Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

zoob said:
Has anybody with a 2B measured backlight PWM frequency when overclocked and not at maximum brightness? The 150 Hz PWM on my 2F (60Hz) really bugs out my eyes.
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My 2D uses 180Hz. Have you measured yours as 150Hz?

Overclocking should not change the backlight frequency.
 
Just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P. Ordered on last Friday (20th July). Got it on today (26 July). Requested to use EMS try to avoid some import tax. But end up got tax of around USD46. Not bad
Seller is red-cap. The monitor is great. Only 1 small suck pixel at the very top right corner. Only visible in Black screen. The Pivot stand is a bit bend but it does not affect the pivot function. I can still get perfect horizontal.

Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOV..._Monitors&hash=item33734125e7#ht_13891wt_1376

Below are some of the picture I took. Enjoy!

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...yeah, I'd probably return if I paid the premium for that stand and it showed up like that. Glad you're enjoying your new monitor, though. :)
 
So apparently the 30 inch monitors might be coming down in price since greensum has a sub $700 30 inch.
 
Mr.Pixel said:
My 2D uses 180Hz. Have you measured yours as 150Hz?

Overclocking should not change the backlight frequency.
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With my 2F I see six lines testing with shutter speed of 1/25. At 100% brightness it is a steady blur.

Various ASUS monitors increase the backlight PWM frequency when running at higher refresh rates, so I was curious as to whether or not it's part of a smart design, or just a dumb design that can be tricked to work at a higher speed.

There are so many 2B's out there that I'm surprised no one has done this test. :(

I have a 120hz edition on order, so I guess I'll be able to do my own test very soon.
 
Loving my new Catleap! Perfect pixel Q270 from Bigclothcraft arrived in 2 days. No dead pixels, very minimal bleeding that is not visible at 60% or less brightness. All in all very happy with this purchase. Whats better is that my fears of my GTX 680 struggling at this resolution are gone because everything plays just fine!
 
My 2B has some sort of flicker, but it's a soft pulsating flicker like CCFL, not the instant on/off flicker that many LED monitors have.

This is around 30-35% brightness at 1/25 shutter speed with good focus:
 
Just wanted everyone to know that I purchased a ACHIEVA Shimian QH270-Lite on eBay from seller red-cap last Sunday. It showed up Wednesday without any damage and does not have a single dead pixel. No light bleed in the corners and so far the lighting is even throughout the screen. I can boot my computer with it, but I have a newer setup. It does have a cooler color temperature than my Dell 3008 setting next to it, but I'm still working on adjusting it with my x-rite. Out of the box the screen is extremely bright which you can adjust down.
 
ToastyX said:
My 2B has some sort of flicker, but it's a soft pulsating flicker like CCFL, not the instant on/off flicker that many LED monitors have.

This is around 30-35% brightness at 1/25 shutter speed with good focus:
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Word on the street says your the guy to talk to when it comes to monitors. Do you know which in your opinion is the best icc or icm color profile for the Q270 catleap? I have all the ones from overclock.net already (the d65, catleap native, monitor 4-23-12, the pantone huey one some guy did) are all of these good or do you have something better and if so can you share it with me? Thanks :)
 
carch said:
Just wanted everyone to know that I purchased a ACHIEVA Shimian QH270-Lite on eBay from seller red-cap last Sunday. It showed up Wednesday without any damage and does not have a single dead pixel. No light bleed in the corners and so far the lighting is even throughout the screen. I can boot my computer with it, but I have a newer setup. It does have a cooler color temperature than my Dell 3008 setting next to it, but I'm still working on adjusting it with my x-rite. Out of the box the screen is extremely bright which you can adjust down.
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Did you get the edge to edge glass or the bezel of the glass? I'm hoping the edge to edge glass is still production.
 
chronicfx said:
Word on the street says your the guy to talk to when it comes to monitors. Do you know which in your opinion is the best icc or icm color profile for the Q270 catleap? I have all the ones from overclock.net already (the d65, catleap native, monitor 4-23-12, the pantone huey one some guy did) are all of these good or do you have something better and if so can you share it with me? Thanks :)
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Check this site out: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm

I'm using the "apple led cinema 24" on my Achieva Shimian Q270 which looks the best for me.
 
The best color profile is one you make yourself. Each individual panel is different, and several different panel revisions have been used in these monitors, so using other color profiles might not produce good results and could make things worse. The d65 and native profiles on overclock.net are the ones I made for my 2B Catleap. Supposedly the non-2B monitors have a blue tint, which makes my profiles useless for them.
 
I am tempted to believe that most ppl assume that a profile made for a panel will be ok for everyone else using that panel. However this is not true, because panels can have different color tints, one is too blue, other too green or maybe too red. A profile will not look properly on your monitor unless you got the same "problems" with your panel as the one that posted the profile, which is obviously not likely to happen. My general advice is to test out all the profiles from the list, maybe you will get one that is at least close to what you got. However if you try only the profile that is posted for your panel, you have technically no chance to have it good.

