Help with new build (been 3 years)

Alludes

n00b
Joined
Feb 18, 2017
Messages
2
1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? Gaming machine

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included? ~1800-1900$

3) Which country do you live in? Mesa Arizona

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget?
Case, mobo, processor, GPU, CPU, cooling, SSD, Hard driv/ psu CDRom, Windows 10. I intend to Sli it in about 2-3 months.

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? nothing in the tower, only keyboard/mouse

6) Will you be overclocking? No

7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? 1920x1080

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC? 2 weeks

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? 32 gigs of mem, ssd and HHD, SLI

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license?No I want 64 bit windows 10


build link


PC Hound Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K ($309.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 GAMING M7 ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.SKILL 16GB (2 x 8GB) TridentZ Series ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory #2: G.SKILL 16GB (2 x 8GB) TridentZ Series ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 08G-P4-6276-KR ($404.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W G3 Series 220-G3-0850-X1 ($106.99 @ NCIX)
Storage: Western Digital 1TB Blue WD10EZRZ ($49.66 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 750D ($149.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CORSAIR Hydro Series H115i (CW-9060027-WW) ($119.99 @ Newegg)

StorageCrucial 512GB MX100 CT512MX100SSD1 ($224.99 @ Newegg)

Total: $1826.06

Price may include shipping, rebates, promotions, and tax
Generated by PC Hound





Its been about 3 years since I last built a computer. Any help would be great. Thanks guys
 
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Not sure why you're bothering. Three years isn't near the leap in performance that it used to be. If you're on Sandy Bridge or better I'd reconsider, maybe just upgrading the GPU and/or SSD to up the performance. Very few games are CPU-bound there days.

That said, my thoughts on what you've listed:

Why are you mixing an i7-6700k and a Z270 mainboard? Get the i7-7700k instead.

32 GB RAM is overkill for a gaming machine. Unless you're doing something else that merits installing that much memory (e.g., Photoshop, video editing, virtualizing multiple machines), stick to 16 GB (2x8).

The PSU is massive overkill. Look for something gold-rated in the 500 Watt range.

That SSD is at least a couple generations past current. Look to something current (e.g., Crucial MX300, Samsung 850). A NVMe/PCIe SSD is a consideration, but in real-life use you'd be hard-pressed to perceive any difference over a SATA unit to justify the cost.

Unless you're planning to overclock liquid cooling is unnecessary. Look to a good (not OMG huge) tower cooler, such has a Noctua or Thermalright.

Don't do SLI. At 1080p the GTX1070 is more than plenty. If you plan to upgrade the display later then instead of SLI you should pick up an appropriate single GPU for it (e.g., GTX1080, the rumored GTX1080ti, whatever AMD might have coming).
 
Not sure why you're bothering. Three years isn't near the leap in performance that it used to be. If you're on Sandy Bridge or better I'd reconsider, maybe just upgrading the GPU and/or SSD to up the performance. Very few games are CPU-bound there days.

That said, my thoughts on what you've listed:

Why are you mixing an i7-6700k and a Z270 mainboard? Get the i7-7700k instead.

32 GB RAM is overkill for a gaming machine. Unless you're doing something else that merits installing that much memory (e.g., Photoshop, video editing, virtualizing multiple machines), stick to 16 GB (2x8).

The PSU is massive overkill. Look for something gold-rated in the 500 Watt range.

That SSD is at least a couple generations past current. Look to something current (e.g., Crucial MX300, Samsung 850). A NVMe/PCIe SSD is a consideration, but in real-life use you'd be hard-pressed to perceive any difference over a SATA unit to justify the cost.

Unless you're planning to overclock liquid cooling is unnecessary. Look to a good (not OMG huge) tower cooler, such has a Noctua or Thermalright.

Don't do SLI. At 1080p the GTX1070 is more than plenty. If you plan to upgrade the display later then instead of SLI you should pick up an appropriate single GPU for it (e.g., GTX1080, the rumored GTX1080ti, whatever AMD might have coming).

