guide at https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
I'm going to throw this out there are food for thought, just in case helps. I run my cr10 off a pi3 with octoprint. I was getting the nozzle hitting the print a few hours in for no seemingly possible reason. Long story short, a more powerful adapter into the pi fixed the issue. Maybe you have a weird power supply issue into the control board of your mk2? I realize you don't have the problem with ABS...but who knows, may be something to check.
I realize this thread is a bit old but I upgraded my parts cooling fan on my MK2S to a nicer Sunon fan from mouser and it is night and day performance with overhangs. I do also run a modified nozzle but the combination has changed everything about the ability for the printer to do steeper overhangs and just overall higher quality and lower noise.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/sunon/mf50151vx-b00u-a99/?qs=EU6FO9ffTwfWIV5p3irB3g==&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2276997
I actually lost parts of my X axis due to a failed ABS print and had someone print up some replacements for me and they suggested this specific nozzle so I had them print me a couple and gave it a try. Out of the THIRTEEN variants I have tried this nozzle has given me universally better results and it is improved further by that fan.
I haven't had mine even begin to melt yet and while the fan upgrade is new the nozzle I have been using for almost 10 months now. Mine is printed in ABS though, not PETG or PLA like I suspect others do.Awesome. Noise doesn't bother me but the ability to do steeper overhangs is awesome. The comments on Thingiverse say it melts. I use a sock on mine though. Hope it fits.