My second advice is to either borrow/buy a hardware calibrator, or simply get a good software calibrator.

The 2 pieces of software that I found the most accurate to use to calibrate my screen are:
- LutManager : this one I use for choosing what profiles I want, as currently my windows 7 64 bit profile management is bugged(after I tried like 100 profiles..).
- CLTest: This software is the calibrator itself, and the most awesome part of it is that I can calibrate my screen in very small steps, which can be extremely accurate if done correctly and with patience.

The main reason that I use both pieces of software though is that for some reason even tho I love cltest application I can't manage to save the profile with it so I am using a workaround: I calibrate screen with CLTest, and while the profile "stays" applied I start LutManager and I select "Reload from Device". Using this trick I manage to obtain in LUTManager the calibration that I have done with CLTest. Once I have it there I save it as a "LUT" file, and I select from the software that I want it to load on every windows startup.

This way I was able to get a very accurate calibration, which was very close to the one obtained with the hardware calibrator when I got my hands on.

And honestly, now that I saw how a calibration curves can vary from panel to panel, I strongly advice towards manual calibration or find a hardware calibration.
 
That concept is totally understood. I don't have it in my budget for a calibration device that I know you guys are using. Being a chemist I know that these L-A-B hunter like calibrated devices will come closer to true colors than my own eyes will (at least my own). Thanks for sharing those profiles with the community it is really helpful to those of us who can't justify dropping the extra couple hundred for a nice color calibrator. I know each panel revision will have its own unique twist on how the colors are displayed and in the end it will be up to my eyes to decide which profile I like best. All I was asking was "for more profiles to choose from". If I had a list of a 100 profiles for catleaps I would put a nice picture up and scroll through them until my eyes fell in love with one. But I only have 4 choices right now.
 
chronicfx said:
That concept is totally understood. I don't have it in my budget for a calibration device that I know you guys are using. Being a chemist I know that these L-A-B hunter like calibrated devices will come closer to true colors than my own eyes will (at least my own). Thanks for sharing those profiles with the community it is really helpful to those of us who can't justify dropping the extra couple hundred for a nice color calibrator. I know each panel revision will have its own unique twist on how the colors are displayed and in the end it will be up to my eyes to decide which profile I like best. All I was asking was "for more profiles to choose from". If I had a list of a 100 profiles for catleaps I would put a nice picture up and scroll through them until my eyes fell in love with one. But I only have 4 choices right now.
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As I said in my post, you can try profiles from other monitor models, just try and see which ones works.
 
slamming my head on the table. brought from green-sum on tuesday. for my crossover 27 led-p since it seem like they were pretty good sellers for the korean monitor. now it looks like i should of just paid the extra 20 for the AW one.
 
mistax said:
slamming my head on the table. brought from green-sum on tuesday. for my crossover 27 led-p since it seem like they were pretty good sellers for the korean monitor. now it looks like i should of just paid the extra 20 for the AW one.
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AW?
 
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still super pleased with my Croissover..

playing The Secret World, native 1440p res, GTX580, medium quality DX11.. FPS around 36-40
 
can anyone give some tips on using this with dispcalGUI - this thing's kind of over my head and I'm pushing a 1000 image deadline
 
Has anyone had luck cleaning these things? I bought some solution but it leaves a slight haze on top. Looking for suggestions to get them nice and shiny again :) I searched the thread for clean and cleaning, and didn't see an answer.
 
daveop said:
Has anyone had luck cleaning these things? I bought some solution but it leaves a slight haze on top. Looking for suggestions to get them nice and shiny again :) I searched the thread for clean and cleaning, and didn't see an answer.
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I would think a 50/50 solution of Distilled Water and Rubbing Alchohol with a micro fiber cloth should work.

How is the backlight bleed on these? I'm guess pretty spotty with the LED backlighting and all.
 
Anyone with the tempered glass model, the QH270-IPSB, regretting getting the tempered glass model?
But haven't used a non anti-glare screen since my CRT days.
 
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Gatecrasher3 said:
Anyone with the tempered glass model, the QH270-IPSB, regretting getting the tempered glass model?
But haven't used a non anti-glare screen since my CRT days.
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Yep! Got one. I just took of the tempered glass and clean out the dusts and debris. I think the edge to edge glass looks really good.
 
hi , I am also interested in this monitor and I do not really know if I should buy the 270 or the 271.
I am even wondering if the 271 its an upgraded version of the 270


Some one can give more explanation??
 
fuck, planned on going 3 tempered glass shimians, got 1 and now its been replaced with this bevel version.
 