Firstly, thank you for the response. I have to get a new mobo for current gen PCU's. I'm currently running a i5 2500k and a 770gtx. Thank you for the advise on the SSD also, I know almost nothing about SSD tech. With that being said I will go with Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor and the 650 psu. Is this more along the lines of current for SSD's? I also think ill go with the 1080gtx. It will put me a little over what I had planned to spend but I have wiggle room.

Thanks again for the advise, its been fun catching up on this stuff.
 
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I have to say this right now: AMD's Ryzen processors and AM4 motherboards will be in stock within the next few days. Depending on how well Ryzen performs in benchmarks, we may recommend a different build for you by this time next week.

If you insist on staying with Intel, you can save some money by going with a different set of parts:

$240 - Intel Core i5-7600K quad-core processor
$115 - MSI Z270-A PRO
$105 - G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 2x8GB DDR4 2800 dual-channel kit

The i5-7600K isn't as fast as the i7-7700K (3.8GHz versus 4.2GHz), but in multiple gaming benchmarks using a separate video card, the i7-7700K doesn't offer a huge performance boost over the i5-7600K. You can easily save around $100 with the processor swap. If you want to save more money, you can swap the processor for the non-K i5-7500. (A K processor -- the i5-7600K and the i7-7700K -- means that it can be overclocked with a Z270 motherboard.) But the i5-7500 runs at 3.5GHz, which wouldn't even provide a noticeable performance boost over the i5-2500K at stock speeds. (I say "noticeable" with the obvious caveat that your video card generates a much greater impact in gaming performance than faster processor speeds.)

If you aren't serious about overclocking, you can grab "cheaper" parts that won't impact any framerates. The Z270-A PRO that I chose isn't as feature-packed as your Z270 GAMING M7, but like your board, it has four RAM slots, six SATA ports, and a rear M.2 slot for SSDs. The Z270-A PRO isn't "SLI-ready" -- the second PCI-E x16 slot runs at x4 speeds -- but you don't need SLI with modern video cards. As for the RAM, I simply chose a cheaper set... yes, one, as you don't need more than 16GB for a gaming rig.

For the SSD, I recommend the 500GB Samsung 850 EVO. As for the CPU cooler, I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. These parts are what we usually recommend for builds similar to yours.

Which games are you playing? Are you going to buy a larger resolution monitor within the next year?

I ask because I don't believe that you need a GTX 1080 for a 1080p resolution. You would be just fine with the GTX 1070.

You don't need an 850-watt monster for today's video cards. You would be just fine with a 650-watt power supply like the Seasonic SSR-650RM. If you're going to "splurge" on a power supply, spend a little extra for modular cables.

I almost forgot about the optical drive. Most would say that it's unnecessary these days, but you can find a decent drive for under $20 (or an external drive for a bit extra).
 
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Why not like this, already SLI with 1070:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Jtk8m8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Jtk8m8/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($399.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 51.2 CFM CPU Cooler ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($214.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.01 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($364.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($364.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman Z3 Plus ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($48.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1827.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-04 04:23 EST-0500
 
Why not like this, already SLI with 1070:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Jtk8m8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Jtk8m8/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($399.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 51.2 CFM CPU Cooler ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($214.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.01 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($364.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($364.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman Z3 Plus ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($48.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1827.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-04 04:23 EST-0500
Your build ignores what BlueLineSwinger and I said earlier, that Alludes, the OP, doesn't need an SLI setup or 32GB of RAM for his gaming build. Additionally, Ryzen's strength (based on the majority of the launch-day reviews that I've read) isn't with gaming, so the OP would be just fine with a (comparatively cheaper) i5-7600K, even though he doesn't plan on overclocking the processor.

I personally have no issue with your recommendation of the Samsung 960 EVO as the primary SSD, but the OP could use the 850 EVO I recommended earlier as a cost-cutting alternative (especially if he wants to stay as far below his budget as possible). However, many people have a negative perception of the Seagate 3TB HDD (mainly from the Backblaze blog post about HDD failure rates), so I wouldn't recommend that particular drive.

Switching gears, I totally forgot about the OS recommendation. IMO, go with Windows 10 Pro. Win10 Pro enables more security and privacy-based settings you can adjust than "regular" Windows 10.
 
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