If anyone is wondering about experiences with different sellers, I ordered a Shimian Lite from Redcap on Friday morning, had it Monday morning. He included a power brick that was 110-240V, but I had to get the generic cord to plug into the US style outlet. It's got no dead pixels and no backlight bleed. Couldn't be happier with how the whole transaction went.
 
I've now owned my Crossover P monitor for about a month with daily use of 3-4 hours during the evenings and it's still running like a champ. The power brick is fine as well and does not get overly hot, just warm like my xbox360 powerbrick. No regrets here. I will update in another month and every month!
 
Morning,

I'm trying to sort out the various mointor options on the green-sum eBay site, but I'm confused. Can someone help direct me to the one for me?

Yamakasi Q270 LED SE - Not sure what the "SE" stands for
Yamakasi Q270 LED Multi - Audio in / out (I don't really care about audio - I have a dedicated speaker system)
Yamakasi Q270 LED SE Perfect Pixel (A pixel guarantee - I'd be willing to do this to avoid the hassle of a return....)
Yamakasi Q270 LED SE Tempered Glass - A different glass / anti-glare coating? Good? Bad?
Yamakasi Q270 LED - Base model I assume...

Any thoughts would be great...
 
Katabatic[H];1038983737 said:
Morning,

I'm trying to sort out the various mointor options on the green-sum eBay site, but I'm confused. Can someone help direct me to the one for me?

Yamakasi Q270 LED SE - Not sure what the "SE" stands for
Yamakasi Q270 LED Multi - Audio in / out (I don't really care about audio - I have a dedicated speaker system)
Yamakasi Q270 LED SE Perfect Pixel (A pixel guarantee - I'd be willing to do this to avoid the hassle of a return....)
Yamakasi Q270 LED SE Tempered Glass - A different glass / anti-glare coating? Good? Bad?
Yamakasi Q270 LED - Base model I assume...

Any thoughts would be great...
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Multi has HDMI DVI and VGA is the most expensive

SE is the "no frills" no speaker no extra inputs just DVI though if you look carefully at the listing some will come with a VGA port as well it will show in the picture about halfway down the specs.

Regular Q270 has speakers and only a DVI input.

Tempered glass models will say tempered glass so read carefully before bidding. If you like the tempered glass than go for it. No idea about glare coatings, I don't own one.

Perfect pixel has no dead pixels, they shipped mine (Q270) before I even blinked so I am hoping they check them prior to these purchases and have them put aside as pixel perfect before hand and just ship them from that pile. Just for reference mine was pixel perfect when I recieved it.

Sorry I can't answer every question but hopefully I was somewhat helpful. enjoy the monitor, I am enjoying mine. Right now I was just googling some hi-res tropical beach pictures to help choose color profiles. Picture is incredible coming from a TN panel.
 
Just random thoughts here...

We all know the panels are the same, but how is the quality of the PCB's between brands? Is one better than the other? I don't believe all the PCBs are the same, so it's left me wondering if one is better than the other and soforth.

Finally, has anyone noticed how warm the top of the crossover gets compared to the others? For example, my shimian is completely cold, while my crossover was quite warm to the touch. I presume this is just because of the thinner, metal bezel, which is pretty heat conductive... and if anything, should be better for the panel in the long term since the heat is being pulled away from the panel itself?
 
mikelanding said:
Just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P. Ordered on last Friday (20th July). Got it on today (26 July). Requested to use EMS try to avoid some import tax. But end up got tax of around USD46. Not bad
Seller is red-cap. The monitor is great. Only 1 small suck pixel at the very top right corner. Only visible in Black screen. The Pivot stand is a bit bend but it does not affect the pivot function. I can still get perfect horizontal.
Click to expand...
How do you know if you get hit with import tax (for US)? Is it requested by shipping courier upon delivery, or requested later in the mail? If it's based on what the seller fills out, which are the preferred sellers?
 
poohbie said:
How do you know if you get hit with import tax (for US)? Is it requested by shipping courier upon delivery, or requested later in the mail? If it's based on what the seller fills out, which are the preferred sellers?
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You would get charged by the delivery courier, but the US has a free trade agreement with South Korea so there's no import tax.
 
poohbie said:
How do you know if you get hit with import tax (for US)? Is it requested by shipping courier upon delivery, or requested later in the mail? If it's based on what the seller fills out, which are the preferred sellers?
Click to expand...

For my case, I had to pay the Tax to my local Post Office.

If U at US, should be no tax due to Trade agreement with Korea as mentioned by many
 
Just got my monitor (Crossover 27Q from accessorieswhole). Somehow in my mind I though I was ordering the pivot'able version, but I was not. That's fine, wasn't going to pivot, but height-adjustment would have been nice.

In the first hour here, but I don't see anything wrong with the panel, and I'm not going to go around looking either.

Only problem now is how to arrange everything so that I can use both monitors and get a sane placement for my speakers and computer, but that's a pretty sweet problem to have.
 
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